300 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 4, 1883. 
results from sucli treatment, but this season it is not quite 
what it ought to be, and to turn them out of the pots this 
winter may not be unwise, and pot the strong eyes the following 
winter. 
To revert to the shrubs again. With the exception of the 
Hydrangeas, various forms of Azalea and Mezereon. deciduous 
shrubs are absent from the shrubberies proper. Care has been 
taken in arranging the various kinds of shrubs. For instance, 
the planting of two deciduous sorts side by side has been 
avoided. Also on account of the somewhat limited extent of 
the shrubberies forest trees are absent, and the evergreens 
employed are such as have been considered most suitable for 
the purpose. Hollies, both variegated and plain-leaved, are well 
represented. The same may be said of the Golden Yew (Taxus 
baccata elegantissimal; but the most noteworthy feature in the 
shape of a shrub is Betinospora plumosa aurea. This presents 
itself in its best form, and some striking examples are amongst 
the number. The type also is made good use of as a relief to 
the golden form. Rhododendrons are represented by all the 
best sorts, and the varieties judiciously distributed. The old 
R. ponticum is entirely absent. I can assign several reasons 
why the ordinary forest trees are absent. In the first place, 
they grow too large and al ;o too rapidly, their naked appearance 
in winter is unsightly; in summer their spreading branches 
shade everything growing near them, and their roots ramify to 
such an extent as to aid materially in exhausting the soil, which 
would afford to the innumerable herbaceous plants and bulbs a 
most pitiable existence. Moreover, if we want to see forest 
trees, we have only to turn to our little sloping wood, which in 
the spring is covered with the Bluebell and Campion, and other 
beautiful will flowers natural to the place.—T. Entwistle. 
THE GREENHOUSE AND ITS INMATES. 
(Continued from page 1S3 .) 
RHODODENDRONS. 
Of late years Rhododendrons have become fashionable for greenhouse 
and conservatory decoration, and grand plants they make in houses 
suited to their requirements. Many of our very finest species require 
greenhouse treatment, but most need plenty of space, and to be planted 
out in prepared borders. When they are grown in pots they are seldom 
in the robust health which is necessary to produce a pleasing effect. We 
have often seen large plants in fine health. Greenhouse Rhododendrons 
are not quite suitable for beginners, but we advise all amateurs to try and 
flower a few Rhododendrons of the hardy varieties yearly. Grow the 
plants outside, and only flower them inside. For this purpose a bed of 
sandy peat should be made for planting them in. This done, duplicate 
plants (to flower every alternate year) should be obtained in spring of 
the following varieties R. Nobleanum (rose), Nobleanum album 
(white), caucasicum (yellowish), ciliatum (pinkish white), prrecox (lilac), 
prrecox rubrum (red), and multiflorum album (pure white). These will 
all flower by January or February if treated as described below. 
If a few are wanted for March and April the following should be 
grown :—Altaclerense (crimson), Flambeau (crimson), John Waterer 
(scarlet), Lord Clyde (crimson), Mrs. John Clutton (white), Mrs. John 
Waterer (pink), and The Queen (white). These should be planted so 
wide apart that the sun and air may play freely amongst them. Should 
a dry summer ensue watering and mulching may be necessary. By the 
end of October one of each variety should be placed into pots large 
enough to hold all the roots without crushing. Sandy peat should be 
used to fill in any necessary interstices. Watering should then be 
cautiously, yet efficiently, done, and the plants stood in a cold frame, 
which should be kept rather close for a week or two. By Christmas they 
should be transferred to the greenhouse, where they will soon reward the 
cultivator with their charming flowers. Of course care must be taken 
that plants having flower buds are lifted. After flowering is past the 
plants must be taken care of, and placed out again by the end of May, 
there to remain for two years to recruit themselves, when they will be 
again fit for lifting and potting. Next October the others should be 
lifted and treated in the same way. 
SOLANTTM CAPSICASTRUM. 
This plant is grown for the sake of the profusion of bright scarlet 
berries with which it is clothed during the autumn and winter months. 
It is when well furnished most attractive, and it is, moreover, very easily 
grown. It may be raised from cuttings in spring, but it is better to 
raise the plants from seeds. Any light soil suits them, and the seed 
should be sown in the greenhouse, or, better still, in a pot placed on a 
hotbed. As soon as the plants have four leaves they should be pricked 
out 3 inches apart in boxes and kept growing. Pinching should be 
attended to in order to produce bushy specimens. When they become 
crowded in the boxes it will be time for planting them out. In the 
sunny south they will do very well outside, but in cold northern localities 
they will require to be under glass. The plants should be placed not 
nearer than 20 inches apart, and if they are in frames ventilating will 
require to be attended to. (When the climate does not suit them out¬ 
side it is better to try one or two than to bother with them.) It will be 
necessary to syringe them occasionally with softsoap water or tobacco 
water once a week to prevent insects injuring them. They will need to 
be lifted carefully and potted by October or sooner if frost is expected 
After they are lifted they should be placed in a cold frame, and kept 
close and shaded from strong sunshine for a few days until they have 
fresh roots. They may be afterwards removed to the greenhouse. they 
make good table plants, the berries appearing to advantage by artificial 
light among the dark green foliage. 
