December S, 1333. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
495 
work, which was only partially fixed, consists of rather deep side sashes, 
all of which on each side are intended to open. The rafters, which 
for such a wide span appear somewhat slight,' are to be secured and 
strengthened by truss rods. They are fixed at rather a low angle, so as to 
secure'as far as possible an equable inside atmosphere ; they are placed at 
intervals of about 20 inches from each other. Provision for top ventila¬ 
tion is made by alternate opening sashes on both sides of the ridge, each 
being about 4 feet by 2 feet wide. It is intended to throw a somewhat 
flat arched trellis across the house for training the Vines at a good 
distance from the glass, so as not only to secure a clear space between 
that and the foliage for free ventilation, but also to have the Vines at a 
convenient distance from the floor level. 
The glazing is to be executed on an improved principle of Mr. 
Chaffin’s own invention, and which consists of long squares about 3 feet 
by 20 inches. These are laid between strips of prepared felt, placed 
longitudinally on the rafters and then secured in place by an iron cap 
and screws inserted at regular intervals. Judging from the appearance 
of a small house glazed on this system, if good stout glass be used it 
must insure abundance of light, great strength, security from wet, and 
ultimate economy, as it forms comparatively an indestructible roof. 
Mr. Chaffin has chosen good local firms for the performance of bis 
work, Messrs. Hayward & Wooster being entrusted with the woodwork, 
and Mr. Long the masonry, all of which appears thoroughly well 
executed. The subsoil, which is heavy and tenacious, is being 
thoroughly drained, and preparations for making the borders inside in 
sections are already in progress. I need scarcely add that when finished 
this house will be a very imposing and noble structure. To sed it, 
although still unfinished, afforded me great pleasure, and I left fully 
impressed that if superlative Grapes depended on thoughtful and judicious 
arrangements, good soil, excellent situation and climate combined with 
skilful cultivation, we should ere long see something good from this 
magnificent vinery.—C. W. 
WORKjoiithe WEEK. 
i Mcnl 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
All kitchen gardens have now lost their summer aspects. Many of 
the quarters are empty. The fruit trees and bushes have cast their leaves, 
and the effects of winter are everywhere visible. But this is no reason 
why the kitchen garden should be untidy ; on the contrary, it should 
now be put in order for the winter. All old vegetable and fruit-tree 
leaves should be collected, weedy pieces hoed and raked or dug, and all 
w r alks made clean. This has been our work during the last week. Our 
kitchen garden is now as clean as it can be, and so far as dressing is con¬ 
cerned we will have little or nothing more to do in it during the winter. 
Manuring, digging, and trenching will now be carried on during every 
favourable opportunity. 
Celery .—Where the rainfall is heavy this may show signs of decaying 
in the centre, and much of it may be lost in consequence if something is 
not done to prevent it. Flat ridges are a mistake. They should be made 
to taper up almost perpendicularly, and they should be beaten very firmly 
that a hard surface may be formed to throw off the wet. When finally 
earthed up a quantity of sand thrown around the plants is an advantage, 
and finely sifted ashes answer the same purpose. One good wisp of 
straw put round the collar of each plant during frost does more to protect 
it than a great quantity of loose material put about it carelessly. As a 
rule we always send the inferior heads to the kitchen, and the best to the 
pantry. 
Young Peas .—When these are just ccming through the soil the Dutch 
hoe should be run along each side of the rows when the ground is dry, 
and as soon as they are a few inches high the earth should be drawn up 
into a good ridge on each side of them. This affords excellent protection 
from wind. No attempt should be made to protect them during severe 
■weather, as they will do very well without this, and coddling only makes 
them more tender. Stakes should be put to them as soon as possible 
after they are fairly through the soil. Where those sown a while ago 
have failed another lot may be put in now. Indeed, Peas may be sown 
with success almost in every month during the winter, the main object 
being to have the soil in good order. 
Herbs .—A quantity of Mint roots should now be taken up for forcing. 
They may be put into any shallow box with a little light soil over them, 
and they will grow readily in any house or pit where the temperature is 
from 60° to 70°. Tarragon may be treated in the same way. Sweet 
Basil may be raised from seed under the same conditions, or this may be 
sown in a G-inch pot and grown there until the plants are 2 or 3 inches 
high, when they may be pricked into boxes, and they will give a large 
supply. Much of the Parsley is now turning yellow, and where it is likely 
to become scarce the roughest of it should be gathered and dried at once 
for seasoning. 
Forcing Kidney Beans .—A good batch of these should now be put in 
for fruiting in the early spring months. Osborn’s Forcing is decidedly 
the best of all to deal with at this season. Put a few leaves in the 
bottom of a number of 3-inch pots, fill them half full of light sandy soil, 
then put six or eight seeds into each and fill up almost level with the 
soil. They should then be placed in a temperature of G5° near the light, 
and give no water until growth has advanced a few inches. When the 
soil is saturated before the seeds germinate many of them generally 
decay at this season. A dry atmosphere suits them at first, and they may 
be retained in the small pots until a few leaves have been formed, when 
8-inch pots will suit them best for fruiting in. Those in bloom just now 
must have a very dry atmosphere, or the fruit may not form. Give 
liquid manure to those plants bearing heavy crops. 
