G2 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 19, 1S83. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books ( T. F. B .).— Particulars concerning tlie culture of the Rose are 
given in “ Florists’ Flowers for the Many,” published at this office, price 
Ad. ; post free, A\d. This is the cheapest work we know upon the subject. 
(De Smet and H. C.). —We do not know any work giving coloured plates of 
carpet beds. Mr. Graham’s “ Guide to Hampton Court ” gives numerous 
diagrams that would be useful to you. It can be obtained from Mr. Graham, 
Superintendent, Hampton Court Gardens, and we think the price is about Is. 
Grapes Spotted (Subscribe7 -).— The berry sent appear to have been 
punctured by some insect, causing slight exudation of the sap. 
Names of Peas (C. B.). — The specimen labelled No. 2 is the true 
William I., the other resembles Sangster’s No. 1. 
Caterpillars on Roses ( E. C. 0.). —The best plan is to frequently examine 
the trees, removing and destroying all the caterpillars that can be seen. 
Roses Affected by the Orange Fungus (F. J. I ).).—Your Roses are 
attacked by this injurious fungus, and the reply to “A Young Beginner” 
above will indicate what had better be done. 
Tragopogon porrifolius (Tlenden ).—The plant can be found in many 
parts of Great Britain, chiefly in damp positions, and usually flowers about 
May. We cannot tell you where you can purchase plants in flower now. 
Vines and Azaleas Injured (IF. J .).—There is no doubt but that the 
fumigation was the cause of the injury, and there is no remedy except 
removing the foliage and shoots that are past recovery and wait for 
fresh growth. 
Hose-in-Hose Gloxinia (17. S .).—We have seen similar varieties to that 
of which you sent a specimen, but are not aware that there is any further 
name than that given above. In point of beauty it is inferior to the 
ordinary single ” forms, though it is interesting as a curiosity. 
Tropseolum Flowers (R. (j- S.). —The flowers were much faded through 
being closely packed in cotton wool, but as far as we can judge they are of a 
deep rich colour and neat in form, and if free and of good habit is doubtless 
a useful variety. 
Currant Leaves Falling (./.).—Probably the bushes have been suffering 
from drought, which the recent rains would no doubt assist materially in 
remedying. If the bushes are old and weak a mulching of manure or a good 
supply of liquid manure would prove beneficial. 
New Pelargoniums (J. P.). —The flowers you sent were rather shattered, 
but the pink variety appears to be very clear in colour, and the scarlet bright, 
but there are many others equally as good, though of course we cannot 
judge respecting the habit and floriferousness of the plants from single 
trusses. 
Tomato Leaves Curling (Id. D'Olier ).—The most probable cause of the 
leav^ s curling is too dry an atmosphere and an insufficient supply of water 
at*■'_ (roots, but the old leaves usually curl more or less, and some plants 
are more given to it, as you note, than others. Mulch with short manure, 
supply water abundantly at the roots, and keep the house a little closer. 
Vines Infested with Thrips (IF. S.). —There is no question about the 
insects on the Vine leaves being thrips. Fumigate the house on two or 
three consecutive evenings and repeat in the course of a week. Probably 
the insects have passeu from the Ferns to the Vines. 
Marechal Niel Rose Leaves Diseased (A Young Beginner ).—The leaves 
appear to be attacked by orange fungus, to destroy which dissolve 2 ozs. 
of blue vitriol in hot water, and then add 3 gallons of cold water, and with 
this sponge the leaves or syringe the tree ; and as the fungus is chiefly on 
the under side of the leaves care should be taken to wet them there with the 
solution. Supply liquid manure, and if planted out mulch with partially 
decayed manure. Soft soap at the rate of 4 ozs. to the gallon is also good 
against the parasite, but not nearly so effectual as the vitriol water. 
Nectarines Diseased (J. II .).—In the absence of information as to the 
condition of the tree and the soil of the border in which it is growing we 
have some difficulty in arriving at a correct solution of the cause of the 
disease which has attacked your fruit. The probability is that it arises from 
an impaired constitution of the tree, and we are led to this supposition 
because of the small size of the fruit. This want of vigour may have been 
caused by successive attacks of red spider, which destroy the functions of the 
eaves. Perhaps you may have observed the leaves looking sickly, and the 
young wood after the leaves have fallen destitute both of fruit and leaf buds ; 
if so the trees have suffered from this pest. Has the house received suffi¬ 
cient air ? These disease spots are often produced by inattention to this. 
Look to the border and see that the drainage is perfect, and the soil open and 
porous, with a proper admixture of calcareous matter. 
Strawberries Eaten by Slugs (J. P., Dublin). —We do not know what yon 
can now apply to prevent the fruit being eaten by the slugs ; but you may 
raise the fruit above the ground or mulching material by some forked sticks 
thrust into the ground, and place the trusses so that they rest in the fork of 
the sticks. This will save the majority of the fruit. Securing the trusses of 
fruit to small stakes will answer nearly as well, but is more tedious. We 
use crinolines formed of galvanised wire, which answer perfectly, not a fruit 
so far as we have observed being eaten by slugs. 
Water crass in Shallow Boxes not Succeeding (IF. J. N.). —There must 
not be any shade but full exposure to the light, an open situation, yet 
sheltered from cold winds, so as to accelerate the supply in spring. We 
cannot account for the plants dying in winter, as they are perfectly hardy. 
