292 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 4, 1883. 
to the small section with Lily-like bulbs, from the small scales of which 
lit is easily propagated, as it seldom ripens seed in this country. Flowers 
the latter end of April and May. 
F. Iloolteri , Baker, forms with F. maeropbylla a group between 
Lilies and Fritillarias. They have both been referred to the former, 
although leaning considerably in favour, and now put into the latter. 
It grows from 1 to 2 feet high, bearing from eight to twelve large pale 
lilac Lilium-like flowers, covering more than a third of the whole stem. 
Found at from 9 to 10,000 feet, and is restricted to the Laching Valley, 
Sikkim. Flowers in May. 
F. pallidijlora, Schrenck.—This, from its vigorous constitution and 
floriferous character, is one of the most remarkable of the group to which 
it belongs. The flowers are very large and numerous, of a dull creamy 
colour, with beautiful purple spots all over the inside. The leaves are 
broad, oval, and of a glaucous green colour. If taken in hand by some 
experienced hybridiser and worked with some of the finer varieties of 
F. imperialis the probability is that a plant intermediate between the 
two would be the result, and which would be very desirable for orna¬ 
mental purposes. Native of Siberia. It was first introduced to France, 
and from thence to this country. Flowers March and April. 
F. persica, L.—This grows from 2 to 3 feet high, bearing a spike 
with from ten to forty flowers, varying from dark purple to lilac, 
without tessellation, Campanula-like, and closely packed together on the 
stems. It is supposed to be originally a native of Persia, and to have 
been introduced into this country about 1573. It was cultivated in 
Gerarde’s garden 1596, and at that time, he says, was a denizen of 
many of the London gardens. Parkinson informs us that “ it was 
sent into us by the means of divers Turkey merchants from Constan¬ 
tinople.” Flowers in May. Worthy of a place in every garden from 
its free habit. 
I. imperialis, L.—The Crown Imperial, sent to this country about 
1590 from the Royal Gardens, Berlin, is one of the earliest tall flowers 
©f the spring, and makes a fine appearance in the flower border at a 
season when such flowers are much wanted for decorative purposes. 
It is said to emit a rank fox-like odour, although I have failed to 
perceive it; but the beauty of the plant, however, and the splendid 
magnificence of its various and richly coloured flowers, will ever secure 
it a place in the garden. The singularity of the nectary, too, in the 
form of a glandular cavity at the base of each segment, and which 
contains a drop of nectareous matter when the plant is in full vigour, 
cannot but engage the attention of the most casual observer. Another 
of the wonders of Nature, and which is by no means peculiar to this 
plant, may be observed in peduncles, which bend down when the plant 
is in flower, becoming upright as the seeds begin to ripen, lest they 
should fall too soon. There are over a dozen really distinct and 
desirable varieties, single and double, embracing a great variety of 
colours ; but the most valuable for decorative purposes has three, some¬ 
times four, whorls of pure yellow flowers above each other. Flowers 
in May. F. Meleagris is so well known that it does not need description. 
—D. D. 
AMERICAN VINES AND THE PHYLLOXERA. 
Me. Ward has stated that the Strawberry Grape was the firR to be 
attacked with the phylloxera at Longford Castle, and hence concluded 
that American Vines are not phylloxera-proof. Without wishing to 
suggest that they are, may I ask what evidence your correspondent can 
adduce in proof of the Strawberry Grape being an American variety ? 
It may be grown in America, and Vines may have been sent from there 
to this country. But is this Grape of American origin ? I know it is 
somewhat commonly regarded as an American Grape, but I am of opinion 
that the Vine in question is not an American variety at all. I know the 
Grape very well, and its growth and foliage bear some resemblance to 
those of American Vines, but this is not sufficient evidence of its identity 
as an American Grape. It is well to know that it is not phylloxera- 
proof, and Mr. Ward has done good service in recording his experience 
on that point, as it will prevent persons using the Vine as a stock under 
the assumption that it is an American variety, and hence less liable than 
European Grapes are to be attacked by that destructive insect.—A n Old 
Grape-Grower. 
[If the history of this Grape is examined we suspect it will be found 
to be of Italian origin.] 
Mr. Ward at page 446 mentions the fact of an American Vine (the 
Strawberry) being the first to be attacked by the phylloxera in his 
vineries, which he says is conclusive proof that American Vines are not 
phylloxera-proof. Before assuming this we must first know if the 
variety mentioned belongs to any of those species reputed to withstand 
the attacks of this insect. Many of what are termed as “ American 
varieties” have much of the blood of Vitis vinifera in them. For 
instance, Mr. Haskell of Massachusetts raised a batch of varieties by 
crossing V. riparia with V. vinifera. Now, though these varieties should 
be attacked by the pest no wonder need be indulged, and neither is it 
logical to take it as proof that varieties of V. labrusca, V. vulpina, or 
any other of the nine species, all differing in constitution, are also liable 
to attack. Besides being successfully crossed with V. riparia, V. labrusca 
and V. cordifolia have also been successfully employed for crossing the 
ordinary Grape Vine. Though varieties from such parentage should fail 
it does not follow that any, far less all, of the pure species should do so. 
