JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
74 
[ July 28, 1881. 
leaves, but no flowers. It was afterwards discarded as useless. 
To grow it successfully the roots must be confined in small pots, 
when it flowers freely and is really useful. Cuttings inserted 
now singly in the size of pot recommended for it, soon root and 
make useful plants in the autumn. C. floribundum is similar 
in habit of growth, differing only in the colour of its flowers. 
Begonias of the manicata type, as w r ell as B. Ingramii, 
should now be in cold frames, where they will do well for a 
time. If not already in their flowering pots they should be 
placed in them without delay. When removing such plants 
from frames in autumn care must be taken not to excite fresh 
growth. I have seen Euphorbias, Poinsettias, and others when 
removed from cold frames and placed in strong heat again 
start into rapid growth, afterwards producing only a poor 
supply of flowers. 
Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana is an excellent old but useful 
plant, producing its sprays of scarlet flowers during the dark 
days of November and December. This, however, depends 
much upon the time the plants have their last pinching. The 
end of August is fully late enough. When in flower this plant 
is at home either in the stove or in the conservatory. Although 
a greenhouse plant, it enjoys a little warmth in its early stages 
a3 well as in the autumn months. Where Calanthes are grown 
in quantity no better plant can be found to arrange, amongst 
them. The fine dark foliage not only hides the bareness of 
the Calanthe pots but shows to advantage their delicate flowers. 
In addition the bright scarlet sprays contrast admirably with 
the Calanthes, and give to the whole a beautiful effect. Six- 
inch pots are suitable, and potting must be done by the end of 
the month. When grown dwarf this plant is suitable for room 
and table decoration, and for this purpose at least half a dozen 
cuttings should be placed in a 5-inch pot and grown together 
without stopping if rooted about this time. If rooted a little 
earlier one pinching will be sufficient. 
Thyrsacanthus rutilans keeps much dwarfer and cleaner when 
grown through the summer under cool treatment. Cuttings 
may still be rooted and will make valuable little plants. 
Plumbago rosea coccinea is a useful plant for decoration, but 
of no service for cutting unless wanted for one night only. It 
should not be propagated too early. Grow the young plants 
rapidly until the end of this month, when they should be finally 
potted, and then be gradually subjected to a ripening process 
afterwards. Pinching should be discontinued during the month 
of August, and w 7 hen carrying out this operation a quantity of 
the tops should be rooted in small pots and afterwards sub¬ 
jected to the same treatment as the general stock. A number 
propagated late and grown together in small pots are valuable 
to stand near the edge of stages in warm plant houses. It is 
surprising what can be done even with late propagating with 
a number of suitable plants to render the houses gay and 
attractive during the winter months. 
Zonal Pelargoniums are the most useful and brilliant plants 
we possess for flowering during the winter and spring months, 
and when these are grown well not even that most popular of 
flowers the Chrysanthemum can equal them. When staged 
side by side the Chrysanthemum is dull in comparison with the 
Pelargoniums. Many still contend, in spite of all that has 
been written in their favour of late, that they will not do well 
in the north. That this is the greatest fallacy that can be 
conceived is proved by the fact that there are many northern 
gardens where they succeed grandly. They are, perhaps, more 
easily growm and more accommodating than any other class of 
plants grown for winter decoration. All the attention they 
require after frost is past is being placed in their full-size 
pots, hardened off and placed outside on ashes all summer until 
the approach of frost, watering w 7 hen necessary, stopping the 
shoots, and removing the flowers and bad leaves as they ap¬ 
pear. If it is desirable to increase the stock of any good 
kinds it can still be carried out. No better system can be 
adopted than placing a number of cuttings in each pot and 
allowing them to grow 7 together, as they make good plants 
quicker than if grown singly when late propagation has to be 
resorted to.— Wm. Bardney. 
Shrubs for a Town. —Can any of your numerous readers 
give me the name of an evergreen most likely to succeed w 7 ell as a 
hedge in an elevated and moderately exposed situation (facing 
south) in the outskirts of a rather smoky town ? Soil a good sandy 
loam and well drained, as well as an extra depth. Elevation 
above sea level 600 feet.— Lancashire. 
