JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
42 
[ July 14, 1881. 
majority of imported varieties have failed in the United States, hut a 
few have become justly popular in regions where they can be grown. 
Thus the two great species which to-day are furnishing ninety-nine 
hundredths of the Strawberries of commerce and of the garden, both 
in this country and abroad, came from America, the Fragaria chilensis 
reaching our Eastern States by the way of Europe, and in the form of 
the improved and cultivated varieties that have won a name abroad. 
We are crossing the importations with our own native stock. Presi¬ 
dent Wilder’s superb seedling, which has received his name, is an 
example of this blending process. This berry is a child of the La 
Constante and Hovey’s Seedling, and, therefore, in this one beautiful 
and most delicious variety we have united the characteristics of the 
two chief Strawberry species of the world, the F. virginiana and 
F. chilensis. 
This is only a very small portion of what is written on the 
Strawberry in the volume under notice, and the history and 
culture of other small fruits are fully described. The work will 
form a handsome addition to any garden library, and those who 
are interested in the subject of small fruits and have plenty of 
time for reading, may pass a few pleasant hours in perusing the 
pages of this attractive volume. 
TRACHELIUM C^RULEUM. 
As a blue-flowered plant both for the conservatory and the 
flower border during the summer and autumn months this easily 
cultivated perennial is deserving of notice. It is a very old plant, 
and in a neglected state is devoid of attraction, but vigorously 
grown specimens with heads of flowers from 8 inches to a foot 
across cannot be passed in silence. Small plants in 5-inch pots 
and large specimens in 8-inch pots are equally valuable according 
to the position which the plants are required to occupy. They are 
readily raised from seed, which is best sown about May, but may 
be sown now, and good flowering plants may be had next year ; 
or they may be propagated from cuttings inserted at the present 
time. The plants may either be grown in pots during the summer, 
plunged in ashes in the open air, or planted in rich soil in May 
and potted in September. The plants are hardy or nearly so, but 
are best wintered in pots in a pit from which frost is just excluded. 
If wintered in a greenhouse they must have a position within 
a few inches of the glass, or the growths will probably be so 
much drawn as to render the plants comparatively worthless. 
—A Foreman. 
WORK.FQfl.THE WEEK.. 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The continuance of hot dry weather has rendered it extremely 
difficult to maintain a succession of young vegetables, which could 
only be secured where a timely and liberal supply of water has been 
afforded. The recent rains have permitted the planting o f Broccoli 
and other Brassicas for winter and spring use. This is a good time 
to plant the main crops of Broccoli, and in long-established gardens 
where the soil is rich digging will not be necessary. Cauliflowers 
for autumn and early winter, as well as for lifting before severe 
weather for protecting in frames, must be planted at once. Proceed 
with planting Celery for late use in prepared trenches. Make a first 
sowing of White Naples and Tripoli Onions, if large bulbs are in 
demand the ground must be well enriched. Early Horn Carrot may 
be sown on a sheltered border for drawing during the early spring 
months. Sow Cabbage for an early supply ; Ellam’s Early Dwarf, 
Hill’s Incomparable, and Wheeler’s Imperial are suitable ; in warm 
localities from the 20th to the 24th is early enough. Sow Bath or 
Brown Sugarloaf and Neapolitan Lettuces for late use, Stanstead 
Park being also good for this sowing. Rosette Coleworts will be 
fit for pricking out from the seed beds preparatory to being trans¬ 
planted, and when the requisite numbers are withdrawn thin the 
remainder to 2 or 3 inches apart. Sow Turnips for late use in an 
open situation, and attend to prior-sown crops in thinning, and 
dusting with quicklime early in the morning as a preventive of the 
Turnip fly. Sow Chervil on a sheltered border, and the plants pro¬ 
duced will give a supply for the greater part of the winter. Take 
up Shallots and Garlic when fit and store after well drying. Toma¬ 
toes trained to walls or stakes should be well attended to in stopping 
all lateral growths, and when sufficient fruits are set stop the leading 
