August 2, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
101 
as many small pots as you require, place a crock or inverted oyster shell 
over the hole of each, then a few smaller crocks according to their sizes, 
the larger at the bottom and smallest at top ; over these place a little moss, 
cocoa-nut fibre, or the more fibry portion of loam, to prevent the fine soil 
being washed down and stopping up the drainage, and so prevent the free 
exit of superabundant water, any hindrance to which is speedily followed 
in all manner of cases by sourness of soil, partial, and eventually total, 
suspension of root-action, and consequent sickness or death of the plant. 
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the necessity of efficient drainage for 
any class of cultivated plants, more especially for those requiring copious 
supplies of water ; and the Chrysanthemum is one of these, particularly so 
when the pots are filled with roots, and the plants are rapidly evaporating 
the moisture they contain under the combined influences of a scorching sun 
and parching wind of a day in July or August. 
The pots being crocked they should be filled with a compost consisting 
of one part mellow loam, one of leaf soil, and two of silver sand or river 
sand. A surfacing of sand may be given, the whole pressed down to within 
half an inch of the rim. watered, and allowed to drain. The cutting is 
inserted firmly in the centre of the pot by means of a small dibber. When 
all the cuttings are inserted place them close to the glass in a greenhouse 
from which frost is excluded, never shade them, but keep the soil constantly 
saturated with water until the pots are nearly filled with roots, when they 
should be transferred to larger pots, and watering must be carried out with 
more care. I am aware that some good Chrysanthemum growers place the 
cutting pots in cold frames and leave them without further protection; but 
such a system does not commend itself to me for various reasons, consequently 
I do not recommend it to others. 
Layering is generally adopted in summer and autumn, more for the 
purpose of obtaining miniature plants for special purposes than for increas¬ 
ing the stock. This is readily effected by bending the selected shoots down 
to the soil or pots in which it is desired to root them, and securing them 
therein, keeping the soil constantly moist until rooted, when they should be 
severed from the old plants and placed in a shady position for a few days 
and syringed several times a day until recovered from the check they have 
received, when they should be exposed to the full influences of sun and air. 
Propagation by division of old stools is so simple as to require no par¬ 
ticular instructions thereon, except that the plants in all cases should he 
treated similarly to rooted layers. 
Having secured young plants, the next step is to decide which shall be 
grown for ordinary greenhouse decoration, which for specimen plants, and 
which for cut flowers for exhibition. In selecting for the first purpose the 
free-flowering varieties have precedence ; for the second, quality as well as 
.quantity is of the irtmost importance ; for specimen blooms size and quality 
must be considered. 
PLANTS FOR GREENHOUSE DECORATION. 
The soil for the first potting should be rather heavier and richer than for 
■cuttings. A good compost is formed of one-third fibry loam, one-third leaf 
mould, and one-third sand. The pots suitable for this shift are 6-inch ones ; 
these should be drained and the drainage secured as directed for the cutting 
pots. The soil in which the plants are growing should be moist at the time 
■of potting, and the same rule applies to all subsequent operations. All being 
ready, place as much soil in the pot as will leave sufficient space between 
the surface of the old ball and the rim as will hold sufficient water to saturate 
the whole mass at one watering. Next fill in all around in equal proportions, 
and press the new soil as firmly as the old, leaving the new soil exactly level 
with the surface of the old ball. After potting place them in a cold frame 
or other structure from which frost can be excluded, keeping them near to 
the glass. Little ventilation should be given till root-action recommences, 
when more air may be given, and their leading points nipped out to enable 
them to develope lateral branches, the process being repeated until as many 
branches are obtained as desired, but in no case to be continued after the 
middle of June, as the growth made after that time sometimes fails to 
produce flowers of a satisfactory character. 
About the beginning or middle of May they may be transferred to the 
pots in which they are to flower, those 10 inches in diameter being quite 
large enough. The soil should be of a strong and rich nature, three parts 
fibry loam, one of leaf mould, one of sand, and one part old manure. The 
potting should be performed as previously directed, with the addition of a 
.sprinkling of soot over the drainage, which will serve as a stimulant and 
assist in keeping worms from entering. The potting should be performed as 
previously directed, taking care to make the new soil as firm as the old ball. 
