134 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 16, 1833. 
cisco to Washington Territory. It is a very charming and easily grown 
species, flourishing well in a warm border of light rich soil, its sparsely 
flower umbels being particularly striking and durable The woodcut 
(fig. 24) represents a fine truss of the natural size.—J. T. R. 
APRICOT BRANCHES DYING-. 
Cultivation .—We very often attribute failure to soil and 
climate where it is sometimes more traceable to error in culti¬ 
vation. I have before alluded to the practice of encouraging a 
too vigorous growth in the first few years after planting, with 
a view to cover the allotted space as quickly as possible and to 
secure profitable returns speedily. The extension system, or 
rather the long-growth principle, is more likely to succeed under 
g’ass than in the open; but even under glass periodical lifting 
becomes a necessity in many cases—indeed, it enters largely 
into the practice of the most successful cultivators. 
Since 1875 the seasons have been very unfavourable to out¬ 
door fruit culture, but before this Apricot trees had suffered 
from the branches dying, yet it increased of late years, simply 
because the seasons -were more unfavourable to ripen the 
growths, and the disasters were more marked. It is no use 
grumbling about the soil or climate If the cultivation be of such 
a kind as not to counteract its baneful tendencies. Too rich 
and loose soil induces a strong soft growth, and so does a dull 
wet summer. The soil ought not to be of this description, but 
sweet and firm, and the tendency to over-luxuriance checked by 
judicious root-pruning. This latter is practically of no use in 
preventing either gum, canker, or dying of the branches if 
performed after a strong growth has been made in late autumn, 
nor indeed at all if such growth is allowed to remain; for although 
it may ripen somewhat it never does so thoroughly, succumb¬ 
ing to the first severe weather; and though the evil may not 
then show itself, the sap vessels are so much ruptured that the 
sap can only rise by the internal layers, and the branch eel apses 
when the tree is in full growth, and perhaps laden with fruit. 
The m scliief was done irreparably during the year of the forma¬ 
tion of the wood, that at some future time cankers, gums, or 
withers. 
Young trees must be commenced with if a remedy is to 
be found, and they usually grow freely in their early "stages. 
Any trees, even the first year after planting, that exhibit a 
tendency to make wood not likely to ripen thoroughly should 
be operated on early in August, as they will then have completed 
the main growth, and any further effort may be counteracted 
by taking out a trench about one-third the height of the tree 
from the stem, cutting off all roots, filling it again, and making 
the soil thoroughly firm. If the weather be moist and dull it 
may not be necessary to water and shade, but if bright it will 
be advisable to give water if the leaves become limp, and shade 
for a few days from bright sun. If the late summer be favour¬ 
able the wood will ripen to the point and the prospect of fruit 
insured; but if the autumn be cold and wet it is possible the 
wood may not ripen to the extremity, and must be cut back to 
firm, brown, well-ripened wood. This procedure should be 
continued year by year until the tree has filled its allotted space. 
Trees that are full grown often produce much breastwood, 
and as this is strong it should be removed, and that reserved for 
laying-in ought to be of moderate vigour and short in the joints. 
This will to a certain extent equalise the sap and throw more 
support info the short stubby shoots, spurs, and shoots of mode¬ 
rate growth trained in, and allow sun to have access to the wall, 
thereby securing more warmth to the growths, resulting in their 
more perfect maturation. Yet thi--, good as it is, will fail to 
effect the object in view unless the supply of nutriment be pro¬ 
portionately lessened. This can be done most safely, as the 
Plum stock is a most prolific rooter, and emits roots freely 
from the root-stem abundantly, especially if encouragement be 
given by mulching and keeping the soil moist. The best time 
to operate with trees that are fully grown or nearly so is as soon 
as all the fruit is gathered, or if there be no crop it may be 
performed during the first fortnight in August. A third the 
distance from the stem that the growths extend is a safe distance 
to take out a trench and there to detach all roots, and if the 
weather be dull and moist the trench may remain open, which 
will cause roots to be emitted freely in the part undisturbed; 
but it must be filled again if the weather be dry or upon a return 
to bright weather, the undisturbed part thoroughly watered if 
it becomes 1 ry, and the tree shaded from powerful sun, as it is 
important the foliage be retained. At the time of operation all 
useless spray and long spurs should be cut back. If a mulching 
of short manure be given over the undisturbed part it will 
lessen the necessity for water and encourage surface roots ; but 
it must be borne in mind that “ dry-as-dust ” mulchings are as 
impotent for that purpose as a baked surface soil. The value 
of mulching consists in its being kept moist, especially where 
surface-rooting is a desideratum, as it unquestionably is in fruit 
culture. 
