254 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September is, isn. 
We would suggest to the Committee that in future it would be 
very much better in an exhibition of this magnitude to issue a 
catalogue. The prize cards did not even mention the name of the 
successful competitors. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Osborn & Sons, Fulham.— Catalogue of Fruit Trees and Grape 
Vines. 
Geo. Cooling & Son, Bath.— Catalogue of Bulbs. 
Samuel Yates, 16 and 18, Old Miligate, Manchester.— Catalogue of 
Bulbs ( Illustrated). 
Samuel May, Leeds.— Catalogue of Bulbs. 
%* All correspondence should he directed either to “ The Editor ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
The Canary Creeper (.1. J . S.). —The Tropaeolum ordinarily designated 
by the above popular name is Tropmolum peregrinum, and there is not, as you 
suppose, a species correctly named T. canariense, which is a popular but erro¬ 
neous title for the plant you have. If you have access to a library containing 
the “Botanical Magazine ” you will find the plant figured on plate 1351. 
Portland Cement for Hot-water Pipes ( Eighteen-years Subscriber).— 
We know by experience that Portland cement makes sound and lasting joints. 
It is well to first press in a little packing firmly, then apply the cement carefully 
and smoothly; if a leakage occurs—and we have seen more than one—it is solely 
in consequence of a want of care on the part of the workman who used the 
cement. It is worth remembering, however, that it is almost impossible to re¬ 
move pipes from the sockets that are jointed with cement, and we do not advise 
its use unless the heating arrangements are intended to be permanent. 
Bouquets (//. S.). —There is no standard size for bouquets. The question 
is determined by taste and the custom of localities. In some districts it is the 
fashion to have hand bouquets much larger than in others, as may be seen by 
the competition at local shows. You cannot do better than note the sizes of 
the prize bouquets at the best shows in your district. Generally speaking, how¬ 
ever, the choice of flowers and the free and tasteful method in which they are 
arranged are of far more importance than an inch more or less in the diameter 
of the bouquets. 
Peach Tree for Wall ( T. .S'.).—If Peach trees usually succeed in gardens 
in your district you might try the experiment of planting a Royal George, but 
whether it will ripen its wood and fruit well will depend entirely on the weather. 
We should not expect that a tree in such a position would have given satisfac¬ 
tion during the past four or five years. A Victoria Plum would be more certain 
to produce good crops of fruit, or a Williams’ Bon Chretien Pear. Strawberries 
are placed in houses from November to March, the time depending entirely on 
the character of the houses and the period when ripe fruit is required. On these 
points you afford us no data whatever for enabling us to answer your letter 
more explicitly. 
Garden Management (E. I)., Wickloic ).—We are obliged by youp letter, 
which shall have attention. The subjects to which you refer are so important 
that, although some of them have been prominently treated in our columns, 
they may be advantageously referred to again for the benefit of new readers 
and of those older subscribers who find the necessity of further advice that will 
tend to the better management of gardens. 
Mildew on Rose (A. A. M.). —The leaf of the Marechal Niel is attacked 
by mildew. Dissolve 2 or 3 ozs. of soft soap in a gallon of water, and with 
this syringe the plant, then dust the affected parts whilst wet with flowers of 
sulphur. The leaf you have sent is of an Abutilon, possibly A. vexillarium. It 
is suitable for training up a rafter in the greenhouse, where its pendant flowers 
can be seen to advantage. 
Golden Pyrethrum (L. .S'.).—The leaves were very much crushed, owing 
to having been sent in a letter instead of in a small box, and were not in con¬ 
dition to enable us to judge of the merits of the variety. So far as we can judge 
it appears to be a laciniated form of the old favourite, but the leaves are not so 
finely divided as the variety sent out by Messrs. Osborn & Sons under the name 
of Pyrethrum aureum laciniatum ; it may still, however, be a useful variety. 
