JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August 25, 1881. ] 
187 
but very soon it proved a strong hive with a laying queen. This, 
I believe, is one of the best and safest plans I have heard of. 
To come to the caution, and to return to our hive without a 
queen, which would not accept either queen cells or eggs. I had, 
as a last resort, given them a comb of eggs, and I was every day 
looking for queen cells to be formed, but none was formed. At 
last I was much struck by seeing numbers of eggs in the cells. I 
then began to search for a fertile worker ; but instead of that I 
found a fine young black queen. How came she there ? 1 will 
tiy and theorise. The eight or ten days she had been in the bar- 
frame she had gone out on a trip, and returned to the bar-frame 
that she had before returned to from similar excursions. She was 
in the bar-frame when I gave my last queen, and had only met with 
her after some twenty-four hours, for the bees themselves seemed 
to be perfectly friendly towards the strange queen all day. I 
might have seen the black queen sooner, only I did not take out 
any frame but the one I gave them with the eggs, as I looked 
upon it as the source of all hope. So again I would say, Be 
cautious !— Comber, Co. Down. 
REVIEW OF BOOK. 
British Bee-keepers' Guide Book. By Thos. Wm. Cowan, F.G.S., 
F.R.M.S., &c. Illustrated, 135 pages. London : Houlston and 
Sons, Paternoster Square. 
This volume is a fitting sequel to the little manual of the 
British Bee-keepers’ Association, which is necessarily of an ele¬ 
mentary character. It is designed to meet the requirements of 
those who use moveable comb hives, and, by ignoring the skep 
system entirely, dispenses with many chapters usually found in 
bee books, thus affording a great amount of instruction in the 
bar-frame system within comparatively small compass. Its nume¬ 
rous excellent illustrations render the text perfectly plain to 
ordinary readers. 
The style of the “ Guide Book ” is rather closely didactic, render¬ 
ing it of comparatively little interest to non-bee-keepers, but 
assisting greatly in the condensation of its real matter. Through¬ 
out Mr. Cowan speaks as one having authority, pouring forth 
his mandates without often condescending to give his grounds 
for the same, and seldom quoting the authority of others. This 
is refreshing after some of the many scissors-and-paste bee books 
in circulation. The name of Mr. Cowan is so well known as that 
of an advanced and successful bee-keeper, that it is with hesi¬ 
tation we venture to offer anything like criticism of the matter of 
this volume. It strikes us, however, as presenting modern bee¬ 
keeping in the light of rather a complicated and expensive pur¬ 
suit. The illustrations alone set before us an array of appliances 
quite formidable to beginners, and unfortunately it is that class 
who are generally least able but most anxious to become pos¬ 
sessors of every vaunted improvement in the way of machinery. 
The more experienced the bee-keeper becomes, the more simple 
will be his hives and the fewer his mechanical appliances. It is, 
therefore, right we should warn beginners against the notion that 
all the articles described in the “Guide Book” arc absolutely 
necessary. As Mr. Cowan is no dealer in apparatus he ventures 
without hesitation to describe such of these appliances as are 
more particularly connected with his own name. Of these we 
instance his form of hive and extractors as possessing features of 
very great merit. His winter ventilator we regard, however, as 
of little importance, and we think two pages might have been 
better employed than in describing and illustrating Mr. Cheshire’s 
method for the prevention of robbing. 
The real interest of the book lies, however, in the insight it 
gives us into the methods practised by so successful an apiarian 
as the author, and we venture to commend these to the attention 
of its readers, particularly the references to artificial swarming, 
spreading the brood, surplus comb honey, and doubling for the 
extractor. These are really the pith and marrow of the book, 
and deserve a much larger share of its space. We are not at all 
sure we can recommend the author’s method of treating foul brood, 
as, having failed to cure it with salicylic acid, we almost believe it 
impossible to cure diseased combs in any other way than by con¬ 
signing them to the melting pot. On the whole, however, we 
welcome the volume as a book up with the times, though we 
believe there is still room for another devoted entirely to the 
practical work of the apiary. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Veitch & Sons, King’s Road, Chelsea.— Catalogue of Bulbs. 
Sutton & Sons, Reading .—Illustrated Bulb Catalogue. 
Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge.— Illustrated Bulb Catalogue. 
George Templeman, Prestwich, N.B.— Catalogue of Selected Boses. 
F. C. Heinemann, Erfurt.— General Bulb and Plant Catalogue. 
Roses from Cuttings (ir. Land ).—The information you desire is given 
by Mr. W. Taylor on another page of the present issue. 
Budding Fruit Trees (II. A). —The work may still be performed if the 
buds and stocks are in proper condition. The buds will remain dormant until 
the spring. 
Drying Everlastings (T. A. N .).—Cut the flower-heads on a dry da} - , and 
place them on shelves in a house where they will be exposed to the sun and air 
freely. When dried they may be kept in any cool dry place. 
