136 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTA GE GARDENER. r August 11 , issi. 
and treated as annuals ; and not only that, but there is no com¬ 
parison between the number of blooms. I may anticipate one 
objection in reference to remaking and manuring the beds and 
borders by saying I find the plants to lift in spring or autumn 
with a firm ball of earth, and grow unchecked. Indeed this 
should be done if mulching is not applied in winter. I have 
been cutting bunches for the last six weeks, and the more you 
remove the better the remaining blooms expand. Eastern Queen 
and Crimson Belle are among the best of the single varieties 
for succession thus treated ; but as I lost many during the last 
severe winter I cannot consider them so hardy. Enough of the 
above will, however, come single to meet the views of those who 
prefer the single form of this flower. If seed cannot readily be 
procured from any variety of superior merit I would recommend 
propagation by suckers. Treated as an annual, a few flowers on 
weak stems are your only reward ; these I prefer picking off, so 
as to add vigour to plants intended to stand outside over the 
winter.—W. J. M., Clonmel. 
WORKjoi\theWEEK.. ' 
dt; 
if 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sowing Tripoli Onions, also Prickly or Winter Spinach, ought now 
to be completed, the latter being allowed fully 18 inches between the 
rows, so as to admit of a properly developed growth. Lose no time 
in sowing Cabbage seed for the main crop, and see that earlier plants 
are pricked out as soon as large enough, so as to keep them sturdy. 
As ground becomes vacant plant Lettuces, Endive, and winter greens 
of the kinds most required, paying attention to a suitable rotation of 
crops. A good breadth of Turnips should be sown for late winter 
and spring use, choosing an open yet somewhat sheltered situation. 
Suitable varieties for this sowing are Veitch’s Bed Globe, Orange 
Jelly, and Chirk Castle Black Stone. There is yet time to plant 
Broccolis for late use, also Cauliflowers for affording heads in early 
winter should the weather prove mild. Late Celery may still be 
planted, taking advantage of suitable weather for earthing-up early 
crops, and supply later crops liberally with water or liquid manure. 
Late Peas, dwarf and runner Beans, should receive a liberal supply of 
water or liquid manure to keep them in bearing. A last sowing of 
Endive can now be made. If a sowing of Erench Beans be made in 
a pit to which heat can be given later on, a supply of Beans will be 
continued long after those outside have been cut off by frost. The 
lights should not be placed on until there is reason to apprehend 
danger from frost. 
MUSHROOM HOUSE. 
Preparation should be made of materials for forming beds in this 
structure to afford a supply of Mushrooms in autumn. The best 
materials are unquestionably fresh horse droppings collected daily 
and spread out in a shed or other place where they will be kept dry, 
and so thinly spread as to prevent heating, turning them over occa¬ 
sionally. When a sufficient quantity is collected for forming into a 
bed or beds lo to 18 inches thick, throw them into a conical heap, and 
when a gentle heat has been produced turn the heap over and allow 
it to remain until moderate fermentation again takes place, when the 
beds can be made, it being important that the materials be rammed 
down firmly. If a third part of short straw be added it will prevent 
too speedy decay of the materials. Sawdust may be used in lieu of 
straw. Where means cannot be employed for collecting the droppings 
these should be shaken from the litter, forming beds at once. Insert 
a thermometer with the bulb about 3 inches beneath the surface, and 
insert the spawn when the temperature declines to 90°, or before it 
reaches 70°. Pieces of spawn not less than an inch square should be 
employed, placing them about an inch below the surface 9 inches 
apart, firming the material well around the spawn, and cover with 
the same material an inch in depth. In a week or ten days, when 
the temperature is 70° to 75°, the bed should be earthed, placing a 
covering of turfy loam 2 inches thick, and beating it down firmly and 
render it smooth with the back of a spade. The loam should be 
moist, so as to form a close firm surface ; if not, water must be em¬ 
ployed. A covering of dry hay will tend to maintain the heat of the 
bed and prevent the surface cracking. The hay must only remain 
