248 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September 15, 1881. 
the grounds of the Royal Vineyard establishment; but the loss 
of this ground is most fully compensated for by the important 
branch establishments at Isieworth, the propagating ground for 
choice Conifers under the care of Mr. Marslen ; the arboretum, 
which almost adjoins, where Mr. Webb has charge of the fine 
collection of ornamental deciduous trees ; at Feltham, where Mr. 
Dixon manages the evergreen and Conifer department; and at 
Ealing, where fruit trees, Roses, &c., are grown by Mr. Cannon. 
It was over this great business that Mr. Charles Lee so ably 
presided until the time of his lamentably sudden death. He 
married a second time only a few years ago, and leaves a widow 
and two young children to mourn his loss and receive the sym¬ 
pathy of a host of friends. 
THE HYACINTH. 
Having on page 248, last vol., described the method of cul¬ 
tivation adopted in Holland I will now refer to the system 
pursued in England, first noting their culture in glasses. Under 
this system Hyacinths will be most likely to find favour with 
those who cultivate them in dwelling-houses, in consequence of 
their presenting a more ornamental appearance, taking up less 
space, and requiring less attention than when grown in pots. 
Having prepared the glasses by well washing them, nearly fill 
them with clear soft water, in which place one or two small 
pieces of charcoal ; this keeps the water pure for a long time 
and is beneficial to the plant; place a bulb in each glass and 
fiil up with water until it almost touches the base, then place 
the glass in a cool dark room or cellar in any airy situation, 
the object being to encourage root-action, which is more rapid 
than when exposed to the influence of light. In about a fort¬ 
night most of the bulbs will emit a number of roots, which, if 
the bulb is a good one, will be in an unbroken circle round the 
outside of the base. They should be allowed to remain until the 
roots have almost reached the bottom of the glasses and the 
flower spikes are about an inch in length, when they must be re¬ 
moved to the light, which should be subdued for the first change ; 
afterwards bring them gradually into full daylight, when the 
spikes will change from a pale yellow to a green colour, increasing 
in depth. At this period they must be placed in a window as near 
the glass as possible, in order that they make a healthy growth. 
When the bulbs have been started a week or two examine the 
water to see if it is pure and sweet, also take out the bulbs one by 
one and carefully remove off the brown shiny substance that will 
be found in the inner circle of the rootlets; this, if permitted to 
remain, is often the cause of the water becoming turbid. Care 
must be taken in doing this not to injure the young roots, which are 
very brittle. Change the water whenever it becomes in the least im¬ 
pure. As the roots descend they must be watched, as a whitish film 
occasionally forms upon the ends. This, if permitted to remain, 
will turn them black and destroy the tip ; it is easily remedied 
by taking the bulb out of the glass, holding it in the left hand 
with the roots in a bowl of water, and carefully drawing them 
through the fingers of the right hand. I have found the film 
form much more frequently when charcoal is not placed in the 
water. For some time after the plants are brought to the light 
they should have the coolest and most airy situation that can be 
given them, but they must not be allowed to remain in any heated 
atmosphere until the flower spike is well advanced, when they 
may be hastened into bloom by being kept for a few days or a 
week in a room where there is a fire ; care must, however, be 
taken to avoid their being unduly drawn and weakened. As soon 
as the flowers are well open they are best in a cool temperature, 
and by attending to this rule they may be kept fresh, and will 
last double the length of time that they would if permitted to 
remain in a heated room. As the flower spikes advance keep 
turning the glasses round, so that each part of the plant is equally 
exposed to light. Many will require supports, as, the roots having 
nothing to hold to, the plant soon becomes top-heavy, and the 
flower spikes would frequently break if not properly supported. 
In growing Hyacinths in pots I prefer a mellow loam enriched 
with well-decayed manure from an old hotbed rendered porous by 
an addition of sharp sand, say loam three parts and manure one 
part, well mixed together. If not easily procurable I do not 
hesitate to use the best compost I have at command, not being 
very particular in this respect, although I would always advise 
the use of good loam. As I can produce almost as good blooms 
in water as in soil, I am convinced that it is not so much the 
quality of the soil we employ as the previous treatment we have 
to depend upon for the desired result. The embryo bloom being 
properly developed in the bulbs before we obtain them, their after 
treatment differs materially from that which must be pursued in 
order to produce similar results in floriculture generally. 
