July 28, 1831. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 89 
tivators will be to stimulate to further effort, and determine that 
the flowers they cherish shall not be overgrown by pretty weeds, 
nor even the sweet wild Rose.—L. M. 
[Our correspondent’s‘remarks are just; we are true gardeners, 
and can admire single or double flowers alike according to their 
merits, and hence we afford scope for the discussion of these or 
any other horticultural subjects that are capable of being treated 
from different points of view.—E d.] 
NOTES ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
There can be no doubt that the Chrysanthemum is a general 
favourite and popular flower, except with those who admire 
flowers only for their fragrance. I know ladies who would prefer 
a single spray of Mignonette or Lily of the Valley to a barrowful 
of Chrysanthemum blooms, yet they tolerate their growth because 
they produce a display as well as variety, thus adding cheerful¬ 
ness to houses or conservatories during the dark gloomy days of 
November and December. They are invaluable for many pur¬ 
poses of decoration, and to do without them where flowers have 
to be produced in abundance at that season of the year would be 
almost impossible. When large blooms are grown for exhibition 
they certainly are very beautiful when staged, but are nearly 
useless for other kinds of decoration. They look very well in 
large houses amongst Camellias, Ferns, Palms, and other large 
plants, and yet in many gardens they could not be accommodated ; 
if they could I cannot see the utility of growing plants for this 
purpose on the same system as if growing for exhibition. A 
plant grown, say, from March to November to produce one bloom, 
or at the most three, is not a system that is ever likely to become 
general with those who grow the plant for usefulness or for 
effect. Again, the Chrysanthemum certainly looks beautiful where 
trained to represent a pincushion with a number of pins neatly 
arranged. Such plants may gratify the taste of those who admire 
formality. This sort of training will now be occupying the at¬ 
tention of exhibitors until November ; it is considerably over¬ 
done, and the plants when finished are most unnatural-looking 
objects that can possibly be imagined. 
The grower for cutting and decoration is often ridiculed by 
those who practise the close training because his plants are not 
so neatly trained ; the exhibitor forgets the two have different 
objects in view. One grows the plants so that when staged with 
others the whole is in harmony and the taste displayed effective 
throughout; the other grows for public exhibition. Arrange 
these formal plants with others for effect, and they break the 
display and look anything but beautiful. I once grew a number 
of close-trained specimens, and after all the labour in training I 
was disappointed with them when they had to be arranged with 
other plants. My only object in alluding to this formal training 
is to deter cultivators who intend growing for decoration, and 
have decided to have formal plants for that purpose after seeing 
them at some past exhibition. The labour spent in growing half 
a dozen close-trained plants is as much as need be spent in grow¬ 
ing fifty others more suitable for effective decoration. 
Plants propagated now or any time during the next two weeks 
make capital specimens for arranging with plants of a dwarf nature. 
They root readily if kept close in a frame and shaded during the 
day from strong sun. Cuttings of Pompone varieties should be 
inserted in 5-inch pots, about six in each pot, and the whole 
when rooted allowed to grow on together. The large-flowering 
kinds, such as Elaine, Empress of India, Queen of England, and 
others, can also be grown on the same system if deemed advisable, 
or singly in 4-inch pots. They should be grown on without stop¬ 
ping when rooted, and each large-flowering kind should only be 
allowed to carry one bloom, all others being removed as soon 
as they can be seen. The Pompones need not be so severely dis¬ 
budded. James Salter is a capital early-flowering kind, and 
when a few cuttings are grown, as recommended for the Pom¬ 
pones, they look remarkably well. When well rooted and hard¬ 
ened off they must be grown outside and treated the same as 
the general stock. —Scientia. 
, KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Potatoes of the earlier varieties are, from the unusually long 
period of dry weather, quite ripe, and should be taken up at once, as 
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with a change to wet weather it is very probable the disease will 
attack them. The tubers required for use should be selected and 
stored away, while those for seed may be placed in an open shed so 
that they may be thoroughly dried ; the ground will then be available 
for Brassicas for autumn, winter, or spring use, which should now be 
planted with as little delay as possible, also late crops of Broccoli. 
