October 25, 1883 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
3G5 
and is wedged up in front only. The edge of the floorboard is 
rounded off flush with the front of the wedge when pushed home. 
This latter is made of two pieces of inch stuff with stay pieces at 
each end to give stability to the whole. It is difficult for one not 
conversant with the technical terms employed by joiners to make 
these details quite clear, but the accompanying diagram (fig. 68), 
which represents one end of the wedge and floorboard, will show how 
the parts are put together, and give an idea of the whole when complete. 
The rings at the side are to give a purchase just at the right place for 
withdrawing the wedge easily. No paint must be used where it will 
give trouble in parts which should work freely and easily, such as 
about the figure 2 in diagram. The front of the wedge, No. 3, has 
two pieces of wire bent in Vandyke shape along its whole length ; 
these are useful as a foothold for the bees in windy weather. For 
about eight months of the year, say from March to October, a very 
large alighting board 26 inches long by 14 wide is used. It is made 
of light wood, and has a hinged leg to keep its outer edge about 5 or 
6 inches from the ground. It is hooked on by a couple of eyes 
screwed into the front of the rounded part of the floorboard. 
We do not find this alighting board any too large, and its uses 
are many and obvious—for hiving swarms, preventing crowds of 
returning bees from being dashed to the ground in windy weather, 
&c., while no toads or other vermin can creep up it, as they frequently 
do when the lower edge of the alighting board rests on the ground. 
The porch extends along the whole front of the hive. It is 
Fig. 68. 
The dotted lines (A) indicate the leg of hive against which the stay piece rests. B, 
The hive front. 1, Floorboard ; 2, Wedge ; 3, Wedge front; 4, Stay piece ; 5, King for 
withdrawing wedge. 
4 inches wide, and is fixed close up under the plinth of the roof when 
the latter is closed. The level part of the floorboard is always dry 
in wet weather, as no drip can reach it. The roof is 8 inches high 
in the clear, rising to 10 inches at its highest point. It is made of 
light stuff, half inch for the sides and sloping portions of the top, and 
three-quarters of an inch for the ends and ridge piece, which latter 
is 6 inches wide, and has a groove along the under edges to carry off 
the rain. Three good-sized holes are cut in each end with a centre- 
bit, and covered with perforated zinc. The back plinth of the roof 
is made of stronger stuff than the others to give support for three 
hinges. A small chain at each end keeps the roof from opening too 
far back, and a hook and catch to secure it when closed complete the 
whole. 
The hive stands on four stout legs, which are splayed outwards 
and raise it 14 inches above the ground.—W. B. C., Higher Bebington, 
Cheshire. 
CURE FOR STINGS OF WASPS AND BEES— 
DESTROYING NESTS. 
Having read the statement about the cure of wasp stings at page 283 
of the Journal, I have tried the hollow tube of the key first, and then 
rubbed the place with a piece of Garlic, which seems to act like magic 
in removing the pain, and prevents any swelling, but, like all other 
remedies, it should be done as soon as possible after beiDg stung. I have 
tried it with the stings from bees as well as wasps. I have also tried 
liquid ammonia and soda mixed, but not always with the same certainty 
as the Garlic. I first saw Onions recommended, but thinking Garlic would 
do better I have only tried Garlic, but I daresay Onions, Chinese Leeks, 
and Shallots would answer as well, whichever is the most convenient. 
I have taken over seventy wasps’ nests this year, all within a circle 
of about a mile, so I have prevented them doing me much harm or 
damaging the fruit. I have taken some very large ones, some nests 
have been over 12 inches across. I found several in August with lots 
of young queens in quite as forward as in September other years. I 
have destroyed hundreds of young queens in the nests before they have 
had time to hatch out of the comb. 
