November 1, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
385 
be followed up without loss of time. Root-pruning, lifting, and re¬ 
arranging the trees should be completed with as little delay as possible. 
In performing those operations it is well to bear in mind that Figs, 
when the roots are confined to a limited space, are most manageable 
and productive under restricted root space, hence it is better to err on 
the side of severe rather than light root-pruning. The fan is the best 
system of training, and branch-pruning is more a principle of thinning 
out the shoots that have reached the limit of the trellis than shortening 
back to make room for the young successional growths, which should be 
evenly disposed, with sufficient room for extension, over every part of the 
trellis. 
Strarvbo'ries in Pots. —The plants intended for early forcing having 
been moved to quarters where they can be sheltered from heavy rains 
only, should have full exposure on all favourable occasions, and on no 
account must they be allowed to become dry at the roots. Standing 
the pots on Peach borders, where they must be exposed to piercing 
currents of dry air, is not suitable for Strawberries ; indeed, the pots 
should be plunged in cocoa-nut fibre refuse or similar material, so as to 
insure uniform moisture at the roots, and when the drainage is perfect 
the roots will continue active until the plants are required for forcing. 
A slight covering of dry fern or litter in severe weather is all the pro¬ 
tection required, removing it whenever the weather is mild. Although 
very little water will now be required the plants should be looked over, 
and any that require it should be given a thorough supply. 
Early Fruiters. —A batch of an early kind should be prepared for 
starting with the early vinery or early Peach house, and to which fire 
will not be applied until the early part of next month. See that the 
drainage is in thorough order, or make it so, and loosen the surface soil, 
removing a portion, but not injuring the roots, and add some fresh horse 
droppings rubbed through a fine sieve. Black Prince is still one of the 
best for very early forcing ; Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury and La Grosso 
Sucrbe are good. 
PLANT HORSES. 
Ericas. —The early-flowering varieties, such as E. gracilis, E. caffra, 
E. melanthera, and others, will now be coming into flower, and must 
have every care while in bloom if it is intended to retain them for 
flowering again next year. When used for conservatory decoration they 
are often crowded amongst other flowering plants, and in consequence 
much injured at the base. They should stand so that light and air can 
play freely about them, and should never while in such structures be 
allowed to suffer from an insufficient supply of water, or they will be 
useless for retaining for another year. Those in a more backward state 
that have only just formed their flower buds must have very careful 
attention, for if allowed to become very dry their flowers often will not 
come forward, but turn yellow; thus the work of a whole season is 
wasted. Light, air, and careful watering are the secrets of success at 
this season of the year. Keep a sharp look-out for mildew, which often 
attacks these plants during moist sunless weather. 
Cyclamens. —Where these have been growing in cold frames they 
should now be housed without delay in a cool light airy structure. 
Frames are too moist for these plants at this season of the year, and if 
not removed where a somewhat drier atmosphere can be maintained 
their flowers and foliage are liable to damp. The earliest plants should 
now be strong in land 6-inch pots, and some of them will have a good 
mass of flowei's already above their foliage. These will be found most 
acceptable for the decoration of the conservatory and for room-decora¬ 
tion at the present time. Place a batch of the most forward plants on a 
shelf near to the glass in a temperature of 50° at night, which can be 
raised 5° more in a week or ten days. Admit air to these plants daily, 
so that their flowers and foliage will not draw up weakly. Give a little 
artificial manure on the surface of the pots, or water the plants every 
time they need it with clear soot water. 
Prdmdas. —These should be removed from cold frames to shelves in 
vineries or Peach houses if better positions cannot be accorded them. 
These plants soon damp if kept in an atmosphere that is in any way con¬ 
fined ; they should have abundance of air and light, and be placed near 
to the glass. Our earliest batch are cow in flower, and have been re¬ 
moved to the conservatory. Remove flowers from all succession batches 
as they appear until they are wanted in bloom. The two latest batches 
will require potting, which should be done without delay. Those in 
3-inch pots should be transferred to others 2 inches larger, except a few 
of the smallest plants, which will be found most valuable for many pur¬ 
poses of decoration in the size in which they are now in, and if liberally 
supplied with stimulants they will yield a large quantity of bloom when 
required. Where a very late batch is grown they will now be thoroughly 
established in 2-inch pots, these should have 4-inch. All that are re¬ 
potted must be very carefully watered. The double forms we find do better 
if kept in a night temperature of about 50° where the air can be kept 
moderately dry. In this position they will continue to supply abundance 
of useful flowers in succession. 
Cinerarias and Calceolarias. —These should still occupy cold frames, 
but must be in those with the most southern aspect. Attention is needed 
from the present time in ventilation. The ventilators must still be left 
open on the frames at night when the weather is mild. Watering must 
be done during the early part of the day, and no more water should be 
thrown about than is really necessary. Potting must still be continued 
as these plants require it, and the latest batch of both that are still in 
pans should be placed in 3-inch pots without delay if not already done. 
Give stimulants to the former when the pots are full of roots. Nothing 
is better than clear soot water. Fumigate at the first appearance of 
aphides, but the foliage should be dry when doing so. 
Carnations. —Tree and other varieties that have been grown for 
producing flowers during the winter and spring should occupy a light 
airy position in the greenhouse or other suitable structure where liberal 
ventilation can be given. Do not allow the plants to suffer by the want 
of water, and feed them moderately if the pots are full of roots. Do not 
attempt to force them, for a temperature of 50° at night, with ventilation 
daily, is ample, and in which the plants will for some time continue to 
unfold their valuable flowers. 
