September G, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
215 
prevent useless growth, to accelerate bud-development and wood-ripening. 
Discontinue stopping lateral growth, for it will only induce an untimely 
growth of spray that cannot reach maturity from buds which should be 
made as plump as possible in readiness for an early and robust spring 
growth. Carefully consider how many buds it is desirable to add to 
each spur, and then, instead of cutting off the lateral at the required 
point, twist it carefully slightly above the point of severance, and bend 
it downwards, leaving it so till winter ; and then, when pruning, the buds 
below the twist will, though dormant, be plump and full, in striking 
contrast to the half-developed buds of useless autumn spray. Remove 
netting and tiffany from the trees as soon as the fruit is picked, so that 
there may be no obstruction to the air and sunshine. 
Insects .—Without healthy foliage it will be useless to expect a full 
crop of fruit next year. Leaves of Peaches or Nectarines damaged by red 
spider cannot elaborate sap sufficiently for the requirements of the wood, 
which on infested trees is usually so weakly that when growth ceases 
the buds are quite unfit for the production of wood or fruit. This debility 
is also undoubtedly a cause of bud-shedding in spring. See, therefore, 
that any appearance of red spider induced by the recent hot dry weather 
is promptly met by a free use of the syringe, taking especial care to 
force the water well under the leaves. 
Watering .—A hot dry September ripens the wood, gives finish and 
flavour to fruit, crowns the current year with success, and does much for 
the crop of next year. But for the trees to derive full benefit from it 
there must be no parched soil about the roots, watering must be closely 
attended to, and if the drainage be sound and thorough there need be 
very little fear of overwatering. 
Fruit-gathering .—Look over ripening fruit frequently, especially 
■early autumn Pears and Apples, many of which ripen quickly and soon 
spoil if left too long upon the trees. Remove overhanging leaves from 
■contact with the fruit of late Peaches and Nectarines to obtain high- 
celoured fruit. Brunswick Figs are so much more luscious and tempting 
when fully ripe and with the skin splitting before gathering, that the 
trees should either be covered with hexagon netting or muslin bags put 
over each fruit as it become fully grown. Wasps are very fond of this 
Fig, and they are so numerous just now that no fruit is safe without 
some such protection. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Pines. —Potting Hooted Suckers .—Suckers obtained from the stools 
of the successive fruiting plants and potted about the middle of July, 
will, if treated as previously advised, be now in a fit condition for 
shifting into larger pots ; but before this is done it is well to consider 
what the future requirements are likely to be, so that there may not be 
any surplus stock, as it is very important that the plants retained have 
every advantage of as much room as their wants require. It is advisable 
to divide the plants into two sections—viz., first, the strongest Queen 
plants and others, putting these into the fruiting pots at once, placing 
them in a close light pit about 2 feet asunder, and the surface of the bed 
in which they are plunged not being more than 3 feet from the glass. The 
heat at the base of the pots should be 95°, the night temperature kept at 
70° to 75°, 75° by day from artificial heat and advancing from 80°, at 
which a little ventilation should be given, to 90° from sun heat, and at 
this close the house when the sun’s power begins to lessen, giving a light 
syringing two or three times a week. Watering will need great care 
until the roots are growing freely in the fresh material. 
The second section of plants comprises the smaller ones, selecting the 
requisite quantity and discarding the remainder. These should be placed 
into pots 6 to 8 inches in diameter according to their size, giving them 
moderate heat to insure a steady and sturdy growth, and be in good 
condition in spring for shifting into the fruiting pots early in spring. 
These will form a succession to those above referred to. A temperature 
at the roots of 80° will be ample for these plants, the night temperature 
C0°, and 70° by day, advancing to 80° or 85° from sun heat, ventilating 
freely on all favourable occasions. 
Cucumbers. —Planting Winter Fruiters .—The plants from the 
sowing made the second week in August will now be ready for plant- 
iny out in hillocks or ridges, or transferring to pots or boxes. They will 
need to be supported with sticks fastened to the first wire of the trellis. 
If the weather be sunny shade for a few hours at midday until the 
plants become established, when it should be discontinued, and water 
must be given with great care. The young plants should be stopped 
when they have reached the third wire, or about two-thirds of the allotted 
space. 
Treatment of iruiting Plants .—These will require examining fre¬ 
quently in order to effect the needful stopping, thinning, and removing 
of superfluous growths and fruits, tying and regulating the shoots, the 
object being to keep up a succession of fruitful wood. Close early in 
the afternoon, damping the house at the same time. Fire heat will be 
necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 65° or 60° at night. 
Plants in Pits and Frames .—Damping plants in pits or frames 
heated by fermenting materials should be discontinued, as the moisture 
given out by the materials will be sufficient, and watering should be 
done without wetting the foliage more than can be helped. If mildew 
appear dust thoroughly with flowers of sulphur, keeping the foliage dry, 
and ventilate freely. The linings will need to be seen to regularly to 
maintain the requisite heat of the beds. 
