JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
140 
[ August 11, 1881. 
Strawberries (A. C. Wilkin). —The whole of the pages you have quoted 
do not, we thiuk, contain the articles you require. We presume you want those 
on Strawberry farming, of which there are five preceding those you have read, 
and the numbers containing them can be sent on receipt of Is. 3J<i. in postage 
stamps. 
Plums and Cherries ( Hereford Reader). —If we understand your ques¬ 
tion rightly you desire trees that will be profitable by the sale of the fruit 
rather than a number of different varieties for affording a succession of fruit in 
limited quantities at one time. We advise you, therefore, to plant six trees of 
the Victoria Plum and six of the Bigarreau Cherry. If you order the trees 
early, say in September, stating that you require them extra strong, the proper 
kinds will be sent to you at the right time for planting. 
Stands for Asters (Aspiro). —Assuming the blooms are of large size, as 
they should be for exhibition, stands that are suitable for Chrysauthemun^s 
will answer your purpose. Those for six blooms are a foot long, for twelve 
blooms 2 feet long, for eighteen blooms 3 feet long, and for twenty-four blooms 
4 feet long ; the width in each case being 18 inches ; height at the back 6 inches, 
and in front 3 inches. Stands of this size will also do for Roses, and you may 
therefore possibly find them convenient for other purposes than the one imme¬ 
diately in view. 
Old Pear Trees (Paddle). —You do not give us any idea of either the size 
or age of the trees, nor are you certain what stocks they are on. Assuming they 
are on the Pear, as you suppose, we think the simplest method to adopt, and in 
the end the best, will be to thin out at once a number of the overcrowded 
branches, and then permit the trees to grow unchecked and form standards. In 
the spring, however, it will be wise to examine the trees and rub out any growths 
that may issue from the stems from where the branches have been severed. 
Beyond that, and thinning out an occasional branch, we should do no pruning. 
If t he growths are left their entire length and are sufficiently thin for the sun and 
air to act on the foliage natural fruit spurs will form, whereas if you prune—that 
is, shorten the shoots—you will only produce a further growth of wood. Root- 
pruning such trees seldom results in the end desired, and is not profitable. 
Grapes Cracking (Idem). —The variety you name is rather prone to 
crack on account of the thinness of the skin, which cannot resist the pressure of 
the sap that is supplied to the berries. Rather heavy cropping has a tendency 
to prevent cracking, so has cutting notches in the laterals on which the bunches 
are hanging, the same effect being produced by removing some of the leaves 
beyond the bunches. Keep the atmosphere of the house rather dry. Sow the 
Smilax seed in spring in light soil, and place the pots in a heated frame or 
propagating house, keeping the soil always moist; yet after all your care the 
seeds may not germinate. 
Gloxinias after Flowering (A. A. M.).— Keep the foliage of the plants 
fresh as long as possible by applying water judiciously, For a abort time the 
plants will need nearly as much as when they were flowering, but on the first 
signs of discoloration the supply must be gradually lessened, but at no time 
permit the soil to be dust dry. When the foliage has died the plants may be 
wintered in the warmest part of your greenhouse, keeping the soil nearly dry. 
They may be placed under the stage, but laid on their sides if drip falls from 
the plants above. 
Potting Cyclamens (Idem). —Your plants that are just starting into 
growth should be turned out of the pots, and have as mucli soil removed as can 
be done without injuring the roots materially ; then place them in perfectly 
clean and well-drained pots, using a compost of two-thirds of turfy loam, the 
remaining third being composed of peat, leaf soil, and dried manure, adding also 
silver sand and crushed charcoal freely to keep the whole porous. The soil 
should be in a healthy state as to moisture when it is used—that is, neither 
too wet on the one hand nor too dry on the other. This is important. After 
being potted the plants should be placed in a cold frame and kept rather close 
for a week or ten days, shading them if hot weather prevails. They must be 
watered carefully, as an excess of moisture until roots are produced for absorb¬ 
ing it is pernicious. Syringing daily except in dull weather is beneficial and 
lessens the necessity for saturating the soil. As soon as fresh roots reach the 
sides of the pots the plants will need more water, especially if, as they should be, 
they are in a house having a temperature of not less than 50°. 
Propagating Marguerites (An Old Subscriber). —If you well drain some 
flowerpots, protect the drainage with a little moss, fill the pots two-thirds full 
with a compost of unsifted turfy loam and leaf soil, and on this place an inch 
or two of lighter soil finely sifted and mixed with half its bulk of sand, pressing 
it rather firmly, then surface witli a layer of pure sand, and water the pots 
thoroughly through a fine rose, they will be ready for the cuttings. These 
should be about 3 inches long, the leaves being divested for a little more than 
half the length of each cutting, removing any flower buds there may be, then 
insert the cuttings firmly an inch apart, and give another thorough watering. If 
the pots are placed in a frame and kept close for a week or so, shading to prevent 
the foliage flagging, nearly every cutting will emit roots. The plants must then 
have more air, and be removed to the vinery on the occurrence of frost. The 
present is the right time for inserting the cuttings. The yellow form is 
perhaps not quite so haidy as the white, but neither of them are difficult to 
strike and preserve, while both are of easy culture. 
