284 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 27, 1883. 
active roots, will grow and flower freely during the winter in the same 
temperature provided they have a very light position. Old plants that 
are not required to flower in winter may be kept tolerably dry, divested 
of a number of their leaves, and stored in the coolest position of the 
house. They will not be safe in frames. Plants that are getting too tall 
and taking up more room than can be afforded may be cut down, as they 
can then be placed more closely together on the stages or on shelves 
suspended from the roof; such shelves, however, will be of the greatest 
value during the early stages of the growth of your bulbs. Show and 
Fancy Pelargoniums should be wintered close to the glass ; they cannot 
be safely preserved in a frame. You may cut down the shrubs and trees 
at any time from now till March, but the sooner you do the work the 
longer will be the time that must necessarily elapse before they start into 
growth again and assume a fresh appearance. 
Cherry Plum (IF. M. B.). —This is not the Mirabelle Petite, which is a 
small yellow Plum, useful for preserving and all culinary purposes. The 
Cherry Plum is quite different, and we cite the following description of it 
from the “Fruit Manual.” “Cherry [Early Scarlet; Miser Plum; Myro- 
balan; Virginian Cherry). —Fruit medium sized, cordate, somewhat flattened 
at the stalk, and terminated at the apes by a small nipple, which bears upon 
it the remnant of the style like a small bristle. Skin very thick and pale red, 
covered with small greyish white dots. Stalk three-quarters of an inch long, 
slender, and inserted in a small cavity. Flesh yellow, sweet, juicy, and sub¬ 
acid, adhering to the stone. It may be used in the dessert more as an orna¬ 
mental variety than for its flavour, but it makes excellent tarts. Ripe in the 
beginning and middle of August. The young shoots are smooth, slender, and 
thickly set with buds. This is the Prunus myrobalana of Linnseus. It is 
frequently grown in shrubberies and clumps as an ornamental tree, w T here in 
spring its profusion of white flowers render it an attractive object.” Fruit is 
occasionally seen in the market, but only in small quantities. 
Tall Scarlet Pelargonium [Idem). —The plant to which you refer as 
growing in Brittany is P. inquinans. There are several strong-growing 
varieties employed for covering walls and trelliswork under glass. The 
strongest we know is the old G-iant Scarlet, but we seldom see it now. 
Smith’s Defiance is similarly robust in growth, but this also, we think, is 
scarce. This was followed by Punch, a variety raised by the late Mr. 
Beaton, and is useful for the purpose you name. We are unable to say 
which is the best variety for covering rockwork, as so much depends on 
the size and position of a rockery. Those we have named will cover space 
quickly, and in a suitable position flower freely. 
Chrysanthemums for Exhibition [E. F.).—If your plants finish well 
and are neatly trained they will be quite worthy of exhibiting at your 
local show, but you must secure the crown buds at once by removing the 
surrounding breaks promptly. You will thus have one good flower on each 
shoot, and this will be far better than three imperfect blooms ; besides, the 
terminal buds would be too late, and the blooms from the crown buds, 
although your show is late, could, if rather early, be retarded, as large 
well-formed flowers continue fresh much longer than small flat examples. 
If you “ take ” the crown buds and manage the plants well, we think they 
will be in condition at the time of your show ; but it is important to notice 
whether the crown buds are not weakened by the too great extension of the 
surrounding growths appropriating the support from the central buds and 
practically spoiling them. If this is so, then there is no option but to push 
ou the growths and take the terminal buds as quickly as possible. 
Pears [S. S .).—We should expect the varieties to answer on the aspect 
you name, but during a hot dry season Williams’ Bon Chretien might ripen 
prematurely, and would not probably be of the best quality. But if your 
soil is rather heavy and rich as well as deep that will be a distinct advan¬ 
tage. Souvenir du Congres is a very fine Pear, and Clapp’s Favourite 
appears to be increasing in popularity. 
Violets (IF. N.). —Many persons cut all the runners off Violets as if they 
were trimming Strawberries, and they undoubtedly obtain a profusion of 
fine blooms ; but in the case of a new variety, or any variety of which it is 
desirable to increase the stock, we should certainly allow at the least a 
number of runners to extend and form plantlets, as we should not perceptibly 
weaken the old plants, while those from the young would produce a succes- 
tion of flowers. You will not err by allowing some of the stoutest runners 
to extend and take root in the bed. 
