November 22, 18S3. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
439 
quarter of the kitchen garden : they will come in July, August, 
September, and October. 
In the middle of April sow Veitch’s Autumn Giant and Walcheren ; 
the latter is useful, as the leaves cover the heads, keeping them dry 
and from being spoiled by the autumn frosts. This is the sowing 
that produces heads in November, December, and January. The 
plants must be protected in frosty weather. If they are taken up 
with good heads and laid in soil out of the frost they will keep a 
month or six weeks, and be none the worse for table use. Those 
with small heads ought to be placed in soil in frames, and covered 
with mats to protect them ; they will grow and produce good heads 
m January. 
A small pinch of seed is sufficient to sow at a time, and 2 or 
3 ozs. will be ample for all the sowings mentioned, unless the garden 
is extensive. Cauliflowers like plenty of manure and the ground well 
trenched, but some soils are poor, and will not do trenched ; in that 
case it is best to dig deep, and place the manure at the bottom of the 
trench. Always plant 2 feet apart when planting for a crop. 
Broccoli.— For insuring Broccoli for the kitchen in January, 
February, and March precautionary measures should now be resorted 
to for Broccoli as well as Cauliflowers, The first batch that require 
protection now should be sown on a warm border the first week in 
March. . Snow’s Winter White Broccoli sown then will come in for 
cutting in January, February, and March, after the Walcheren Cauli¬ 
flower ; plant out as soon as the ground is ready ; it should be well 
mulched, and trenched 2 feet deep. The end of October lift the 
plants with earth attached to the roots, and lay them in up to their 
leaves in a frame or some place where they can be protected with 
mats, straw, or Fir boughs in frosty weather. Snow’s is by far the 
best Broccoli, as it come in at a time when most useful. There are 
perhaps other sorts that will come in the same time as Snow’s if 
treated the same, but I have not seen them. 
For succession sow on a border during the first week of April a little 
of about three sorts to stand in the ground all the winter. Snow’s Winter 
White will come in in March and April ; also Adams’ Early and 
White Malta. Though these are winter sorts they are rather tender. 
Plant out in June. In October or November lay them on their sides, 
facing north or westward. The way to do this is to dig out a trench 
before the first row, put the spade the opposite side, prise them ; dig 
out another trench for the next row, and place the soil on the first, 
and cover them up to their leaves. If not protected in this way and 
a sharp winter follow this batch is sure to suffer. 
Again, sow three sorts during the last week of April. These will 
come in for cutting in April and May. Dilcock’s Bride, Dalmeny 
Park, Salter’s Imperial, with any other approved late sorts, are good 
for this sowing. During the third week of May sow two or three 
of the latest kinds. Cattell's Eclipse, Barr’s Champion, also Late 
Mammoth and Dwarf Russian are suitable. I have seen a splendid 
lot of these in May and June, when there were plenty of Walcheren 
Cauliflowers from the autumn sowing ; thus by attention to sowing 
and treating Broccoli and Cauliflower heads may be cut all the year 
round, unless the winter is unusually severe. There are several other 
old and new sorts that will come in at specified times.—A Foreman. 
WATERING PLANTS—CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
By the reference to the above subject at page 218 of the Journal of 
Horticulture the full meaning of my previous paper is obscured. With 
regard to watering, the remarks were intended generally. As there is 
no rule the guide I should take would be the plant. If it is a 
Chrysanthemum, water should be given to keep the plant fresh and 
vigorous. To the inexperienced an examination of the soil will be 
necessary to ascertain its condition of dryness. The opposite is to be 
avoided, as upon the solidity of the plant the character of the bloom 
depends. Perhaps there is no plant so easy to keep in bounds as the 
Camellia by limiting the supply of water. I refer to those inclined to 
produce second growth. I should not think of deluging such a plant, 
or to keep a starting Strawberry plant soaked with water, or a sickly 
Azalea recently potted watered on the principle of giving the supply 
to-day which it may require some future day. Such treatment consigns 
numbers of plants to the rubbish heap. The Cineraria so treated flags 
with the first bright sun in spring and soon dies. 
The chemical constituents of the Chrysanthemum were, to the best 
of my belief, correctly given. The experiment was made several years 
since, and I have not at hand the notes for reference. If it serves no 
other purpose it will assist the gardener in his selection of compost to 
suit the individual plant, and stand in good stead of an array of figures 
which look so well on paper. 
The Hyacinth, as an example, is built up strong in ammonia and 
potash ? The question is, When does the Hyacinth require those substances ? 
We cultivate the Hyacinth to develope the spike of flowers within the 
bulb, and from the conditions under which the bulbs are placed after 
potting decomposition of carbonic acid cannot be effected. We may 
therefore rest assured the safest compost to use is an almost insoluble 
one—pure silica with a little vegetable matter. 
