238 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 13, 1883. 
them by the bushel or hundredweight, as we have done in some years. 
The cold nights we are now experiencing are not favourable to their 
developing or maturing, and in many instances the fruit may show signs 
of decay. When this is the case the best way to save them is to cut the 
best off and hang them up in bundles in a warm room or glass house to 
ripen. When treated in this way they are not so good for salad, but 
they do very well for cooking or sauce. 
Mustard and Cress. —Throughout the summer and until now these 
have grown very well in the open, but now to insure a supply it is best 
to sow the seed iu a frame and under handlights. 
Harvesting Onions. —All spring-sown Onions are showing signs of 
ripening, and the whole of them should be lifted from the ground. Dry 
weather is always best for this, but the most has often to be made of 
them in the wet. The first operation should be to draw them out of the 
soil and lay them down on the surface of the ground. Here they may 
remain for a week or so to dry a little, and then they should be taken 
away and spread out in an open airy shed or on a dry pathway, and 
remain there until the stems are quite withered, when they may be 
cleaned and stored. In cleaning them the greater part of the stem 
should be twisted off, and the rough skins which may be quite loose 
about them may also be rubbed away. The soundest of the bulbs should 
be put together for keeping, and the others may be kept back for present 
and immediate use. 
Asparagus Plants. —Recent storms have blown these plants about 
very much, and this is always injurious to them, as it breaks many of the 
growths off by the bottom and damages the crowns. Where the stems 
have run up to a height of 8 feet or so they take a long time to mature in 
autumn, and to give them every advantage they should be kept staked 
and tied. Cleaning the surface over the roots should have every attention 
at this time, as when the ground is overgrown with weeds it is impossible 
that the crowns can ripen. The present work should be to prevent all 
stems from being damaged by the wind and making the surface as clean 
and open as possible. 
Sowing Cauliflower. —The seed of Early London and Veitch’s Autumn 
Giant Cauliflowers should be sown at once to produce plants which will 
be wintered in frames and planted out in spring to head before the 
spring-sown plants. The seed should be sown on a south border where 
the soil is good, and the rows may be from 9 inches to 1 foot apart. Care 
must be taken that the snails do not destroy the young plants just when 
they are coming through the soil, as they are very apt to do this with 
young plants at this season. 
Wet-weatlier Work. —Rainy days are now prevalent, and when they 
occur indoor work should be pushed forward. At such times seed Peas, 
Beans, &c., may be examined, cleaned, and stored in boxes or bags. 
Look over Potatoes to remove decaying tubers, and have sheds cleaned out 
and leaf soil or sand prepared to cover over Carrots, Beetroots, &c., when 
they are brought in. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines. — Pruning and Top-dressing. —The Vines which are to be 
started in November should be pruned without delay. Vines in good 
condition may be spurred-in to a couple of buds, as the breaks from these 
usually show medium-sized compact bunches, which set and swell off 
finer berries than bunches on shoots starting from strong young wood, 
which often gives loose bunches and an undesirable number of stoneless 
berries. If, however, young wood has been encouraged to displace spurs 
that have become weak and elongated, such should be cut back to plump 
eyes on well-ripened wood, and the breaks from these will be satisfactory 
providing means be adopted to insure the breaking of the eyes at the 
base of such growth by depressing the upper part when forcing is com¬ 
menced. The Vines should only have the loose bark removed, and should 
then be washed with soapy water, 8 ozs. soft soap to a gallon of water, 
and the woodwork washed with soap and water, and the glass thoroughly 
cleansed with water both inside and out. If painting be necessary it 
should be done at once—not upon a dirty but a clean-washed surface ; 
and if there has been any scale or mealy bug, thoroughly syringe the 
Vines and all woodwork and walls with paraffin, a wineglassful to 3 gallons 
of water, adding the same quantity in bulk of soft soap previously dis¬ 
solved in hot water. Keep it thoroughly mixed by sharp stirring with a 
stick whilst the petroleum solution is being applied, and repeat as soon 
as the Vines become dry. The Vines should have the solution applied to 
them with a brush so as to reach every crevice, the solution being kept 
stirred constantly whilst it is being applied. If the house has long been 
infested with mealy bug have the whole of the woodwork painted with 
spirits of turpentine, applying it well to every angle and crevice. The 
trellis should also be dressed with the same, and the walls also. Remove 
the surface soil, supplying fresh. If the roots do not require more than 
an ordinary top-dressing all loose mulchings should be removed after 
pruning, using in its place rich compost with a liberal admixture of 
bonedust pressed firmly, and complete with a couple of inches thickness 
of fresh horse droppings. Keep the house cool and dry until the time 
arrives for starting. 
Covering Outside Borders. —Those hitherto exposed to the influence of 
the weather should now be protected from heavy rain by covering with 
lights if they are obtainable, or shutters raised a foot or so above the 
surface, with a good fall to the front to throw off water. 
Vines in Pots for Early Forcing. —Cut these back to plump eyes on 
well-ripened growth, and dress the cuts with Thomson’s styptic or patent 
knotting, keeping in a cool dry place until wanted for forcing. If 
wanted to produce ripe Grapes in March or early April they should be- 
started not later than the 1st November—better a fortnight earlier, as 
they thrive best when brought on gently in the early stages of growth. 