shoots so as to direct all the energies of the plant to the maturation 
of the fruit. Examine ridge and Gherkin Cucumbers frequently, 
keeping the shoots moderately thinned and stopped as required. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Late Grapes and intermediate crops about colouring should 
have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and in the case of those ripen¬ 
ing ventilate freely whenever the weather permits. Red spider is 
very troublesome this season, therefore apply sulphur to the hot- 
water pipes, and sprinkle the inside borders with guano, damping 
well with the syringe. The ammonia vapour is inimical to insect life 
and beneficial to the foliage. Where Grapes are swelling abundant 
supplies of water or liquid manure must be given to the borders 
in dry weather, mulching the surface with short manure. The 
temperature of houses containing late Grapes passing through the 
stoning process must not be allowed to fall too low at night, or 
scalding will be sure to follow'. Admit air freely by day, and keep 
the temperature at 70° at night. Muscats should be in the last stages 
of ripening assisted with a little extra fire heat, allowing an advance 
by day to 90? or 95 9 with plenty of air, which insures their acquiring 
a rich vinous flavour and the fine golden colour characteristic of 
perfect finish. Vines in pots for early forcing are now ripening their 
wood, and although a drier atmosphere is desirable a good syringing 
on fine evenings should be given to keep the foliage free from insect 
pests, and the watering must be maintained at the roots. Avoid 
extremes, exposing the growths to all the light possible to develope 
the eyes. Examine ripe Grapes frequently, keep laterals closely 
stopped, and if very ripe shade during bright sun to preserve the 
colour and bloom. Young Vines planted this season should be 
allowed to grow freely if they are to be cut back to three or five eyes 
at the winter pruning. Any intended for fruiting next season should 
be stopped to 7 or 8 feet, and kept closely pinched to that extent; 
but above this length the laterals may be allowed to remain, which 
will aid the formation of roots. 
Melons .—It is important that the late plants should be in their 
positions, therefore clear out exhausted plants and prepare for a fresh 
start as soon as possible. In the meantime keep the seedling plants 
near to the glass and support with small stakes, removing all 
laterals as soon as discernible up to the height required to reach the 
trellis. Secure a bottom heat of 85° to 90° for young growing plants, 
with a moist atmosphere, shading only for an hour or two at mid-day, 
or only to prevent flagging. Syringe freely, except when the flow'ers 
are setting or when the fruit is ripening, being careful not to allow 
one or two fruits on a plant to take the lead. Keep a strict look-out 
for canker, and promptly subdue it by rubbing quicklime into the 
affected parts. Ventilate freely when the fruit is ripening, and main¬ 
tain a dry condition of the atmosphere, not only to secure flavour but 
as a safeguard against cracked fruits. 
Cucumbers .—Fire heat will not now' be necessary in this department, 
but the temperature must not be allowed to fall below 65° at night, 
and 70° to 75° should be secured in the daytime. Afford copious 
supplies of liquid manure about twice a week, and maintain plenty of 
atmospheric moisture in hot weather, syringing on fine afternoons, 
and closing at about 4 p.m. Earth up plants that have been in bear¬ 
ing some time, maintaining a firm condition about the roots, expelling 
worms with lime water. Remove bad leaves, exhausted growths, and 
deformed fruits, keeping the shoots stopped as necessary, and a good 
supply of young growth for successional fruiting trained in, avoiding 
however, overcrowding. Train, thin out the growths, and stop plants 
in frames, earthing up the roots, removing the lights for a few hours 
on showery afternoons, otherwise sprinkling the foliage at about 
4 p.m., and close the lights at the same time, not allowing an advance 
above 90°. Fumigate moderately and frequently upon the first 
appearance of aphides. Now is a good time to sow a few seeds for 
autumn fruiting. About four weeks are necessary at this season to 
secure sturdy plants, therefore make the necessary arrangements by 
collecting and preparing fermenting materials and soil, thoroughly 
cleansing the house. Although no fire heat is necessary at present, a 