Next in order comes the Lilium. The ash obtained from the bulb 
is not easily reduced. I suspect silica and iron are present, but silica 
dominates. Why does the Lilium bulb gradually become less in some 
soils and disappear? Silica is acted upon by lime (bones), ammonia, 
and carbonic acid, hence the benefit of preparing composts in a moist 
condition free from drenching rains some time previous to being required, 
allowing plant food to digest and become soluble. 
In the use of manures blood, bones, guano, and preparations from 
slaughter houses never fail with myself to produce mildew on Roses and 
Chrysanthemums, especially in the latter stages of growth. Amies’ 
chemical manure prevents mildew, and has given the most satisfactory 
results in the cultivation of the Rose and Chrysanthemum, washing the 
substance into the soil of the pot. The first-mentioned manures are used 
variously, solid and in solutions, and applied during the period of growth 
to many plants, including Ferns and Orchids.—C. Prinsep, Ilammerroich 
GARDENERS’ BENEFIT SOCIETY. 
Doubtless there are many like myself anxious to tender their thanks 
to Mr. Heale for his letter on page 339 ; also to our good Editor for his 
able article on page 319. I was previously quite ignorant of the existence 
of the United Horticultural Benefit Society, and I was, therefore, 
agreeably surprised to read Mr. Heale’s letter. I now see no need of 
carrying out my suggestion (page 332), as this meets my ideas of a 
Gardeners’ Benefit Society better than I could have expressed them 
myself. The chief thing that I see wanting now is for us all to unite and 
make it truly a Gardeners’ United Benefit Society ; then we may hope 
soon to see “A Sussex Gardener’s” (page 374) suggestion carried out, 
and have country branches established (but as he rightly says not at 
public-houses), with a horticultural library attached to each, always 
keeping one grand centre for all to look to for advice, &c., as I think it is 
always best when the younger know who is the head of the family. I 
think Mr. Divers has spoken very truly on page 402, when he says by 
joining such a society we are helping our brethren whose occupation is 
far more healthy, and their social life and morals are better than many 
mechanics. I think “ J. B.” (page 403) has offered a capital suggestion— 
namely, that your article on page 349 be reprinted and a copy sent to 
every gardener. I hope the Society will take the hint, though I suspect 
Mr. McElroy has found nearly all his spare time occupied of late ; but 
I will not encroach upon your kindness farther only to express my 
thanks (and I hope every gardener joins with me) for your kindness 
in giving publication to letters on this very important subject.—J. Smith, 
Hampstead. _ 
Much good has doubtless resulted from the publicity given in your 
columns to the “ United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society,” 
and with the object of bringing its claims prominently before the gar¬ 
dening fraternity “ J. B.’s ” suggestion (page 403) deserves the notice of 
the Committee. 
I would also offer two suggestions that may prove worthy of their 
attention. 
In the first place, that printed forms be circulated amongst gar¬ 
deners for the purpose of obtaining subscriptions from employers and 
others towards its funds; also that the standard of age for members 
withdrawing their moneys be reduced at least five years. Surely if 
needed at all it is needed before attaining to the mature age of seventy, 
for, healthy as our calling is, comparatively few are able to cope with a 
day’s work after sixty years of age ; and still fewer employers are 
generous enough to retain men in their service who cannot fully earn 
their pay.—T. L. 
[This point was strongly urged when the Society was founded ; but 
the Government actuary did not feel himself justified in admitting it, 
and the proposal, we believe, had to be withdrawn to insure the enrol¬ 
ment of the Society]._ 
I had no idea there was such an institution in existence as the United 
Horticultural Benefit Society until October 25th. I have written for the 
book of rules of the Society, as I hope to become a member. I think it 
ought to be advertised as a means of inducing others to join, also to have 
branches in different parts of the country the same as other benefit clubs, 
for I am confident it would be well supported in time. I have watched 
the various articles in your columns concerning the Gardeners’ Royal 
Benevolent Institution, and I was in hopes the Secretary would answer 
them, but they appear to be unnoticed. When I have looked over the 
rules of the Benefit Society, with your permission I shall, perhaps, say 
more about it.—J. S._ 
Will you kindly allow me a brief space in your columns for a word 
or two of explanation ? I regret that the introduction of a single word— 
harmless as I certainly intended it to be—should have been misunderstood 
by your correspondent Mr. Coates ; but it seemed to me not inappropriate 
in a matter affecting gardeners to call a spade a spade. 
Nothing could have been further from my thoughts than to cause the 
slightest breath of suspicion to rest on the management of this excellent 
institution ; the men who have the direction of its affairs in their hands 
merit the confidence and thanks of all true horticulturists for their 
laudable endeavours to stretch out a helping hand to their fellows in 
the craft in the hour of need ; and it appears from your editorial note 
that their “light” would not have been “hid under a bushel” had 
adequate funds existed for making the Society and its objects widely 
known. It remains, then, with every British gardener to help himself 
and the executive of this worthy institution by becoming subscribers, 
