84 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 26, 1883. 
W. Lovell & Son, Driffield, Yorkshire .—List of Strawberry Plants. 
L. Spiitb, Berlin .—List of Bulbs. 
E. H. Krelage it Son, Haarlem.— Wholesale Catalor/ue of Bulbous Plants. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon • 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions thi’ough the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Seedling Raspberry ( John Coombe). — Your seedling Raspberry is a 
very good one, large and prolific, but it does not surpass some other varieties 
already in cultivation, such as Carter’s Prolific and Northumberland Fill- 
basket. 
The Parsley-leaved Bramble (J. N.). —We think you will find all the 
information you require in the interesting article of “ W. K. W.” in another 
column of the present issue. If you need any further particulars we will 
endeavour to supply them if you state your requirements. We are very glad 
to hear from you. No one need apologise for seeking information. 
Dismissal of Gardener (Sussex). —The case you mention where one 
month’s notice is required for the dismissal of a gardener occupying a 
cottage on the premises refers to one in which a yearly hiring existed. In 
the case of a weekly hiring and weekly payment only a week’s notice is 
required. 
Garden Register (C. LI). —We have no work published under the above 
title, nor do we know exactly what you mean, or we might perhaps be able 
to assist you in procuring what you w T ant. 
Storing Bulbs (J. B. IF.).—Bulbs stored in such large quantities as your 
letter indicates cannot be considered safe, the Crocuses especially. Large 
dealers spread them 2 or 3 inches thick on shelves tier above tier, and even 
then find, it necessary to move them occasionally for keeping them in a 
sound state over the longest period. 
Echinocactus, Echinocereus, and Echinopsis ( Trilce ).—The most easily 
observed characters which will enable you to distinguish these genera is 
the position of the flowers, those in Echinocactus rising from the crown of 
the globular fleshy stem, while in the other two genera the flowers are 
produced from the side of the stem. Echinocereus is distinguished by the 
short flower tube as compared with Cereus, the first bearing at its summit 
the persistent remains of the flower, and the seeds are rough. In Echinopsis 
the flowers have a very long tube, covered with bristles or hairy scales. 
All have thick globular or rounded fleshy stems, and with the Melocactus 
are readily recognised at a glance as compared with the majority of allied 
plants. The genus Cotyledon has flowers with five sepals, a tubular five- 
cleft corolla, and ten stamens, while Crassula has all the parts in fives, 
sepals, petals, and stamens. Articles upon the subject you name will shortly 
appear in these pages. 
Ivy on Trees (Sussex). —There is no question but that Ivy is injurious 
to trees against which it grows, as is evidenced by the diminished vigour of 
the trees as compared with those that are not mantled with Ivy ; but there 
is no disputing the fact that when trees have been long and so much covered 
with it as to be very much enfeebled thereby, that the removal of the Ivy 
acts prejudiciously by exposing the long-protected bark to the direct influ¬ 
ence of the atmosphere. Ivy ought never to be allowed to grow on trees 
that are intended for profit, but should be cut or removed before it has made 
mush headway. Trees covered with Ivy in a young state will never make 
profitable timbe’ - , and aged trees are better felled when covered with it, 
unless it be desired to retain them as ornaments. 
Clematis Shoots Dying (.1. M .).—There is nothing on the leaves and 
stems sent indicative of disease. The growth is evidently very weak, as may 
be anticipated from the second growth, the first having been destroyed when 
0 or 8 feet long. The “ white place on the stems about 3 inches from the 
base ” is no doubt the cause of the mischief, and is, we think, caused by slugs 
eating off the bark, which prevents the flow of the sap, and causes the shoots 
to collapse for want of nutriment. Dust around the collar of the plant with 
quicklime, and search for the pests after dark with a lantern, particularly 
in moist weather. 
Zonal Pelargoniums not Thriving (C. A. L.). —IVe do not know that 
any kind oj cement is injurious to plants, but the floor is probably formed of 
concrete— i.e., asphalt, into which gas tar enters largely, and the effluvium 
given out during “hot sunny weather, and in winter when artificial heat” is 
employed, is highly injurious to plant life, especially plants that have hairs 
on the ieaves, such as Pelargoniums, Gloxinias, Achimenes, &c., and will 
cause the leaves and flowers of Fuchsias to drop. We should remove the- 
floor if there is tar in it, and replace it with stone, which is ceitainly quite 
as economical in your locality as cement. We have had houses with cement 
floors, and they have never caused any injury to the plants. What are the 
hot-water pipes coated with ? Is there anything in the painting of the wood¬ 
work calculated to give off offensive effluvia ? 
Tree Carnations—Lifting Roses (J. F.). —We have frequently grown- 
tree Carnations for two years and more, selecting healthy sturdy plants, 
shifting such as could be conveniently placed in larger pots, removing a- 
portion of the soil from the others, and adding fresh rich compost. During 
the summer they were plunged in ashes in the open air, and accorded 
generally the same treatment as Chrysanthemums as to syringing and 
watering. Many plants that have been much drawn under glass during the- 
winter are of little further use ; and as a rule young plants raised early from 
stout cuttings and grown generously through the summer, produce the finest 
blooms over the longest period. But everything depends on the skill of the- 
cultivator, and a person growing these Carnations for the first time would' 
not act prudently by throwing away all his old plants before he had young- 
plants thriving satisfactorily. You must not disturb the Tea Roses now, but 
take them up and pot them in the autumn. 
