320 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. r October e, issi. 
of short litter will make all safe for the winter, and encourage root- 
formation. At the time of root-pruning any useless shoots may be 
removed from the trees, so as to admit abundance of air and light 
in order to thoroughly ripen the bearing wood or spurs for next 
season. 
Intending planters should visit a nursery in good time and select 
their trees, and arrange for their being carefully lifted and packed with 
as little exposure of the roots as possible. A short list of reliable kinds 
may not be unacceptable to inexperienced fruit-growers. South walls 
are suitable for Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Figs, and generally 
a tree or two of some early or desirable kind of Plum and Cherry. 
Peaches. —Alexander, Hale’s Early, Dr. Hogg, G-rosse Mignonne, 
Royal George, Noblesse, Dymond, Barrington, Stirling Castle, and 
Lord Palmerston. Nectarines .—Lord Napier, Rivers’ Early Orange, 
Yiolette Hative, and Pine Apple. Apricots. —Kaisha, St. Ambroise, 
and Moor Park, with Shipley’s for preserving. In some localities 
Apricots succeed on east walls. Cherries .—Belle d’Orleans, Empress 
Eugdnie, and May Duke. Plums .—Early Favourite, July Green 
Gage, and Green Gage. Where Peaches do not succeed against walls 
those with a south aspect may profitably be occupied with Plums 
of the choicer kinds, such as Green Gage, Jefferson, Kirke’s, Trans¬ 
parent Gage, and Coe’s Golden Drop. Figs .—Brown Turkey, White 
Marseilles, and where there is plenty of space Brunswick. East 
walls are suitable for Cherries and Plums. Cherries .—May Duke, 
Bigarreau Napoleon, Governor Wood, and Nouvelle Royale. Plums , 
Dessert .—July Green Gage, Green Gage, De Montfort, Denniston’s 
Superb, Kirke’s, Jefferson, Transparent Gage, Purple Gage, Guthrie’s 
Late Green, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Ickworth Imperatrice. Culinary 
Plums .—Early Prolific, Czar, Prince Englebert, Pond’s Seedling, 
I Prince of Wales, and White Magnum Bonum. Pears are suitable for 
west walls, also east; some of the most suitable are Jargonelle, Beurrd 
d’Amanlis, Gratioli of Jersey, Beurrd Superfin, Louise Bonne of 
Jersey, Marie Louise d’XJccle, Durondeau, Doyenne dir Comice, 
Marechal de Cour, Marie Louise, Beurrd Diel, Yan Mons Leon Le- 
clerc, Passe Colmar, Beurrb d’Aremberg, Glou Moryeau, Winter Nelis, 
Josephine de Malines, Bergamotte Esperen, and Ne Plus Meuris. 
North walls are most suitable for Morello Cherries, but such Pears 
as Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chretien, and Comte de Lamy succeed 
fairly, and some of the free-bearing kinds of Plums—Early Prolific, 
Yictoria, Mitchelson’s, and Prince Englebert, with Belle de Septembre. 
Cherries of the Duke and Kentish class also succeed, Currants being 
grown in such positions for late use. Apples are seldom given a 
place against walls, but the fruit is much finer so grown than in the 
open. Some worth a place are Cobham, King of the Pippins, Melon, 
Dutch Mignonne, Northern Spy, Ribston Pippin, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Adams’ Pearmain, and Reinette du Canada. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Late Grapes that were judiciously assisted by fire heat in 
spring have crops of fine well-coloured fruit, calculated to winter 
much better than such as still require heat. Liberal ventilation will 
be required on all favourable occasions, and as the foliage ripens the 
temperature may be allowed to fall to a minimum of 50°. Ripe 
Grapes of the thin-skinned varieties, such as Hamburghs, should be 
examined twice weekly, removing decayed berries, stopping lateral 
growths, the houses being dry and cool, employing fire at night only 
to maintain a minimum temperature of 45° to 50°, and avoid sweep¬ 
ing, or dust will accumulate on the bunches. In order to secure the 
ripening of the wood of young Yines maintain a high and dry 
atmosphere by day, shutting off the heat and ventilating freely at 
night. To check growth the laterals should be moderately stopped ; 
but not so much as to give a sudden check or cause the starting of 
the principal buds. If former directions have been followed the 
earliest Yines have been pruned, and a good supply of fermenting 
materials should be prepared for making a bed inside the house, and 
for covering the outside border at least a fortnight before fire heat is 
commenced. A mixture of about two parts leaves with one of stable 
litter is suitable, giving a milder and more lasting heat than if com¬ 
posed of litter alone. If materials of this description are not obtain¬ 
able a covering of litter, or better of bracken, should at once be 
placed on the border. For covering the borders of late houses a 
supply of this material should be procured, or failing this dry litter 
or straw should be employed, as an equable temperature at the roots 
is essential to keep Grapes in good condition. 