Heating Greenhouse and Conservatory (Idem). — If you arrange 
for the pipes under the gravel path to have a slight rise from the greenhouse to 
the conservatory there is no doubt the apparatus would work satisfactorily, but 
if you intend the pipes beneath the walk to dip from the greenhouse and then 
rise again in the conservatory we doubt if it would work efficiently. The plan 
most likely to answer would be to have separate flow and return pipes from the 
boiler, having the latter so low' as to allow of the flow for the conservatory being 
taken beneath the pathway with a slight rise from the boiler. The pipes from 
the boiler to the conservatory may be 2-inch, and with this arrangement they 
would be heated efficiently. We could not give an estimate of the cost. 
Establishing Mushrooms in Pasture ( L. F.). — The best plan we 
have known was inserting pieces of good spawn about 2 inches square in holes 
3 inches in depth, filling up the holes with the loam removed, making it quite 
firm over the spawn. It is necessary that a dry time be selected with a prospect 
of its continuance to admit of the spawn spreading. The early part of June is 
the most suitable time, and with favourable weather Mushrooms will appear in 
six to eight weeks. 
Weeds on Lawns (R. 71.).—The small weed simply enclosed in a letter 
was so much dried as to be totally beyond identification. In all probability it 
cannot be eradicated except by drawing out the plants individually. If the 
weeds are numerous you might, however, try Watson’s lawn sand on a small 
plot at first by way of experiment. It may be had from the leading nursery¬ 
men and seed merchants, and must be used in exact accordance with the instruc¬ 
tions that accompany each packet. 
Holly Hedge (J. G .).—Unless the hedge is protected there will be great 
risk of its being much injured by the animals, and possibly it may be destroyed. 
It is a matter of common prudence to prevent animals having access to all 
newly planted fences. One or two rails or stands of stout wire affixed to posts 
will render a fence safe from horses and cattle, the fence of course being placed 
at a proper distance from the hedge. 
Select Hybrid Perpetual Roses-Mildew on Roses (W. Booth).— 
Alfred Colomb, Baronne de Rothschild, Charles Lefebvre, Uuke of Connaught, 
Francois Michelon, John Hopper, La France, Madame Lacliarme, Marquise de 
Castellane, Pierre Notting, Prince Camille de Rohan, and Senateur Vaisse are 
good varieties, and will probably suit you. The mildew has been induced by a 
deficiency of moisture at the roots, and is very prevalent where water has not 
been freely supplied, and mulching over the roots has not been resorted to, 
along with syringing during the droughty weather. Dust whilst damp with 
flowers of sulphur. 
Eucharis amazonica (J. E., Kenilworth ).— As your plants are strong and 
healthy they will no doubt flower well next year, as the pots, we assume, are now 
well filled with roots. Keep them in a light position, and continue watering 
them as usual until the approach of winter, then gradually reduce the supplies, 
but at no time permit the soil to become really dry. Your object should be to 
obtain thick dark leathery foliage, and preserve it, without encouraging growth 
during the winter. If in the spring you can plunge the pots in a little bottom 
heat and then increase the supply of water the plants will flower freely : indeed 
healthy plants flower freely without bottom heat after they have had a period 
of rest. They will not need repotting. 
Propagating Evergreens and Roses (The Captain’s Man).— About the 
middle of September, or when the growths are partially matured, is a suitable 
time for inserting cuttings of Laurels and Aucubas. Choose short-jointed 
growths, securing a little of last year’s wood at the base of each, and insert 
them rather deeply and firmly in sandy soil. If the weather proves dry they 
will need watering occasionally. An admirable method of striking Rose cut¬ 
tings was described by Mr. Taylor in our issue of July 21st of the present year. 
We tried the plan after reading the article in question, and now have a number 
of well-rooted plants. Cuttings will also strike if inserted in the open ground at 
the present time, choosing tolerably firm wood, and making the cuttings about 
6 inches long, removing all the leaves except the top pair, and inserting the 
cuttings quite up to these leaves in a rather shaded position. They must be 
made quite firm, and be sprinkled as often as is necessary to keep the foliage 
fresh. Read also what Mr. Taylor wrote on keeping the cuttings fresh and 
moist. This is a matter of the greatest importance. 
Judging at Shows (TV. <?.).—Nothing brings horticultural societies into 
greater disrepute than employing judges who are not experienced in the work 
of making awards. All good gardeners are not good judges, and we have not 
infrequently seen some of the best of cultivators in a state of nervousness that 
led to bewilderment when endeavouring to make the awards when there has 
been close competition. As a rule it is a wise course to secure judges who do 
not reside in the district in which a show is held, and it is extremely desirable 
that they be fairly remunerated for their services. The show to which you 
allude appears to have been unusually ill-judged. We have'seen mistakes made 
occasionally ; but after having visited, say, five hundred exhibitions, we have 
not been so unfortunate as to witness one where “ all the worst plants and vege¬ 
tables had the best prizes.” We presume economy has been exercised, and it has 
proved false. The remedy we have indicated. 
Propagating Carnations (Reader). —If you have a little bottom heat, 
such as a bed of fermenting materials, we should convert the pipings into 
cuttings by severing them close under a joint, removing, slipping off. the lowest 
pair of leaves, and shortening those above them. These, if inserted in moist 
sandy soil and covered with a bandlight, will root more quickly than slips 
inserted in the open ground. For the open air slips are preferable to cuttings. 