—A. Honeyman. 
[In Dr. Schomburgk’s report of the Adelaide Botanic Gardens, South 
Australia, it is stated that “ the Californian phylloxera-proof V ine (V itis 
californica) has been found to succeed there, the growth being very 
luxuriant, the Grape making a palatable claret wine. It is found grow- 
in the vineyards of California where other Vines have been destroyed by 
the phylloxera, but this species remains uninjured. Experiments seem 
to prove that it is too robust for the phylloxera to fasten upon it. The 
French Vine-growers are much interested, and are experimenting with 
it. Professor Hillyard of the Californian State University and others 
have reported favourably upon its merits.”] 
BEECH LEAVES AND FUNGUS. 
I perceive that your able correspondent “Single-handed,” in his 
most valuable paper on the care of manures, endorses what Mr. Wright 
had stated in his equally interesting article on leaf soil, that “ soil formed 
from Oak or Beech leaves is much preferable to that from Planes or 
Elms.” I had always understood that leaf soil from Beeches produced 
an influence in the soil harmful to most plants, a mycelium which 
attacked the roots. I have generally found leaf soil, made in the 
ordinary way of Beech leaves, full of this mycelium, with a strong 
Mushroom smell. In the case of standard Roses, where the stake has 
decayed and broken olf at the surface and the rotting lower part suffered 
to remain in the ground, I have generally found that the Rose tree has 
gradually died, and on taking it up I have found the roots covered with 
mycelium, originating apparently from the decaying stump. 
I now lever up all such stumps, and am careful in planting that no 
pieces of dead wood get in the soil among Rose roots ; and when I found 
that what seems to be the same mycelium is produced apparently by 
decaying Beech leaves, I came to the conclusion that this was the cause 
of their being popularly considered harmful, and even wondered if this 
was the reason why the ground under Beech trees is, as a rule, barer of 
all vegetable growth than that under other trees. 
Beech trees seem to me to be of a harder and more woody nature 
than others. They take much longer to decay. On this light soil I have 
seen them ploughed up again, after being buried a year, nearly as fresh 
as when they fell. In fact, the poor people here collect them to stuff 
pillows and cushions, which shows how tough they must be. 
I think the old nut cases produce the mycelium more readily and 
abundantly than the leaves do, but it would be difficult to separate 
them, and I think the leaves, with their hard woody fibres, produce it 
also. 
There are many Beeches in the neighbourhood of my garden. The 
dry winds of March bring the leaves from a distance and heap them in 
drifts all over the place. I have generally burnt them as much as 
possible, but I shall be glad to learn that I have been wrong in 
attributing harm to their use as leaf soil.—A. F. M. 
CULTURE OF THE CHOROZEMA. 
Chorozemas are amongst the most useful and beautiful of winter¬ 
blooming plants, being also well adapted for house decoration ; but when 
used for this latter work should not be allowed to remain too long in the 
house, or the plauts would be permanently injured. Although of the 
hardwooded type it grows very freely, being of a rambling habit. It can 
also be grown into a good-sized specimen very quickly, and they will 
last for years if w r ell attended to. Propagation may be effected either 
by cuttings or seed, but the best and cheapest way is to procure young 
plants from a nursery at the present time. The plants should be 
wintered in a rather warm greenhouse, but it is best to grow the plants 
in a well-ventilated greenhouse when they have attained a good size, as 
they will last longer in health. Plants procured now and kept in a 
warm greenhouse until March will then require a shift into pots 2 or 
3 inches larger, using well-drained pots, as these plants, like all other, 
hardwooded plants, will not succeed if the pots are not thoroughly 
drained. The compost should consist of lumpy fibrous peat, with a 
liberal addition of sand. Pot firmly, and keep the plants close until well 
established. On bright days and as the season advances syringe the 
plants lightly on warm afternoons, and shade from bright sun. Being 
a very loose grower it will require stopping rather frequently. The 
shoots should also be kept tied out. After the plants are well rooted 
and have grown so as to require another shift they should be repotted 
and kept growing as freely as possible until the middle of September, 
when they should be exposed to air and sunshine, but avoid cold 
draughts. If all has gone well they will bloom freely during the winter, 
after which they should be placed in a light position and repotted just 
as growth commences. Give the same liberal treatment as they received 
the preceding summer, when they will be good-sized specimens by the 
time their blooming stage arrives. After this season I do not think it is 
of any benefit to grow them in a warm house during the summer, but 
they should be kept under glass and syringed lightly on warm afternoons, 
and after blooming to be pruned slightly. They will last for several 
years if their requirements are well attended to, but a few young plants 
are always acceptable.—A. Y. 
Wasps Attacking Fruit. —I have no tomtits, and yet the wasps 
have nearly stripped my Pear trees, which bear very hard, round, green 
fruits. I have now tied long strips from old muslin curtains round the 
branches, and have made muslin bags for Pears on the standard trees, and 
so far have kept off the wasps, but I fear the covering will interfere with 
