October 6 , 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 309 
not been required as part of their routine cultivation for some 
years until last season, when the beds had one good soaking to 
carry them through the flowering season and to render the corms 
plump. 
The third point I have noted as essential is lifting the late 
plants in order to finish growth under glass. Those who have 
only a small stock may lift each plant and pot it. This can be 
performed at the bed as the plants are lifted, the ordinary soil of 
the bed being good enough for this purpose. Place the plants in 
an airy house and keep them watered until the foliage has ripened. 
Our plan now is to lift and carry at once to the border of a late 
Peach house, where they stand with good balls of soil attached 
until ripened. In a year like the present where the bloom is late— 
at least thus far north it is—our whole stock will be lifted and 
ripened under glass. I think such a beautiful plant as the Gladiolus 
is quite worth all the trouble. 
In planting we draw a deep drill with a hoe, place some coarse 
sand under and over the corms, label as planting goes on, and 
level the soil. In our case 5 inches is about the average depth we 
plant the corms. When I had only a few dozen corms they were 
planted in clumps in the flower borders, a hole being made and 
a couple of shovelfuls of a rich prepared compost placed in and 
mixed with the soil of the border. Five or six corms were planted 
in one clump. 
The routine summer work consists in hoeing the beds once a 
fortnight, and when the spikes appear they need support. I have 
discontinued giving each plant a stake, but insert stout stakes at 
equal distances in each row ; run a strong string along, twisting 
it round each stake, and to this string the spikes are tied. The 
stakes need not be more than from 2 to 2^ feet out of the ground. 
This plan succeeds admirably in our windy garden. I consider 
it a great improvement, as the flowers can be seen without a 
lot of sticks appearing at the same time. When a few spikes 
are wanted for exhibiting it is necessary to shade them from the 
time the first flower opens. A newspaper supported by three 
sticks answers the purpose well. If the weather is very hot and 
the under flowers in any of the spikes likely to wither, cut these 
spikes and place them in a bottle of water in a cool room or cellar. 
In dull weather again a spike may be forwarded by placing it in 
a cool stove. Remove all spikes that have flowered. When the 
corms are lifted I always allow the soil to remain attached to the 
roots, and allow all green leaves to turn yellow before removing 
them. The soil need not be removed from the corms till spring, as it 
serves to protect the small corms, which cluster in numbers round 
the base of the large one. I have never made much of these small 
corms. When planted in the open garden large numbers never 
grow, and when placed in pots they have often failed because suffi¬ 
cient attention could not be given them. However, they are worth 
looking after as a means of increasing stock. I think of setting a 
frame apart for these, allowing them to remain until they have 
finished their growth. If especially fine spikes are required try a 
little guano or potassic nitrate strewn on the surface of the bed 
just as the spikes are showing.—R. P. Brothebston. 
AMERICAN BLACKBERRIES. 
To all who care for preserved Blackberries, either in the form 
of jelly or jam, I would say, Plant the American varieties. A 
single row across a quarter of the kitchen garden has afforded 
bushels of fruit this year, from four to five gallons being picked 
each time that successive batches have become ripe enough for 
gathering. A rude fence of poles was made G feet high, and the 
long unpruned growth tied upon it soon grew into one of the 
most ornamental hedges conceivable.— Edward Luckhubst. 
I have forwarded a few bunches of the Parsley-leaved Bramble. 
Two years ago I had seme planted against a rough wall, which 
is now covered, and the plants loaded with fruit similar to 
those sent you ; they look ornamental, and the fruit is fine for 
either tarts or jam. We have not had two fine days consecutively 
for several weeks, so that the flavour is not nearly so good as 
usual ; they were very wet when gathered this morning.— James 
Carter, Keighley. 
[The specimens sent indicate the great productiveness of this 
Blackberry, and for covering fences and forming arches over 
walks it is admirably adapted. As thus grown it is highly orna¬ 
mental, and the fruit is useful.— Ed.] 
Cassia COBYMBOSA. —As an autumn-flowering plant I find this 
very useful, the abundant bright yellow flowers being pleasing at 
this season. Any plants that have still a number of flowers to 
open will do so more freely if placed in a light position in a 
house a few degrees warmer than an ordinary greenhouse, and 
thus a prolonged supply of flowers will be obtained. Plants that 
have flowered should at once be cut back, and may be placed at 
the warmest part of the greenhouse, where they will soon com¬ 
mence growth, and will continue growing slowly through the 
winter. If not cut back closely after flowering it soon becomes 
straggling in growth.—A. G. A. 
CIIRYSOCOMA LINOSYRIS. 
Goldilocks is probably known to many of our readers as a 
really valuable border plant for autumn flowering, but there are 
still some who have yet to make its acquaintance. To these the 
figure will convey an idea of the close-branching habit distinguish¬ 
ing the plant, the small linear pointed leaves, and tuft-like flower- 
heads ; but the chief attraction of Goldilocks is, as is quaintly 
indicated in the popular name, the bright yellow colour of the 
Fig. 50.—Clirysocoma Linosyris. 
very abundant blooms. In Mr. Parker’s nursery a week since 
it was most attractive, long lines forming compact hedges so 
densely covered with the flowerheads that scarcely any foliage 
was visible. At a short distance these had a remarkable effect, 
even on a dull showery day, and when the sun is shining they 
contrast grandly with the similar lines of Dahlias, Asters, and 
other plants which render the Tooting Nursery so attractive and 
interesting at this time of year. 
SELECT VARIETIES OF FRUIT. 
The following fruits are recommended after a somewhat 
lengthened experience with them. Doubtless many are omitted 
which are as good as some of those named, but I have en¬ 
deavoured to give a succession in each class which I believe may 
be fairly depended on. 
Dessert Apples. —Margaret, Juneating, Irish Peach, Devonshire 
Quarrenden, Kerry Pippin, King of the Pippins, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, and Dutch Mignonne. Kitchen Apples.- — Keswick Codlin, 
Golden Noble, Waltham Abbey Seedling (this requires no sugar), 
Blenheim Pippin (also a good dessert Apple), Dumelow’s Seed¬ 
ling, and Northern Greening. 
Pears for Standards, Walls, Pyramids, or Pushes. —Doyenne 
