Aiigust 30, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
177 
gardeners who are not Orchid-growers is by itself sure to pre¬ 
vent success. The young growths come from the base. If the 
base be covered the eyes push weakly. At any rate the new 
growths are pushed up the stem from buds that would other¬ 
wise have remained dormant, and such very seldom indeed pro¬ 
duce vigorous growth. Plants so treated get weaker yearly, even 
though other conditions be right. A layer of green growing moss 
is almost an essential in successful Orchid culture. When the 
bases of the pseudo-bulbs are kept clear of the surface, as is 
absolutely necessary in the case of most Orchids, the roots start 
above the surface. This is the right place for them to start, 
and where they always do in nature. If the surface of the pot 
is covered with dead matter, however, the roots will hardly enter 
it; indeed, such will likely be covered with slimy matter, and 
when the roots touch it they will decay. When the surface is 
growing sphagnum the roots enter it readily and branch in all 
directions. 
Dendrobium nobile neither wants to be soaking wet when 
growing, nor parchingly dry when resting. A healthy moisture 
is the best state for the material at all stages. When pots ai’e 
full of roots it is easy watering. A little too much is not inju¬ 
rious,especially when the plants are exposed to plenty of light 
and air ; but when the material is in too great quantity and the 
roots too few, when the tops are shaded and the air still and 
moist, watering becomes a task needing no common skill.—A. H. 
FOBCING KIDNEY BEANS. 
Those who have to maintain a perpetual supply of French Beans 
will soon need to be preparing for their late autumn and early winter 
crops. November is a very important month in most large establish¬ 
ments. Outdoor Beans, if not then cut off by frost, are either tough 
or tasteless, and the change from a plentiful supply of the choicest 
vegetables to one of scarcity is not a pleasant one to contemplate. 
The first or second week in September is a good time to make a 
first sowing, and there is nothing gained by adopting half measures 
and sowing outside or in makeshift sort of frames, as plants brought 
on this way, even if sown a month earlier, do nek flourish as well as 
those which are sown in heat and grown well at once. Most of 
the French Beans which I see forced are too much starved. They 
are either crowded too closely together or they have not a sufficiency 
of soil, and consequently the Beans are not so good as those which 
are produced outside in summer. If well grown the French Bean is 
considerably improved by forcing, and even at midwinter it may be 
said to be of superior quality to those which are produced in an 
average garden at midsummer ; but to secure this quality it must be 
grown quickly and vigorously in a very light house and without 
insects. 
To half fill an 8-inch pot and insert three to five beans in the hand¬ 
ful of soil it contains, to place the said pot on a high and dry shelf, and 
then do all you can to wash the nutriment out of the soil by watering 
it once or twice every day, is a prolific way of growing red spider, but 
it is not the system best calculated to produce a plentiful supply of 
good succulent Beans. If pots must be used at all they should be 
filled to within an inch of the iim at first, for it is important to get 
a good strong start, and as heavy retentive soil cannot be used, some 
good manure should be placed in the bottom of the pots and pressed 
down rather firmly, so that the water cannot run away too quickly. 
Beans do not emit roots from the stems when earthed up, and although 
when they are starved out at the bottom of the pot some of the roots 
find their way upwards, and also some of the manurial properties of 
the soil may be washed downwards, yet the plants do not, I think, 
get as much support from surfacing as is generally supposed. 
But I have not used pots for this purpose for many years, and 
should never think of using them again, for I have found there are 
great advantages in having a good mass of soil. It does not get 
washed out so quickly for one thing, and perhaps that is the principal 
advantage. For supplying a rather large establishment I have found 
that sowing six or eight boxes about every three weeks and keeping 
them in a good light position would yield a continuous supply, say a 
couple of dishes a week all through the winter and spring. The 
boxes are 32 inches long, 12 inches wide outside, and 8 inches deep 
inside. A layer of half-decayed dung is spread on the bottom about 
a couple of inches thick, and the remaining space is filled with rather 
rich material slightly lighter than that which would be suitable for 
ordinary bedding plants. If new loam can be had it may be used, 
and old Mushroom-bed refuse, or something similar, in equal pro¬ 
portions, and it will suit them perfectly ; but my French Beans have 
not had the luxury of new loam, and to make amends for that 1 have 
added a little stronger manure, say an eighth part of soil from a dry 
earth closet and a pinch of bone dust. 