PREPARING FOR WINTER. 
(Continued from page 524, last volume.) 
CARROTS. 
There are certainly but few people who do not relish young 
Carrots. That these can be had with but little trouble all the 
year round is well known to the majority of professional gardeners, 
but a few hints on the subject may be of service to amateurs. 
The owners of small gardens ought really to grow small breadths 
of Carrots, and one variety only—viz., the Nantes Horn. About 
four sowings to be made during the year, the first on a warm 
border in January or early in February, the next early in April, 
the third and the largest sowing either late in June or early in 
July, and the last about the middle of August. The produce of 
the two former sowings will be available during the summer and 
early aittumn months, and from the two latter delicious Carrots may 
be drawn throughout the winter. It is very probable that the present 
system of growing Carrots will eventually be changed, especially 
where the spring-sown crops are usually damaged by the maggot 
or fail to keep well. I know two large gardens where these diffi¬ 
culties have been met by sowing the principal crops in July, 
thereby securing a supply of roots very superior in every respect. 
Some of the cleanest and best Carrots exhibited at some of the 
late autumn metropolitan vegetable shows were July-sown Nantes 
Horn. Another advantage of this system is, it admits of a crop 
of early Potatoes being taken off the land prior to sowing Carrots. 
During most seasons roots large enough for all ordinary purposes 
may be obtained by sowing seed at the present time in succession 
to early, and in our case to second early Potatoes. The late 
extremely hot weather has been very unfavourable to seed-sowing, 
but it has had the effect of rapidly maturing the Potato crops. 
These, with the exception of the Scotch Champions and Magnum 
Bonum, and which I am pleased to state are in the fields, will be 
cleared off early, and after the first good soaking of rain the 
ground will at once be planted with vegetables for the winter. 
Where the ground is somewhat moist when the Potatoes are lifted 
it is levelled as the process goes on, being cleared of rubbish, 
trodden, and raked over. The drills are then drawn, and a few 
hours prior to sowing are soaked with water, this being preferable 
to watering after the ground is levelled over the seeds. As the 
Carrots do not make much top growth the drills may be drawn 
9 or 10 inches asunder, and the seedlings thinned to about 2 inches 
apart. The roots should only be pulled as required, otherwise 
they will shrivel and lose that sweetness for which they are much 
prized. To be able to draw them at all times, part of the bed may 
be covered with litter whenever severe frost is anticipated. 
LETTUCE AND ENDIVE. 
The ground having been quite cleared of Potatoes no time 
should now be lost in sowing the seeds of these invaluable salads. 
The former from this date will not attain to a great size, but 
they will form crisp hearts suitable for mixing with the more 
blanched Endive. Lettuces obtained from seed sown earlier in 
July are sometimes the best for lifting and storing in frames ; but 
this season, owing to the warmth in the soil, those sown at the end 
of July or early in August may form hearts before frosts are 
experienced. The remainder of the seed of the Cos varieties may 
be sown, and with these seed of All the Year Round and Hardy 
Hammersmith Cabbage varieties, in rows about 10 inches apart, 
and thinning out the seedlings to about 8 inches asunder. To 
secure plants to stand out during the winter (these being for the 
earliest supply next spring), sow seed on a warm border about the 
third week in August and again early in September, this precau¬ 
tion being taken in order to be certain of rather small plants 
which only are really hardy. It is advisable to prick out a few 
plants where they may be covered with handlights or a frame, as 
those in the open are liable to be destroyed by birds and slugs. 
Hicks’ Hardy White Cos and the Black-seeded Brown Cos have 
proved hardy and good ; and of Cabbage varieties at present I 
give the preference to the Hardy Hammersmith, Suttons’ Com¬ 
modore Nutt, and All the Year Round. 
When good Lettuce can be had Endive is not so much required, 
at the same time it much improves the appearance of a salad, and 
for that reason is grown and sent to the London markets especi¬ 
ally as much as possible throughout the year. The principal and 
most valuable crop, however, is that obtained by sowing at the 
end of July and early in August. The Moss Curled is very good 
for the earliest sowing, as it is close-growing and blanches quickly, 
but is the most tender variety. The rows of these may be disposed 