STATICE. 
When well grown Statices are very showy plants. An ordinary 
greenhouse is warm enough in summer, but scarcely so in winter, unless 
the warmest corner is given to them. Good loam, leaf soil, or decaye 
manure, and a good dash of sharp sand or pounded charcoal, will suit 
them as regards soil. Syringing with soapy water to keep down green y 
should be attended to. Care should be taken not to allow these p.ants 
to flower excessively. A good growth should be made in spring be ore 
any flower spikes are allowed to form. Statice profusa is the most gene¬ 
rally useful variety, but S. Holfordii makes a finer exhibition specimen. 
TACSONIA YAN-YOLXEML 
There are several Tacsonias, all very good greenhouse climbers, very 
much resembling Passifloras, and requiring the same treatment. T. ' an- 
Volxemi is the best, and is a most lovely climbing plant. It is a strong 
grower and requires plenty of room. No better plant is grown for clothing 
rafters or large spaces of back and other walls in a conservatory. It may 
be grown in a pot, but is much better planted out. 
TEA ROSES IN FOTS. 
No matter how little accommodation one may have, room should always 
be afforded for one or two Tea Roses in pots for the sake of having a bloom 
or two in the late winter and early spring months. Or for covering a 
rafter or back wall what could be more suitable than a Tea Rose ? The 
Rose var excellence for such a situation is Marechal Niel. To do it 
justice it should be planted out in a prepared border either outside or 
inside the house. Proper drainage ought to be provided, for soil s °urcd 
by stagnant water does not suit Tea Roses. The young shoots which 
spring from near the base and grow vigorously should be laid in at full 
length. The year following these will bear fine .blooms in profusion. 
In pruning, all old twiggy wood should be cut out and the young clean 
shoots retained, for it is always from these shoots that the finest blooms 
come, although smaller shoots from older wood will bloom freely if it is 
properly ripened. 
Roses require to be potted in good loam, with a little manure and 
bonemeal. When the soil is well filled with roots liquid manure is of 
great benefit, and top-dressings of rich manure ought always to be given. 
The plants should be kept cool through the winter to give them a rest, 
which is what all plants require. While resting they should be pruned. 
This, generally speaking, consists in cutting out useless spray and short¬ 
ening back the good shoots to plump well-developed buds. I he beginner 
should not introduce his plants to the house before the days begin to 
lengthen visibly, say in February. It is very well for gardeners having 
skill and proper appliances to force Roses all winter, but the amateur 
who has not a forcing house to forward his plants in and other structures 
to nurse them in afterwards should not attempt it unless he is prepared 
to buy fresh plants for another year, for Roses will not submit to it and 
remain in health ; but Roses will do well for years if only forwarded 
a month or two each spring. Ordinary greenhouse heat will suit them 
at the period named. Green fly will be almost sure to attack them, but 
soapy water applied with the syringe will keep it in check. Should 
mildew appear, dusting the affected parts with flowers of sulphur is 
efficacious. 
After the plants have flowered—say by May—they should be removed 
to a sheltered spot out of doors and plunged in ashes. If the pots are 
well filled with roots at this stage plenty of weak liquid manure should 
be given them, and the surface of the soil top-dressed with rich manure. 
Weakly shoots should be removed and strong wood encouraged. The 
plants may be shifted during summer if they are at all likely to become 
root-bound. A showery time should be chosen for this operation, so that 
no check may be suffered by the plants. All flower buds should be 
removed as fast as they appear. Sometimes the plants show a number 
of buds late in autumn, and the temptation is then great to remove 
them to the greenhouse where the buds may expand. If late flowers 
are more valued than early ones this may be done. In October the 
plants should be rested by being kept moderately dry and cool but 
safe from frost, and started gently in February again, after having been 
pruned. 
TROIAEOLTLUS. 
Tuberous Tropseolums are beautiful easily managed plants. They 
should be purchased in the autumn when at rest. Good drainage must 
be given and comparatively large pots used, for “ shifting-on ” is too 
risky a process in the case of these plants for an amateur to attempt. 
Fibry loam, leaf soil, and a good sprinkling of charred refuse and sharp 
sand will suit them well. Potting should be firmly done, and the bulbs 
covered 2^- inches. Watering must be carefully attended to, just as much 
being given as will keep the soil moist and no more until growth com¬ 
mences, when it may be gradually increased. The very slender shoots 
should have a neat trellis to run on, and care should be taken to dis¬ 
tribute the growths evenly, as they are apt to form a tangled mass. 
After the foliage decays water should be gradually withheld, and finally 
stopped altogether while the plants are resting. When resting they 
should be placed outside or in a cool shed. The soil must, however, be 
kept dry. T. speciosum and T. Jarratii are the best kinds. 
