148 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 16, 1883. 
parents until they are well rooted, when they should be potted, and every 
possible encouragement given them. In potting, the size of the pots 
should be proportioned to the condition of the plants, strong plants 
requiring more root space than those that are only moderately vigorous. 
Autumn Fruiters .—Plants that have been retained for autumn fruiting 
should be taken to a warm sheltered situation, encouraging a fruiting 
condition as the requirements demand. Any that have the fruit set and 
swelling should be encouraged with liquid manure, and when the fruit 
gives indications of colouring it will be greatly improved in flavour if 
the plants can be accommodated in a light airy position in a cool house, 
being careful to exclude birds by netting over the apertures. Later 
batches of plants should be still kept in cool quarters, so as to continue 
the succession, transferring them at intervals to warm sheltered situations 
preparatory to accommodating them under glass when the cold autumn 
rains set in. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Roman Hyacinths .—Where these are appreciated as early in the 
season as it is possible to obtain them, no time should be lost in having 
a number potted. For purposes of decoration five bulbs placed in 5-inch 
pots are the most useful for the majority of purposes. In addition to 
these, where baskets and vases of various shapes have to be filled with 
plants, it is a good plan to place a number thickly together in pans or 
boxes, and then lift them out as they are required. The pots should not 
be overcrocked for these bulbs, one fair-sized piece placed at the bottom 
being ample. The soil should be light yet rich, and nothing beiDg 
better than a mixture of old potting soil, good loam, leaf soil, and 
a little coarse sand. In potting place a little dry cow manure over the 
crocks, and just leave the top of the bulbs above the soil. After potting 
place them outside and cover them with 3 or 4 inches of ashes. 
For succession pot another batch in about three weeks, and in a few 
weeks afterwards the main stock can be potted. These, after they are 
taken out of the ashes, can be forwarded or retarded at will. The last 
batch should be potted late in October, and will be found most valuable, 
as no Hyacinths are so useful to supply flowers for cutting. 
Large-flowering Hyacinths for Early Forcing .—Two of the earliest 
are La Tour d’Auvergne, double white, and Homerus, single red. The 
former is about three days earlier than the latter, and is one of the most 
valuable that can be grown. It produces a good spike and large double 
pure white bells, which are useful for bouquet and buttonholes. The 
last-named is only valuable on account of its earliness and of the useful 
side shoots, which are generally and freely produced. For general pur¬ 
poses it is not one of the best, because its colour fades very soon after 
the flowers are fully expanded. There is no difficulty in having these 
two Hyacinths in full bloom before Christmas without hard forcing if 
the bulbs are obtained as early as possible. The remarks given about 
potting Roman Hyacinths apply with equal force to these. 
Narcissi .—Where these are appreciated pot them without delay, 
placing five or six bulbs into a 6-inch pot, and treat them as advised for 
Hyacinths. Paper White and double Roman are both very useful f( r 
early flowering, and will with little trouble yield abundance of flowers. 
The single flowers are valuable when wired for bouquets. It is generally 
believed that the Paper White is the earliest of all Narcissus, but the 
double Roman is fully ten days earlier. These can be succeeded by 
States General and Newton, the best of the yellows, and then Grand 
Monarque and Grand Primo will follow. 
Early Single Tulips .—Where these are in demand as early as they 
can be produced they should be potted as soon as they can be ob¬ 
tained, which is in most instances towards the end of this month. The 
varieties of I)uc Van Thol are the earliest, and the scarlet one is much 
superior to any other ; it is sweet, a good flower, and the earliest of all. 
A few of the yellow and white may be potted for early forcing, but they 
are poor in comparison with the scarlet. Canary Bird, yellow, and White 
Pottebakker are two of the best that can be grown to succeed the few 
yellow and white Due Van Thols used for early forcing. The flowers of 
the two last named are grand for bouquets when about half expanded. 
Four bulbs of these should be placed in a 4-inch pot when used for early 
work. A good plan, and by far the most preferable where these are 
required for decorative purposes in dwelling rooms, is to place the bulbs 
in pans or boxes and then lift them when forced into flower, and make 
up pots according to the size required. Early in the season these bulbs 
often flower irregularly, and it is difficult to obtain creditable pots ot 
Tulips without this system is adopted. It should not be carried out 
when the season has fairly well advanced. 
