August 16, 18 3. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
145 
worth variety. All these grow well, and may be regarded as the best 
shrubs for smoky districts. 
Flowers are too numerous to enumerate, but Carnations are prominent, 
the leading named varieties in pots, and Cloves and free-growing sorts in 
the borders. These must rank among the very best of town plants, and 
are as fresh and fine as in the country. Foxgloves thrive well in towns, 
and their stately spikes are most effective earlier in the season in the 
background. Helianthuses appear to luxuriate, as do Pyrethrums, 
Potentillas, Japanese Anemones, Sweet Williams, Campanulas, Michael¬ 
mas Daisies, (Enotheras, summer and autumn Chrysanthemums, Ver- 
bascums, Clematises, Funkias, Pentstemons, Achilleas, and Spiraeas, 
S. lobata being very beautiful. Robust and brilliant, too, is Lobelia car- 
dinalis ignea, showing that these effective herbaceous Lobelias are well 
adapted for town decoration. Grown for affording elegant foliage for cut¬ 
ting as a substitute for Adiantums are Thalictrums, T. adiantoides being 
worth growing everywhere for this purpose ; and also most elegant 
and valuable for vases are the slender sprays of Gypsophila paniculata. 
Stocks and Asters succeed well in towns, but not better than 
Phlox Druummondi, of which, from Veitch’s seed, there are some 
splendid varieties. Nearly all kinds of annuals succeed—Sweet Peas, 
Eschscholtzias, Candytuft, and Mignonette being particularly fine, 
the latter, indeed, extraordinarily vigorous. Beautiful in this border 
are Fuchsias, bushes and standards. Old plants were kept as dry 
and cool as possible in winter, and were planted in late spring or early 
summer just when commencing growth. It is not often Fuchsias under 
.glass are seen growing so sturdily and flowering so freely as these are, 
and plants might with advantage be similarly treated in other gardens. 
They may be wintered in any dark or light place from which frost is 
excluded. Aralia elata, a noble and stately species, is very handsome by 
its robust growth and grand spreading leaves. It was obtained from the 
Continent, and is distinctly ornamental. 
All the above flowers show to advantage by the ample relief afforded by 
the comparatively great extent of smooth lawns. The greater part of 
these were obtained by sowing seeds, and the advantages of thick sowing 
are apparent. On one portion the seed was sown of twice the thickness 
recommended by Messrs. Carter, who supplied it; and on this portion the 
lawn in six weeks was excellent, and in seven resembled old turf. The 
seed was sown in April. The other portion, sown thinner, was some 
weeks longer in forming a close surface, but both portions are in the best 
possible condition now. 
There is but little glass, but what there is is well utilised. As before 
remarked, the Grapes are excellent; the berries of the first size and 
quality, but imperfect in colour. Of Liliums there is a great collection, 
these plants being fine for towns. In frames are massive Cockscombs, 
the Scotch variety (McLachlan’s) and Young’s variety ; the former is the 
brighter, but the latter is very close and compact. It has been grown by 
Capt. Patton’s gardener for forty years, and ought not to be lost. In 
another frame is the finest stock of young plants probably to be found 
in the country of Lisianthus Russellianus, and some small plants are 
flowering. Mr. Young is an adept at growing this plant, which so few 
persons seem to manage well. He has small plants flowering, but has 
grown specimens bearing upwards of 500 Tulip-shaped purple blooms, and 
they were grand, such as have probably never been surpassed, if equalled. 
He is undoubtedly a first-rate cultivator, and the garden in his charge is 
a credit to him, both his employer and himself having good reason to be 
proud of it, and they have certainly shown in the most conclusive manner 
that plants and flowers can be grown in London.— Inspector. 
CULTURAL NOTES ON ORCHIDS. 
Booting Material .—Kentish peat, brown, fibrous, and lasting, with 
healthy-growing sphagnum moss, surpasses every other material I 
have seen or tried ; but unfortunately we do not all live in the midst 
of Kentish peat, and when we order it we are not sure of securing the 
real article. Half peat and half moss, with a liberal admixture of 
charcoal nodules, form a compost which the great majority of Orchids 
will grow in. One of the best substitutes for brown peat is the roots 
of our strong-growing native Ferns. This material is practically peat. 
When I first employed it some eight years ago the roots were pulled 
in pieces by the hand ; I now chop it into pieces. It is also necessary 
to employ more sphagnum with this than Kentish peat. Coarse turf 
from heathy soil is very commonly used, but it is greatly inferior to 
cither of the above materials, as it is wanting in those lasting properties 
so necessary for Orchid culture. I have seen plants do well in ordinary 
black peat and sphagnum, but in this instance they were very 
large, and were carefully watered by a skilful cultivator. For 
Vandas, Aerides, Saccolabiums, and Phalsenopsids I use only sphagnum 
and charcoal. Then there are kinds like the winter-flowering Calanthes, 
•which thrive in ordinary turfy loam ; but these and others which 
succeed in loam may be satisfactorily grown in a peat and sphagnum 
•compost. I have seen very grand examples of Calantbe Yeitchii grow¬ 
ing amongst charcoal and crocks alone. Plenty of water and a Pine- 
stove temperature were the main factors of success. Many sorts do 
best on blocks, while a large number which are grown in p >ta or 
baskets grow equally well on these. The best kind of “ blocking ” 
material is Fern stems, and the best kind of Fern stem is found in 
•our own woods. The stems in these are covered with a thick matting 
of fibrous roots, which may be shaved off as closely, or left as rough, 
as the cultivator considers best. 
