October 25, 1883 ] 
853 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
tember and October. Young trees produce annually heavy 
crops of immense fruit of first quality for culinary purposes. 
The tree is very healthy, and a most robust grower, making 
handsome pyramids and splendid orchard standards. 
Ringer. A grand culinary variety, and a most abundant and 
very constant bearer. In use daring September and October. 
Healthy moderate grower. 
Nanlcs Codlin. —Good, early, and most prolific. 
Golden Spire. —Early, distinct, handsome. A most abundant 
cropper, of good quality. Tree healthy, hardy, and moderate in 
growth. 
Duchess of Oldenburg. —An early sort, which should be more 
largely cultivated, being an Apple of first quality, very hardy, 
free grower, constant and an abundant bearer; fruit very hand¬ 
some. Tree makes very fine pyramids or orchard standards. 
Dumelow's Seedling (Wellington).—First class, and in every 
way suited to this soil and climate, very rarely failing to pro¬ 
duce immense crops of fine sound fruit, which will keep till 
May. The tree forms grand pyramids and splendid orchard 
standards. 
Old Hawthornden. —Succeeds well, and bears constantly heavy 
crops of fine fruit of excellent quality. Moderate in growth. 
New Hawthornden. —Like Dumelow’s Seedling, this is quite 
in its element in Herefordshire, producing fine crops of mag¬ 
nificent fruit, which will keep till spring. Tree strong, healthy, 
and very vigorous. 
Frogmore Prolific. —A most desirable free-fruiting sort, of 
first-rate quality. In use from September to Christmas. 
Lane’s Prince Albert. — This will shortly be looked upon 
throughout the country as “the” culinary Apple of the day. 
The tree is healthy, and for productiveness and quality cannot 
be surpassed, young trees two years after grafting bearing 
immense crops of fine fruit, which will keep 111 March. 
Cox’s Orange Pippin. —One of the late-keeping dessert sorts 
that should not be overlooked. To insure success with this 
variety here we find it necessary to plant the trees on high 
ground, and in soil of a much lighter texture than is required 
for many others. 
Irish Peach. —A productive early dessert Apple of first-rate 
quality, as is also Yellow Ingestrie. 
Worcester Pearmain. —This makes very handsome pyramids 
and orchard standards, producing good crops of handsome fruit. 
Peasgood’s Nonesuch. —Yery large an 1 exceedingly handsome, 
bears well here on young trees. Excellent in quality for either 
dessert or culinary use. Free grower, and very healthy. 
Lady Henniker. —Yery good, and a free bearer. 
Lord Derby. —Yery large, and a most constant bearer. The 
tree makes very robust growth. 
Cellini. —A very abundant and constant bearer, but unfor¬ 
tunately subject to canker, especially when planted too deeply 
or on ground having a stiff clay subsoil. 
Tom Putt. —Probably cultivated throughout this country in 
larger numbers than any other sort. it is a long-keeping 
culinary Apple of very good quality, and is without doubt a 
“ never fail.” Growth free, healthy, and vigorous. 
King of the Pippins and its allies succeed admirably here, 
prod cing grand crops of handsome fruit, suitable for dessert 
and kitchen use. It also makes excellent cider. 
Nelson Codlin and Summer Queening are both excellent crop¬ 
ping Apples of great merit. 
Court of Wo k and Court-Pendu-Plat are late dessert varieties 
of great excellence, succeeding well and bearing constantly good 
crops of handsome fruit. —H. R. Illman, Hereford. 
roses m POTS. 
Having read the directions respecting this method of Rose culture 
that have appeared in the Journal from time to time, I should like to 
give my experience, gained in a Rose nursery where some of the magnifi¬ 
cent specimens that have been exhibited were grown. The trade Roses 
are grown in the manner I will describe, and which I believe few private 
growers are acquainted with, as the method so far as I know has never 
appeared in print. If you think this first attempt of mine worthy of 
publication I will send a list of the best Roses for pot culture. 
Most of the instructions we read on this subject are somewhat as 
follows—“ Pot before flowering in loam, a little decayed dung, and some 
bone dust; then after flowering plunge the plants in ashes out of 
doors to ripen the wood,” to which I add, “and get red spider.” My 
instructions are, Pot the Roses after flowering, carefully picking some 
of the old soil from the ball with a pointed stick. If they require a 
larger pot, let it be only one size larger. Roses do not like a big 
shift. The soil should consist of good fibry loam (not such as I used 
instead of better when a foreman, which was clay and leaf soil) one 
barrowful, decayed manure one barrowful, road or river sand half a 
barrowful, a 32-sized potful of Clay’s fertiliser, and one of soot; if a 
few small crocks or pieces of charcoal are added so much the better. 
Pot the Hybrid Perpetuals first, and for every barrowload of soil left add 
a third of a barrowful of chopped peat for the Teas. 
Pot firmly, and stand the plants in a house or pit (mine is a pit), 
water them three or four times to thoroughly soak the soil, and be sure 
they are dry before they are watered again. Keep them close and 
shaded for a fortnight or three weeks, syringing them twice a day ; 
then gradually discontinue the shade till they will bear the full sun, 
always increasing the air with the reduction of shade, but close the house 
or pit in the afternoon, and syringe the plants if the weather is fine. If 
green fly appears fumigate lightly. 