Melons. — Late-fruiting Plants .—The latest plants have set their 
fruit, and should have a warm, rather dry, and freely ventilated at¬ 
mosphere, the blossoms being impregnated daily until a sufficient number 
of fruits are set on a plant, when all the remaining flowers should be 
removed. Stop one joint beyond the fruit, and keep subsequent growths 
closely pinched to one joint as made ; and if this has a tendency to 
crowd the principal foliage, the laterals so interfering therewith should 
be removed, but care should be taken not to make great reductions of 
foliage at one time, removing the unnecessary parts gradually. When 
the fruit is swelling freely earth-up the roots, feed copiously with weak 
tepid liquid manure, and maintain a moist genial atmosphere by damp¬ 
ing two or three times a day, and on bright afternoons the plants may 
be moderately syringed overhead. The night temperature should be 
maintained at 65° to 70°, 75° by day, advancing to 85° or 90° from sun 
heat, with a little ventilation at 80°, increasing it with the sun heat. 
Close at 80°, and so that the heat will rise 10° to 15°. If mildew appear 
dust with flowers of sulphur, and keep rather drier and more freely 
ventilated. Black aphides, or aphides of any kind, are best subdued by 
careful fumigation. If canker appear rub quicklime into the affected 
parts, and repeat as necessary. Afford supports to the fruit before they 
become very heavy. 
Fruit-ripening .—The present weather is not favourable to the 
production of highly flavoured fruits, especially in the case of those in 
pits or frames solely heated by fermenting materials. The heat generated 
by fermenting materials is moist, but is not therefore useless in expelling 
damp, as by its aid the ventilation can be freer, and a circulation of 
warm air, if it does not dry the atmosphere, reduces the evils of damp to 
a minimum. Moisture must be used in any form now very sparingly, 
and if it be absolutely necessary at the roots to prevent flagging, it 
should be given without wetting the foliage. Keep the laterals well in 
hand and the foliage thinned, so as to admit as much light and air as 
possible. Attend well to the linings, and admit a little air constantly. 
Canker must be subdued by rubbing quicklime into the affected parts. 
After the close of the month Melons from pits and frames are not of 
much value, but the case is different with those in light well-heated 
structures, as well-swelled and fairly flavoured fruit can be had until a 
late period of the season—even into November or later. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gesneras .—These are the most satisfactory when standing upon some 
moisture-holding material, where they receive a little warmth from 
beneath, and the atmosphere in which they are growing not overcharged 
with moisture. If they have been properly treated they will now be 
growing strongly, and should be placed in the pots in which they are 
intended to flower. Any moderately light soil suits them well in which 
a fair per-centage of leaf soil and coarse sand has been intermixed, pots 
5 or 6 inches in diameter being large enough. After potting keep them 
close for a time and water them carefully at their roots, but when 
thoroughly established give them weak stimulants, nothing being better 
than clear soot water. Do not syringe these plants. 
Gloxinias .—Seedling plants that are now growing in 2 or 3-inch 
pots and have not been checked will, if placed in 4 and 5-inch pots 
and liberally treated, make fine flowering plants in autumn. These 
plants delight in a rich compost, but will, nevertheless, succeed very 
satisfactorily in almost any soil. Place these plants in a warm pit or 
on a shelf close to the glass, and water carefully, but when established 
never allow them to suffer from insufficient supplies. A batch of old 
plants that flowered early and have been rested for some time in a cold 
house can now be shaken out and repotted. These, with the application 
of heat and moisture, will soon start into growth ; and although they may 
not be so fine as when grown during the spring of the year, they will 
be found acceptable for the decoration of the stove and for cutting. 
Calceolarias .—Plants raised from seed sown as advised some time 
ago, and pricked out singly into pans when large enough, should now 
be ready for placing into 2 and 3-inch pots. Use a light compost 
of fibry loam, leaf soil, a seventh of decayed manure, and coarse sand. 
Lift the plants out of the pans as carefully as possible with a small ball 
of earth attached to them, and pot them low in moderately drained pots. 
After potting give the plants a good watering, and stand them on a bed 
of ashes in a cold frame. Keep them close for a time and shade them 
from strong sun. Prick out successional batches into pans, placing them 
1 or 2 inches apart according to their size, and treat them exactly the 
same afterwards as the early batch. 
Cinerarias .—Where plants are grown to flower during November and 
December these should now be strong and well established in their 
flowering pots, and will need weak stimulants made from cow manure, 
and clear soot water will be found most beneficial, and should be given 
every alternate watering. Ventilate liberally, and shading should be 
gradually discontinued from this date. The second batch should now be 
in 6-inch pots, and so on in succession to the latest batch, which should 
now be ready for pricking out from the seed pan into others for flowering 
late next spring in small pots. Take care that these plants do not 
become root-bound until they are placed in their largest pots, or they 
flower prematurely, and only poor heads will be the result. A sharp 
look-out must be kept for green fly, and at its first appearance fumigate 
with tobacco paper. Syringe during the afternoon of bright days, and 
never allow the plants to suffer by the want of water at their roots. The 
material on which they are standing should be kept moist. 
Hydrangeas .—Cuttings in which the flower buds have formed should 
now be taken off and rooted, if neat, dwarf, well-bloomed plants are 
appreciated, in small pots for purposes of decoration during spring and 
early summer. These cuttings strike readily in a little heat if kept in 
a close frame or under handlights and shaded from the sun until they 
are rooted. Insert them singly in the centre of 3-inch pots, place a 
little sand for the base of the cuttings to rest upon. As soon as the 
cuttings are rooted gradually harden them and place them in a cold 
frame, all the attention needed afterwards until the time to start them 