Having prepared the soil, take some clean 5-inch pots, the 
deeper the better ; place not less than an inch of crocks or charcoal 
broken to the size of hazel nuts for drainage ; then fill up with the 
coarse part of the soil to within about an inch of the rim, shake 
it down by knocking the pot upon the potting bench, sprinkle a 
little sand on the surface, place the bulb in the centre, press it 
gently down, and nearly cover it with the finer portions of the 
soil. A little care is necessary, for if the soil is too firm the bulb 
will rise out of its place as the roots are emitted, and if too loose 
the roots are liable to injury by the soil frequently becoming dry. 
When the whole batch is potted give a slight watering, which 
consolidates the soil and fixes the bulbs. Many growers do not 
advise watering at this stage, but I have always found it bene¬ 
ficial. Those who have the convenience should place the pots 
upon a bed of ashes, covering with not less than 6 inches depth 
of cocoa-nut refuse, fine charcoal, or ashes, sloped to throw off 
the rain. I prefer the former, which being light does not easily 
injure the spikes, but if used it should be pressed carefully down 
to make it rather firm. Those who have not the convenience for 
plunging the pots out of doors may place them in a packing box 
and cover with either of the above materials, or they may invert 
a small flower pot over each bulb in lieu of plunging, and place 
them in a cool dark cellar or outhouse, which answers the purpose 
equally well. No further care is needed for some time. In about 
two months the bulbs will produce plenty of roots, and the pots 
should be cleansed, and plants gradually brought to the light. 
The after treatment should also be the same as for those in glasses, 
except that liquid manure or soot dissolved in water may be given 
occasionally with advantage, as the flower spikes advance and 
begin to show colour. Attention must be given to the soil, which 
should never be allowed to become very dry, or the roots will 
shrink and be injured. In watering take care that sufficient is 
given to moisten the whole. 
It must be borne in mind that Hyacinths cannot be cultivated 
so successfully in dwelling-houses as in greenhouses, no matter 
what care and attention you may bestow upon them ; still I know 
no plant that can be so well grown in rooms, and that will adapt 
itself to circumstances as it does. Amateurs who possess a green¬ 
house may follow the treatment described but with better results. 
Hyacinths grown in rooms frequently become very dusty, when 
the leaves must be sponged or given a gentle watering overhead 
with a can with the rose on ; this is often very beneficial, as it 
softens the outer coating of the bulbs which the dry air renders 
hard, particularly round the collar of the spike. When the 
flower buds are about to open this process must be discontinued. 
In all cases avoid extreme temperatures and sudden changes, and 
bear in mind that, as a rule, the longer the period of growth the 
better the blooms. 
The Hyacinth being a hardy plant will bear much frost without 
injury, though it is not desirable that it should become frozen ; if, 
however, the water in the glasses be frozen during severe weather, 
with care in thawing little or no damage will result. I have had 
the water frozen solid and the glasses broken, in which case I 
took the plants with the ice firmly attached to the roots and 
placed them in water a few degrees above the freezing point, and 
allowed them to remain until sufficiently thawed to be able to 
remove them without breaking any of the roots, afterwards I 
placed them in the coldest water I could procure, and kept them 
very cool for a few days, when they grew and bloomed as usual 
and did not appear to have sustained any injury. 
October is the best month for starting them into growth, but 
this may be deferred until December. I would not, however, 
recommend this being done later than the middle of November, 
as some of the earlier sorts will begin to push up the spikes, 
and when this has taken place they do not root so freely, con¬ 
sequently the blooms are not so good, and disappointment is 
occasionally experienced from this circumstance. For forcing 
and for glasses the single varieties are the best, although some of 
the double varieties succeed very well in glasses. For pot culture 
all varieties are suitable. 
In conclusion I would remind all who may be desirous of culti¬ 
vating the Hyacinth of the danger of attempting to follow im¬ 
plicitly any instructions they may receive without first considering 
their requirements and facilities, which vary so much that it is 
impossible for the most elaborate and exhaustive treatise to meet 
every case. A little sound judgment coupled with care and 
attention is all that is needed to become a successful cultivator.— 
John Haigh.—( Read before the Sheffield Horticultural Society.') 
The Cypress Groves op Mexico.—A writer in an American 
journal describes these as follows :—“ There are in the park 
probably not less than a thousand fine Cypress trees, whose 
