296 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September 29, 1881. 
Gardens are indebted for the plant which flowered at Kew in 
October, 1878. Mr. Brown states there are two forms of the species 
—one with narrower leaves that have very indistinct cartilaginous 
margins.”— (Ibid., t. 6571.) 
CHILIAN BEET. 
Few plants are more useful or easier to grow than Chilian 
Beet. In the subtropical garden it contrasts well with the various 
shades of green. Iu lines or masses it also has a charming effect. 
If taken up and potted the plants are valuable for decoration in 
the houses. In potting them it is necessary to be careful in keep¬ 
ing the leaves from drooping, from which I have found they seldom 
recover satisfactorily. To avoid this they should be placed Id a 
cool frame and kept quite close for about a fortnight, damping 
them twice a day and shading. Pots 6 inches in diameter are large 
enough. The compost should be chiefly of well-decomposed manure 
and loam, supplying liquid manure frequently, as the pots are soon 
filled with roots, which require plenty of nourishment to keep 
the fleshy leaves in a healthy condition. In about three weeks 
after potting they may be safely removed to the greenhouse or 
conservatory. For decoration in the drawing-room and dinner 
table they are also invaluable, having a charming effect by arti¬ 
ficial light.— A Young Gardener. 
■/s> 
WORK foiithe WEEK.. ' 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Where advantage has been taken of the recent fair weather, the 
crops of Onions and Potatoes have been lifted and stored. The 
ground that has been occupied with Onions will be suitable for 
Cabbage, plants of which from the August sowing should be placed 
out as soon as ready, allowing them a distance of 18 inches every 
way, but if large heads are required 2 feet distance is not too much. 
Those for planting in spring or to fill-up vacancies through the 
winter should be pricked-out into beds about 3 inches apart. Where 
the demand for young Cabbages in spring is considerable, plant them 
a foot distance apart on warm borders. 
Lettuce .—Plants from the August sowing which are to afford the 
spring and early summer supply should now be planted, and may be 
taken on a warm south border in the intervening spaces between 
where the early Peas will presently be sown at 4 feet apart, placing a 
row of Cos in the centre, and a row of a Cabbage variety on each side, 
and this will leave a space of 2 feet for the Peas. Stanstead Winter 
Cabbage and the old Black-seeded Brown Cos are unsurpassed. Other 
borders may be planted so as to continue the succession ; and where 
there are borders available at the base of east or west walls they 
may also be occupied with Cos or Cabbage varieties, or both accord¬ 
ing to the demand, a distance of a foot being allowed from the wall, 
placing two rows 9 inches apart with the plants a foot asunder. 
After planting the main crop is completed, a quantity of the Cos 
should be pricked out on a sheltered border where protection can be 
given should the winter prove severe, and reserve some of the 
Cabbage varieties to fill up any vacancies that may occur, dusting 
the plants with quicklime to destroy slugs. Lettuces that are to 
occupy cold frames through the winter and afford an early spring 
supply should at once be planted, employing those from seed sown 
in late July of Early Paris Market, All the Year Bound, and Sugar- 
loaf Bath Cos. Plant in alternate rows the Cabbage and Cos at 9 inches 
distance apart, the Cabbage sorts being G inches apart in the rows 
to allow of every alternate one being cut early, and the Cos 9 inches 
apart. The soil should be rich and moderately firm. Due attention 
must be paid to watering, and precautions should be taken to guard 
against the depredations of slugs, not placing the lights on the 
frames until frost occurs or w'hen heavy rain3 prevail, ventilating 
freely when the temperature outside exceeds 35°. It will also be 
necessary to provide accommodation for the Lettuce and Endive, 
which are to be lifted from the open ground to give a continuous 
supply when that outside is injured or destroyed by frost. It will be 
an advantage to lift the plants now that are sufficiently advanced in 
growth for the purpose, and they will withstand damp much better 
than those lifted after they have become saturated with the autumn 
rains. Where large supplies of Lettuce and Endive are needed 
shallow pits with moveable lights should be provided, and sufficient 
means of affording artificial heat to exclude frost. Endive may yet 
be planted at the foot of walls or in other w T arm situations to give a 
supply in spring. The best for planting now are Green Curled and 
Picpus, with the Close-hearted or Round-leaved Batavian. 
Parsley which is sown in pits should be well thinned, and when 
the nights become frosty the lights may placed on and removed 
during the day. If it was inconvenient to sow in the pits, spring- 
sown plants may be carefully lifted and planted in pits, or where 
these are not at command plant in deep boxes or pots, and place 
them in an orchard honse or vinery where the fruit has been cut. 
Where Chervil is in regular demand it may be treated in a similar 
manner. 
Radishes .—Make a sowing in a fiarne filled to within 9 inches of 
the glass with rich light soil, keeping the lights on until the seed has 
germinated, when they must be removed except when frost prevails. 
The best varieties for this purpose are Early Forcing Bed and White 
Turnip, Wood’s Frame, and French Breakfast. 
Cauliflowers .—Prick out the best of the plants from the August 
sowing into handlights, having eleven plants in a 2-feet-square light, 
and proportionately less in those of smaller dimensions, every alter¬ 
nate plant being lifted spring so that five remain to give heads in 
May or June; south or at least a warm situation should be chosen 
for these. Supply water if necessary, and dress with lime, wood 
ashes, or soot to destroy slugs. The lights must be kept off until 
frost so as to induce a hardy sturdy habit. Prick off into frames a 
requisite number of the others for spring planting, employing good 
loam, as they grow much more sturdily in strong than in loose light 
soil. To insure an early supply promising plants from the August 
sowing of Yeitch’s Early Forcing may be placed in 3-inch pots and 
plunged in ashes in a frame, exposing them fully until winter, and then 
employ the lights only during frost, ventilating freely on all favour¬ 
able occasions. When the pots are filled with roots transfer the 
plants to others a couple of inches larger, keeping them about an 
inch lower in the pots, and in December place them in a Peach or 
other cool house ; there they will make steady progress, and may be 
shifted into 7-inch pots when the others are filled with roots, supply¬ 
ing liquid manure. In February or March transfer the plants to any 
available deep pits, the heads being about a foot from the glass, and 
there with protection over the lights on frosty nights, plenty of 
air when the weather is favourable, and liberal supplies of liquid 
manure, heads for cutting will be obtained a fortnight or three 
weeks in advance of those from handlights. 
Let no opportunity pass in favourable weather without attending 
to earthing up Celery requiring it, and in tying up Cos Lettuces and 
Endive. Be prepared in case of sudden frost to cover French Beans, 
and to take up and protect Cauliflowers which are fit for use. A few 
of the outer leaves turned inwards over the heads will mostly be 
sufficient to protect them from frost for some time yet. Clear off 
exhausted crops of Peas, Beans, and Cauliflo'wers, and have all in 
readiness for digging and trenching, the latter being attended to as 
early as convenient while there is yet warmth in the soil, as trench¬ 
ing in cold weather is only turning under cold soil and retarding the 
growth of he crops in spring correspondingly. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Where it is intended to have ripe Grapes by the end of 
April or beginning of May the Yines must’ be pruned at once, as the 
house will need to be closed by the middle of November, and forcing 
must be commenced early in December. The glass should be 
thoroughly cleaned, and the woodwork be washed with soap and 
water, and if necessary painted. The loose bark may be removed 
from the Yines, and then thoroughly wash them with tepid soap and 
water. If red spider has been present a dressing with an insecticide 
will be beneficial. Remove the old mulching and surface soil, supply¬ 
ing a few inches depth of fibrous loam with which has been incorpo¬ 
rated about a twenty-fifth part of bone manure. The outside border 
