302 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 4, 1883. 
have escaped notice during the season of growth that are now unneces¬ 
sary, they should be cut out, and beyond cutting back any shoots 
that have ripened to the extremities to sound well-ripened wood, very 
little use will be found for the knife. The branches in a well-trained 
Peach tree should be 12 to 18 inches apart, and the branches upon those 
not more closely disposed. This will allow of the foliage and fruit 
having the full benefit of light and air. The trees being loosened from 
the trellis the woodwork of the house should be well brushed with soap 
and water, and the trees carefully washed with the same, being careful 
not to disturb the buds, and when they become dry dressed with some 
approved insecticide, applied with a painter’s brush. The woodwork 
and trellis should be painted if needed, and the walls limewashed. 
The border must have the loose surface soil removed, and fresh rich 
material supplied if it has not been already done in lifting the trees. 
The lights may remain off the house until wanted for closing the house, 
having them repaired and painted so as to be in readiness when required ; 
but if they have been replaced to ward off heavy rains the ventilators 
should remain open constantly, and if the house has fixed roof lights care 
must be taken to prevent the inside border from becoming dry, or it is 
likely the trees will cast their buds when they ought to swell for expanding 
the blossoms. 
Root-pruning and Top-dressing. —This should be proceeded with in 
late houses as soon as the leaves give indications of maturity, and be 
brought to a close as soon as possible, as operations of this kind are best 
performed whilst a majority of the leaves are on the trees. Where young 
trees or those of some years’ training have to be taken in from open 
walls ripening the wood may be facilitated by digging a trench a few 
feet from the stem and leaving it open. 
Vines. — Late Rouses. —Where late-keeping Grapes were encouraged 
in spring with fire heat and through the early summer, and artificial 
heat when ripening, the fruit will now be well finished, and the foliage 
showing the beautiful tints of colour peculiar to most of the late kinds, 
especially the thick-skinned section, which are a good indication of the 
thorough maturation of the wood. Every lateral should now be taken 
off down to the main buds. Ventilation as the days decrease in length 
and increase in moisture will require more careful attention. With the 
Grapes well in advance free ventilation, with slight fire heat by day 
is the best course to pursue, turning off the heat when the front 
ventilators are closed for the day. Should the inside borders become 
dry before the Grapes have coloured well, a guod watering with 
weak tepid liquid manure should be given in the morning ; and as the 
greatest danger to be guarded against is the condensation of moisture on 
the berries, it should be overcome by covering the border with dry clean 
litter or fern, with liberal ventilation at the apex, and a little extra fire 
heat. This will often cause the Grapes to colour up to the footstalks in 
a short time. 
Rouses of Ripe Ramburghs. —These will now require careful manage¬ 
ment. Keep the house dry and cool, ventilating freely when the 
external air is dry, and employing fire heat only to expel damp. Ex¬ 
amine the Grapes occasionally for decayed berries, which must be 
promptly removed. Avoid anything likely to raise dust and causing it 
to settle on the berries, as sweeping and raking borders. 
Covering Outside Borders. —All outside borders, especially those of 
early and late houses, should he covered with a good thickness of dry 
bracken, and place all available lights or shutters over it for throwing off 
the wet. 
Early Rouses. —The Vines in those that are to be started in November 
or December must be pruned at once, the Vines cleansed as well as every 
part of the house—woodwork, glass, walls, &c., having everything clean, 
sweet, and in thorough working order for a new start when the time 
arrives. 
Early Vines in Pots. —Those intended for the earliest crop of Grapes 
should be placed in their fruiting quarters. Start, if possible, with a gentle 
bottom heat from fermenting materials, as three parts Oak or Beech 
leaves with a fourth part stable litter well worked and sweetened before 
placing in the bed for the Vine, which last should have the pots on 
pedestals of open brickwork to prevent their being displaced by the sinking 
of the fermenting materials. The materials should be brought up about the 
pots, but not to cause the temperature to exceed 70° to 75° about the pots. 
The ammonia vapour will assist the Vines in breaking ; and as tbe roots will 
pass from the pots to the bed the berries will swell to a much better size 
than when the roots are confined to the pots. Sling the rods in a 
horizontal position over the fermenting materials to insure a good break. 
Start with a minimum temperature of 55° by artificial means, and 60° to 
65° by day from sun heat, and maintain at the last-named by artificial 
means in the daytime as the buds expand and are expanding into growth. 
Young Vines. —Those that were planted in spring or in early summer 
from eyes struck in spring will yet be growing freely, but means must be 
adopted to get them thoroughly ripened without delay by keeping the 
house quite dry and moderately warm by day with free ventilation, keeping 
the laterals constantly pinched, except it be a few at the extremities, so as 
not to give too severe a check to the root-action, and a low night tempera¬ 
ture with free ventilation will soon make all right. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Reliotropes. —Cold nights injurs these plants very much, and even 
the slightest frost will destroy them. The plants we purposely prepared 
for flowering this autumn are now in frames. This position is becoming 
too cold for them, and they will be placed where a night temperature of 
50° can be maintained. The plants required latest will occupy the coolest 
end of the house. Unfortunately these flowers do not last long after 
they are cut and placed in warm rooms, yet they are in constant demand, 
and appreciated highly for their fragrance. A batch of cuttings may 
now be rooted and grown gently through the winter for early flowering 
in spring, when they will be found most useful. 
