September 29,1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 287 
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about the fruit colouring, but was informed that it had been quite 
satisfactory in that respect. Melons are largely and well grown 
in pots, the only artificial heat the plants have being that from 
the bed of leaves on which they are planted. 
The produce of two varieties of Potatoes that had just been dug 
is noteworthy—namely, Mammoth Pearl 438 lbs., and Matchless 
only a few pounds less ; the former is a large and somewhat 
irregular tuber, the latter more symmetrical, being of the shape 
of Paterson’s Victoria : 14 lbs. of each were planted, and grown 
in the ordinary way. Both these Potatoes are of excellent quality. 
Abundance of produce is secured from this garden, and the 
various departments reflect the highest credit upon the manager. 
—A Countryman. 
(To be continued.) 
TOMATOES AT THE MANCHESTER EXHIBITION. 
I have been very interested in the full report of the above 
Show. It was not my fortune to see what must have been a grand 
exhibition ; and I do not wish to find fault with my award, but I 
think for the guidance of exhibitors the awards should be ex¬ 
plained. Good medium-sized, but perfect specimens, of the three 
kinds of Tomatoes were sent, and I gather from various sources 
mine were considered the best. I could have sent fruit double 
the size or even larger, as I had at that time fruit up to a pound 
in weight, but they were imperfect in form. I am informed that 
the fruits in the first and second prize collections were very ugly 
and much cracked. 
At the Alexandra Palace last year I took the precaution to 
stage one dish of large but irregular-shaped fruit, which were 
passed over, and I obtained the first prize for a smaller but better 
shaped medium-sized fruit. This I take for granted is as it should 
be, as I should always suppose, unless otherwise stated, that 
beauty would stand before size. I expected there would be good 
competition at Manchester, but did not think even in the Tomato 
class that any dish would be overlooked ; yet the awards surprised 
a few, and they were certainly misleading. 
I see by the published official catalogue there were twenty-one 
entries in Class 58, of which I believe most staged ; at least there 
were eighteen dishes staged, showing that the competition was 
good, yet in some of the gardening periodicals not the slightest 
notice has been taken of this class. 
I am writing at a disadvantage, as I did not see what was 
exhibited, but hope these remarks will be received as written—not 
in a carping or grumbling spirit, but simply to elicit further 
information to guide myself and others in staging Tomatoes for 
competition. 
Before I finish I ought to say, that although some weeks we cut 
over 1 cwt. of Tomatoes, yet I know how difficult it is to find a 
good dozen, so that great credit is due to the Manchester ex¬ 
hibitors.— Stephen Castle, Manager, The Vineyard, West Lynn, 
Norfolk. 
AUTUMN PROPAGATION OF BEoDING PLANTS. 
On page 171 I wrote at some length upon the propagation of 
such plants as Pelargoniums, Iresines, Coleuses, Verbenas, and 
Heliotropes ; and in continuation of those remarks I propose to 
offer a few hints upon hardier kinds, such as shrubby Calceolarias, 
Violas, and Echeverias. 
Calceolarias. —These are not so extensively grown as of old, 
owing to their fickleness—many plants frequently inexplicably 
dying some time after being planted, especially should hot dry 
weather prevail, this giving the beds an objectionable appearance. 
Where, however, they do succeed they are very effective, and as 
they are easily propagated and wintered they should be grown in 
quantity. The cuttings may be taken any time during October, or 
even in November, but it is not advisable to delay propagating 
till very late in the season, as the young growth—which must be 
selected—is liable to be injured by early frosts. Owing to the long- 
continued showery weather cuttings are very abundant, and also 
rather too succulent. The preference should be given to flowerless 
shoots well exposed and of medium size, and these may be cut below 
the third joint, or if extra sturdy at the fourth joint, and one or two 
pair of leaves may be trimmed off, the cuttings being inserted up 
to the second pair of leaves. Two or more handlights, or a single¬ 
light or double-light frame according to the number of plants 
required, may be utilised, and are most suitable for them, a dry 
heat being especially injurious to Calceolarias. No bottom heat 
is required, but it is advisable to form a shallow bed—say 
18 inches deep at the back with a slope to the front, with any 
half-decayed material, such as the linings of old hotbeds, on 
which to place the frames or handlights. In the case of deep 
frames more light rough material should be thrown in, the object 
being to bring the cuttings near to the glass. Over this a thin 
layer of common soil may be spread, next about 3 inches of finely 
sifted light sandy soil, finishing with a thin layer of sand, and 
beating down firmly with the back of a spade. The handlights 
to be placed on after the bed is prepared. The cuttings should 
not be crowded, or those that are sappy especially are liable to 
damp off. They may be disposed from 2 to 3 inches apart, and 
the base of each should always touch the bottom of the hole 
made by a slightly blunt dibble. They should be watered-in, and 
kept close and shaded from bright sunshine till rooted, which in 
the case of those inserted early in October would be effected by the 
end of November ; afterwards on favourable occasious, both by 
night and day, ventilate freely to prevent active growth at an 
unfavourable time. They will be unaffected by a slight frost, 
and should not be protected other than by the lights, unless severe 
frost is imminent, when in addition to mats or pieces of old carpets 
and similar protecting material, the whole bed and lights should 
be heavily covered with loose dry litter. If the plants be found 
to be frozen at any time sprinkle them with cold water, gradually 
exposing them to light when completely thawed. 
