82 
JOURNAL OF HORTIOUL1URE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 26, 1883. 
be examined and picked at once when the stalk parts readily from the 
branch as the fruit is lifted. Care in this matter affords a nice succes¬ 
sion of several dishes of fruit from a cordon, it not being uncommon for 
the last dish from the bottom spurs to be a fortnight later than the first 
from the top. 
Strawberries. — Planting. —Due care must be given to the selection 
of suitable positions for the new beds—a sunny gently sloping bank for 
the early sorts, an airy open part of a garden square for the intermediate 
or main crop, and a north border for the late ones. To render the supply 
of fruit unbroken, plant a few rows of an intermediate sort in a warm 
place near the early beds, and some of the late sorts fully exposed to the 
sun, so as to accelerate the ripening and insure a supply of each sort 
before that which it follows is exhausted. For treatment of the soil and 
distances for planting see our note published a fortnight ago. 
Varieties. —In purchasing plants for a new garden do not confine 
yourself to, say, three sorts—early, intermediate, and late, but rather try 
several of proved merit, and watch closely how they answer, so as to 
ascertain which are best suited for your particular soil. If we were 
choosing for ourselves we would take Keen’s Seedling, Sir Joseph 
Paxton, James Veitch, and Heffine Gloede for our main successional 
crops, with Black Prince for very early fruit, Dr. Hogg for special 
treats, and Cockscomb for some sensational fruit. To these excellent 
sorts add for trial Vicomtesse de Thury, President, Lucas, Sir Charles 
Napier, Samuel Bradley, and Loxford Hall Seedling. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Figs.— Second Crop on Early-forced Trees. —Trees from which the 
first crop were gathered in May will now be ripening their second 
crops, and will need to have free ventilation and full exposure to sun 
and air. If the weather be dull and wet a little artificial heat will be 
necessary to insure a circulation of air—in fact, a circulation of rather 
dry warm air is essential to the perfect ripening of the fruit. If the 
trees are in pots the surface must be mulched and well supplied with 
water, as syringing to keep down red spider is practically useless if 
the soil is allowed to become dry. Fig trees in pots should be plunged 
to the rim, and surface roots encouraged by nlacing turf grass side 
downwards round the rim and top of the pots, interspersing it with 
some well-decayed manure and old mortar rubbish, for lime is impera¬ 
tive in the cultivation of the Fig. 
Trees in Borders. —Trees planted out are less liable to suffer from 
sudden checks than trees in pots, yet they must be kept well mulched 
and be copiously watered to insure full crops of fine fruits. Trees that 
are planted against the walls, as also those planted in front and trained 
to trellises beneath the roof, should have turves placed at the collar, 
and be supplied daily with liquid manure. 
Late Houses. —Attend regularly to stopping, thinning, and tying 
out in late houses, being careful not to overcrowd, as it is important 
that advancing crops have the full benefit of sun and light, and the 
border must be well mulched with manure. Syringe forcibly twice a 
day, and close the house with sun heat at 80° to 85°. 
Very Early Houses. —If the weather be bright and hot the moveable 
lights may be drawn off, and when the second crop is gathered the trees 
may be allowed to gradually rest, only giving sufficient water to keep 
them clean and healthy. If there be any doubt as to the ripeness of the 
wood the lights should be continued over the trees until this is thoroughly 
effected, which is best done by a free circulation of air, and moderate 
moisture only both at the roots and in the atmosphere. If the trees are 
infested with scale it must be removed by washing the trees with an 
insecticide applied with a brush or sponge. 
Trees in Pots for Early Forcing. —Young trees that have been grown 
on in a warm house to induce them to ripen early may, when the growth 
is completed and the wood become firm, be placed outdoors in a warm 
place, as that in front of a south wall, where they will ripen off and go to 
rest. For growing under glass there are no Figs that equal the Brown 
Turkey, yet Negro Largo is very fine, and equally eligible, especially for 
pots. 
Melons. — Watering. —Plantshaving their roots in a comparatively 
small space, and are now swelling off their crops, should have copious 
supplies of weak liquid manure two or three times a week, and if the 
plants are in pits or frames it must be done without wetting the foliage 
or fruit more than can be helped. Be careful not to water too near the 
stem of the plants, as this is liable to cause canker. Should this appear 
rub quicklime well into the affected parts. Directly after applying 
liquid manure to plants in frames sprinkle over the foliage with clean 
water through a rose watering pot. 
Training.— Train the growths regularly over the allotted space, not 
stopping the leading shoots until they have grown two-thirds of the 
limit, and rub off every alternate lateral when quite young, which is 
essential to prevent overcrowding, and do not have the main shoots closer 
than 18 inches. Stop one joint beyond the fruit at the time of im¬ 
pregnation, which should be daily attended to as the blossoms expand, 
and keep subsequent growths closely stopped to one joint, and thin out 
where necessary so as to insure the free access of light and air to the 
principal foliage. 
Fruit Ripening.— Where Melons are ripening increase the ventilation 
with a gradual decrease of atmospheric moisture, and water only at the 
roots to prevent flagging. Should the weather prove dull a little fire 
heat will be necessary to insure the perfect ripening of the fruit. 