Double Petunias. —Some of the dwarf varieties grown in 5 and 6-inch 
pots are admirable for the decoration of the conservatory during spring and 
summer. If cuttings have not been rooted they should be inserted with¬ 
out delay, but for an early display they should now be established in 
thumb pots, and ready for others 2 inches larger. When in this condi¬ 
tion the plants should be grown under cool conditions, but if only just 
rooted they should be encouraged in an intermediate temperature for a 
time. They require frequent stopping to insure dwarf sturdy specimens. 
The winter treatment that suits these plants is so similar to that recom¬ 
mended for French and Fancy Pelargoniums, that those who follow the 
advice given will be successful. The only difference in cultivation is, 
the soil should be a little lighter for Petunias than for Pelargoniums. 
Cuttings should be rooted from time to time for the purpose of forming a 
succession. Plants rooted about Christmas will follow those required for 
early flowering, and can be grown rapidly after the new year. 
Celosias. —If these plants are in a backward state they should be 
pushed forward without delay in a little heat. Air must be given when 
favourable, and the plants arranged as close to the glass as possible, for 
they are very liable to become tall and weak if kept close and warm. A 
little heat applied judiciously is very beneficial in their last stages of 
development, as their plumes are brighter in colour than when developed 
under cool conditions. These plants require a good supply of water, but 
it must not be carelessly given, as their roots soon suffer, and the plants 
in consequence do not last half the usual time. These plants are amongst 
the most useful that can be grown for winter decoration, for their 
beautiful heads of gold and crimson will last in good condition from 
November until February in a temperature of 45° to 50°, provided damp 
can be kept from them, which is their greatest enemy in winter. 
Dielytra spectabilis. —Where this beautiful and useful plant is appre¬ 
ciated for forcing, and grown at home for that purpose, the foliage has 
died down and the roots may be lifted. When lifting the dormant plants 
should be sorted, and the smallest replanted for next season’s forcing ; 
small pieces planted now in good soil make grand plants for forcing in 
one year. Hoots that can be placed in 5 and 6-inch pots are large 
enough for the majority of decorative purposes. It is not necessary to 
lift them for potting with any soil attached ; on the contrary, it may be 
all shaken from them. After potting place them in a cold frame until 
they are wanted for forcing. 
Pyrethrums. —These are very beautiful when forced into flower in 
spring, and are very useful both for decoration and cutting. Where 
plants are not established in pots lift at once from the open borders while 
the foliage is green and fresh, and with soil adhering to the roots. After 
potting a thorough watering is necessary and a cold frame in which to 
place the plants, which, if shaded from strong sun and kept close for a 
fortnight, will have commenced rooting, and can then be subjected to 
cool treatment until their foliage dies. Do not allow them while at rest 
to become dry, but keep the soil moderately moist. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Preparing for the Winter. —Frosts will soon occur, and any tender 
bedding plants required for next season’s stock should at once be placed 
under glass. All choice varieties of Pelargoniums, or any of which there 
may be an insufficiency of cuttings struck, ought to be lifted and potted. 
No ball of earth can be procured with them, nor is required. Many of 
the old leaves should be trimmed off, or otherwise they will damp off 
and perhaps injure the growths ; the roots shortened, and the plants 
potted firmly in as small pots as can conveniently be employed. The 
more robust sorts may be placed several in 6-inch or 8-inch pots, or in 
boxes. The greenhouse and vinery shelves are the best places in which 
to winter the more delicate varieties. If not damaged by frosts more 
cuttings may yet be inserted, and any that have damped off be replaced. 
The variegated sorts are best wintered thinly in small pots, being very 
liable to damp off when placed in boxes. Keep all Pelargoniums on 
the dry side both before and after they are struck, as the less growth 
they make the better; and should any of the boxes especially become 
saturated with moisture large numbers of cuttings will inevitably be lost. 
It is too late to strike Verbena cuttings, and if there is not sufficient 
already rooted, a few old plants of each favourite variety should be lifted, 
taking care to preserve a small ball of earth about the roots. Give them 
good soil and pots rather larger than the balls, and winter in well- 
ventilated frames. If a good named variety or varieties of dwarf 
Lobelias be grown, such as pumila magnifica, Brighton, Blue Beard, and 
the white Princess of Wales, and which are preferable to seedlings, lift a 
number of old plants, trim off the bloom, and pack them clear of each 
other in well-drained boxes of good soil. These, if wintered in a green¬ 
house, pit, or frame, will in the spring divide into a great number of rooted 
pieces. 
The best Ageratums for bedding are Cannell’s Dwarf and Swanley 
Blue, but of these it is very difficult to procure cuttings. A quantity of 
each or any other preferred sort should be potted and wintered 
similarly to the Lobelias. Old plants of Heliotropes and Lantanas as a 
rule lift badly, but should they be required the attempt ought to be made. 
Preserve a ball of earth if possible, and when potted place them in a pit 
or frame, keep rather close, and water and shade carefully. During the 
