896 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 8, 1883. 
see any trace of Y. cornuta in them, and they appear nothing more or 
les9 than inferior varieties of the Pansy, as Mr. Plant well observes. 
It rather puzzles me that any true form of the Yiola cornuta should 
drive out of the field such good old plants as Purple King Yerbena and 
yellow Calceolarias, but I am fully aware that it does not take much 
to please some peoole. 
The Violas Mr. Cannell speaks about so highly no doubt are good in 
their way, but if they were planted side by side with such charming 
varieties of Pansies as Bluestone, David Cavin, and others I could name, 
I have no doubt the tables would be turned. 
While on the subject I may refer to a sweet-scented Pansy, Miss 
Darling. It has the perfume of Mignonette. It is a noble yellow Fancy, 
free-blooming, and ought to be in every collection.— JAMES Percival, 
Smithy Bridge. 
I will only intrude a line or two on this subject (vide page 374), as 
I do not consider myself an authority; but the point is important, 
especially from an exhibition point of view. I was pleased to see Mr. 
H. Cannell, jun.’s contribution on this subject; and no doubt, as he 
says, it is easier to distinguish with the eye than to find words to exactly 
make that distinction plain. What do you say to a rough-and-ready 
distinction of considering all those with radiating distinctly marked 
lines from the eye as Violas, and the others Pansies—Show, Fancy, or 
seifs? Mrs. Gray, Countess of Kintore, Favourite, &c., would come 
tinder the former, though very beautiful.—W. J. Murphy, Clonmel. 
STOKED-UP SAP IN VINES. 
It is impossible to reconcile Mr. Taylor’s theory of stored-up sap in 
Vines (p. 372) w ith facts or common observation, and I believe there are 
few experienced gardeners who believe that Vines subsist on “ the 
stored-up food ” of the previous autumn till the shoots are 7 inches long 
and the leaves 5 inches broad, as Mr. Taylor states. What is meant by 
root-action is the absorption of food from the soil, and this begins as 
soon as the Vines are started. If this is not so, will Mr. Taylor explain 
the well-ascertained fact that a Vine cut off at the root does barely more 
than burst its bud-scales before it dies ? And will he also state why 
Vines “ bleed ’ before they break, and stop bleeding as soon as severed at 
the neck ? Does such a flood of sap come from the roots, and are the 
roots in action or not when they do so draw it up ? Is this sap what Mr. 
Taylor calls food,” which he speaks of coming from the roots to put 
colour in the leaves ? If it is not food, why does the loss of it enfeeble a 
Vine and cause it to push weakly shoots and pale small foliage? Some¬ 
times people wrongly apply the term “ root-action ” to root-growth or 
extension, which does begin later than that of the branches ; but Mr. 
Taylor makes it clear that by root-action he means drinking up food, and 
be tells us he acts consistently with that meaning by not applying water 
to the roots t.ll root-action begins. I shall be much obliged by an answer 
to these questions as they are put by—A Non-believer. 
LILIUMS. 
Lilies ! What a number of beautiful forms pass in review 
at the mention of this name! We can fancy we are enjoying 
afresh their associations, beginning early in the season with the 
charming little scarlet-flowered L. tenuifolium, and ending with 
the indispensable L. speciosum and its varieties still lingering 
with us. The most charming of all bulbous plants they are, and 
it is desirable to make the most of them. What can be more 
serviceable and lovely than the Trumpet Lilies P Take L. longi- 
florum and its several varieties for instance. Very easily I have 
had great enjoyment from this species, having the first flower 
expanded on the 16th of May, and have still pure white flowers 
by the dozen, and this is the £tli of October. The first flowers 
were from the excellent variety named L. Harrisii, and the same 
variety is now in its second flowering state. Some bulbs are 
even producing a third set of stems for this season. Of course 
a good number of bulbs have been worked to maintain such a 
lengthened display, and all the well-known forms of L. longi- 
florum have been utilised, commencing with L. Harrisii The 
next to flower was the type, and in order L. Takesima, L. exi- 
mium, L. aibo-marginaium, and L. Harrisii the second time. It 
is difficult to over-estimate the value of Lilies for garden deco¬ 
ration, as the numerous kinds flower at different periods through¬ 
out the season from April to October, and can thus be enjoyed. 
Of course a judicious selection is necessary. 
Cultural Requirements .—These are by no means so numerous 
as we have been led to believe. Some of the commoner species 
have been cultivated for centuries and are still favourites, little 
or no trouble being taken to insure their happiness. Speaking 
broadly Lilies are happiest when left alone, especially if the 
position they occupy is not too impoverished. When planting 
this should be considered, and a good supply of thoroughly 
decayed manure be well incorporated with the soil near them. 
