240 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 13, 1883 
it is impossible to determine whether the awards were in accordance with 
the terms of the schedule. The wording (“best collection of cut flow'eis, 
twelve bunches, distinct varieties ”) is clear enough—that is, any collection 
in that class must consist of twelve bunches of flowers and twelve varieties, 
and if the “four sorts” shown by T were species and not varieties his 
collection, according to the strictly botanical meaning of the word “variety, 
could not be admitted. On the other hand, if they were varieties of one or 
more species, and in other respects the collection was superior to those 
staged by B and E, he was undoubtedly entitled to the first,prize. Employing 
the word “varieties” has evidently been misleading, and it might have been 
advantageously omitted. B, again, had more than twelve varieties, and 
would therefore not be within the terms of the schedule, while E seems to 
be the only one who has exactly complied wuth the stipulation. 
Fuchsia procumbens (H. J. G .).—This pretty species grows, flowers, 
and usually fruits freely enough in a cool house, and as you do not state 
where the plant is growing we can only conclude that you have it in an 
unsuitable position. Undoubtedly the fact of fruit not setting is due to 
inefficient fertilisation, but in the absence of definite particulars it is difficult 
to assign a reason for this defect. Perhaps the plants have been kept too 
warm or too damp. 
Gardener Leaving his Situation (J. S .).—We are not av ? are that the 
precise question you submit has been decided in a court of law. . under 
the circumstances you name the gardener would act. wisely by giving a 
month’s notice; but whether he could be legally dismissed with less notice 
is a point on which a solicitor should be consulted if necessary. 
Vines Unsatisfactory (G. E.). —It is not at all unlikely that the inside 
border has been too dry, and that, in connection with a moist and rather close 
atmosphere and low temperature, would have a tendency to cause the leaves 
to shrivel under the bright sun of the past month. It is certain, too, con¬ 
sidering the condition of the foliage, that the Muscat Vine is overcropped, 
and probably the others are also. You had better examine the border and 
roots. If the soil is at all dry water it thoroughly, and if active surface 
roots are not plentiful remove a portion of the old and add fresh soil, making 
it moderately firm and keeping it constantly moist. 
Roses for Wall (N. P.).— As you name Lamarque we presume your 
situation is favourable, but many districts are too cold for this Rose. .Where 
it will flourish so also will Marechal Niel and Climbing Devoniensis. To 
these we should add Reine Marie Henriette, Cheshunt Hybrid, and Gloire 
de Dijon. Those we have named will flourish in a position even more 
shaded than that indicated in your letter. 
Potato Disease Records (Pen and Ink ).—We doubt if you will find 
anything more suitable for your purpose than the illustrated articles in 
the back numbers of this Journal — namely, Nos. 603, 604, and 747, the 
issues of October 17th and 24th, 1872, and July 22nd, 1875. These numbers 
can be had from the publisher for 3£<f. each. You might also with.advan¬ 
tage procure Mr. Bravender’s work, “ The Potato Disease, and how to 
Prevent It,” published at 81, Great Queen Street, London. We do not 
remember the price, but it is not more than two or three shillings. 
Judging Culinary Apples (Dublin Subscriber). —All the Apples you 
name are equally eligible for competition, and none of them could properly 
be disqualified on the plea of their not being ripe, unless ripeness is. especially 
enjoined in the schedule, which is not usual in connection with culinary fruit. 
Hexagonal Netting (A. F. M .).—The netting of which you have sent a 
sample is obviously of no use for excluding wasps, being too coarse. An 
article of much closer manufacture is essential, and most good nurserymen, 
seed merchants, or dealers in horticultural requisites can send samples of 
different sizes, and these are usually obtained before a quantity is purchased. 
There is plenty of this netting manufactured through which wasps cannot 
pass, and it is only by using such and fixing it securely that the pests can be 
excluded. Ask the firm that supplied you if they cannot send you finer— 
that is, much more closely woven samples. 