Succession Crops. —In the case of plants that have set their fruit too 
thickly thin them out to three for weakly plants, four for the moderately 
vigorous, and five or six for the luxuriant plants, which should be done 
as soon as it can be ascertained which fruit takes the lead in swelling, 
making selection of the best shaped fruits, distributing them as evenly 
over the plant as possible. Fruit on trellises will need to have supports 
before becoming very heavy, whilst those in frames or pits should have 
some pieces of slates placed under them in a slanting direction to keep 
them clear of the soil. 
Atmospheric Moisture. — Damp the houses in which Melons arc¬ 
swelling off their fruit twice a day during bright weather, closing early 
in the afternoon at from 3 to 4 P.M., according to the weather, and at 
the same time syringe the plants overhead moderately, watering those 
in pits or frames through a fine-rose watering pot. 
Late Crops. —Where fruit is required late another planting may now 
be made, but it must be in a light structure, where there is command of 
both bottom and top heat by means of hot-water pipes. 
Cucumbers.— Stopping and Thinning. —In order to insure con¬ 
tinuity of bearing it is necessary that stopping and thinning be attended 
to frequently, otherwise the plants soon become a thicket of wood, which 
wastes the energies of the plants and renders them unfruitful, as much 
of it must necessarily be cut away, and some time must elapse before 
they are again in a fruitful condition. Plants judiciously stopped, the 
old wood where practicable cut out, and young growth trained in. its 
place, can be kept continuously bearing over a very lengthened period, 
it being a great mistake to allow the foliage to become too crowded, and 
equally disastrous is overbearing. It is also essential to encourage 
surface roots by top-dressing with good loam and thoroughly decayed 
manure, along with occasional copious supplies of liquid manure, alter¬ 
nating with water, which at this season will be required two ox three 
times a week, or it may be daily if the plants are in pots or in very 
limited borders. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Allamandas. —These should now be growing vigorously, also flowering 
profusely, and liberal supplies of water and stimulants will be needed 
almost daily. Plants trained under the roof of stoves will require con¬ 
siderable attention in keeping the shoots tied as they extend, or they 
soon reach the glass and become injured. Side shoots will also be freely 
produced, and these must be freely thinned out or the roof will become 
too crowded and injure the plants growing beneath. To maintain an 
even and regular supply of flowers some of these side shoots must be 
judiciously selected and tied along the trellis in order to produce flowers? 
near the base of the plants. This is easily accomplished by constantly 
thinning-out and laying in fresh shoots. Do not overshade these plants, 
or the growths, instead of being short and flowering freely, will run to 
a great length before flowers are produced. A little shade only is bene¬ 
ficial for a few hours during the hottest part of the day. Plants in pots 
trained upon trellises may be gradually hardened and used for the 
decoration of the conservatory for a time. While in this position water¬ 
ing must be carefully performed, or the plants will soon discontinue 
flowering and become unhealthy. 
Stephanotis floribunda. —Plants that flowered early and have made 
a good vigorous growth in a moist rather close atmosphere will need 
attention in order to bring the growth made to a thoroughly ripened 
condition, or else the next season’s supply of flowers will be limited. If 
shade has been employed gradually reduce it until the plants bear full 
light and sunshine ; also maintain a drier atmosphere and give more air, 
which is essential to ripen the wood sufficiently to produce flowers in 
abundance. If the shoots trained to wires or small cord are crowded 
thin them out, or, better still, dispose them evenly and thinly over the 
roof, so that every possible chance will be given for the proper matura¬ 
tion of the wood. Nothing is gained by crowding plants of this descrip¬ 
tion ; but, on the contrary, more flowers will be produced from the same 
space where the roof is moderately covered with good wood than would- 
be the case from a densely crowded plant covering double the space. 
Liberal feeding should be resorted to if the plants are in any way con¬ 
fined at their roots, but care must be taken that they are not saturated, 
or injury will soon result. 
Clerodendron Balfourianum. —The remarks given above apply with 
equal force to this plant—in fact, those that have flowered and are 
making or near the completion of their growth. Thorough ripened 
wood is the secret of success, and this accomplished under the influence 
of light, air, and a drier atmosphere. If prematurely ripened, as is 
too often the case, by allowing the plants to become dust dry, they 
suffer in consequence. Plants ripened under such adverse conditions 
either fail to start into growth when wanted, the wood dies back, or 
the plant flowers imperfectly. 
All plants in active growth must have every encouragement to 
ripen their wood as early as possible, especially those required for 
early forcing. Those still in flower should afterwards be pushed forward 
rapidly, as it is impossible to ripen the wood well when the days are 
short and the sun but little power. 
Achimenes. —Root another batch of cuttings in 4 or 5-inch pots, 
which will come in most useful for decoration. Feed those now flower¬ 
ing in the conservatory with weak stimulants every time watering i3 
needed, which will help them wonderfully and prolong their season of 
flowering. Plants produced from cuttings rooted early in the season, 
are still compact balls of flower, and are superior in every way to those 
grown without being topped from the dried tubers. This system ha* 
much to recommend it, and in future whether the plants are to be 