Flavour of Fruits ( Inquirer ).—This is entirely a matter of taste, but the 
Black Jamaica is one of the richest flavoured Pine Apples in cultivation. The 
Muscat of Alexandria is not a red Grape but amber-coloured when in good 
condition, and its flavour is not surpassed by any other Muscat variety. We 
are unable to answer your third question as the names weie not published. In 
regard to your last inquiry you had better apply to Mr. Casella, meteorological 
instrument maker, High Holborn, London, who will supply you with the infor¬ 
mation you require. 
Heating Greenhouse (Amateur).— Small portable boilers and pipes have 
been frequently advertised in our columns that would be suitable for your house ; 
but, as we have many times stated, it is impossible that we can recommend 
dealers in any garden requisite. No doubt small portable boilers will be adver¬ 
tised again now that the period of the year has arrived when inquiries are fre¬ 
quent for them. AVe have not tried the fertiliser you mention, but it is no 
doubt suitable for plants in pots, and must be used according to the instructions 
that accompany it. Your last question is very vague, and we can only say that 
the majority of greenhouse plants will be safe during the winter if the night 
temperature is kept between 40° and 45 D , the day temperature by fire heat alone 
being about 5° higher. 
Various (A'. D.).— If the Arums are strong we think they would succeed if 
planted now, but should prefer planting in early summer towards the end of 
May or in June. All kinds of insects should be kept off Chrysanthemums by 
syringing the plants occasionally with weak tobacco water or any approved in¬ 
secticide. Tropmolum speciosum cannot be readily transplanted, and we should 
only attempt the removal of a portion of the plants, doing the work qnickly yet 
carefully immediately the growths appear in spring. Cerastium tomentosum 
would form a suitable silvery carpet for your bed, small portions being dibbed 
in an inch or two apart now or in March. Any permanent covering would ex¬ 
haust the soil more or less, but whether to the extent of injuring the Clematises 
no one can tell without knowing the condition of the plants. Consult with a 
good practical gardener on the spot. The Imantophylluras are too much shaded. 
If you stand the plants in a warm position out of doors in July, and let them 
remain so long as the weather is warm, they will probably bloom if they are strong 
and healthy and the pots well filled with roots. Your Luculia will probably not 
recover unless you can plant it out in a light position in the house. It cannot 
be successfully grown under Vines, and is seldom seen in good condition when 
attempts are made to cultivate it in pots by amateurs. 
Mildew on Peach Trees (Roby). —Mildew is much more prevalent during 
some seasons than others, and its spread is much accelerated by dryness at the 
roots and a close moist atmosphere. You had better cleanse the house tho¬ 
roughly after the leaves have fallen from the trees, and then paint the branches 
with a composition of sulphur and clay, a little of the latter being added to 
make the former adhere. The border if inside the house should also be ex¬ 
amined, as it may be dry where the roots are, and a portion of the top soil 
removed and fresh compost added. Immediately mildew appears in the spring 
dust the affected parts with sulphur. Mr. Bardney prevents mildew attacking 
Perch trees and Roses by syringing with a solution of soft soap made as follows : 
A lump of soft soap (about 2 lbs. or so) is placed in a saucepan and boiled for 
twenty minutes; this is placed in a large pot and mixed with five or six gallons 
of water. About half a pint of this solution is placed in an ordinary large 
watering can full of water, and used every time the trees and Roses are syringed. 
Not a vestige of mildew is seen on the foliage, and the water does not injure 
the petals of the Roses. 
Figs Unsatisfactory (J. A.).—Your former letter did not reach us. The 
cause of the fruits dropping is either the result of the wood not having been 
matured, or imperfect fertilisation, or both. You can scarcely expect satisfac¬ 
tory crops if the trees are closely crowded against evergreens. Light and air 
are essential for maturing the wood, and unless this is accomplished the atten¬ 
tion you give to the roots will be of little avail. Cannot you remove the ever¬ 
greens or shorten their growth ? Thin out the growths of the Figs, too, during 
the summer, retaining those that are short-jointed, and exposing the foliage to 
the full action of the light and air. You do not state whether the trees ever 
have ripened good crops ; if they have not, possibly the position is not suitable 
nor the variety the best for outdoor culture. Overluxuriance caused by too 
rich soil, and overcrowding of the trees, are common causes of failure in Fig cul¬ 
ture in the open air. 
