August, 16, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
147 
the safest and most certain cure is to remove the infested leaves and burn 
them. 
Caterpillars can only be kept in check by careful hand-picking. The 
large green-and-yellow ones quickly denude a shoot of its most healthy 
foliage, and are very partial to a fine plump exhibition bloom when expand¬ 
ing, completely disfiguring it in a night. The small brown caterpillar, if 
not equally voracious, is certainly quite as injurious—getting into the points 
of the shoots as soon as the buds are formed, and either destroying them 
entirely or taking a portion of the bud, and so spoiling the whole. Tobacco 
.powder is distasteful to them, but I have not observed that it has killed 
them, and the only effective remedy I have yet found is to catch them by 
hand. Green fly is more easily dealt with, and may be kept entirely in 
check when the plants are under glass by means of fumigation, but when 
they are out of doors other preventives and remedies must be used. Fre¬ 
quent syringings with soapsuds is very beneficial, and soft soap dissolved 
in rain water at the rate of 2 ozs. to the gallon will effectually destroy 
them. Tobacco powder is an efficient remedy when the former is not 
practicable. This should be applied to the parts infested whilst the shoots 
are wet, so that it may adhere more readily. 
MILDEW. 
Th's is very troublesome at times, and in bad cases almost deprives the 
plants of foliage, and as it spreads very rapidly under certain atmospheric 
conditions flowers of sulphur should be applied on its first appearance ; but 
as it is invariably developed on the under side of the leaves there is some 
difficulty in applying the sulphur in its dry form. Therefore a weak 
solution of soft soap and sulphur is recommended, which may be applied 
by means of the syringe. If only a few leaves are affected it may be 
entirely destroyed by sponging them with the soap-and-sulphur solution. 
Sulphur dusted on the hot-water pipes after the Chrysanthemums are housed 
is of great service in preventing mildew or holding it in check, but it should 
not be allowed to remain on the pipes (if they are likely to become very 
much heated) till the flowers expand, or their colour is liable to be affected. 
VARIETIES. 
The best thirty-six varieties of Chrysanthemums for exhibition as cut 
blooms, arranged alphebetically, are Angelina, Alfred Salter, Barbara, 
Beverley, Bronze Jardin des Plantes, Beauty, Cherub, Emily Dale, Empress 
of India, Golden Empress of India, Golden Queen of England, Hero of 
Stoke Newington, Inner Temple, Isabella Bott, Jardin des Plantes, John 
Salter, Le Grand, Lady Harding, Lord Wolselev, Mr. Bunn, Mr. Brunlees, 
Mr. Corbay, Mr. George G'enny, Mrs. Dixon, Mrs. G. Rundle, Mis. Heale, 
Nil Desperandum, Novelty, Prince Alfred, Prince of Wales, Princess 
Beatrice, Princess of Wales, Princess Teck, Refulgence, Venus, and White 
Venus. 
Twenty-four good Japanese are Agrement de la Nature, Bismarck, 
Bouquet Fait, Baronne de Prailly, Bronze Dragon, Comte de Germany, 
Curiosity, Comtesse de Beauregard, Dr. Masters, Elaine, Ethel, Fair Maid 
of Guernsey, Fulgore, Garnet, Gloire de Toulouse, James Salter, La 
Oharmeuse, Lady Selborne, La Nymphe, Madame Andiguier, Magnum 
Bonum, Mons. Ardene, Peter the Great, and The Cossack. 
Eighteen good Pompons are Aigle d’Or, Brunette, Champs Elysees, 
Ernest Benary, Cedo Nulli, Lilac Cedo Nulli, Madame de Vatry, Mdlle. 
Marthe, Marabout, Pablo, Polycarp, Princess Mathilde, Proserpine, Rose 
Trevenna, St. Justia, St. Michael, Salomon, and Snowdrop. 
Twelve good Anemone-flowered are Bijou, Fair Margaret, Fleur de 
Marie, Georges Sands, Gluck, Lady Margaret, L’Africaine, Miss Eyre, Mrs. 
iPethers, Prince of Anemones, Princess Louise, Princess Marguerite, and 
Tirginale. 
The foregoing lists may be considerably lengthened or altered according 
to tastes and opinions. 1 have only made a selection. I have not attempted 
to name all the varieties enumerated or said to be good in catalogues, but 
have mentioned such varieties as I know to be of sterling merit. Much 
more might be written and said upon the genus Chrysanthemum, as the 
subject is a comprehensive one, and I have endeavoured to cover as great 
an area as would be consistent with a general review and history of some of 
the species. In conclusion I may say that, as in most other things, there is 
no royal road to the successful culture of the Chrysanthemum ; but there 
are at least three things essential—First, a liking for the flower; second, 
an object aimed at; and, third, steadfast purpose to attain it. Given those 
three things, a fourth point—viz., attention to details, will follow in natural 
sequence. 