I have purposely avoided making allusion to the “borer” 
(as advanced by Mr. Crossling in your Journal some years ago) 
being the cause of Apricot branches dying. I have been on the 
look-out for this destroyer of Gooseberry and Currant bushes 
ever since, but in no instance have I found any evidence of the 
drill hole in the branches that have died too often on Apricot 
trees.—G. Abbey. 
ZONAL PELARGONIUMS. 
“ Once upon a time ” Fashion made its way into the flower 
garden, and said that the beds were to be ablaze with bright colours 
in summer, and that scarlet Pelargoniums were to predominate. 
The fickle tryant’s word was law for the moment in this as in all 
other matters ; and although her fiat induced much vulgar display, 
yet the rage which it created for a class of plants of such easy culture 
“ meant money,” and the idea was seized upon, and promptly turned 
to account by many a shrewd clever man of business. The annual 
demands for Pelargoniums by the tens of thousands led to an im¬ 
provement in the guise of new varieties, which also became an annual 
event, and may be said to have become permanent, for it has con¬ 
tinued ever since, till a degree of excellence has been attained that is 
far beyond the conception of the originators of the work. In proof of 
this I may refer to the “ Floricultural Cabinet ” for 1850, which con¬ 
tains a coloured plate published in July of that year of a pink 
variety called Tom Thumb’s Bride, described as “ a very lovely 
variety, and merits a place in every greenhouse, dwelling-room, 
window, or flower bed,” but which is a mere weed in comparison with 
any of the best sorts now in cultivation. 
The fashion for glaring masses of scarlet Pelargoniums is now a 
thing of the past. Good taste soon led to the introduction of quiet 
tones and softer tints ; yet never were Pelargoniums more valued or 
turned to better account than now, nor were really good sorts ever so 
numerous. I have lying upon my desk a catalogue of the present 
year containing nearly five hundred varieties offered for sale by an 
enterprising firm of nurserymen. Many of them are doubtless too 
much alike in colour, but the majority possess distinctive features 
calculated to please individual taste, and all of them are undoubtedly 
of considerable merit. A certain proportion of Pelargoniums are 
still, and probably always will be, valued for flower beds in summer, 
but they are of even greater use for culture in pots throughout the year, 
making as gay a show at Christmas as at midsummer if a suitable 
glass house can be spared for them, as is done now in every garden 
where it is possible. Plants potted now and brought on slowly in 
the open air or in a spare pit where the lights can be put on during 
much rain, are removed to a light span-roofed house in autumn, and a 
temperature of 55°, say from the end of September, keeps them in 
full bloom till spring. Ii is not, however, my purpose to enter upon 
such familiar details of culture, but rather to call attention to the 
merits of a dozen or two varieties good either for pot culture cr beds 
selected from a considerable number which I have tried. Of these the 
first place is worthily taken by 
■Eureka . — Quite indispensable for its pure white flowers, free 
from blotch or tinge of any other colour, and with compact hand¬ 
some trusses of well-formed flowers. This is a great acquisition, and 
quite supersedes all other single white sorts. 
Right Ahead. —Very bright g^wing scarlet, with a bold white 
eye. The truss of medium size is compact, and very useful for cutting. 
J. C. Musters. —Has a grand truss of large circular flowers, deep 
scarlet in colour, with a charming delicate bluish tinge on the edges 
of the lower petals. . 
Apple Blossom. —Grown under shade this lovely variety has white 
flowers delicately tinged with pink, but in a light sunny position the 
colour deepens to a charming bright pink that is very attractive. It 
makes a neat compact plant, is very free flowering, and is so choice 
as to be worthy of a place everywhere. 
Mrs. Pearson —Has very handsome flowers, large, and of an 
attractive soft shade of orange scarlet. 
Evening Star. —This is so distinct and lovely that everybody 
should grow it. Its well-formed white flowers with a bold pink eye 
are quite unique. It should not be fully exposed to the sun, but is 
best in a soft light. 
Laura Strachan. —A fine sort with salmon-coloured flowers, very 
large handsome trusses. 
Louise. —A deep rich glowing scarlet, very striking and attractive, 
with large flowers, and a very large truss. 
Lady Eva Campbell. —Handsome flowers, of a delicate salmon 
tint, light near the edge and shaded inwards to a much deeper hue. 
Henry Jacoby. —A deep rich scarlet, sometimes described as a 