List of Useful Orchids (IF. G .).—You will find the majority of the 
following easy to grow, moderately cheap, free, and handsome :—Ada 
aurantiaca, Aerides odoratum, Brassia verrucosa, Calanthes Veitchii and 
vestita ; Cattleyas crispa, labiata, Mossice, and Trianas ; Coelogyne cristata, 
Cypripedinm barbatum, C. insigne, C. Sedeni, and C. villosum ; Dendrobiums 
crassinode, densiflorum, nobile, and Wardianum ; Epidendrum vitellinum ; 
Lmlias anceps, autumnalis, and elegans : Lycaste Skinneri ; Masdevallias 
Harryana, ignea, Lindeni, Veitchiana, and Shuttleworthii; Odontoglossums 
Alexandra, cirrhosum, maculatum, and Pescatorei; Oncidium concolor, 
0. cucullatum, Pleione humilis, Sophronitis grandiflora, and Zygopetalum 
Mackayii. The “ Orchid-Grower’s Manual,” published by Mr. B. S. Williams, 
Upper Holloway, price 7s. 6tf., post free 8s., will no doubt suit you. 
Boiler Power [J. C.). —A terminal saddle boiler of the dimensions you 
give will heat close upon 2000 feet of 4-inch piping ; but as a large margin 
must be allowed for the deposition of soot on the surface of the boiler, we 
should calculate the heating power of the boiler at 1500 feet of 4-inch piping. 
It would heat over 2000 feet, but the expense in fuel would not compensate 
for the working of the boiler to its utmost capacity, and is not only unecono¬ 
mical, but from the heat generated from a highly heating radiating surface 
injurious to plant life. 
Making Soot Water [L. IF. S.). —If you place sufficient soot in a coarse 
canvas bag and immerse it in a tub of water, allowing it to remain long 
enough, it is bound to change the colour of the water and afford you useful 
liquid manure for your plants. Another plan is to first form the soot into 
mortar or paste, then place it in the tub, which fill up with water, stirring 
occasionally for a day or two, then allowing the soot to settle. A peck of 
soot will suffice for about thirty gallons of water. If a few lumps of fresh 
unslaked lime as large as your hand are placed in the tub this will clear the 
water, and all that will be requisite will be to clear the scum from the 
surface before using. If your greenhouse is damp the tub of water would 
be better removed in the winter. What little water you need then can easily 
be made tepid in another manner. 
Sub-laterals on Vines ( East of Berwickshire). —It is usual to remove the 
sub-laterals from fruit-bearing Vines, nipping them off at one leaf as soon 
as that leaf is as large as a shilling, and stopping all succeeding growths at 
the first leaf that forms afterwards, keeping to that leaf throughout the 
season. It is a simple process of finger-and-thumb work, and is commenced 
even before the bunches expand their flowers. In the case of young Vines 
that have not produced fruit it is customary to allow the laterals to extend 
considerably with the object of encouraging the production of roots ; and 
also in the case of fruiting Vines, if the principal foliage is injured by insects, 
scorching, or fumigation, it is highly advisable to encourage the growth of 
sub-laterals, but not to the extent of crushing and crowding the foliage to 
the extent of depriving the leaves of light and air. An extension of lateral 
growth on the part of weakly Vines with defective root-action is often 
advisable at this season of the year. 
Lavatera arborea variegata (IF. F., Knaresborough). —Although we 
have a plant that has passed two winters safely in the open air, it is in a 
sheltered position in the south of England. Young plants grown quickly 
from seed are thus made tender, and you would act imprudently by entrust¬ 
ing them in the open air in your district. It is only when they assume a 
ligneous character that they can be considered really hardy. We are glad 
you have found the plants so handsome. Those you have “ 3 feet high and 
beautifully variegated ” will be attractive in the conservatory ; and as you 
observe, the young leaves keep fresh a long time in water, they will be 
valuable to mix with cut flowers for room-decoration. 
