December G, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
481 
stake two rows of strong roofing laths, or failing these, Kidney 
Bean rods; their formation is, in fact, just a question of means 
or expediency. 
When strong posts are employed they should he inserted 
2 feet deep, their height above ground to depend on circum¬ 
stances. In moderately fertile ground, and with such a variety 
as Carter’s Prolific, 4 feet will suffice ; but in rich soil for such 
strong growing varieties as Pastolf and Prince of Wales, the 
posts and stakes may be a foot higher with advantage. Mr. 
Bardney grows the last-named variety with canes 8 to 10 feet 
long. This, however, is exceptional; yet even these might by 
oblique training be disposed on a framework 5 feet high; and 
here it may be said that diagonal training should always be 
adopted when the canes are much higher than the fence, in 
preference to seriously shortening them. The tops may be 
taken off to the extent of a foot or so, but wherever the wood 
is brown and the buds prominent, it is a mistake to remove 
growth of that character, as such is more fruitful than the 
stronger portions below, where the buds are comparatively 
obscure. When the canes are not larger than the stakes which 
support the wires they may be trained vertically, and if every 
alternate cane is shortened at 2 feet from the ground, a better 
furnished row of fruit will be had than if all the canes were 
left their full length—that is, if they are numerous, or say 
4 inches apart; if more thinly disposed—6 inches or more 
asunder—this alternate shortening is not needed. 
For a'4-foot fence with two rows of wires or laths the lower 
may be 18 inches from the ground, and the upper 2 feet 3 inches 
above it; and as the canes 
may, if needed, be left nearly 
a foot above the top, and as 
the fruiting growths will be 
still higher, the hedge of 
fruit will be by no means a 
dwarf one. With posts 5 feet 
high three lengths of wire 
are preferable. When the 
frames for traili ng are 4 feet 
high the rows should be 
5 feet apart, and when 5 feet 
high they should be G feet 
asunder. This, it is hoped, 
will be sufficiently explicit 
for “ F. J.” and others whom 
it may concern. It is a 
simple record of experience, 
and on that account will not 
be the less acceptable. 
A word on securing Rasp¬ 
berries to stakes will not be 
inappropriate. Is the time- 
honoured orthodox plan of 
driving in a stake through 
each stool the best P It is 
quite certain that by this 
method there is a great 
crowding of young growths, 
and these are not unfre- 
quently broken or injured by defoliation in gathering the 
fruit. Is it not preferable to drive the stakes in line mid¬ 
way between the plants, one stake between each two stools, 
and to these stakes secure the fruiting canes right and left, 
thus allowing the young canes to extend between them, where 
they are not so much liable to injury and are exposed more 
fully to light and air P This, too, is an old system, but not 
by any means generally adopted. As will be seen on reference 
to fig. 95, six canes are grown from a stool, and these disposed 
as shown will produce more fruit than if bundled round a stake, 
the bending causing back buds to break and bear fruit that 
would otherwise be fruitless; while the growths for the following 
year have a better chance to mature than when crowded with 
the fruiters in the customary manner. When this method of 
training is pursued the stools should not be less than G feet 
apart. On paper the plan may appear fanciful, but in practice 
it is anything but a “fad,” or it would not find favour with 
that stei'n utilitarian and first-rate cultivator, Mr. Richard 
Gilbert, at Burgliley. 
There may be other readers who have something much better 
to say on Raspberry Gaining ; if so, let them say it. To no one 
will the information be more welcome than—J. Wright. 
Gas Stoves in Conservatory.—M ay I beg the fav ur of any of 
yoai able contributors or readers who ha\ e used tl etn, to give their 
experience with regard to gas stoves for heating the conservatory 1 We 
have recently received one of Ritchie’s patent condensing hygienic gas 
stoves for our conservatory, and I am rather apprehensive as to its 
effect, upon the health of the plants. Any information derived from 
experience will be gratefully received by—F. W. C. 
LEAF BOIL v. FUNGI. 
In many gardens the preparation of leaf soil is only of secondary 
importance, while in others considerable care and attention are devoted 
to it. 
The leaves collected here are from all kinds of forest trees—Oaks, 
Beeches, Elms, Sycamores, and others. It would be impossible to keep 
them separate, and even if we could the quantity produced from any 
one kind would be insufficient for our purpose. We take no trouble 
here now in the preparation of leaf soil, and have long since discon¬ 
tinued stacking it in heaps as practised in many gardens. Amongst 
a number of trees we have a square enclosure in close proximity to 
the pleasure grounds, and to which a horse and cu’t can enter when 
desired. The leaves are wheeled into this enclosure as they are 
collected, about a barrowful deep, no attempt being made to keep the 
place neat, for in that we should fail. The joiner’s house is close by, 
and this leaf yard forms a grand run for his fowls, which turn over 
the heaps and pick out the grubs. The leaves never become heated, 
but are fully exposed to the action of the weather. Hitherto we have 
found the soil prepared under this easy process admirably adapted 
for the cultivation of plants. 
Several years ago we were engaged in planting some evergreen 
shrubs during the month of May, and in the operation placed about 
the roots of the plants some leaves that had been collected in the 
previous autumn. At the time nothing wrong was observed, but 
in the autumn following alterations of another nature compelled the 
removal of some of the shrubs transplanted the previous spring, and 
we found the leaf soil round their roots a mass of fungus. The heap 
of leaves from which these were taken had remained undisturbed, and 
some time after wrn intended removing a good portion of them to the 
kitchen garden to enrich a piece of ground that had not been trenched 
for years. The heap inside was one mass of fungus, especially where 
they had become pressed firmly together, and remained in a semi-dry 
state. Wherever the rain had soaked through them and decomposition 
was well advanced, not a trace of fungus could be discovered. The 
conclusion then arrived at, and confirmed by later experience, leads 
me to the opinion that when leaves are stacked tightly together, and 
winter rains and air excluded from the interior, they are in. the best 
possible condition for generating fungus. Only a short time ago, 
when burying leaves in some of the plantations and shrubberies, we 
found upon examination that those buried last year were very much 
decomposed and no fungus to he seen, but on the other hand, when, 
buried near large trees, they were much drier and decomposition less 
advanced, fungus was to he found. Is it not the case with pieces 
of wood and branches of trees that have become buried and decom¬ 
pose in a semi-dry state, that fungi in nine cases out of ten is the 
result, and the very opposite when thoroughly soaked with water ? 
Since we left the preparation of the leaf soil to the action of 
the weather and fowls we have never seen any fungi in. our 
compost. I do not believe there is any fear of it establishing itself 
amongst leaf soil if the leaves are not laid too thickly together. 
AYhen mixed with road-scrapings, as described by “ Single-handed,” 
1 should not fear the presence of fungus.—W. Bardney. 
ORCHIDS OUT OF DOORS. 
Messrs. F. Sander & Co. write:—“We herewith send you 
an article from M. Anton Joli, garden superintendent to Baron 
- Nathaniel de Rothschild of Ilohe Warte, and will thank you 
