September 6, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
201 
to enjoy air and scenery fully. To dwellers in the lowlands a posi¬ 
tion so snug and so highly favoured in natural advantages may appear 
merely an ideal one, but it is not so. Living amidst the Sussex hills 
I could point to similar nooks that are well known by the dozen, and 
which, strange to say, have been overlooked by builders of many pre¬ 
tentious villas which are perched in elevated positions exposed to 
every wind that blows, simply for the scenery, without a thought of 
aught else. Nor are the villa builders only at fault, for two large 
houses of recent construction within a couple of miles of each other 
might also be pointed to as equally faulty in situation, and the mis¬ 
take appears all the more glaring from the fact of really good posi¬ 
tions being available close by. 
Water .—This is generally abundant where hills and valleys 
abound, but it is not always so. Here on the Hastings Sand forma¬ 
tion we have a spring of excellent water high up on the hill full 
60 feet above the highest part of the garden, and in one of the 
Fig. 35. 
A. —Part section of cesspool. 
B. —Suction pipe, 11 feet long from bottom of pump, but which may be 
28 feet long. 
c.—Delivery pipe, 350 feet long and 1J inch internal diameter. 
D. —There is a stopcock here on the branch pipe which passes through the 
wall into the cesspool to empty the delivery pipe when not in use. 
E. —Cock for filling waterpots at pump. 
valleys there are actually fifteen springs, each with its tributary rill 
running into the main stream. In less favoured places water can 
almost always be obtained from the valley by means of an hydraulic 
ram, and it cannot therefore be said to so seriously affect the selection 
of a site as shelter and fertility of soil do. Due provision should, 
however, be made for an ample supply of water, and when storage 
has to be resorted to enough water may generally be obtained by 
putting gutters and pipes to catch the rain water on every part of 
the houses and outbuildings and convey it to open tanks or ponds— 
preferably to the latter ; for a pond is easily made, and the water 
may be distributed from it with as much expedition and economy 
as is possible under the circumstances by a moderate judicious outlay 
for its conveyance about the garden in the first instance. The 
rimitive method of taking it from the pond in waterpots can only 
e done economically for crops growing near it. For the entire 
garden a somewhat expensive, but undoubtedly the best, plan is to 
fix a force pump by the side of the pond to throw the water into a 
cistern sufficiently elevated for it to flow thence through a pipe to 
one or more cocks or hydrants fixed at the most convenient points 
of the garden ; and if leather hose with the requisite unions and jet 
is provided for watering, the apparatus will be complete. 
A much less expensive arrangement of a force pump and pipe, 
which has been in use here for several years for throwing up house 
sewage from a cesspool to the kitchen garden, is shown in fig. 35, 
and is, of course, equally applicable to a pond of water, for the suction 
pipe below the pump may be bent so as to n st upon the pond bottom 
and be continued to the deepest water. Particular attention must be 
given to the position of the pump, which should always be at the 
side of the cesspool or pond, so as to lessen as much as possible the 
labour of lifting the water through the pump and suction pipe. The 
pump in use here lifts the sewage vertically 14 feet, and forces it 
through a 1^-inch pipe 350 feet long to a height of 16 feet above D, 
fig. 35, where it falls into an open cis era. One man can do this so 
easily as to leave no doubt that the sewage might, if necessary, bo 
forced to a longer distance and much greater height if necessary. 
Sewage being wanted occasionally for plants growing close by the 
pump, a hole was drilled at E, and an ordinary stopcock screwed 
into it answered the purpose admirably. 
A, fig. 36, part of a transverse section of a pond with a raised 
bank, is given to show how by turning to account the excavated 
soil for raising the sides of the pond above the common level of 
the surrounding surface, the work of excavation and consequently 
the cost of the pond may be materially lessened. Due care must, 
however, be taken to make the puddle well, and to take it down 
well below the ground line, E, which usually proves the weak point 
of raised ponds. If the pond rests upon a loose substratum of 
shattered rock, gravel, sand, or chalk, the puddled clay must be 
continued as shown at d, so as to form an artificial bottom so 
thoroughly worked and kneaded together as to be absolutely inq er- 
vious to water.— Edward Luckhurst. 
(To be continued.) 
SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Most of the buds will now be taken to secure large flowers 
Those taken the first week in the present month will be about 
as large as small peas; these plants will require a top-dressing 
as I have before directed in this Journal. I use an admixture of 
rather heavy loam and half-decayed fowl manure. About a third 
of an inch of this is spread on the surface of the soil in each pot, 
The roots very soon take possession of this dressing, and in 
a week they appear quite through it, especially in dull or showery 
weather. In watering the top-dressed plants a rose should be 
used for the first two or three applications to settle the soil 
firmly on the surface. Where fowl manure is not obtainable 
sheep manure is a good substitute. Some use cow manure, which 
I think is too cold; it also has an untidy appearance when 
plastered over and about the tops of the pots; this is often 
done, nevertheless, in the south. Amies’ manure has a marked 
effect when used as a top-dressing, as also has Clay’s Fertiliser; 
these are obtainable when the others sometimes are out of reach. 
B 
Fig. 36. 
A. —Surface of pond. 
B. —Pond bank raised above the common level, E. 
C. —Puddled clay. 
d. —Additional puddled clay at the bottom of the pond when it is on gravel, 
sand, or chalk. 
E. —Surface of land surrounding pond bank. 
Some growers prefer guano, but in my opinion it should not be 
used until the end of October or first week in November. 
Another good fertiliser is clear soot water. Where flowers are 
wanted to be forwarded, if this is used twice or three times a week 
moderately strong with the dressing I advised above, the buds 
will swell with marvellous rapidity. The dressing should be 
repeated at the latter end of September. 
For trained specimens I find Clay's Fertiliser invaluable. 
These plants are difficult to dress with anything more than can 