Gardeners’ Dictionary—Seedling Pelargoniums [Young Gardener ).— 
In addition to the “ Cottage G-ardener’s Dictionary ” there is Paxton’s 
“ Botanical Dictionary,” which can be obtained through a bookseller. Its 
price, we think, is 25s. You cannot have a more useful work of the kind 
than the one you possess, but by all means have both if you can conveniently 
do so. The term you mention is an abbreviation of the word “ inoculate,” 
the meaning of which you can find in a dictionary. Although several of the 
seedlings you name would be similar to the parents, there is no certainty 
that all, or even a majority of them, would be identical. 
Heating a Frame [R. P. K., Surrey). —Although some persons have suc¬ 
ceeded in excluding frost from frames with the aid of petroleum lamps, other 
persons have injured the plants by that method of heating. Necessity being 
the mother of invention, we advise you to consult a tinworker, and together 
you may be able to devise a small boiler that can be heated by a lamp, this 
being placed on the outside of the frame. A small pipe passing from the 
top of the boiler round the frame and back into the lower part of the appa¬ 
ratus will insure a circulation of hot water through the pipes. These may 
be of tin or metal gas pipes, whichever are the cheaper. This would be the 
safest plan of preserving your plants, and such a small home-made apparatus 
would not be costly. A simple, efficient, and inexpensive method of ex¬ 
cluding frost from frames and miniature greenhouses is much wanted, and 
if produced and made extensively known would meet with a good sale. 
Leeks [J. Hood). —Cutting back or “ topping ” the leaves of your Leeks 
would only lessen the crop by paralysing the growth. If you had given 
us any particulars about the way you have treated the crop we might 
have been able to give you a more satisfactory answer ; but if, as we 
imagine, your Leeks have not been transplanted as they should have been, 
in July at latest, they will be of no great value, as the stems will be all 
exposed, and therefore next to useless. If the whole are lifted at once and 
laid in so deeply that these stems are quite covered, they will be well 
blanched before spring. In doing so dig over the ground, making it smooth, 
and as you go along, every 18 inches or so lay the line along the dug ground 
and beat it smooth where the line is laid. Then cut a nearly perpendicular 
rut (i inches or more deep, and in this rut lay the Leeks pretty much as you 
would plant Box or put in cuttings, and level up the earth against them, 
making it firm. Then dig another 18 inches and repeat the process. If, 
while the plants were still small, you had dibbled them in deeply, leaving 
the hole open, the process will not be necessary, and all that is necessary 
will be to draw earth to the stems. 
Heating Pits [J. T. S.). —It is quite impossible that we can keep m our 
memory the nature and exact dimensions of structures that have formed 
the subject of past inquiries. We can only say that the top .pipe should be 
the flow, the lower the return. The quantity of piping to be used depends 
on whether early forcing is needed ; if so, two rows of 3-inch pipes would be 
advisable, but for having Melons ripe in July and August one flow and 
return 4-inch pipe would suffice. We are now writing on the assumption 
that your pit is low, in which case ventilators a foot wide would suffice. 
Ordinary deal is used for the framework of pits, but oak sills give them 
greater durability. The wires may be 9 inches apart, and a foot from the 
glass. If you desire to heat one division and not the other, you will need 
three valves, one each on the flow and return, and one in the waterway 
connecting the two pipes. You had better procure the services of a practical 
man to see the boiler and arrange the pipes. This would certainly be the 
safest course, and in all probability the most economical. A saddle boiler 
2 feet long will suffice. 
Late Grapes [II. S.). —Lady Downe’s Seedling is generally conceded to- 
be the best keeper of all late Grapes, and when well ripened and preserved is 
of very good quality. It does not usually produce large bunches, and the 
berries are more liable to scald than the majority of Grapes. The Black 
Alicante is a stronger grower, producing larger bunches and finer berries 
than the preceding, but in our opinion is not equal to it in quality. It is 
a very easy variety to grow. As regards quality of fruit, and also of ap¬ 
pearance when well grown and finished, there is no late Grape to surpass, 
if to equal, Mrs. Pince’s Muscat; but many persons fail to produce it in the 
best condition. In the vinery at Longleat it is grown in the same division 
as Lady Downe’s and Alicante, and surpasses them both in appearance and 
quality, though it may not keep perhaps quite so long as the former. It 
will succeed with Hamburghs as well as either of the others will, but none 
of the varieties mentioned might give you the same amount of satisfaction 
as the Hamburghs in the same house We neither advise you nor dissuade 
