126 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 9, 1883 
ficent Erica retorta major quite 6 feet through, a grand Anthurium, and a 
Stephanotis floribunda nearly 7 feet in diameter covered with bloom ; in fact 
this was one of the finest plants ever exhibited. Allamanda Schotti was also 
a mass of bloom, also Dipladenia Brearleyana, and a splendid plant of Statice 
profnsa grandly bloomed. For this collection he was deservedly awarded 
the first prize. Mr. J. Cypher, Cheltenham, was second with a good collection, 
and amongst other plants we noticed a fine Clerodendron Balfourianum well 
flowered. Mr. W. Jones, nurseryman, Maindee, was awarded the third prize 
for a very fair collection. 
For eight fine-foliage plants there was a keen competition between Mr. 
Wattie and Mr. Cypher ; but the Judges justly awarded the former the first 
prize, as his plants’were of a very fine character, being fresh and of a good 
colour. Mr. Cypher took second prize, and Mr. E. A. Lee, The Coldra, the 
third prize. 
In the amateur class Mr. Wattie was again to the fore, staging a very 
fine collection of fair plants, including a grand Stephanotis and a beautiful 
Dipladenia called Wattyana; E. A. Lee, Esq. (R. Giddings, gardener), was 
second ; G. J. Jones, Esq. (S. Bishop, gardener) was third. E. Fowler, Esq., 
Pontypool, was awarded first prize for a fine collection of Orchids. 
The competition for the prizes for fruit was very keen, and, considering 
the wet weather we have had, the collections were very fine. 
The day being fine the elite of the neighbourhood and county attended, 
and we are pleased to hear that financially as well as in every other respect 
the Show was a decided success, and amply repaid the great efforts of the 
Committee and Secretaries. 
WQRKjoiiTfiE WEEK,. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Fruit-protection .—Late Cherries must now be thoroughly guarded 
from the attacks of wasps and birds. To do this effectually there is 
nothing equal to Nottingham netting bound with tape to which rings are 
sewn, so that it may be put over the trees, or taken down easily and 
quickly by slipping the rings over hooks or nails driven into the wall, 
and thus avoid the wear and tear which is unavoidable when the tedious 
process of driving nails through the netting is followed. Do not wait 
till the fruit is ripe before doing this, for blackbirds and thrushes clear it 
off as soon as it softens slightly and begins to colour. Gooseberries 
require a light framework of poles to keep the netting from contact 
with the bushes. The best way of keeping off birds as well as insects 
is to put closely woven garden mats round the sides of the bushes and 
Nottingham netting over the top ; or if a rectangular enclosure be made 
around several bushes, then 6-inch strips of half-inch deal put on edge 
round the bottom of the framework, fastened to its supports, and having 
nails or hooks for the rings of the netting, answers perfectly, and is 
preferable to the mats because it is less costly and more durable. It is 
quite useless to trust to netting thrown over framework and only fastened 
to the ground with pegs, for the blackbirds then inevitably find a way 
under the netting, even if it is double. Red and White Currants required 
to be kept for late use should be closely covered with garden mats both 
on walls and in the open plantations. 
Strawberries .—The picking of the last fruit should be promptly fol¬ 
lowed by a clearance from between the rows of all superfluous growth, 
and the application of a heavy dressing of manure to all beds that are 
to be kept and the hoeing-up of the plants of old exhausted beds. To 
do this is simply to obey a fundamental law of gardening, or rather to 
follow the dictates of common sense, which tell one that no plant should 
ever be suffered to exhaust the soil unnecessarily. Concerning the 
digging-in of manure between the rows now there is a considerable 
difference of opinion, but it is a matter with which mere opinion has 
nothing to do. In a close heavy soil liable to settle into an inert mass 
and to become sodden with rain the digging-in of manure now is neces¬ 
sary, not only to feed the plants, but to preserve them through winter 
from the destruction to which they are then so liable in a water-logged 
soil. But in a free, light, open, thoroughly porous soil through which 
rain water quickly passes to the drains a top-dressing of manure without 
digging will suffice. These are precious items of dear-bought experience, 
purchased by us many years ago at the cost of a large Strawberry bed 
before we had learnt to test all theoretical opinions by the light of prac¬ 
tice. Make a reserve bed of runners dibbled in a few inches apart in 
any spare border or nook. Such plants are useful to fill gaps in new beds 
in spring, and also for planting or potting next spring or summer. On 
the 17th of April we planted two large beds of several new sorts on trial 
from a reserve bed. The bloom was kept picked off, and they are now 
magnificent plants quite certain to afford a full crop of fruit next summer, 
and thus enable us to ascertain the relative value of each sort in pro¬ 
ductiveness as well as in size and flavour. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Cucumbers. —Raising Plants for Winter Fruiting .—Now is a good 
time to make a sowing of some good-constitutioned and free-bearing 
kind, there not being any better than Rollisson’s Telegraph, whilst 
Pettigrew’s Cardiff Castle and Verdant Green are capital sorts. The seed 
is best sown singly in 3-inch pots in light and not very rich soil, plung¬ 
ing in a Cucumber or other frame where there is a gentle heat and as 
the plants require more root room shift them into larger pots as required, 
until they become large enough for planting out either in beds with 
hot-water pipes for furnishing bottom heat, or they may be fruited 
satisfactorily in pots or boxes. A suitable compost for winter-fruiting 
Cucumbers may consist of three parts good light fibrous loam, one part 
peat, and about a sixth of charcoal, which is useful in keepipg the soil 
sweet. Any feeding required is best given as surface dressings or in 
liquid form. The young plants will need securing to small sticks aa 
they advance to keep them from snapping, rubbing off all laterals 
whilst quite young, until they have sufficient stem to reach the trellis. 