Bhubarb. —Where this is valued as early as it can be had, a hatch of 
roots may be put in for forcing at once. Those roots we advised to have 
lifted out of the ground some time ago will force most readily. A good 
hotbed of leaves and littery manure is a capital position on which to place 
the roots, and the tops should be covered with any old box or barrel. A 
dark end in the Cucumber pit or Mushroom house will also produce good 
Rhubarb, and there are sometimes odd corners near fires, flues, or over 
boilers which suit well for bringing on the produce. The crowns should 
merely be covered with soil, and as soon as growth begins liberal quan¬ 
tities of liquid manure should be given. 
Seahale. —This valuable winter vegetable may be forced and treated 
in all respects like the Rhubarb ; but while good Rhubarb may be grown 
in the light, Seakale is best when kept entirely in the dark. 
Leaf Soil. —Now that this can be formed by collecting the fallen leaves 
and putting them in a heap to decay, I may say that for heavy soils 
nothing is better than a good coating of leaf soil; and leaves collected and 
stored now will be in excellent order for digging in with Potatoes and 
other crops next spring at planting time. It is astonishing how clean 
Potatoes turn out of leafy soil. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines.—Earliest House. —The buds are swelling, 
and sufficient fire heat should be given to admit of a free circulation of 
air by day and a little at night if the weather be mild, as a genial con¬ 
dition of the atmosphere is essential to the proper development of the 
flowers. The temperature should not be increased beyond 50° to 55° by 
day from fire heat, or 40° to 45° at night, until the blossoms are well 
advanced ; the night temperature after the dowers expand should then 
be raised to 45° to 50°, and by day to 55°, with 5° to li|| rise from sun 
heat. Old trees that have been forced a number of years vvill stand more 
heat than young ones, yet it is best to err on the safe side, particularly in 
the early stages, and to make up for any lost time after the fruit has 
passed the stoning process ; and much depends upon the state and 
position of the roots, as if inside, as those of early Peaches should be, and 
near the surface in good calcareous loam, forcing may be carried on much 
more rapidly and with less risk than when they are outside. Discontinue 
syringing after the blossoms show the anthers, but damp the walls and 
other available surfaces in the morning and afternoon, and until syringing 
is discontinued it should be done early, so that the trees become dry 
before night. Examine fermenting leaves on inside borders, keeping 
them frequently turned over for the purpose of obiaining atmospheric 
moisture, and to prevent injury to the surface roots by becoming too 
hot. 
Pruning Late Trees. —Continue the pruning in late houses, which 
should consist of cutting out the weak wood and thinning where too 
crowded, laying in the wood sufficiently thin to admit of the full develop¬ 
ment of the foliage, so that fruit and growth may have full exposure to 
light and air. Lay in the wood its full length where there is space, and 
make provision for a proper supply of young growths by the removal of 
all gross watery shoots and shortening back to well-ripened wood, or the 
gross shoots if they must be retained, should be cut back to near their 
base. The fan system of training is the best for Peaches. See that 
inside borders are in a proper condition as to moisture, for if allowed to 
become dry it is likely the buds will fall. 
Cherry Houses.— The house and trees having been thoroughly cleansed 
as advised in a former calendar, forcing may be commenced, but in a 
gentle manner. The night temperature may be kept at 40°, and the day 
at 50°, and when the house rises to 55° by natural means air should 
be freely admitted, taking it oil or closing the house at that temperature. 
Moderate syringings will occasionally be necessary to maintain a moist 
genial condition of the atmosphere, but the trees must not be kept con¬ 
stantly wet; indeed, they should be syringed early on fine days, and in 
dull weather syringing will not be necessary. 
Cucumbers. —Perhaps more mishaps arise in the growth of winter 
Cucumbers from the inadequate quantity of piping, which, to keep up 
anything like the heat necessary for these plants, is radiated at so high a 
temperature as to produce a parched condition of the atmosphere 
highly injurious to vegetation. Damping in such cases needs to be more 
frequently resorted to, and the alternate roasting and stewing process is 
one more likely to end in disaster than anything else, hence plenty of 
piping is always more economical than too little. Pay particular 
attention to thinning the fruit so soon as they have set, and cutting them 
as soon as they become fit for use, which will greatly facilitate the 
swelling of the young fruit. Remove all staminate blossoms as they show, 
and bad or injured leaves as they appear, tying down all shoots as they 
require it. Very little stopping of the shoots will be required now, 
excepting on vigorous-growing plants. The object should now be to 
encourage free growth. Avoid, however, overcrowding, light and air 
being essential to properly developed foliage. See that the plants do 
not sniffer by want of water, but care must be taken not to overwater at 
this season." Atmospheric moisture should be given sparingly; at the 
same time a genial condition of the atmosphere is essential to success. 