Cauliflowers for late use and lifting for protecting in frames may still 
be planted. Sow Cabbage seed from the 6th to the 8th of next 
month for the main crop, pricking off the earlier-sown as soon as fit; 
the advantage resulting from this tieatment amply compensates for 
the time occupied in its performance. About the 10th of next month 
the main sowing of Tripoli Onions should be made, also Winter or 
Prickly Spinach, allowing a distance of 18 inches between the rows. 
A sowing should be made of Lettuce for late autumn and winter use 
of such kinds as Hicks’ Hardy White, Bath or Brown Sugarloaf, All 
the Year Round, and Stanstead Park. Carrots for spring use may 
now be sown in drills about 10 inches apart in a somewhat sheltered 
situation where the soil is of a friable nature. Another good breadth 
of Turnips should be planted in an open situation—Early Snowball, 
Six Weeks, Yeitch’s Red Globe, and Orange Jelly being suitable 
varieties. Sow Chervil and Corn Salad, these will now stand for late 
use. Continue to sow Endive, making the last sowing the first week 
in next month, and where this is in request a good breadth should be 
planted from the earlier-sown plants. Take advantage of suitable 
weather for earthing up early Celery, but before doing so make sure 
that the roots are in a sufficiently moist soil to ensure vigorous 
growth. Late Peas, also Runners and Dwarf Beans, should receive 
a liberal supply of water or liquid manure to keep them in bearing, 
as they require in dry weather a good soaking at least once a week. 
To have Cos Lettuces in good condition it is a good plan to mulch the 
soil with half-decayed manure between the rows, and water the 
whole surface occasionally. Autumn-sown Onions, Shallots, and 
Garlic may be taken up when growth has ceased, spreading the 
bulbs on the ground for a few days so that they may be well dried 
before storing. Cut and tie up Basil, Marjoram, and other herbs for 
drying when they are in flower and quite dry. Attend to stopping 
and thinning Gherkin and Ridge Cucumbers, allowing them sufficient 
moisture, similar remarks applying to Tomatoes, the laterals of these 
being kept closely pinched. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Late Grapes must be early and thoroughly ripened, and to 
secure this they should now be colouring, and then they—even such 
varieties as Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, &c., that take a long time 
to ripen—may be expected to be fully ripe by the middle or end of 
September, and any not then ripe will stand a poor chance of becom¬ 
ing so or of keeping satisfactorily. All late Grapes require a high 
temperature to finish them off, and were this accorded their flavour 
would not be so much condemned as it now is. To effect the ripen¬ 
ing thoroughly a temperature of 70° to 75° should be maintained 
by artificial means, with a circulation of air constantly. Ventilate 
houses freely that contain Lady Downe’s till the scalding period is 
past, which is when they have commenced colouring, keeping the 
night temperature at 70°. Do not allow the inside borders to lack 
moisture, applying weak liquid manure or guano water in a tepid 
state in the early part of the day. Keep the laterals in bounds by 
pinching, not allowing them to become crowded and so necessitate 
their removal in large quantities, as this gives a check to the root- 
action and not infrequently results in shanking. Late Hamburghs 
need not be hurried, but should have fire heat if necessary to main¬ 
tain the night temperature at 60° to 65°, and 70° to 75° by day, 
allowing an advance to 80°, 85°, or 90° from sun heat. A good pro¬ 
portion of atmospheric moisture will assist the swelling, especially 
in the latter part of the day, keeping the borders thoroughly moist 
by applying tepid liquid manure at intervals of about a week. 
A temperature of 60° is sufficient for Vines with the fruit ripe- 
Should excessive rains set in early Vines in outside borders will be 
induced to continue in growth, which should be prevented, stopping 
all lateral growths as produced, and protect the border from further 
moisture so as to induce early maturation and rest. Keep newly 
planted Vines in full growth by the maintenance of a humid atmo- 
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