Mildew on Grapes (G. J/.).—Only a portion of your letter can be read in 
consequence of its having been placed with the fruit that was much injured in 
transit, and the juice extracting the writing. So far as we can gather your man¬ 
agement as regards temperature has been correct. Your Vines no doubt re¬ 
ceived a check, either by the inclemency of the weather in the spring, or by 
being too dry at the roots Had you applied sulphur to the berries immediately 
the mildew appeared and repeated the application as needed they would not 
have been in the condition they are now. See what we have said in reply to 
another correspondent, "Roby,” and read also an article on page 256 of our issue 
of September 15th, 1880 ; if you attend to the instructions referred to you may 
expect better results next year. If you do not possess the number we have men¬ 
tioned it may be had from the publisher in return for 3 jd. in postage stamps, 
with a request that he send you No. 12 of the third series. 
The Cucumber Disease (IF. Turner ).—The form of disease that has 
ruined your crops is, we regret to say, incurable, at least it has baffled the 
efforts of the most skilled gardeners and best Cucumber growers who have 
attempted its extermination. You appear to have done all in your power to 
save your plants and crops, and we can only suggest that you cease attempting 
to grow Cucumbers in the house for two years, and endeavour to produce a 
supply in frames or hotbeds. We have known cases where it was impossible 
to grow Cucumbers in a disease-stricken house while the plants in frames 
flourished, but this is not always the case. The only practical mode of main¬ 
taining a supply of fruit where the disease exists is to keep on constantly 
raising young plants, and let each, if they will, bear two or three fruits before 
the disease developes into a virulent form. If you would like to read much that 
has been published on this form of disease you will find it in vol. xx. of the 
Journal; if you do not possess this volume the following numbers, which can 
be had from the publisher in return for 3 \ d . each, will answer your require¬ 
ments—524, 526, 529, 530, 532, 534, and 536. No. 720 contains illustrations of 
the Cucumber root disease, which will afford you instruction. 
Hedge for Kitchen Garden Boundary ( Ignoramus ).—Privet would 
grow the most quickly, and though forming a good screen is not strong 
enough to resist cattle. A mixture of Privet alternating with Quicks makes a 
somewhat stouter hedge, but the Privet outgrows and smothers the Quicks, and 
though a screen is thereby quickly formed it is not equal to one formed of Quicks 
alone, which we should have. The ground should be well trenched and manured 
so as to encourage a good growth of the Thorns. The trenching should be done 
with as little delay as possible, to admit of the plants being planted as soon as 
it is safe to move them, or when the leaves have fallen. Plant strong recently 
transplanted Quick, eight plants in a yard in a single row, and when the buds 
are swelling in spring cut the stems off about 4 inches from the ground. This 
will cause them to form a close bottom and make strong upright growth. 
Keep the ground clear of weeds through the summer, and in winter point over 
the soil on both sides so as to form a loose surface, and bury any weeds, but not 
so deep as ta interfere with the roots. The fence may be trimmed in July with 
the shears, having the hedge about 9 inches in width at the base and slightly 
narrowing upwards. When about 36 inches in height it should be topped, and 
about 6 inches added to the height annually until the height required is at¬ 
tained. A double row of Quick makes a stouter fence, and a firmer and closer 
base is had by plashing—that is, letting the Thorns grow for a few years without 
topping, and then cutting and laying them down slantingly and keeping them 
in position with stakes. The fence must be protected from animals until it is 
established. 
Disbudding Chrysanthemums (F. IF.). —We are obliged by your letter, 
and have endeavoured to carry out your suggestion, but it was not practicable. 
The superfluous buds must be removed before they are developed so much as to 
show clear of the foliage; they, in fact, must often be searched for and carefully 
removed with a penknife when they are little larger than pins’ heads. Mr. Moor- 