Lilies are gross feeders, and enjoy a liberal supply of good 
manure. There is no doubt they also enjoy a well-drained sandy 
soil, and plenty of moisture when in full activity. A good 
method when planting the bulbs, especially if they have been out 
of the ground long, is to place a layer of gritty sand about them, 
which not only insures drainage for the bulbs, but appears to 
have some other advantages more difficult to explain than 
appreciate The question of positions as regards sunlight is 
one respecting which Lily growers disagree. In my opinion the 
position as regards the health of the plan's matters little, in 
relation to sunlight, if the roots are right; the flowers are most 
likely of less duration when fully exposed to sunshine than 
otherwise. I have seen equally as good examples of several 
species of Lilium grown in very open positions as in partially or 
even entirely shady ones. The seci’et is undoubtedly when they 
are grown in exposed positions to keep the roots cool, which is 
easily managed by carpeting the surface with Sedums, Saxifrages, 
or similar dwarf plants, for as simple a matter as it may seem, 
it is most advantageous to the Lilies. Of course when huge 
masses are farmed, so that the foliage is thick enough to 
thoroughly shade the surface, nothing of the kind is necessary, 
and the system of covering the ground is decidedly desirable 
from an artistic point of consideration. Bare ground is truly an 
eyesore to the lover of Nature. Here is an example of a style of 
gardening which should be greatly encouraged, and which has 
for the last three weeks been very charming. The ground is 
covered with Corydalis lutea and the old Plumbago Larpentse; 
rising above and from amongst this groundwork are Fuchsia 
virginalis, Amaryllis Belladonna, and Lilium speciosum rubrum, 
the two latter in grand masses. 
Lilies are more than ever grown in pots for decorative pur¬ 
poses, especially L. auratum. The varieties of L. speciosum, 
L. longitiorum, and even the old L. candidum are sharing largely 
in popular favour foi this purpose. No time should now be 
lost in getting them potted and placed in a cold frame until 
they have drawn roots well. The bulbs of L. longitiorum are 
generally placed three in a pot, when a good show of bloom is 
secured. Of course, unless home-grown bulbs of L. auratum are 
secured these cannot be potted until they arrive from Japan, 
which is usually well into November, or even December. A 
great mistake is often made in potting bulbs of this Lily. They 
are put into the flowering pots at once, and very often watered 
freely, the result being the bulbs frequently decay through the 
abundance of wet soil about them. They should be placed in 
small pots, which will just take the bulbs and allow of a layer of 
sand about them, and be kept in them till they draw roots well, 
when they may be transferred to the flowering pots, using a rich. 
Compost for that shift. 
Much is said and written about preserving the bulbs of 
L. auratum after flowering, which could be dispensed with. One 
thing is certain—the bulbs in nine cases out of ten grown in pots 
are almost useless for blooming the following year; the game is 
hardly worth the powder and shot when the low price at which 
they may be purchased is taken into consideration. Good bulbs 
are usually sold at 6cl. and 9 d. each. The plan I adopt is 
to make fresh purchases yearly, and plant out the old bulbs 
after once flowering into well-prepared rich ground, and pinch 
off all flowers which show themselves the following year, and in 
due course the bulbs get strength and reach again a good healthy 
flowering stage. The species and varieties described below are 
only a small portion of the kinds obtainable from specialists, but 
they constitute a good series, the flowering period extending over 
several months, and those the most enjoyable of the year in the 
outside garden. 
L. auratum, Lindl.—This grand species is too well known to 
require any description in these pages, being now grown by all 
lovers of flowers, the price being within the means even of all 
en husiasts. There are, however, some varieties of it which are but 
little known, such as rubro-vittatum and cruentum, the former 
with broad crimson bands taking the place of the yellow bands 
in the typical form of flower, the latter resembling it, but with 
maroon bands and purplish crimson spots. These are both 
magnificent varieties. Flowers from August to October. Japan. 
L. Ratemannice, Wallace.—A very charming slender-growing 
species, 3 to 4 feet high, with narrow leaves. Flowers erect, in 
umbels of from three to eight; perianth nearly cup-shaped, of a 
rich, deep apricot colour, and about 4 inches across. It resembles 
very closely some of the L. Thunbergianum varieties, to which 
species it undoubtedly belongs botanically. Native of Japan, 
flowering in this country from the end of July to September. 
L. Browni, Miell —A very highly appreciated species, growing 
from 2 to 3 feet high, with numerous deep gi-een lanceolate leaves, 
and large, mostly solitary, flowers; perianth tubular, bell shaped, 
6 inches or more long, with a spreading limb with revolute 
segments, pure ivory white inside, and deep purplish brown outside, 
the colours contrasting very finely. Native of Japan, and is 
closely related to L. japonicum, if indeed anything more than a 