Hybrid Poses in Pots. —Where these are required to be forced into 
flower early they should be placed under cover without further delay. 
The batch that has been prepared for this purpose can now be pruned. 
They should for early forcing be well cut back to one or two eyes, 
which is preferable to leaving them longer, for when forced early they 
do not break back so well as is the case later in the season. Where the 
stock of these has to be increased the plants should be lifted or obtained 
without delay and potted in 6 or 7-inch pots. If potted while the foliage 
is upon them they make a good quantity of roots and a better growth in 
consequence the following season. After potting, plunge them outside, 
entirely covering their pots with ashes or other material. Use for a 
compost good fibry loam, a seventh of manure, a little small bones, and 
sand according to the nature of the loam. If heavy, a good per-centage 
may be used. 
Begonia Freehold. —Another useful Begonia, with bright scarlet 
flowers, which are most freely produced during the autumn and winter, if 
purposely prepared for flowering at that season of the year. It is dwarf, 
and beautiful plants can be grown in 5 and 6-inch pots. This plant must 
be raised from seed, and useful specimens can be produced from seed sown 
now for next autumn. They can be better managed to flower at that 
season by using tubers that have been raised the year previous. Keep the 
young plants growing the first year as long as possible, so that they will 
rest until May, and then start them and grow them gradually, and by 
so doing they will be in the best condition for flowering at that season of 
the year for which they have been prepared. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Beds well planted with hardy flower and fine-foliaged plants are not 
unfrequently more gay, in April and May especially, than at any time 
when filled with summer bedding plants. Much depends upon the state 
of the plants at the present time. If strong and well rooted they trans¬ 
plant readily, are better able to stand the winter, and bloom more 
abundantly in the spring. Choose dry weather for preparing and 
replanting the beds, as it cannot well be done properly during showery 
weather. Where an early display is desired bulbs must be largely 
employed, and these may be either mixed in thinly with the flowering 
plants or be planted in masses, the surface of the beds being either 
carpeted with fine-foliaged plants such as Festuca glauca, Dactylis 
glomerata, Cerastiums, Sedums, Pyrethrums, or with sprays of Ivy, 
Aucuba, Laurels, and other evergreens dibbled in thickly. Mixtures 
are best avoided. The centre of the bed should be filled with one 
colour of Hyacinths or Tulips, another shade in a single row surrounding 
it, while either Snowdrops, white, yellow, or blue Crocuses, and Scillas 
prrecox, siberica, and amcena can be used for an edging. The Narcissus 
being tall and very distinct, may well be banded with red or blue 
Hyacinths. Anemones, notably A.coronaria, form extremely pretty beds. 
Any of the above-mentioned carpeting plants divide freely, and may be 
dibbled in rapidly and neatly. 
Plants suitable for edging the beds are blue Pansies, red Daisies, 
Nemophila insignis, Aubrietias, coloured Primroses, dwarf Silenes, with 
which may be mixed white and yellow Crocuses and Snowdrops, and 
yellow Pansies, common Primroses, Cerastiums, Dactylis, white Daisies, 
Sedum glaucum, with which may be mixed blue Crocuses and Scillas. 
Plants available for filling the centres of beds are blue, white, and 
yellow Pansies, Alyssum saxatile, Myosotis white and blue, and Lim- 
nanthes Douglassii, amongst which may be dotted any shade of red 
Hyacinths, and Tulips, and Silenes, Saponaria pink and white, white 
Myosotis, with which may be mixed blue Hyacinths. The dwarf Wall¬ 
flowers in masses are particularly effective, and with the dark-coloured 
sorts and Saponaria calabrica the Narcissuses may be associated. 
Selections of Bedding Hyacinths and Tulips. —Hyacinths : Alba 
maxima, Grand Yainqueur, and Baroness Yan Tuyll, whites ; Charles 
Dickens, Regulus, Marie, and De Candolle, blues ; Robert Steiger, Von 
Schiller, Amy, and Fabiola, reds ; William I., violet-black ; Victor Hugo 
and Anna Carolina, yellows. Single Tulips : Due Van Thol, red and 
yellow; Vermilion Brillant, Purple Crown, rich crimson ; Cottage 
Maid, white and rose ; Artist, crimson ; Eleonore, violet-purple ; and 
Canary, yellow. Double Tulips : Due Van Thol, red and yellow ; La 
Candeur, white ; Yellow Tournesol ; Tournesol, red and yellow; Rex 
rubrorum, red ; Etoile Cramoisie, violet-crimson ; and Murillo, blush 
rose. 
Ecergrecn Shrubs and Conifer a: for Bedding Purposes. —There are 
many kinds of these available for furnishing the beds during the winter 
months, and which can be transplanted from the reserve garden and 
back again at almost any time of the year. These, again, are not so 
effective when in mixture as when grouped in masses or to fill spaces in 
a design. Dwarf and neat they should be, and in this state can be 
purchased cheaply in large quantities, and the frequent removals check 
any strong growth. The list includes Andromeda floribunda, Aucubas 
in variety, Buxus japonicus aurea and B.sempervirens aurea, Cotoneaster 
microphylla, Cupressus Lawsoniana and its varieties, Cryptomeria 