Mode of Potting .—Much depends on the way an Orchid is potted. 
In mixed collections of limited extent we occasionally find examples of 
such bad potting that none of the other conditions necessary to the 
plants thriving have any good effect, through the potting being so badly 
done. I have tried experiments with several kinds of Orchids as to 
whether any difference would follow from the mode of potting. As 
examples, Lycaste Skinneri and Odontoglossum grande may be named 
as having been tried potted like ordinary plants. The surface of the 
soil was kept slightly convex, but everything was beneath the level 
of the rim of the pots, at the edges half an inch or more. They 
succeeded very well thus, but not so well as when kept well above the 
rim, and for most kinds that is the best plan. The usual mode of 
potting is to fill the pot to within an inch or two of the rim with drainage, 
then place a layer of the potting material, and on that the roots of 
the plants. I find it a great mistake to bury any surface roots. It is 
much the better plan to keep these out of the ordinary potting material 
altogether, and work them in amongst the living sphagnum moss, 
which forms a top layer. It may be noted as a safe plan to keep 
any young growths just clear of the compost; if the moss touches the 
base of the growths that is sufficient. A better root-growth will be 
made when the young growths are clear of the compost than when 
they touch it, or, worse still, are covered in some degree with it. I 
like to make the compost firm. If a plant when being repotted shows 
signs of being unsteady when moved it should be staked at once. Two 
stakes put down the sides of the pot opposite to each other is the 
best way of securing the plant. Of course more stakes may be necessary, 
and when they are they must be giveu. Plants put on Fern stems must 
also be made quite steady. This may either be done by tying with wires, 
or in the case with strong-bulbed plants by staking with stout galvanised 
wire. One end of the wire is pushed into the Fern stem, and the pseudo¬ 
bulb is tied firmly to the wire. 
Time to Repot .—A simple and good rule is to repot when root- 
action commences, no matter whether that time is spring, summer, or 
early autumn. If the roots lay hold of the compost as soon as potting 
is over there is slight danger of anything going wrong if ordinary 
care is taken. In the case of Odontoglossum Alexandra, plants of 
which are coming into flower at all seasons, it will be necessary to 
pot at the different times fresh root-action commences with the various 
plants. This fact may be pointed out to beginners, that this Orchid 
and very many others have two periods of root-growth in one season— 
one when fresh roots are protruded from young growths, and another 
later, a set of roots being formed about the time the flower spike commences 
to elongate. The time to repot is when the first set of roots are made. 
A surfacing of fresh moss is sometimes advantageous at the time of the 
second root. It is quite possible to repot too often. Small plants 
doubtless require to be shifted annually—that is, if they require more 
root room, as most small plants do ; but good-sized established plants, 
so long as they continue in vigorous health, are better without potting. 
In the case of Vandas the old sphagnum requires removing and the 
drainage washed clean with tepid water, but in doing that there is no 
occasion to interfere with the roots. 
Watering .—This is a matter of very great importance. I find among 
young men very hazy ideas on the subject. Some of them will water 
plants until serious mischief is apparent, or, on the other hand, will 
dry them up, and on scientific principles too. Common sense and 
experience, however, point out the necessity of watering Orchids much 
like other plants. If a plant is newly potted it will be safe to err 
rather in allowing the compost to become overdry than to water too 
often. On the other hand, a plant well established in a pot, and roots 
filling every particle of available space, dryness will be just as dangerous. 
Liquid manure is advantageous to root-bound Orchids. 
Insects .—Orchids suffer extremely from these. A Cattleya Skinneri 
and a Lcelia fell into bad condition with us, and it was only on a close 
examination that the cause was found to be a minute scale, which, 
hiding underneath the loose upper skin, had almost killed the plants. 
Green fly on some young Odontoglossums has been very troublesome this 
year. A simple mode of getting rid of any intruder is to remove it 
at once with the finger and thumb. I do not know any better means 
of destroying slugs than to search for them at night and morning and 
on wet days. 
Various Remarks .—Orchids seem to like an early start; a long season 
of growth, in which term is included the period of ripening, which is, 
perhaps, of more importance than many think it to be ; and a definite 
period of resting. The matters of air-giving, shading, and damping 
are questions of locality. With new hothouses our own practice has 
materially altered. Far less ventilation is required, more shade, and also 
more moisture, though in that, again, it may be explained that very 
often damping is only performed in the evening, and never oftener 
than twice a day.—B. 
THE INSECT ENEMIES OF OUR GARDEN CROPS. 
No. 6. 
Not a few of our cultivated plants have to endure the visitations 
of a variety of insects all through their season of growth, so that 
the gardener has hardly had time to congratulate himself upon the 
removal of one enemy before he has to be upon his guard against the 
attacks of another. Thus Peas and Beans, after having their young 
leaves nipped by beetles of the genus Sitona, when they have arrived 
at full foliage and are coming into flower become the abiding place 
of swarms of aphides. It is a common remark amongst growers that 
the Pea suffers from the green fly, and the Bean from the black 