The plants afterwards should be placed on a bed of ashes in an open situa¬ 
tion, but at the same time where they may be partly sheltered from strong 
.gales. In the case of amateurs and others who are not able to attend to the 
watering in the middle of the day it is a good plan to plunge the pots in 
coal ashes or any other suitable medium three parts of their depth, taking 
care to place the plants sufficiently far apart that each may be exposed to 
■sun and air. 
Water must be unsparingly applied when required, and their wants in 
this respect should rather be anticipated than allow them to suffer in the 
least degree. As growth proceeds and the pots become filled with roots 
weak manure water may be applied at every alternate watering, and after 
;a hot day a sprinkling overhead is very beneficial. The Chrysanthemums 
should be housed the first week in October, and placed where they can have 
unobstructed light and a free circulation of air, with a temperature of 40° 
to 50°. About the end of the month the buds will commence to show their 
colour, and from the middle of November to middle of December will be in 
their full beauty. After flowering they should be cut down and kept in a 
cool light place until a fresh stock has been secured. 
STECIIUEN PLANTS. 
The general treatment of specimen plants for exhibition is very similar 
to that for ordinary decorative plants, but some of the details are necessarily 
different. Having selected from the general stock the most suitable for 
the purpose and the number required, as soon as they are well rooted they 
■should have their points pinched out. This will cause them to throw out 
two, three, or more shoots, and as soon as these have made one or two leaves 
they should be transferred to 5-inch pots, using the same compost as before 
described, and kept growing as rapidly and robustly as possible. As soon 
as the three shoots have attained sufficient size, and whilst they are pliable, 
they should be trained horizontally and equidistant, at the same time 
removing the extreme growing point. After growth has recommenced the 
plants should be potted into 8-inch pots, using a compost of three parts 
turfy loam, one of manure, one of leaf soil, and one of sand. The shoots 
should be kept tied outwards and downwards in order to furnish a good 
foundation for the future specimen, and as soon as these have made three 
or four joints their points should again be removed. After growth ha? 
recommenced the plants will be ready for placing into the pots in which 
they are to flower. These need not be larger than 12 inches in diameter 
(inside measure), a size in which plants measuring 5, 6, and 7 feet across 
may be grown. 
Having drained the pots place some fibry turf over the crocks, and a 
handful of soot over that. Let the compost consist of four parts loam, two 
of decayed horse manure or old Mushroom bed, one of sand, and one of soot. 
Having thoroughly mixed the whole proceed with the potting, ramming 
the soil quite firm. When pottiDg is completed place them in an open but 
moderately sheltered position on a bed of coal ashes, taking care to let each 
plant stand apart from its neighbour. Syringe them in the evening after 
a hot day, and be careful with the watering until root-action has commenced. 
About the second week in June let them receive their final pinching, after 
which the plant will be furnished with from fifty to eighty flowering shoots. 
As growth progresses these should be staked out at equal distances apart, 
or otherwise trained as the cultivator prefers. As the pots become filled 
with roots liquid manure may be given, and occasional waterings with weak 
guano water will be beneficial, but this must be used with great caution. 
As the flower buds are formed they should be thinned out if fine blooms 
are desired. In some cases buds are developed for a considerable distance 
down the stems, and most of these should be removed, as it is impossi de 
for them to develope into good flowers, and their presence is detrimental 
to the quality of those that remain. In all cases of disbudding the central 
or best-formed bud should be left, although occasionally the central bud 
is deformed through accidents. When that is the case the best secondary 
bud should be chosen. A dozen incurved varieties most suitable for speci¬ 
men plants are Barbara, Beverley, Hero of Stoke Newington, Lady Harding, 
George Glenny, Mrs. Heale, Mrs. Dixon, Prince Alfred, Prince of Wales, 
Princess of Wales, Venus, and White Venus. Japanese.—Elaine, Fair Maid 
of Guernsey, James Salter, The Cossack, La Cbarmeuse, and Bouquet Fait. 
Pompons.—General Canrobert, St. Michael, Lady Margaret, Cedo Nulli, and 
Mr. Astie. 