Vine Unhealthy—Removing Laterals (Yorkshire Curate). — There 
is no red spider on the leaf sent, but the Vine is evidently in an unsatisfactory 
state. The root-action is defective, but whether this has resulted from an 
excess of water or the reverse we are unable to say. Examine the border, and 
if it is at all dry at a depth of 2 feet apply water in sufficient quantity to pene¬ 
trate the entire mass of soil. Surface roots should also be induced by placing 
fresh soil and wood ashes in contact with the roots, covering it with rich 
manure. As a rule amateurs err by planting Vines in inside borders, as only 
good cultivators can manage them well thus planted. A safer and easier course 
is to plant outside, and, the soil being good, the Vines are almost certain to 
grow if they have the right treatment inside. This consists in judicious ven¬ 
tilation, especially opening the lights early in the morning, maintaining a 
genial atmosphere by sprinkling the paths, walls, &c., of the house once or 
twice daily in hot weather, and keeping the foliage clean and thinly disposed, 
with moderate cropping. As a rule the principal laterals should be from 15 to 
18 inches apart up each side of the rods ; the points may be pinched out at one 
or two leaves beyond the bunches according as there is space for leaf-develop¬ 
ment. Those laterals that bear no bunches may be stopped at about the sixth 
leaf ; the sub-laterals that follow should be pinched at the first leaf—that is, 
the moment a leaf is seen as large as a shilling pinch off the growth, leaving 
that leaf only. By continuing this practice throughout the season overcrowding 
is prevented and fruitful wood with fine foliage produced. Let the laterals on 
the sickly Vine, however, grow freely now, removing some of the bunches if 
they are numerous. If the laterals on the other Vines have been neglected they 
must not be removed in large quantities at a time, but gradually, cutting a few 
off every day, and this only to admit the sun to the principal leaves. You will 
probably do well to train a young cane from a healthy Vine for providing a rod 
in place of the unhealthy Vine should it not recover, as a healthy Vine planted 
outside will support two rods as well as one. The spots are the result of not 
admitting air sufficiently early on the mornings of hot days. 
Socotrine and Barbadoes Aloes (Inquirer ).—The species suppose 1 
to yield Socotrine Aloes is A. socotrina, but some doubt still exists as to the 
true source ; it is, however, well known that this plant grows abundantly on 
the island of Socotra, and about the Straits of Babelmanael, whence the supplies 
of the drug are obtained. The preparation is much the same as is practised at, 
the Cape, but instead of being evaporated in iron pans by the aid of artificial 
heat, it is said to be performed by exposure to the sun. Barbadoes Aloes is 
procured from A. vulgaris ; but A. socotrina, A. purpurascens, and A. arbo- 
rescens are also cultivated for the purpose. This variety of the drug is 
obtained either by boiling the juice to a proper consistence, or by chopping up 
the leaves and forming a decoction with water, which is afterwards evaporated ; 
in either case, when the proper consistence has been obtained, the substance is 
poured into calabashes and allowed to concrete. A superior variety has been 
got by the spontaneous exudation and inspissation of the juice. The composi¬ 
tion of a pure specimen of 100 parts of Socotrine Aloes consists of 85 of a bitter 
extractive substance called aloesin; 2 of ulrnate of potassa; 2 of sulphate of 
lime; 0 - 25 of gallic acid; 8 of albumen and traces of carbonate of potassa, 
carbonate of lime, and phosphate of lime. Aloesin is very soluble in water and 
alcohol, but slightly soluble in ether, and quite unaltered in the fixed and 
volatile oils; and it possesses in an eminent degree the bitter taste and purga¬ 
tive property of aloes. Aloes is one of the most valuable remedies, being tonic, 
gently aperient, or purgative, according to the dose. 