Lilium candidvm .—This is the most useful and beautiful of all Lilies 
for cultivation in pots to flower in the spring. A good batch should 
now be obtained and placed in 6-inch pots without delay. Good loam, 
a seventh of manure, and sand will suit them well. After potting stand 
them outside, and in a very short time they will commence producing 
foliage and roots. They can stand outside until the approach of cold 
nights, when they should have a temperature of 45° to 50° at night. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Sowing Annuals for flowering in Spring .—There are several kinds 
of hardy annuals available for growing in the flower garden in spring, 
and which, grouped in conjunction with a few perennials, are really 
more pleasing than the summer occupants of the beds. The time 
for sowing depends upon the position, some gardens being fully a 
fortnight earlier than others in the same locality. As a rule sowing is 
deferred too long, and the seedlings resulting are not sufficiently strong 
to stand through a severe winter. The first to be sown are the white 
and rose forms of Silene pendula compacta, which in late districts or 
gardens ought already to be growing. Those, therefore, who have not 
sown ought to sow in handlights or boxes and cover with glass, taking 
care to harden and prick out before the seedlings become drawn and 
weakly. Eschscholtzias in variety should be similarly treated, or they 
will be too late to be serviceable. About the middle of this month sow 
Saponaria calabrica and the white variety, also the white, crimson, and 
purple Candytufts, Gypsophila elegans, and Alyssum maritimum. At the 
end of this month Venus’s Looking-glass. Nemophila insignia, Lim- 
nanthes Douglassii, Lastbenia califoruica, Collinsia bicolor, Calandrinias- 
speciosa and umbellata should also be sown. A light soil is necessary, 
and an open yet sheltered spot should be selected. Sow thinly in 
shallow drills drawn about 10 inches apart. To check the ravages of 
slugs dust the plants with soot and slaked lime when the dew is on them. 
Street Williams, Wallflowers, and Myosotis .—Seedlings and rooted 
cuttings of these should be pricked off or bedded out before they 
become crowded. All are serviceable and effective when grown on 
sheltered borders, more especially for providing flowers for cutting, 
and in these positions they are much more hardy than when disposed 
in the flower beds. A light rich soil best suits them, and they may be 
pricked out in rows 6 inches apart and about 6 inches asunder, every 
other row and every other plant in the reserved rows being eventually 
lifted with a trowel and replanted in the flower garden. 
East Lothian and Brompton Stocks and double German Wallflowers 
may be pricked out in a manner similar to the preceding. In the case of 
the former, half of the stock may well be potted during September, or 
planted out in frames or warm well-drained borders to flower during the 
winter. None of them will succeed in cold badly drained positions. 
Seedlings of any kind when first pricked out are liable to be damaged 
during bright sunshine, and should be lightly shaded with branches of 
trees or evergreens, and watered occasionally during the evenings till 
established. 
Newly planted Trees and Shrubs .—Many of those transplanted during 
the winter and spring months with small balls of soil attached must Etill 
be closely examined, as if dry the trees will make no progress and may 
yet die. If the old soil prove dry remove that near the stem so as to 
form a basin, then pierce the ball with a sharp iron rod, and repeatedly 
soak with pond water if available. Shrubs, more especially Rhodo¬ 
dendrons and Belgian Azaleas, that have been transplanted from a peaty 
soil to a site in which loam prevails, are particularly liable to perish 
before becoming established. Any of these presenting a sickly yellow 
appearance should be examined, and if the soil around the roots prove 
very dry lift and soak them in a tub of water, and replant as firmly 
as possible in a compost consisting principally of either peat or good 
leaf soil. On the other hand, if sickly owiug to the old soil being 
too wet and sour, it i 3 advisable to nearly free the roots of this and 
replant in good gritty and peaty compost. 
HIVE-CONSTRUCTION, HONEY-PRODUCING, AND 
PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT OF BEES.—No. 1. 
In penning a few notes on each of the alove subjects the 
writer is aware that he enters on debatable ground, and that 
what new light he may be able to let in will be taken for exactly 
what it is worth and no more. This is as it should be; so while 
endeavouring to add to the knowledge sought after by all earnest 
bee-keepers, it is desirable to bear in mind a few important 
facts in considering the construction of a bar-frame hive. 
First, then, it is impossible for anyone, be his experience 
ever so great, to design a hive that will be equally well suited to- 
all the various conditions under which it may be worked. 
Locality, pasture and season, as well as the capacity of the 
apiarian, his system of management, and his opportunities of 
carrying that system out, all exercise such an influence over 
Anal results that to attempt to lay down a fixed rule is simply 
impossible. It will be acknowledged that of late years a 
wonderful impetus has been given to the art of bee-keeping, 
and the various associations established throughout the country 
have done excellent work in spreading abroad information on 
the subject. So general has been the interest taken in the 
work of these associations, and so rapidly the knowledge 
acquired, that most of the feats of Wildman and others in the 
olden time, which were then considered little short of miracles, 
can now be performed by numerous experts, while the manipu¬ 
lating tents at the various shows have probably done more than, 
anything else in arousing a desire for apiarian knowledge 
among those who have witnessed the ease with which bees can 
be handled by the skilled bee-master. 
The first exhibition at which the manipulation of living 
bees was made a sqiecial feature was that held at the Crystal 
Palace in 1874, and we well remember the surprise with which 
the operations were watched by a crowd of astonished spectators. 