Twin Dahlia (Mrs. V .).—Such monstrosities as that you sent frequently 
occur in Dahlias and other plants, but it is impossible to determine the cause 
where it does not arise from injury to the flower-bud when young. In the 
case of the flower sent it appears more like fasciation than absolute 
deformity, as the two peduncles can be distinctly traced up to the point 
where they separate and form two heads. It would seem as if two flower- 
buds were so closely placed together that as they advanced in growth the 
tissue united and continiied to develope in that way until the flowering 
stage was reached, when the growth of the heads forced them asunder again. 
Liliums not Expanding (E. N.). —We have grown Liliums both with 
peat and without it, and have found it a valuable addition to some soils, 
while others it has not materially improved. Whether it is required in 
your soil we have no means of judging; but with good turfy loam not too 
heavy, decayed vegetable refuse, gritty matter, such as coarse sand or 
crushed charcoal, Lilium3 ought to grow and flower well if they are properly 
treated. Many failures occur from late potting or planting, as if the bulbs 
are too much dried they are apt to produce stem roots only, few or none 
issuing from the bulb. In this case, unless the stem roots are top-dressed 
and the plants are carefully watered, neither the growth nor flowers would 
be satisfactory. You do not say whether your plants are in pots or planted 
out, or whether the bulbs were newly imported or grown in your garden. 
Late-imported and much-dried bulbs often fail. 
“Black Blight” on Plants (George Pether). —The “ black blight ” on the 
leaves of your plants is caused by the excretion of insects, of which a fungus 
takes possession. The insects most likely to cause the “ black ” on the 
leaves of such plants as Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, and Fuchsias are 
aphides, and these are best destroyed by fumigation with tobacco paper, the 
foliage to be afterwards cleansed with water. When the cause is removed 
the black will not appear. The Fern is no doubt infested with scale, than 
for which we know of no better cure than syringing with a solution of 
petroleum—a wineglassful to three gallons of water. The oil should be kept 
thoroughly mixed by filling the syringe and forcing it sharply a few times 
into the watering pot, and then applying every alternate squirt into the 
liquid and the other over the plant, which should be laid on its side and 
turned round, so as to keep the petroleum from the roots and insure the 
wetting of the plant in every part. 
Steplianotis Fruiting (Idem). —It is not by any means a rare occurrence 
for Stephanotis to set and have fruit pods in this country. The pod will 
become ripe in due course, when the seeds should be separated from the 
pulp. They may be sown in sandy peat and placed in a stove temperature ; 
if there be bottom heat it will more speedily effect the germination of the 
seeds. When the plants appear place them near the glass, pot off when 
large enough, and shift into larger pots as required. In about three years 
the plants will be strong enough to flower. 
Size of Vine and Fruit Borders (R. C.). —As a rule a border of the same 
width of the house is more than ample, and this may be made in sections, 
adding a width of 2 or 3 feet yearly. With good soil and management 
excellent fruit, such as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Pears, may be 
grown in borders half the width that the trees are in height; or, in other- 
words, if a wall is 10 feet high, a border 5 feet wide properly made, and 
attended to is quite large enough for the trees in question. There is no 
Primula of the name you quote ; have you not made a mistake in reading: 
the label ? 
Sub-laterals of Vines Bearing (Sigma). —This is a good sign rather 
than otherwise, as the fruit denotes healthy Vines and matured wood. You 
had, however, better remove the bunches, as they will be of no use, yet 
exhaust the Vines needlessly. We are glad to heav of the great improve¬ 
ment in your Vines. It is a good plan to permit a free extension of lateral 
growth, but the principal leaves should not be shaded. It will be well 
probably to top the laterals where the Grapes are ripe, not, however, re¬ 
moving any great quantity of growth, as the chief point to attend to now is 
the maturation of the wood. 