Namts of Plants (TV. B.). —1, Campanula Rapunculoides, Creeping Bell¬ 
flower ; 2, Fumaria officinalis, common Fumitory—this plant was formerly 
considered a valuable antiscorbutic, and much used in obstructions of the 
viscera. (F. J.). —1, Linurn grandiflorum rubrum; 2, Leptosiphon roseus ; 3, 
An (Enothera, but as all the flowers had closed we are unable to determine the 
species or variety. If the plant is perennial it is possibly 03. Fraseri. (A. T .).— 
Rhus cotinus, commonly called the Smoke Tree from the peculiarity of its 
inflorescence, of which you send a good example. (E. E.). —1, Erythnea Ccn- 
taurium, common Centaury, not a Gentian ; 2, Chlora perfoliata, Perfoliate 
Yellow-wort; 3, Vicia sylvatica, common Wood Veitch; 4, Epilobium angusti- 
folium, Narrow-leaved Willow herb, certainly wild; 5, Erigeron acre, blue 
Erigeron, not a Thistle. There is little difficulty in determining specimens that 
arrive in such good condilion as those you have sent. (W. II. IF.)—1, Ficus 
repens ; 2, quite withered; 3, Asclepias curassavica; 4, Habrothamnus fasci- 
cularis ; 5, Maurandya Barclayana ; 6, insufficient without flowers. (IF. V.).— 
1, Achillea Ptarmica flore-pleno ; 2, Lilium Batemannre ; 3, Bryonia dioica; 4, 
Matricaria inodora ; 5, Epilobium augustifolium. ( It. I'.). — 1, Saponaria calabrioa; 
2, Monarda didyma ; 3, Sedum carneum ; 4, Nerium Oleander. 
A Hive without Honey (J. B. (?.).—Evidently something has been 
wrong in the stock hive or the management of it, seeing >t yielded only 1 lb. of 
honey on being turned out twenty-one days after swarming. As the swarm, 
too, is at starvation point you think the queen is too old and lays drone eggs 
only. If the queen was a mere drone-breeder before swarming the hive would 
never have swarmed at all. If there is nothing but drone broo.l in the hive 
kill the queen and unite the bees to the turn-out. Possibly both swarms united 
would make a good stock for another year ; but even if both swarms get young 
queens it would be difficult at this late season to build up two good stocks from 
the bees now, as you say, at starvation point. Young queens may be had from 
those who sell them, the prices usually ranging from 5s. to 10s. each. 
Driving Bees from Supers (Inquirer). —This subject is practically and 
concisely treated by Mr. Pettigrew, whose communication in our present issue 
embraces the question you have submitted. 
White Bees Thrown Out (II. M., Southport). —The bodies you enclose 
in your communication are, as you suppose, drone pupoe, and their ejectment 
simply indicates that the honey yield has practically ceased, and that the bees have 
given up all idea of colonising for the season. The destruction of drones proves 
that the queen is all right, while it by no means indicates that the hive is 
deficient in store, but it is always wise to look within to ascertain the condition 
of things when these white bees are seen. The throwing-out of worker pupas 
and the eating of eggs and young larvae must, on the contrary, however, be 
always regarded as a certain indication that the larder is most unsatisfactorily 
furnished, if indeed it does not proclaim imminent starvation. If bees are 
constantly fed they will suffer their drones to live undisturbed until they form 
their winter cluster, when they simply turn them to the floorboard. 
Glucose as a Food, &c. (J/. II. M.). —Your queries cover much ground 
of general interest, and do not require an answer immediately, so that we 
purpose treating the question fully in a future issue. 
Transferring and Uniting Bees (Inquirer, Lindfield). —It is certainly 
not too late to drive and transfer. The skeps, unless unusually large, will not 
half fill your Philadelphia hives, so that you may either put both lots into one 
Philadelphia hive or make two stocks of them, when feeding will be necessary. 
If the bees are helped until they have filled six or seven frames they will have 
done enough for successful wintering, but you must reduce your hive by a 
dummy. If you unite—and whether you should or not must be much deter¬ 
mined by the position the hives are now occupying—take no trouble about 
the respective queens, as the bees will settle this matter for themselves. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— AUGUST 10. 
Our market is now quieter, the soft fruit being nearly finished, but best fruit 
is still in demand. Prices with few exceptions remain the same. 
FRUIT. 
Apples . 
J sieve 
8. 
2 
d. s. 
0 to 2 
d. 
6 
Lemons . 
8. 
d. 8. 
0 to 18 
d. 
0 
Apricots . 
box 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Melons . 
2 
6 
4 
0 
Cherries. 
V It), 
bushel 
0 
3 
0 
6 
4 
0 
1<* 
0 
Chestnuts. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
100 
4 
0 
8 
0 
Currants, Black . 
j sieve 
6 
0 
0 
0 
Peaches . 
. dozen 
4 
0 
12 
0 
„ Red .... 
i sieve 
S 
6 
4 
0 
Pears,kitchen 
. dozen 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Figs . 
dozen 
3 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
o 
Filberts . 
IPft. 
0 
0 
0 10 
Pine Apples .. 
v ib 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Cobs . 
IF lb 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries .. 
.. per ft. 
0 
4 
i 
0 
Gooseberries .... 
J sieve 
2 
6 
3 
6 
Walnuts . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Grapes . 
lb 
1 
0 
4 
e 
ditto . 
0 
0 
0 
• 
