November 15, 1883. J 
413 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
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COMING EVENTS 
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Kingston (two (lays), Staines Shows. 
26tii Sunday after Trinity. 
Winchester Show (two clays). [Shows. 
Hampstead, Lincoln, Chesterfield, Manchester, Twickenham, and Oxford 
Birmingham, Bristol, Northampton, Ealing, and Nottingham Shows. 
APPLES AND PEARS FOR SMALL GARDENS. 
Ci^k^r^OT many years ago small gardens were consi¬ 
dered unsuitable for fruit trees, for the sufficient 
reason that, grown as standards on the Crab 
stock, the trees occupied too much space ; but 
since dwarfing stocks have become popular and 
their great merits have been recognised, fruit 
trees are grown in thousands of gardens that were 
before practically fruitless, and they might be 
grown in thousands more. Nothing adds more to the 
interest of small gardens than fruit trees in appro¬ 
priate positions, and well managed they are both beau¬ 
tiful and profitable. 
In or around most gardens there are walls or fences, and 
these might be covered with fruit. Then arches of fruit may 
be formed over walks, thus turning space to account that is 
usually wasted. These tunnels of fruit trees are very beau¬ 
tiful in spring when covered with blossom, and again in the 
autumn when studded with fruit, while through the summer 
the shade they afford is always enjoyable. In Mr. Baring’s 
garden at Coombe Cottage a leader has been taken from each 
pyramid that is growing in the borders on each side of the 
central walk and trained to iron rods formed over it. These 
are about 5 feet apart, and the series forms a fruit bower 
attractive and profitable. These arched cordons bear abun¬ 
dantly without in the slightest degree limiting the produc¬ 
tiveness of the lower parts of the tree—that is to say, the 
bush or pyramid portion would not bear one more fruit if 
the tops which bear so well were cut off, while the walk there 
would not be half so agreeable. This is a distinct gain, and 
why cannot arcades of fruit be formed over walks as well as 
bowers of Roses, Clematises, and Honeysuckles ? 
At Moray Lodge, Kensington, I am informed on good 
authority that Mr. M‘Elroy has a beautiful arch of Apples, 
the trellis having been formed of three-quarter-inch iron, five 
bars of which about a foot apart are fixed longitudinally to 
stays which arch over at intervals of about 6 feet. Standard 
trees are planted, the stems being secured to these uprights, 
and the branches of the trees trained right and left espalier 
fashion. By this plan the side borders are not shaded at all, 
while a quantity of fruit will be had when the trees arrive 
at a bearing state from the space above the walk. In this 
way fruit may be had in small gardens without reducing tli9 
extent of ground for vegetable or flower culture. This is a 
decided advantage, while the appearance of the garden is 
greatly improved. Thus fruit trees may be increased in 
number in small gardens, and the present is the time for 
amateurs to select the most suitable varieties, 'i his is easy 
to the expert, but for the inexperienced amateur it is very 
difficult. These persons require small trees and desire them 
to bear abundance of fruit yearly, though of course this cannot 
be insured ; but an amateur thinks more of a dozen fruit 
gathered from trees grown in his own garden than of a bushel 
bought in the market. 
For these small gardens it is no use having trees that 
have been grafted on strong-growing stocks. Pears should be 
grafted on the Quince, and Apples on the English Paradke 
stock. There are generally positions on walls where a few 
trees may be planted, and if the aspect is either south, west, 
or east Pears can be grown. If all three aspects are at com¬ 
mand a few Plums may be planted against the east wall. 
Of Pears cordon-trained trees will be found the best for 
amateurs, as several varieties can be had on a comparatively 
small space of wall; consequently a succession over a length¬ 
ened period is secured. Cordons may be procured from any 
nursery making a speciality in fruit trees. One-year maidens 
are the best, and care should be taken to have those that are 
budded close to the ground, so that when planted the union 
of the stock and scion is about an inch below the surface. 
The ground should be properly prepared before the trees 
are procured. If the soil is in fairly good condition it 
should be well trenched about 2 feet 6 inches deep. If the 
subsoil is not very good it should not be brought to the 
surface, but be well broken up with a fork. At planting 
time place some good loam around the roots. If the soil is 
not very suitable for fruit trees it should be prepared as well 
as means will allow, adding some loam or road scrapings 
with a little manure. The trees will keep in good condition 
for many years if they are properly attended, supplying 
fresh compost to the roots when needed, and giving a surface 
dressing of manure when the fruit commences swelling 
freely. Care should be taken that the trees be not over¬ 
cropped, a great mistake with amateurs. 
The trees should be planted 20 inches apart. The first 
year train at an angle of 60°, the next year bring them down 
to 45°, their permanent position. They should not be allowed 
to bear too freely at first, and especially at the point of the 
leading shoot, as every encouragement should be given to 
get the wall furnished. 
The following varieties will form a succession :—Beurre 
d’Amanlis, Beurre Hardy, Beurre Superfin, Marie Louise, 
Doyenne du Comice, Beurre d’Aremberg, Josephine de 
Malines, Nouvelle Fulvie, Glou Morceau, Passe Crassane, 
Bergamotte d’Esperen, and Olivier de Serres. 
Apples .—Apple trees on the English Paradise stock may 
be grown in very small gardens as pyramids or bush trees, 
and if a system of summer pruning is carried on they do not 
grow to a large size. In preparing the ground it should be 
trenched as advised for Pears, and if it can be trenched to 
the width of 6 or 8 feet so much the better. They may be 
planted 5 feet apart the first year; as they increase in size 
every alternate tree should be taken out and planted else¬ 
where, and if carefully done these will bear a full crop of 
fruit the next season. Cordons trained diagonally to a trellis 
are very interesting for an amateur, as the fruit grows to a 
large size. Horizontally-trained cordons along the margins 
of walks impart a neat finish to a garden, and often bear 
excellent crops of fine fruit; they should be trained to a wire 
stretched 15 inches above the soil. 
Planting should always be done if possible during dry 
weather. Place a little good soil around the roots, which will 
help to give them a start, firm the soil, and place a covering 
litter on the surface to protect from frost and drying winds. 
Amateurs should bear in mind that early planting is the 
safest and best. I do not think I can do better than repeat 
the advice which I have previously given—viz., one thing 
must be borne in mind, that is to procure trees that have 
been budded or grafted close to the ground, so that when 
planted the union may be covered with soil. If the trees 
are lifted once or twice annually after being planted, and the 
soil well stirred, it will help to make them handsome and 
fruitful specimens. 
The following twelve varieties, culinary and dessert, will 
be found a good selection for succession: — 
Dessert .—Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, Margil, King of the 
Pippins, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, Ashmcad’s 
Kernel, Duke of Devonshire, Northern Spy, Mannington’s 
Pearmain, Lodgemore Nonpareil, and Stunner Pippin. 
Culinary .—Lord Suffield, Ecklinville Seedling, Gravenstein, 