Midseason or Succession Houses. —Any alterations or additions to the 
borders in these houses should be concluded as soon as possible. If the 
roots required lifting it should be done whilst the leaves are on the Vines, 
leaving any spray a little longer as an incentive to root-action ; but 
where lifting is not necessary remove every particle of young growths as- 
a means of plumping the buds and insuring the thorough maturation of 
the wood. Prune as soon as the leaves part freely from the wood, as a 
complete and long rest is highly beneficial. Ls.ter houses should have 
laterals and extensions shortened back to effect the plumping of the 
pruning buds, and to admit of the free admission of light and air. Free 
ventilation is essential on fine days with a little fire heat, if there be any 
doubt about the maturity of the wood, using it in the daytime only. It 
is no use expecting first-class Grapes from unripened wood. 
Late Grapes. —Grapes intended to keep through the winter must be 
ripe by the end of the month, or they will certainly shrivel in a short 
time after the fall of the leaves. If there be any doubt as to this employ 
fire heat steadily in the daytime, applying most on fine days, and shut it 
off on all but cold nights, when a little heat may be needed to keep the 
temperature from falling below 60°. A high night temperature weakens 
the Vines, as they require as much rest as can possibly be given them. 
Admit a little air constantly, and ventilate freely on all favourable 
occasions. Late houses of Hamburghs will colour well even in October ; 
but the Grapes, ripened as they must be by a greater extent of fire heat 
than is necessary if at all in September, do not keep nearly so well as 
those ripened when the sun has more power, as the skins are not only 
thinner, but the saccharine matter is not so highly developed. 
Young Vines. —Those that were planted in the spring or early summer 
months may be allowed to make all the growth they are disposed with a. 
view to extend the root-action and increase the vigour of the canes for 
some time longer; but any that are intended to fruit next season, and. 
have been allowed to make long rambling shoots, should have these 
gradually shortened with a view to plump the eyes on the canes, and 
conduce to the ripeniDg of the wood by a free admission of light and air. 
If the wood is not ripening kindly apply fire heat by day, with a free 
circulation of air. Keep the large or principal leaves free from 
insects, as it is essential that they be preserved in health until they fall 
naturally. 
Strawberries in Pots. — Autumn Fruiters. —Plants that are intended 
to fruit early next month will have set their fruit, and should now have 
them thinned and the plants placed near the glass or. shelves, and be fed 
liberally with liquid manure. Plants to come in later ought now or soon 
to be in flower. The chief thing to aim at is to get the fruit set whilst the 
weather is favourable, after which they can be advanced as they are 
required. 
Spring-fruiting Plants. —Remove all runners as they show, keeping 
the pots free from weeds and worms. Afford more space as the foliage 
expands, and keep a sharp look-out for the Strawberry maggot, which 
hides on the under side of the leaves, and ought to be destroyed, as it 
not only perforates the leaves now, but later on will perforate and feed 
on the flower buds, and render the plants blind. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Hyacinths. —Where these are wanted to flower early they should be 
ordered at once, if not already done, potted as soon as they arrive, 
and treated as directed in a former issue. To maintain a succession a 
Dumber of bulbs should be potted at intervals of a few weeks. Pota 
5 and 6 inches in diameter are ample for single bulbs, but they can be 
grown very successfully in a smaller size. Where larger pots are in 
request place three bulbs in 7-inch pots. For purposes of decoration 
many of the cheaper varieties are the best. In addition to Homerus, 
single red, and La Tour d’Auvergne, double white, recommended for 
early forcing, the following will be found good, cheap, and useful. 
Single whites—Albertine, Grande Vidette, Alba Maxima, Madame Van 
der Hoop, and Mont Blanc. The two first are admirable for early 
forcing, and can be brought into flower easier and earlier than any 
other single white varieties. Grande Vidette is remarkably dwarf, has a 
grand pyramidal spike which possesses very large pure white bells. 
Blush whites—Lord Wellington, Gigantea, and Grandeur 4 Merveille 
will be found three very good varieties. The first-named is the earliest, 
and can be brought into flower a few days before the two whites re¬ 
commended above if potted at the same time. Amongst single reds 
Von Schiller, Robert Steiger, and Macaulay are good, but none of 
these is so early as Homerus. To succeed, or even to flower with the 
second batch of that variety, a few bulbs of L’Ami du Coeur may be 
grown. It is early and bright, but the spike is small and puny in com¬ 
parison to others. Light blues—Charles Dickens, Grand Lilas, and 
Grande Vidette are amongst the most serviceable. The former is the 
earliest of the Hyacinths, and one of the best and most useful that 
can be grown. It scarcely ever fails to produce an immense spike, anci 
often as many as three. The last-named of the three is in the style of 
Grand Lilas, but has larger bells. Amongst dark blues Argus is the 
earliest, followed by that free and best of all Hyacinths for decorative 
purposes, Baron Van Tuyll. General Havelock, deep purple shaded 
black, is also good, and well worth a place. The yellow varieties are 
not very serviceable, and a few bulbs only should be grown in com¬ 
parison to other varieties enumerated. Bird of Paradise and Due de 