I take them by daylight, with a pair of the American bellows—the 
same as used for bees—and strong tobacco paper, and then dig the 
crown of the nest off and kill them with a rammer. I have sometimes 
found the few left outside will begin to form another nest, but I have 
never seen any eggs or grubs in them, so I do not think they do much 
harm after. I have also found the nests not more than a yard apart, 
and one place I found three within 2 yards. Last year the wasps did 
a great deal of damage to the Peaches and Nectarines on the wall. I 
have gathered over a hundred at a time more or less damaged by them. 
This year the bees seem to have taken their place, but I find they only 
attack the damaged ones. 
The wasps have been very busy on the Beech, Oak, and large Fir 
trees on account of the insects on them, and I have known the wasps to 
clear the Gooseberry trees from caterpillars. I have often seen them 
fly away with the insects. So they do us a good turn sometimes as well 
as a bad one.— Geo. Clements. 
BEE-FARMING. 
I am anxious to gain some information on the subject of keeping bees, 
as I have a very serious thought of establishing a bee farm in this neigh¬ 
bourhood, where I am surrounded with some 8000 acres of Heath. I wish 
to thoroughly acquaint myself with the following requisitions 1, Is 
bee-keeping profitable ? or is one liable to heavy losses in a bad season ? 
2, Is it such a thing as a person might take up with a fair chance of 
deriving a material income therefrom ? 3, What would be the number 
of hives necessary to insure an income of say £100 per annum after all 
expenses are paid ? 4, Is Heath alone without other feeding ground 
within a mile sufficient, in the event of a wet season during the flowering 
time, to insure a good crop ? 5, What are the best hives to use and what 
are the best strains of bees to introduce? 6, What is the name of the 
best author on practical bee-keeping ? 7, Does it require a very intimate 
knowledge of bees, their habits, and management to succeed 1 8, Are 
there any bee farms in the neighbourhood of Surrey, and if so where ? 
Having been a subscriber to your very interesting Journal for upwards of 
twenty years, I shall be glad for any assistance that can be rendered in 
this matter.—F. H. P. 
[What do experienced apiarians say ?] 
SWARMS OF BEES IN SEPTEMBER. 
The reply given by “ P. H. P.” on page 325, in answer to my note 
on the above subject is not what I anticipated, being always under the 
impression that if the position which the bees occupy was favourable 
they would stop there and perish, as I have seen many do. Those it had 
been supposed were strong enough to stand through the winter, and 
being in straw skeps no attempt was made at feeding them, the bees 
probably knowing that by going further they might fare worse. I can 
understand bees turning out of their homes when altered circumstances 
compel them to do so, such as trees blowing down in which they are 
located, and an excess of rain finding its way into their abode, compelling 
them to seek fresh quarters. When discussing the matter with one who 
has watched and studied bees for many years, though not aiding his 
observations much by those of others, he w r as of opinion that in favour¬ 
able autumns the bees would swarm as late as September, not from 
poverty but overcrowding. If this be true it would be supporting my 
fears—viz., that I had overcrowded my hives and fed them into the delusion 
that summer had come again. I must here state that the fears were only 
imaginary, as I had no reason to suppose that the bees were from our 
hives at all, but, knowing that I had made ours extra full and heavy, I 
was anxious to know if they were likely to thin themselves so late in the 
season.—C. Warden. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Bruant, Poitiers, France .—Catalogue of Fruit Trees, Shrubs, §c. 
F. W. & H. Stansfield, Sale, Manchester.— Catalogues of Hardy Perennial 
and Alpine Plants, and British Hardy and Exotic Ferns. 
Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester .—Catalogue of Boses. 
James Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen .—Catalogue of Roses. 
Ivelway & Son, Langport, Somerset .—Catalogue of Gladioli. 
Charles Turner, Slough .—Catalogues of Roses, Fruit Trees, and Florists’ 
Flowers. 
Andre Leroy [successeurs]. Angers .—Catalogue of Fruit Trees , Boses , (fc. 
George Cooling &, Son, Bath .—Catalogue of Boses and Fruit Trees 
( Illustrated). __ 
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