Violas. —Unlike the preceding these are rapidly increasing in 
popularity, the yellow varieties indeed being excellent substitutes 
for Calceolarias. They are hardy, but to have them in perfection 
during the summer months it is advisable to strike and winter 
them in handglasses or in cold frames prepared as recommended 
for the Calceolarias. In most cases a number of short flowerless 
shoots springing from the base, and about 2 inches loDg, will be 
found, and these should at once be taken and dibbled in about 
2 inches apart, and otherwise treated similarly to the Calceolarias. 
They will form roots readily during the winter, and become neat 
little plants fit for transplanting in April. Old plants are easily 
divided in the spring, but if allowed to remain in their present 
quarters will greatly impoverish the soil; and although plants 
obtained by division are the first to be effective they are the first 
to fail, especially during a dry season. 
Echeveria secunda ylavca. —These plants have long been exten¬ 
sively grown in large gardens, but I find amateurs do not under¬ 
stand their treatment, and this season several have asked for infor¬ 
mation on the subject. For “facing ” the margins of beds filled 
with carpeting plants or otherwise they are as much in demand 
as ever, surplus plants being in great request. During a com¬ 
paratively mild winter they will survive unprotected, especially 
if the position be a dry one ; it is safest, however, to lift and 
store them away closely in cold frames or in shallow boxes and 
placed in a light dry position. The stock is generally increased 
by division ; and at lifting time all the side shoots should be 
pulled off and dibbled in boxes or frames. Any light soil will suit 
them, and they should not be coddled—only protected from severe 
frosts, snow, and drip. Small pieces taken off this autumn will 
not grow to a sufficient size to be employed with the old plants 
next season, but may be planted in an inner line or a separate 
bed. 
Various Plants. —Sedum glaucum is much admired when form¬ 
ing a groundwork in a carpet bed ; it is hardy, and may be in¬ 
creased to a remarkable extent in the spring. Mentha Pulegium 
gibraltarica is not perfectly hardy, but a small quantity disposed 
in thin patches in cold frames, ventilated on all favourable occa¬ 
sions, an:l protected from very severe frosts, may be increased to 
any extent in the spring. Close thick patches are liable to damp 
off. Gnaphalium lanatum is now not much used. Cuttings may 
be struck and wintered in cold frames or handlights. Stachys 
lanata is a much more effective silvery-foliaged plant, is quite 
hardy, and easily propagated by division either in the autumn or 
spring. The old Gazania splendens is still worthy of cultivation. 
It is remarkably effective planted with Iresine Lindenii. Cut¬ 
tings of young growth may now be taken, treating them in every 
respect similar to the shrubby Calceolarias ; they will also strike 
in the spring with the assistance of a mild heat. I have omitted 
mention of the good old Verbena venosa. When the beds are 
broken up save a number of these with their roots entire ; reduce 
the tops considerably, pack the plants away closely in shallow 
boxes, and place them in a cold frame. Give sufficient water to 
keep the long thick roots plump, as these if cut into lengths an 
inch long, dibbled in thickly in boxes, and placed in heat, will 
each form a strong plant by the time required.—W. I. M. 
The Onion and Carrot Maggot.— The maggot in Onions 
and Carrots have been more abundant than usual this season. In 
this neighbourhood whole breadths have been entirely destroyed. 
The means I have taken to prevent it is when digging to give a 
good dressing of soot and lime if the ground has been trenched ; 
lightly fork it in afterwards. When the season arrives for sowing 