The boxes after being filled are placed in the house (or if it is 
hot sunny weather they will do in a good position outside), a day or 
two before sowing to get the soil thoroughly aired and warmed, and 
then about a dozen beans are sown along the centre of each. “ What 
a waste of space and soil ! ” your economical man will say, but I have 
seen both ways tried, and have proved that we get greater weight 
and better quality from the liberal treatment I recommend than from 
the starvation plan. 
As it is all-important to keep them growing vigorously through¬ 
out their existence a little extra stimulant is given before flowering 
commences. If I had the washings from a cattle shed I should 
prefer that, but in the absence of liquid manure I give a slight dress¬ 
ing of Standen’s or Crown Manure, a level tablespoonful being ample 
for each box. A few twigs are placed along each side of the row to 
keep the plants from falling about, and they very soon reach the 
sides of the box, and the twigs are hidden. Osborn’s Forcing is the 
variety preferred. I tried the new Ne Plus Ultra, but although it is 
a very good Bean, equally early and rather larger, it is also rather 
taller, and that is an objection. I daresay those who grow their 
supply in pots, and consequently not so vigorously, would like this 
Bean very much. 
The French Bean requires a night temperature not lower than 
60°, and when well supplied at the root it revels in a sun temperature 
of 90° to 95°.— Wm. Taylor. 
PHYLLOXERA AT ASHTON COURT. 
In the Journal of August 23rd you give an account of Ashton 
Court, and remark that a letter had been received (along with samples 
of a pest that had been found in the roots) from Mr. Austen. This you 
say is nothing less than the dreaded phylloxera. It would be extremely 
interesting to all connected with Grape-growing if Mr. Austen would 
say if he had received young Yines or cuttings from anyone within the 
last year or two. If he has not it must be thought that the phylloxera 
is capable of spreading itself without being actually conveyed on the 
Vine. This is a point of much interest, and I hope Mr. Austen will 
kindly say if he can accouut for the introduction of this dreaded pest, 
or if he thinks it has been conveyed by other means than the transfer 
of Yines or Vine cuttings. It has hitherto been the comfort of many 
Vine-growers that the phylloxera can only be spread by means of the 
Vine ; but if it can transfer itself in a winged state, or by other plants 
than the Vine, to other places where Vines are grown, then the danger 
is increased a hundredfold. Any information that Mr. Austen can give 
on the matter will be much prized by—A Vine-Grower. 
USEFUL HABDY PLANTS. 
A few notes on some good herbaceous plants may be of interest, 
preference being given to those that are very effective or useful for 
cutting. 
Rudbeckias Newmanni and purpurea are in fine condition. The 
colour of the former is orange yellow with dark maroon centre, and 
the latter deep reddish purple with dark centre. They are amongst 
the most useful and effective hardy herbaceous plants either for the 
border or the shrubbery. Senecio pulcher has flowers borne on tall 
stems ; colour reddish purple with golden yellow centre. It blooms 
during the autumn months. 
Thalictrum adiantifolium—the foliage of this useful plant re¬ 
sembles Maidenhair Fern, and is very useful for cutting. The old 
Rockets seem to be coming into favour again. Like many other old 
plants they are useful for cutting. Aquilegias are valuable, being 
effective, light, and elegant for table decoration. A. chrysantha, 
A. glandulosa, and the beautiful hybrids A. californica hybrida and 
A. coerulea hybrida are amongst the most useful. 
Delphiniums are amongst the most stately of all herbaceous plants. 
There are dozens of beautiful varieties of different colours, but blue 
predominates. Verbascums are very showy plants ; they reproduce 
themselves very freely from seed, and they can be divided easily. 
Pyrethrum uliginosum, a very stately plant, growing to the height of 
5 or 6 feet, is very effective in the autumn. Large white flowers, 
yellow centre. Anthericum Liliastrum major does well in the borders, 
but prefers well-drained soil. It is also very effective as a pot plant 
for the conservatory. Flowers large, white, almost like a Lily, and 
fragrant. 
Potentillas are very useful. There are several beautiful varieties, 
but Le Vesuve is one of the best. Hemerocallis fiava is very good 
for forcing in pots for the conservatory. The Tigridias are not grown 
so much as they ought to be, their colours being brilliant. The 
individual flowers only last one day, but the stems produce a succes¬ 
sion of blooms. Geum coccineum plenum has bright scarlet flowers 
that last a long time. Helianthus multiflorus is very effective 
for the shrubbery border ; it increases very fast. Anemone japonica 
Honorine Jobert and the rose-coloured forms are very handsome. 
Campanula persicifolia alba and the double form are fine plants. 
Another good old plant is Anomatheca cruenta, a bulbous plant, which 
is best in a warm nook near a wall. If it is not disturbed it does not 