Soil for Fruit Trees (Idem). —Healthy and fruitful trees and excellent 
crops of Strawberries are grown in soil much inferior to that of which you- 
have sent us a sample. Assuming that water passes freely through it, and 
that there is not a stagnant subsoil, we fail to see that anything beyond 
ordinary farmyard manure is needed for growing Strawberries, and surface- 
dressings for fruit trees. A good Strawberry for your purpose is Sir Joseph 
Paxton. 
Disbudding Vines — Ventilating (II. S.). —Usually there are far too many 
growths left on Vines, whether they are grown on the long-rod or short-spur 
system. On young rods 18 inches apart the laterals ought to be thinned to 
at least that distance asunder along each side of the cane. This should be 
done immediately the bunches are visible in the spring, removing the super¬ 
fluous growths by degrees until the requisite number having the best 
bunches alone are left. Your question on ventilating cannot be answered 
categorically, the direction and force of the wind and the state of the weather 
must always be taken into account. The top ventilators may be left open 
from 2 to G inches provided rain is not admitted and the temperature of the 
house does not fall lower than Go°. The front lights may be opened an inch 
or two on calm nights when the Grapes are colouring. 
Vines Unhealthy (IF. P., Somerset). — We have the satisfaction of inform¬ 
ing you that the condition of the Vine you have sent is not the result of 
phylloxera. Two causes appear to have contributed to its unsatisfactory 
state. First, the interior of the ball of soil was as dry as dust, and by no 
ordinary watering could it be made moist. This is the result of shifting- 
when the soil in the pot from which the Vine was removed was too dry. 
That is one cause of the evil. The other is mixing too much of the fertiliser 
you name in the soil and poisoning the roots. Where we found those in the 
interior as dry as wool and most of those near the sides of the pot corroded, 
we were surprised that the Vine did not succumb before and more completely. 
If you have other Vines showing the same symptoms of collapse you had 
better immerse the pots in a pond for an hour or two, and cut the canes 
down to a healthy lateral; they may then perhaps make a fresh start and 
produce useful rods. 
Carnations for Winter — Tuberoses (L. I. K .).—Unless the plants make 
strong and healthy growth during the summer they will not flower satis¬ 
factorily in the winter. They are better in a frame or even outdoors at this 
season of the year than in a greenhouse, where they almost inevitably 
become drawn, making thin growth and leaves. Old plants which crowd' 
the pots with roots require much water and weak liquid manure once or 
twice a week ; young plants must have the soil always moist, but not 
saturated. As a rule plants that have not filled the pots with roots have 
too much water, while those that are root-bound do not have sufficient. If 
your plants are too large for a frame stand them outdoors in a shaded place 
for a week or ten days, but not under trees, then assign them a more sunny 
position. They perhaps need fresh soil. See our remarks to another 
correspondent. Tuberoses may be potted as soon as you can obtain bulbs in 
the autumn. It is a good plan to bury them in cocoa-nut fibre refuse, like 
Hyacinths, until they commence growing ; but they require more heat than 
Hyacinths afterwards, and a very light position. Your letter has been 
forwarded. 
Names of Fruit (J. M. C .).—Owing to imperfect packing, the fruits- 
not being made firm, they were perfectly unrecognisable. We can only 
say that the foliage of the Strawberry resembles Dr. Hogg. Try it 
another year, the weather in your district may have been unfavourable- 
for this variety this season. 
Names of Plants (J. P .).—Lonicera sempervirens Brownii. (IF. Crans- 
iviclc). —1, Festuca duriuscula; 2, Alopecurus pratensis ; 3, Cynosurus cristatus 
5, Melica uniflora; 6, Lysimachia Nummularia. Miss Plue’s work, “British 
Grasses,” published by Lovell, Reeve, & Co., may perhaps suit you. (F. T .). 
—Populus tremuloides ; 2, Thuja orientalis ; 3, Abies canadensis. (L. B.). 
—Sweet Sultan (Centaurea moschata). (IF. E. B.). —1, Tradescantia 
virginica ; 2, Potentilla argyrophylla ; 3, Doronicum pardalianches ; 4, 
flowers all faded ; 5, Astrantia major. (J. J/c.V.).—1 and 3, Sedum album p 
2, Sedum spurium. ( E. (7., Birmingham). —1, Campanula Trachelium ; 2, C. 
rapunculoides ; 3, C. glomerata ; other specimen insufficient. (E. Kenriclc )_ 
—1, Salix aurita, the Eared Sallow ; 2, Salix argentea, the Silvery Willow ; 
the bud-like formations are the cases of insects that feed upon Willows, and- 
are very general; 3, Trientalis europaea, Chickweed Winter Green, a very 
rare and most interesting plant, and the only British species that belongs to 
the seventh class (Heptandria) of the Linnean arrangement of botany. We 
see no reason why the Sundew should not be found in Aberdeenshire, for 
the plants are generally distributed and grown ameng sphagnum from the 
sea level to 1000 feet or more high. The specimens arrived in very bad con¬ 
dition, and you may consider yourself fortunate in having them identified. 
Plants for naming should not remain in the post office over Sunday, but 
should be posted early in the week. (.-1. F., Bedale). —Phlotnis fruticosa. 