on until the Mushrooms appear, when the surface of the bed must be 
kept moist by sprinkling with tepid water. The Mushrooms will ap¬ 
pear in about six weeks from the insertion of the spawn, and to insure 
their growth a temperature of 55° should be maintained. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines. —The present is a good time to renovate the borders of early 
houses, or, if necessary, to lift the Vines, it being of primary import¬ 
ance to keep the roots near the surface. In the case of lifting an 
opening should be taken out at the extremity of the border, working 
from this point towards the Vines, removing the soil from the roots 
carefully with a fork, and lightly covering them to prevent their 
drying. See that the drainage is perfect, and cover it with a layer 
of turves grass side downwards. The drainage should be a foot 
thick, and have drains with proper fall and outlet to carry off super¬ 
fluous water. Turfy friable loam with one part in ten of old mortar 
rubbish, a twentieth of charcoal, and a fortieth of crushed bones 
thoroughly incorporated, form a suitable compost. The roots should 
be laid out carefully in the fresh material, keeping them near the sur¬ 
face, not covering them deeper than from 4 to C inches. The com¬ 
post should not be very wet, but fairly moist and tolerably firm about 
the roots. Give a thorough soaking with water at 90° to 100°, and 
mulch with short manure. Whilst these operations are in progress 
the house should be closely shaded, the ventilators closed or very 
slightly opened, and the Vines damped occasionally. Syringe the 
Vines twice a day after the operation is completed, shading to 
prevent the temperature rising too high. In the course of ten days 
or a fortnight it will be seen by the growth appearing on the laterals 
that the roots are spreading in the fresh compost, when the shading 
should be removed, having it in readiness in case the weather should 
be very bright for an hour or two at midday. When the Vines have 
recovered from the lifting admit a free circulation of air, and be 
careful not to reduce the laterals too closely, or this may cause the 
principal buds to start. In the case of renovating the border with¬ 
out having recourse to lifting it is only necessary to remove the 
surface soil, carefully clearing the old soil from amongst the roots 
and putting in fresh compost, laying in the roots if necessary nearer 
the surface as above indicated, watering and mulching. 
Early Vines merely needing the annual surface dressing may, if 
the wood is thoroughly lipe, have all laterals cut away and be par¬ 
tially pruned— i.e., some of the longest shoots can be shortened, not 
pruning finally until the foliage has nearly all fallen. Vines in pots 
intended for very early forcing should be in the last stage of ripen- 
ing, but any not so forward as could be wished should have fire heat 
applied at once ; this with abundance of air will soon cause them to 
mature. Those now ripe will rest sooner if moved to a wall or fence 
outdoors, to which the canes can be secured, guarding against the soil 
becoming very wet by having needful protection at hand, also avoid¬ 
ing the other extreme—overdryness. Keep all lateral growths in check 
by pinching, the old foliage being carefully preserved. Vines that 
have crops which are colouring and swelling require free ventilation 
night and day, applying fire heat if necessary to admit of this, a 
dry warm atmosphere being essential to high finish. Grap °s in any 
stage later than colouring should now be hastened foiwa 4, main¬ 
taining a night temperature of G5° to 70°, and 70? to 75° by day, in 
dull weather. Late Hamburghs need not be pushed forward unless 
there is danger of their not colouring before the end of this or the 
beginning of next month. As there has been great want of rain in 
some localities the outside borders must not be neglected, but be 
given thorough supplies of water or liquid manure in a tepid state. 
Where it is desired to preserve black Grapes as long as possible it i s 
necessary, unless the foliage is good, to shade slightly. 
Melons .—Give all possible attention to the last batch of plants, 
encouraging them in every way to make a quick and strong growth. 
A minimum temperature of 70° to 75° should be maintained, and a 
maximum of 85° to 90°, with a moist atmosphere, shading only to 
prevent flagging. Train with one stem only, allowing it to advance 
well up the trellis before stopping, pinching out all lateral growths 