Pines .—Young growing plants must at this season be so arranged 
as to obtain the fullest benefit of sun heat, and as this is diminishing 
the temperature at night should also be reduced, maintaining it at 
55° to 60°, and 65° in the daytime by artificial means. Yentilate 
freely whenever the weather is favourable. Particular attention 
must be given to watering, examining the plants at least once a 
week, and whenever water is needed supply it liberally. Plants in 
shallow beds of plunging material heated by hot-water pipes require 
water more frequently than those in beds of fermenting material. 
Fruiting plants, with the fruit in an advanced stage, must not be 
overwatered, as when this occurs and the temperature is not high 
the fruit sometimes turns black at the centre during the winter and 
early spring months. The temperature should be maintained at 70° 
at night, ranging the temperature from 75 Q to 90° in the daytime, 
closing at 85°, sprinkling the pathways when they become dry, and 
occasionally syringe the plants on sunny afternoons, keeping the 
bottom heat regular at 85° to 90°. 
Cucumbers .—The plants for winter fruiting must be planted out 
not later than the middle of the month to ensure a good supply of 
fruit by midwinter. Hot-water pipes are unquestionably the best 
means of affording bottom heat, but where fermenting materials are 
employed they should be had in a sweet condition. Be careful not 
to overcrop the autumn-fruiting plants, striving to maintain a healthy 
growth, which can only be secured by close and regular attention* 
Maintain a night temperature of 05° to 70°, 75° in the daytime, and 
ventilate moderately whenever the weather is favourable. Syringe 
lightly on bright afternoons, gradually reducing the supply of mois¬ 
ture as the days shorten. Place a little fresh compost to the autumn- 
fruiting plants about every ten days, affording weak tepid liquid 
manure twice a week, and fumigate moderately but repeatedly if 
aphides are observed. 
Melons .—Water should only be given to prevent the foliage flag¬ 
ging. Keep the foliage thinned so as to admit light freely. The 
last batch of plants have their fruits swelling, which must be sup¬ 
ported by tables, securing a temperature of 70° at night and 75° in 
the daytime, or more from sun heat. Fruits ripening need a dry 
warm atmosphere and a little air constantly ; those swelling require 
moderate atmospheric moisture, syringing lightly on bright after¬ 
noons. In dung-heated pits and frames the heat must be main¬ 
tained by linings, not giving any water at the roots after this. 
Yentilate freely whenever opportunity offers. Any fruits swelled 
to a good size and not likely to ripen in the frames for want of heat 
may be cut with a portion of stem, and placed in a sunny position 
in the Melon house or other warm structure. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Plants required to be saved from the frost must without further 
delay be taken up and placed under shelter. Tricolor, bronze, and 
any Pelargoniums of slow growth need not be cut back much, merely 
removing any crowded branches, leaving the other shoots their full 
length to afford a supply of cuttings in spring. The green-leaved 
varieties, being hardier, are not injured so readily as the ornamental¬ 
leaved varieties. Old plants, from the freedom with which they 
bloom, are preferable to those from cuttings struck either in autumn 
or spring, and where room is available these should be preserved} 
cutting back the tops and roots, and pot in as small pots as practi¬ 
cable, or they may be packed closely in boxes. The tender succu¬ 
lents, such as Echeveria metallica, Pachyphytums, Kleinias, and 
Sempervivum tabulseforme, should be taken up or protected from 
frost, for if in the least injured they are difficult to winter. Those 
recently propagated, also Coleuses, Iresines, indeed all plants that 
are tender and likely to be wanted for propagating purposes, should 
be housed at once. 
Herbaceous plants need attention, removing decayed leaves and 
flower stems. Anemone japonica and its variety alba has abundance 
of flowers. Aster Amellus, A. Amellus majus, A. coccineus, A. du- 
mosus, A. grandiflorus, A. longifolius formosus, A. spectabilis, A. 
nova-belgi, and A. patens are fine for autumn'; Tritomas are grand, 
and so still are Phloxes. Schizostylis when the autumn is mild is 
