562 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 27, 1883. 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon - 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
To Correspondents. —We desire to thank our correspondents for supply¬ 
ing us with such an abundance of material as to allow of our pasres being 
prepared several days earlier than usual, and thus to enable our staff to enjoy 
a well-earned holiday during the festive season. The publication of several 
valuable communications must of necessity be postponed, also answers to 
correspondents that arrived at this office after Saturday morning. 
Mistletoe Propagation (B. IT. W .).—Your letter shall have attention, and 
the information you require be published in an early issue, in time to be of 
service. 
“ Mushrooms for the Million ” (A. T., Liverpool ).—The articles under the 
above heading, which you “ think ” you saw in the Journal some time ago, 
were long since published in pamphlet form. The first edition was fully 
reviewed in these pages, and the second edition has been more than once 
referred to. The pamphlet, which has had the largest sale of any gardening 
work of the year, is published at this office, price Is., post free Is. 2 cl. 
Selections of Vegetables (E. Adams ).—You will find a selection in 
another column by an excellent gardener; but we sha'l shortly publish 
estimates of the leading kinds by a cultivator who devotes much attention 
to vegetable culture, and who has opportunities for testing a large number 
of varieties. 
Phalaenopses (S. E. Merton ).—These beautiful Orchids require stove 
treatment, but certainly not what you term a “roasting” temperature. 
Mr. Bardney grows them admirably in a mixed collection of ordinary stove 
plants, and we have an article detailing his method of culture awaiting 
publication. 
Vine Unhealthy {No. 2).—We never saw more unsatisfactory wood. 
It is weak and immature, and the Vine is evidently in an enfeebled state. 
We suspect its roots are not nearly so abundant and healthy as you 
anticipate, and it is a question if it becomes vigorous. We should remove 
it and either plant another or train up an additional rod from a strong Vine, 
as one good set of roots in suitable soil will support two rods as well as 
one. The Grass appears to be Panicum plicatum. 
Evening Exercise for Young Gardeners (IV. R. (?.).—We have received 
your “poetry,” and we note your remark that this is the “ first time you 
have tried anything of the kind.” We strongly urge upon you the extreme 
desirability of letting it be the last. Waste no more time in this form of 
exercise, but follow the advice of “ E. B.” on page 485, and endeavour in 
plain prose and good English to write the history and culture of plants 
and crops that will be of substantial value to you in after life, and also to 
others. 
Moss Litter for Mushroom Beds (J. II. Bell ).—Great success has been 
attained with this material as a medium for growing Mushrooms, but its 
use has been limited, so far as we are aware, to the ordinary flat beds 
formed under the cover of a roof. It would not be easy, we think, to form 
ridges of it out of doors that would throw off the rain sufficiently, nor do 
we think the material you describe is in the best condition for the purpose 
in question, though the little lime that has been sprinkled in the stables 
we do not apprehend would be injurious. First try a bed in a cellar or 
shed, and if you do not succeed with it, it would not be encouraging to use 
it in the open air as you suggest. 
Quick Mushroom Production (D ., Manchester ).—We have known 
Mushrooms produced in five weeks from inserting the spawn, but this is 
unusual, and such precocious beds are not usually lastingly productive. 
The spawn does not as a rule penetrate quite through the mass, but spreads 
near the surface, owing no doubt to the temperature and moisture, these 
being specially favourable. When the spawn is seen to be “ running ” 
freely, as it may be often in three days after inserted, and soil is added, 
keeping the surface of the bed warm and moist, Mushrooms form quickly. 
We have more than once forced a bed into bearing in the manner indicated 
to insure an unbroken supply, but it has nearly always been at the sacrifice 
of the general productions of the bed. 
Wintering Chrysanthemums (A. D., Isle of Man). —When the plants 
are removed from the greenhouse cut down the stems and place the pots 
in a cold frame, admitting air on every favourable occasion, and drawing 
off the lights on fine days to keep the growths sturdy. They must, how¬ 
ever, be protected from severe frost by packing litter or ashes round the 
sides of the frame and covering the glass as needed. A few degrees of 
frost will not injure them, but the growths that have been produced in a 
greenhouse are always more or less tender. When stout rooted suckers 
can be had they may be placed singly in small pots, kept close for a time, 
then have all the light and air they will endure without sustaining any 
check in their growth. 
Starting Amaryllises (Idem). — Keep the soil in the pots dry, and store 
them in your greenhouse either on a shelf or under a stage where they 
do not receive drip from plants above them. In the spring, when 
signs of growth are apparent, which will probably be about March, 
it will be advantageous if the pots can be plunged in a gentle hotbed, or 
they may be placed on a shelf in the warmest part of your greenhouse, 
water being given cautiously at first, then more copiously as the growth 
increases. They will start in a temperature of 60°, with a corresponding 
increase by sun, and must have a light position throughout the spring 
summer, and autumn. 
Cutting Down Trees {Idem). —Whether your proposed plan of leaving 
8 or 10 feet of the trunks as supports for Clematises would answer depends 
entirely on the circumstances of the case. If the shrubs are sufficiently 
thin that the Clematises would receive the requisite light and air for their 
healthy growth, then you might expect satisfactory results, but not other¬ 
wise ; and in all probability they would need fresh soil, as that of the 
border is probably not exactly suitable for the plants in question. Whether 
boring a hole through the stem of a tree with an auger and filling with 
salt would kill the tree or not we are not able to say; but if the hole were 
large and near the ground it probably would do so. We have heard that 
it will, but have not tried the experiment. If the young growths that 
issue from the stem of a cut-down tree are constantly rubbed off before 
leaves are developed the trunk is soon divested of its vitality. If any of 
our readers have tried the salt method of killing trees they might let us 
know the results. 