Alicante Grapes Shanked (J. W. Hill). —The berries you sent us are 
much shanked. Shanking is a result of defective root-action, which may be 
caused by the roots being in a cold, wet, and consequently badly constructed 
or constituted border, or from defective drainage ; but it very often arises 
from a deficiency of foliage, and the deprecatory practice of allowing so 
much to be made in the early stages as to necessitate the removal of a large 
quantity when the Grapes are in the last stages of swelling. It also some¬ 
times results from the want of calcareous matter in the soil, which may be 
rectified by giving a good dressing of quicklime and forking it into the border 
—a bushel per rod not being too much. If it arise from a badly constructed 
aud imperfectly drained border the best remedy would be to lift the Vines 
and make the drainage efficient. The proper time to do this is so soon as the 
leaves give indications of being mature. If the Grapes are as badly coloured 
as those sent they certainly will not keep for any length of time, and are 
probably in their present defective colour from overcropping. See our 
remarks on late Grapes in this week’s “ Work.” 
Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica (X). — This valuable green carpet¬ 
bedding plant is hardy, yet it not infrequently suffers by excessive wet 
during winter and spring, especially if it is planted in large masses. A good 
mode of wintering it is to plant very small tufts of it now on a dry south 
border, placing two or three rooted sprays together and about 3 inches 
apart in rows 6 inches asunder, or at such other distance that a small hoe 
can be run through the ground between them as required. The tufts should 
not be more than half an inch across in November. If much larger many of 
the plants are almost certain to damp off. In very wet soils and districts 
the plants should be conveniently disposed for receiving the shelter of spare 
sashes, frame lights, or handlights. 
Winter’s Bark (IF. TV. L.). —This is the produce of a small tree (Drymis 
Winteri) allied to the Magnolias, and is occasionally seen in botanic gardens 
or choice collections of plants in this country. The bark is a stimulant 
aromatic tonic, and may be used for similar purposes as cinnamon and Canella 
alba, for the latter of which it is sometimes substituted. Its odour is that 
of pepper and basil, and its flavour of a burning acridity adhering to the 
throat. It is said to be good in scurvy, vomiting, and paralysis, and it is 
also used for tanning. It was first brought to England from the Straits of 
Magellan in 1579 by Captain Winter, who went out with Sir Francis Drake 
in his voyage round the world. He found it very useful to his ship’s crew 
both as a substitute for other spices and as a cure for scurvy. The leaves 
with other herbs are said to have been used successfully in fomentations, 
and half a drachm of the bark boiled with some carminative seeds promoted 
perspiration and relieved those suffering from scurvy. Other species of 
Drymis, as granatensis and axillaris, possess the same properties, and the 
fruit of Tasmannia aromatica is used as pepper by the settlers of Australia. 
The Pear Tree Slug (G. P.). —The best remedy for this troublesome 
pest is to dust the trees frequently with quicklime ; perhaps the cause of 
your non-success is not using sufficient at a dressing. You will find figures 
of the larvae and perfect insect in the Journal, page 22, July Gth, 1882. In 
reference to this insect, Curtis—under the head of “ Tenthredo adumbrata ”— 
says, “ Arboriculturists are familiar with a slimy black larva like a little 
leech which appears as if glued to the le wes of Pear trees, and which is of 
very common occurrence in fruit gardens in September and October. From 
its form and appearance Reaumur called it the slug-worm. At the end of 
autumn, when it has attained its full size, it somewhat resembles a small 
tadpole. It has twenty feet, which, however, cannot be seen without 
dislodging it from the leaf. It does not begin at the edges of the Pear leaf, 
but gnaws away the parenchyma in the middle, leaving the smallest veins 
and the epidermis of the under side untouched, so that the leaves attacked 
are left like the finest lace. After four times casting its skin it changes to 
an orange-yellow colour, comes down from the tree, and forms a cocoon from 
particles of soil bound together by a few silken threads. The perfect insect, 
according to Hartig, is 2^ lines long, smooth, black, and shining, with the 
horns almost as long as the abdomen ; the legs are black, the joints and 
thighs reddish-brown, the wings obscure.” The grub is frequently very 
destructive to wall trees. It appears on Pear trees when the fruit are from 
one-half to two-thirds of their full size, and by destroying the parenchyma 
of the leaves it prevents the elaboration of the sap, brings growth to a 
standstill, and the Pears, instead of swelling, drop. Some authors consider 
that the slug-worm of Reaumur produces the Tenthredo Cerasi of Linnaeus ; 
o h rs consider it to belong to the Tenthiedo iEthiops of Fabricius. The 