Stopping, Tying, Syringing, and Watering .— Stopping must be at¬ 
tended to frequently. Plants in good health need only have one joint left 
beyond the show of fruit, but weakly plants may be allowed more spread 
of growth with a view to encourage root-action. Thinning must not be 
allowed to get into arrear, removing superfluous shoots, also mis-shapen 
fruits, and do not allow anything like overcropping or the fruit to remain 
longer on the plants than they are fit to cut. Tie the shoots evenly over 
the trellis. Syringe twice a day in bright weather, and close early in 
the afternoon, 3 or 3.30 p.m., according to the power of the sun. Be 
carsful not to allow the plants to want for water at the roots, but do not 
over-water, and when it becomes necessary apply it or liquid manure 
in a tepid state thoroughly. 
Insects .—Woodlice are often very troublesome, the best remedy fox 
which is to make the soil firm around the sides of the bed, placing a little 
hay there, and in the morning pour boiling water along the sides and 
ends of the structure where the hay is placed. If done judiciously the 
water will not injure the roots of the plants. Should red spider appear 
heat the hot-water pipes to 160° or over, and coat them whilst hot with 
sulphur made into a thin wash with skim milk. If mildew appear dust 
the plants with flowers of sulphur. Green and black aphides are sometimes 
troublesome at this season of the year, for which there is no better 
remedy than careful fumigation with tobacco paper on two or three 
consecutive evenings, being careful to have the foliage dry, and not to 
give an overdose. 
Pines. —Treatment of Young Plants .—Young stock under the con¬ 
ditions that naturally prevail at this season, combined with proper 
attention, will make quick and vigorous progress, which so long as solar 
influences are favourable should be encouraged. Ventilation must be 
carefully attended to, commencing to ventilate from 80°, maintaining the 
heat about the plants through the day at from 85° to 95°, closing at 85°. 
By this time the plants will have become inured to sunshine so as to be 
able to resist its effects without injury, in which case shading should be 
dispensed with ; and anything impeding the free access to the plants of 
the solar influences must be removed. With a view to promote speedy 
growth in recently potted plants the heat at the roots should be main¬ 
tained steady at 95°. Carefully water such plants, as, until roots are 
formed, only a small quantity will be required, but when the soil in the 
pots is permeated with healthy roots plentiful supplies of water are 
needed, with some stimulating agent in a weak state. 
Fruiting Plants .—The night temperature should be kept at 70° to 75°, 
and the maximum by day 95° from sun heat, closing the house at 90* 
when the sun begins to wane in the afternoon. Damp the floor at 
closing time, and the plants also two or three times a week. 
Melons. — Stopping, Thinning, and Tying .—Stopping the growths 
to one joint as made after the fruit is set and swelling will need 
frequent attention; and not less important is the removal of growths 
where they become crowded so as to interfere with the access of light 
and air to the principal foliage. The shoots should be disposed even 
on the trellis, so that light and air will have free access. 
Moisture .—The atmospheric moisture in both houses and pits or 
frames will need to be regulated according to the weather and the 
stage of growth at which the occupants of each structure have arrived, 
damping requiring to be done very carefully in pits and frames where 
hot-water pipes are not at command. Frames will be the better of 
having the linings made up moderately in which the plants are 
swelling off their fruit, and those setting will need a little air constantly 
to insure a good set. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Tradescantia marginata variegata .—This entirely supersedes the 
old zebrina for furnishing purposes, and its beautiful foliage is very 
attractive and useful for associating with cut flowers, and can be used 
in a variety of ways with great effect. Where a continual supply 39 
required cuttings should be inserted at intervals of two or three weeks. 
Every cutting inserted will root in a stove or intermediate temperature 
without either being shaded or kept in a close frame. This plant is most 
serviceable when about four or five cuttings are established in 2-incb 
pots and used for furnishing when the plants are about 3 inches high. 
The beautiful foliage of this plant associated with small Ferns and 
Lycopodiums for edging groups of plants have really a charming effect. 
It need scarcely be said this plant is easy to grow, and in no way par¬ 
ticular about soil or treatment, and in consequence is invaluable for the 
purpose for which it is recommended. 
Bertolonias .—However select a collection of stove plants may be, a 
few plants of these where foliage is appreciated should find a place. 
Their foliage is so beautiful and distinct that few fail to admire them 
when well grown. These plants are easy of cultivation, but to grow 
them to perfection require a close frame or to be under bell-glasses. 
They will do well without if the house in which they are grown is kept 
close. In order to keep them in the best of condition through the winter 
a number of cuttings should be rooted without delay. If the cutting3 
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