Metastasis (J. W. B.). —This term is a physiological one, which is 
employed to designate the change which takes place in the cell contents of 
plants after assimilation. The materials absorbed by the roots of plants 
are chiefly compounds in which oxygen forms an important part, whereas 
it is found that in the substances stored in the plant as a reserve supply 
for various purposes contain but little of that element. The crude sap 
when passed into the leaves undergoes a process of deoxidation under the 
influence of sunlight, assisted by the green substance of the leaves (the 
chlorophyll), a considerable proportion of the oxygen is released and fresh 
compounds are formed, this is termed assimilation. Many of these 
compounds are found to undergo other changes in the course of their 
transference to different portions of the plant; and as these alterations 
occur indifferently in cells containing chlorophyll and in those having 
none, both in the light and in the dark, and are, moreover, usually attended 
by the absorption of a small quantity of oxygen, the term metastasis has 
been applied to distinguish them from the primary changes produced by 
assimilation. 
Covering a Fruit Tree Border {C. T. II., Weymouth ).—For protecting 
fruit against a west wall and on the border from the ravages of birds we 
advise the use of 2 by 3-inch material for rafters. Posts 4 inches square 
should be placed at intervals of every 6 feet as far as required. These 
may be rendered firm by means of strips 1 inch thickness secured from 
post to post along the top with nails or screws. The rafters should be 
placed so that the one end fits exactly on each of the upright posts, and 
the other firmly bedded in the wall. Consequently the rafters occur with 
the posts every G feet. As regards the size of wire netting necessary to 
exclude small birds, three-quarter-inch mesh will be sufficient. Thus far your 
questions are simply answered. If, however, the wall and border you 
propose to cover is not an extensive one you would find the following plan 
likely to answer your requirements more fully than the one you have pro¬ 
posed, and will cost but little more. Instead of having the height of the 
front 4 feet you would find it much better to have it G feet, thereby allow¬ 
ing greater freedom to move about inside. The upright posts for the 
front should not be less than 7 feet 6 inches long. These must be sunk 
in the ground to the depth of 18 inches (the ends being previously 
dipped in creosote) at intervals of G feet apart, as previously advised, as 
also the rafters and strips; then light moveable square frames of deal, 
made out of strips of half-inch thickness and 2 inches wide, with a similar 
piece across the centre to fit in the spaces in front to the uprights, to 
which they can be attached by means of a hook in each corner, thus 
rendering them easy of removal at any time it is desired. The ends 
should be similarly treated, with the exception of adopting a portion to 
the size and purposes of a door. The roof should then be covered with 
three-quarter-mesh wire netting, and also the framework in front, ends, 
and doors. Care must be taken to procure the netting 3 feet wide, two 
breadths of which will just cover the frames in front. This plan will be 
found to be a more efficient and durable one than yours. A protector thus 
made will stand for years, whereas with string netting endless trouble 
would arise from so many causes incidental to its use. See notes on this 
subject on page 329, our issue of October 18th of the present volume. 
Cucumbers for Seed [Idem). —To grow Cucumbers for seed a plant 
should be set apart for that purpose, and it must be healthy and vigorous. 
Seed should be sown in March, and as soon as the seedlings are ready planted 
out, either in a Cucumber house or on a hotbed. Encourage it to grow freely 
until several embryo fruit are shown, then carefully fertilise these with the 
pollen from the male blossoms. As soon as the fruit commences swelling 
select two or three of the finest, according to the strength of the plant, for 
bearing seed, and remove all the others. Attend carefully to the supply of 
water and air, as for the ordinary routine of Cucumber-growing. As soon 
as the fruit becomes deep yellow or golden in colour cut it, and let it be 
exposed to the sun for a few days, afterwards cutting it open, removing and 
washing the seeds, and drying them in the sun or on a dry shelf under glass. 
We would, however, remind you that unless you have the necessary space 
and means at disposal you will find it much cheaper to purchase, the few 
seeds necessary for a small garden than growing them. Occasionally a 
Cucumber plant that has borne freely will produce a few club-shaped, fruit. 
These generally contain seed, but it does not usually ripen well late in the 
season. After raising one or two plants early in the season any number can 
be provided for succession by striking cuttings. 
Names of Fruits (T. Hobbs). —1, Dr. Harvey; 2, Margil; 3, Court of 
Wick. {T. W. Sanders). —Apple, Ribston Pippin. Pears.—1, Charles Van 
Mons; '2, Bergamotte Esperen; 3, Martin Sec; 6, Vicar of Winkfield. 
Zephirin Louis is correct. It has a rather coarse-grained flesh, but is of 
good quality otherwise. ( J. Hartland). —1, Beurrb Diel; 2, St. Germain; 
3, Easter Biurre; 4, Red Doyenne; 5, He Plus Meuris. The Apple is 
Golden Reinette. {J. E. L.). —1, Soldat Esperen ; 2, Josephine de Malines ; 
both very fine specimens. {Col. Gleig). —Gravenstein. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— December 26th. 
A brisker demand for high-class produce of 1 11 kinds has been experienced, wi h a 
tendency to firmness in the prices of : u erior goods. 