*5 WORK for,.the WEEK. § 
t 
% 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Lifting Potatoes .—Second early and midseason Potatoes are now full 
grown and fast gaining maturity, and lifting them from the ground 
should be no longer delayed. So far we have been remarkably free 
from disease, and the crop is much above an average one in quantity and 
quality. Much, however, depends on how they are harvested, and this 
should have the best of attention. No greater mistake could be made 
than lifting the tubers when the soil is pasty and wet, as they do not 
come out of it clean when in this condition, and they are a long time in 
■drying, which is all against their long and successful keeping.. We 
always allow at least two fine days to occur before attempting to lift 
any quantity of them, and then the soil falls away from them and leaves 
them clean and dry. They should be taken up in the early part of the 
day, and should be allowed to remain on the ground until the evening, 
when they may be placed undercover. It is in collecting them from the 
ground that they can be most easily sorted into their sizes, and this we 
always do by selecting the large tubers first and housing them for eat¬ 
ing, then the second-sized tubers are collected for seed, and the very 
small tubers are gathered for pig-feeding. A dark airy shed is the best 
place in which to store the largest tubers, and the seed Potatoes may be 
kept anywhere, as light does them no harm, but the “ greening ” process 
to which many are subjected is treatment we do not approve of to any 
extent. This consists in allowing the seed tubers to remain out in the 
open and on the ground until they are quite green or almost black, and 
then they are thought to be hardier for wintering and planting again ; 
we have known great quantities of fine Potatoes spoiled through doing 
this, as strong sunshine blisters and softens them, and then they will 
not keep. 
Autumn Turnips.— These are now growing fast, and they must have 
timely attention in thinning. From the time the first four rough leaves 
are formed they should never touch each other. Our latest batch has 
just been thinned to 3 inches apart ; in a week or so they will be thinned 
again to 6 inches, and finally to 1 foot apart, and after each thinning the 
hoe should be run between the rows. 
Winter Radishes. —A large patch of these should now be sown. The 
best variety for winter use is the China Rose. We always have this 
variety in fine condition from October until April, and we do not grow 
any other. The seed may be sown after any Potato, Pea, Bean or other 
crop. The rows should be 1 foot apart. Sow thinly, and thin out the 
plants when large enough to 3 inches apart. 
Runner Leans. —These are now in full bearing, and where the pro¬ 
duce exceeds the demand the pods should be gathered when about half 
grown and salted in jars for the winter. We annually about this time 
preserve some bushels of them, and find them most acceptable during the 
winter. The process of salting is quite simple, and is done by placing 
layer after layer of the Beans or pods in the earthenware jars with a 
little salt on each layer until the jar is full, when it is corked and made 
airtight. 
Endive and Lettuce. —More seed of those may be sown, and any 
plants large enough for handling should be planted in their bearing 
quartert. As they may have some backward weather to contend with in 
late autumn and winter their position should be a sunny one, such as 
that afforded on a south border. The rows should be 1 foot or so apart, 
and the plants 8 or 10 inches asunder. 
Celery. —Many of these plants require earthing up, and for the next 
month or more the best of attention must be paid to the crop. Good 
Celery is always appreciated in winter, and no labour should be spared 
which will produce it.- The best plants can easily be spoiled through 
careless or negligent earthing, the main point being to prevent the 
slightest particle of the soil from finding its way into the centre of the 
plants. This, however, will seldom occur if one person holds the plants 
while another banks up the soil ; or a piece of matting tied firmly round 
each until earthing is finished answers the same purpose. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Figs —Early-forced Trees in Pots.— When these have been cleared of 
the second crop of fruit the foliage shohld be thoroughly cleansed from 
red spider and dust by the free use of the garden engine. A soaking of 
tepid liquid manure may be given to the roots, and if the roots at the 
surface become exposed a little short manure may be laid on them 
as protection. After destroying all insects, which must be effected, if 
necessary, by the use of an insecticide, a rather dry warm atmosphere 
with free ventilation is best calculated to effect the complete maturation 
of the wood intended to produce fruit next season. Fig trees in this 
stage are benefited by a reasonable amount of heat, and with this the 
young shoots may be allowed to make growth whilst the glass is over 
the trees, but when the foliage shows signs of going to rest the roof 
lights should be removed. 
Planted-out Trees. —Where Fig trees are planted out for filling large 
houses the roots should be restricted and the borders thoroughly drained. 
Surface or stem roots should be encouraged by surface mulching, as the 
best results are obtained when the trees root into rough moist calcareous 
matter, as that of old wall rubbish kept well supplied with liquid manure 
through the growing season ; but though the Fig is a gross feeder and 
will take large supplies of water, a water-logged sour soil is even more 
fatal to the crop than the want of water, as in the latter case the roots 
may be abundant in materials that are not very dry. 
Strawberries in Pots. —All plants that are potted and are growing 
fast must be well supplied with water, keeping them free from runners 
and weeds, and the plants should be thinned out if they are at all 
crowded, it being important to accord the foliage room for development 
with full exposure to light and air, and do not change the position of 
the plants, but keep the same side to the sun throughout the season. If 
worms are troublesome dislodge them with lime water, free the drainage 
if it has become clogged, and stand the pots on slates or boards. 
Unpotted Plants— From observations extending over many years 
we have invariably found the plants that are moved into their fruiting 
pots early in August are the best fruiters, doing better than those trans¬ 
ferred to those pots a fortnight or three weeks earlier, as, from making 
and ripening an early growth, they are often influenced by a warm 
and moist autumn to start into second growth, which, if not fatal to a 
good show of fruit after being introduced to heat, is more or less wasteful 
of the energies of the plant and disastrous to the ensuing crop. All 
plants should be transferred to their fruiting pots with as little further 
delay as possible, but any weakly plants should be left attached to the 