From the latter part of September keep the soil rather dry, but not to 
let the young growth flag. About Christmas they may be pruned in the 
usual way—that is, if they are to flower in April and May. If wanted in 
March prune a fortnight earlier. Stop the ends with painters’ knotting 
like Vines. Before starting, the top soil should be stirred and sprinkled 
with Clay’s fertiliser or blood manure. As soon as active growth has 
commenced weak liquid manure may he given ; the draining from a 
cowshed diluted to the colour of “hushand’s” tea is good, but that should 
be discontinued when the blooms show colour. The fire heat should be 
about 55° by day, 45° by night ; the April and May Roses may have the 
fire heat turned off when the buds colour unless a severe frost occurs. 
Mildew may generally be avoided by ventilating carefully and oppo¬ 
site the wind. For instance, mine is an ordinary lean-to pit facing south; 
well, with an east wind blowing I should put a small tilt under the west 
side of the lights, but if mildew should appear sprinkle the pipes with 
sulphur in the afternoon, start the fire, and damp the pipes with the 
syringe till the house or pit is filled with steam, then brush the loose 
sulphur off in the morning. 
The May-flowering plants will have to be shaded with thin canvas 
when coming into bloom. Yery dark Roses open better under a mat at 
any time, as they scorch and turn blue. The instructions given apply 
principally to amateurs and gardeners like myself, who can afford only 
a pit to grow them in and are content with Roses in May. I learnt what 
I know of Rose-growing where bushes are grown 6 feet through, but the 
remarks apply equally to smaller plants ; and if cultivators with little 
conveniences wdl try the method next season they will perhaps thank 
me for the few hints I have given when they see the plants that will be 
the result of the practice described. 
One more hint and I have done. Keep the plants open, and if any 
shoots as thick as your little finger start from the bottom of the stem, 
pinch the point out 6 inches above the plant and cut it level with the top 
at pruning time. 
The following list of suitable varieties will be useful to those who 
have had no opportunity of seeing a collection. I name nearly forty 
varieties—quite enough for most people, though of course many more 
might be, and are. successfully grown in pots. 
Hybrid Perpetuals .—Alfred Colomb, Avocat Duvivier, Baronne de 
Rothschild, Beauty of Waltham, Capitaine Christy, Charles Darwin, 
Charles Lefebvre, Comtesse de Serenye, Comtesse d’Oxford, Countess of 
Rosebery, Dr. Andry, Duke of Connaught, Duke of Edinburgh, Edward 
Morren, General Jacqueminot, La France, Madame Lacharme, Madame 
Victor Verdier, Marie Finger, Marie Rady, Prince Camille de Rohan, 
Prefet Limbourg, Paul Jamaiu, Senateur Yaisse. 
Teas .—Alba Rosea, Anna Ollivier, Catherine Mermet, Isabella Sprunt, 
Jean Ducher, Madame Berard, Madame Chedanne Guinnoiseau, Madame 
Falcot, Madame Lambard, Marie Van Houtte, Niphetos, Perle des 
Jardins, President, Rubens. 
In addition to the above, if you have a lady to cater for who has a 
thought to spare for other things than single Dahlias and Sunflowers, 
grow two or three plants of that little gem Rosa polyantha Mignonette,, 
and you will be rewarded by hearing her exclaim “ Oh, how lovely ! ” 
—A. L. G. 
CELERY FLY—BRASSICA CATERPILLAR. 
Never in ray experience has the maggot of the Celery fly committed 
such havoc with the leaves of Celery as it has this season. The leaves of 
Par-nips have suffered from the same pest, and Parsley has not escaped. 
Now I should like to know if there is anything more potent than dusting 
the plants with soot on a dewy morning before the deposit of the eggs, 
and repeating occasionally to ward off the ravages of these pests. One 
thing is certain, that some six hundred early plants, not many yards 
away, are not infested, and these were supplied frequently with the 
stable drainings, but the skeletonised plants have had no such attention, 
and they may have lacked the salts of soda and potash which the earlier 
plants had from the urine of the stable cesspool. Some may think that 
effluvia from the watering with the stable drainage caused the fly to pass 
over the early to the late plants, but I consider that value of the ammonia, 
both of the drainings and of the soot, was due quite as much to the por¬ 
tion taken up by the roots and transmitted to the leaves of the Celery. 
Every plant, it may be contended, is a fitting feeding ground for insect 
pests of some kind. Once there they will increase and carry forward 
their work, and diseases of fungoid origin attack alike healthy as un¬ 
healthy plants ; but either we must admit predisposing causes of parasite 
infection, or disregard some of the essentials of health, which, it is need¬ 
less to state, are never ignored with impunity. Many cases in point 
might be adduced, as the freedom of Peach trees grown under glass from 
blister, the Tomato grown outdoors being attacked by disease whilst 
those in a genial temperature under glass are free from its ravages, and 
we must entirely set at nought the fact that a dry atmosphere encourages 