Any good loam will suit Watercress well, and if manure of any kind be 
added it should be cowdung, but it is best to put in the plants— i.e., rooted 
cuttings, in good soil and afterwards dress with cowdung. The water over 
the soil should not be deeper than 3 or 4 inches at most. Straw shutters or 
a good thickness of mats supported by a framework of lathes so as to just 
keep them clear of the plants is sufficient protection in winter, and should- 
only be used in severe weather, continuing the protection over the plants 
during the prevalence of frost and upon a thaw until the plants are thoroughly 
thawed. We have grown Watercress at 500 feet above sea level. 
Vines on the Long-rod System (H. S.). —The Vines should have the 
eyes rubbed off so that the bearing shoots (not laterals) are 15 to 18 inches 
distance apart. This is essential to admit light and air to the bearing shoots 
to insure the proper development and finishing of the crop. The most 
probable cause of the shoots having in some cases more vigour than others 
is their taking the lead and exhausting the stored-up sap in the rod, and 
though the three most vigorous canes have been detached, the remaining 
ones having no such supplies to draw upon are comparatively stationary. 
Another reason is that the flow of sap is most abundant at the upper part of 
the cane or rod, and the shoots are consequently most vigorous. The Grapes 
are scalded, which is due to the sun or heat acting on the berries whilst 
covered with moisture. When Grapes begin colouring they should have- 
a little ventilation constantly. 
Packing Plants for Tasmania (II 1. G.). —Wardian cases are the best for 
packing plants in to travel a long distance, especially when they are choice 
or delicate. They can be purchased of various sizes of some nurserymen and 
dealers in horticultural sundries, the prices differing considerably according 
to the size and finish. The plants should be thoroughly watered before 
being packed, but the superfluous water must be allowed to drain off previous 
to placing them in the case. They should be stood upright and packed very 
closely and securely with moss and hay, afterwards standing the cases in 
the open for a time before screwing the tops on. Treated carefully in this 
way plants will travel a long distance safely without receiving any attention 
during the voyage. 
Useful and Injurious Insects (A. P. Cox , Waver tree). —Your No. 1 is 
certainly the grub or larva of that very valuable but insufficiently appre¬ 
ciated species of beetle, the two-spotted ladybird, Coccinella bipunctata. 
No. 2 is the caterpillar of a moth called the buff ermine (Arctia lubricipeda). 
The perfect insect appears in June about gardens and fields, and lays its 
eggs upon a great variety of plants. More commonly the caterpillars occur 
from July to September upon those of low growth, but they are sometimes 
found upon shrubs and trees. They rarely do any appreciable amount of 
injury, as it is easy to discover and remove them, since they feed con¬ 
spicuously. 
Perennials from Seed (Willesden). —Seeds of most of those previously 
named can be obtained from the chief firms, and the following can also b& 
obtained in the same way, enabling you to raise a good variety of plants 
for the spring :—Anchusa italica, Aquilegia coerulea and chrysantha, Aubri- 
etia deltoidea and grseca, Calandrinia umbellata, Campanula carpatica and 
turbinata, Convolvulus mauritanicus, Delphinium nudicaule and hybridnm r 
Gentiana acaulis, Geum atro-sanguineum, Gnaphalium Leontopodium (Edel¬ 
weiss), Lupinus polyphyllus, Myosotis dissitiflora, GUnothera macrocarpa 
and taraxacifolia, Helianthemums, Sedum cceruleum, and Veronica spicata. 
If you desire to do so, spores of the hardy Ferns can also be obtained and 
raised with the others. 
Uses of Water Lilies (J. II.). —The leaves and stems of these plants and 
their relatives are generally astringent and bitter, the roots possessing these 
qualities very strongly developed. The rootstocks of Nymphsea alba, the 
common white Water Lily, contain a quantity of starch and mucilage, with, 
tannin and a narcotic principle that is removed by washing, the roots being 
then used as food in some countries, particularly in Sweden. We do not, 
however, think the petals would be very beneficial for the purpose you 
name. The flowers of the yellow Water Lily, Nymphsea lutea, are said to 
possess a narcotic property, and in some parts of England they are called 
Brandy Bottles, from the resemblance of their odour to brandy. In Turkey 
a cooling drink is prepared from them. 
Melons not Setting (IF., Herts). —Plants growing in frames placed on 
manure are not unfrequently very vigorous from the roots of the Melons- 
passing through the soil into the rich compost below, and over-luxuriance is 
not favourable to the setting of the fruit. The only course we can recom¬ 
mend you to pursue is to remove some of the strong growths, so that 
those remaining are so thinly disposed that the sun can shine on every leaf. 
Tread the soil very firmly, being very careful not to injure the foliage, and 
do not give any water for some days, or only just sufficient to prevent the 
foliage flagging. If the ends of the main shoots are cut off when they 
reach nearly to the sides of the frame, the axillary growths following will 
produce pistillate flowers, to which pollen should be applied from the stami- 
nate an hour after the frame has been opened in the morning. The fruit¬ 
bearing laterals should be pinched at one leaf beyond the flower immediately 
the latter is seen, and before it expands. 
Ginger-beer Plant (E, M. C .).—The fungus you have observed is pro- 