I ought to add that good specimen plants may also be grown from two- 
year-old plants; but unless they are exceptionally well managed the indi¬ 
vidual flowers will not be so fine, and they are more difficult to train. 
(To be continued.) 
EASTBOURNE SHOW. 
July 2Gth. 
A MORE unfortunate day could not have been chosen for the above Show 
as regards the weather, but a more appropriate place than Devonshire Park 
could not have been selected. 
Plants were well shown. In the open class Mr. Gilbert, Springfield 
Nursery, was first with eight admirable specimens in bloom, the most notable 
being Statice profusa, Kalosanthes coccinea, Erica Cavendishiana, quite fresh ; 
E. cerinthioides, and Aphelexis macrantha rosea; Mr. Tudgey of Waltham 
Cross being second with Allamanda Hendersonii, Anthurium Schertzerianum, 
and Erica ferruginea major. Mr. Bann, gardener to J. Warren, Esq., Hand- 
cross Park, was third. In the amateurs’ class for six Mr. Dennis, gardener 
to C. H. Woodroffe, Esq., Silver Hill, Hastings, was a good first, having 
Anthurium Schertzerianum, Clerodendron Balfourianum, Statice profusa, Ac., 
in good condition ; second Mr. Jupp, gardener to G. Boulton, Esq., Torfield, 
Eastbourne. Mr. Rann was to the fore with fine-foliage plants, having 
amongst others Crotons Challenger and Youngi very handsome, Gleichenia 
Mendelli, and Pritchardia pacifica ; Mr. Tudgey being a close second, having 
Croton Queen Victoria, C. Johannis, Cocos Weddelliana, &c., in fine con¬ 
dition. Mr. Gilbert was third. In the amateurs’ class for six Mr. Jupp was 
first. For eight exotic Ferns Mr. Gilbert was first, Mr. Jupp being second, 
Mr. James, Lower Norwood, third. Mr. Tudgey was easily first for six 
Ericas. For groups arranged for effect Mr. Jupp was placed first with a 
very bright effective group, well arranged, and not a bare pot to be seen. 
Fuchsias, Achimenes, Begonias, &c., were fairly shown. Messrs. J. Veitch 
and Sons of Chelsea exhibited an interesting and varied collection of plants 
not for competition, which attracted more notice and admiration than 
anything else in the Show; they also exhibited stands of Roses, Carnations, 
and Picotees. 
Cut flowers were not in strong force. There were only two exhibitors in 
the open class for Roses, thirty-six trebles ; Mr. Piper, nurseryman, Uckfield, 
being first and Mr. Mitchell, Piltdown Nursery, Uckfield, a close second. 
Both these exhibitors showed well. Mr. Knight, Hailsham Nursery, also put 
up a very good stand not for competition, and a bunch of flowers of Rhus 
Cotinus, which attracted attention. For twenty-four bunches of cut flowers 
Mr. Gilbert was first with a very good stand, Mr. James second, and Mr. Jupp 
third. There were other prizes for cut flowers, but these were restricted to 
members of the Society, and no one is eligible to become a member unless he 
resides within the parish of Eastbourne. 
Fruit was rather sparingly shown, but some of the exhibits were good 
and some were otherwise. For collection of eight dishes Mr. Gore, gardener 
to Capt. Taylor, Glenleigh, was first, very closely pressed by Mr. Williams 
gardener to C. Liddell, Esq., Peasemarsh Place, whose Grapes were excellent, 
the former having a little advantage in the small fruit. Mr. Williams 
obtained three first prizes in the classes for black Grapes, white Grapes, and 
single bunch of any kind, being followed closely by Mr. Booth, gardener to 
W. Yates, Esq., Buckham Hill, Uckfield, in black varieties, and Mr. Gore in 
white varieties. Buckland Sweetwater was exhibited by Mr. Williams very 
fine, the berries being particularly large. Mr. Jupp had very good Peaches 
and Nectarines, and was first with both. Mr. Booth was first for scarlet- 
flesh Melons, Mr. Williams first with green-flesh. All the classes for 
vegetables were confined to members except one, Messrs. Carter & Co.’s 
special prizes, and there were complaints about that, Mr. Williams being 
