342 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t October is, issi. 
ing the pots in onr Cattleya house he managed to break off several 
pounds’ worth of young shoots in spite of all warning. The 
sacrifice was greater than the difference in wages for a year or 
two. It is the same when we have to engage a young or a not 
first-class workman, simply because the wages are screwed down 
to the last shilling. 
This by the way, however. We were about to say something 
further upon potting. The subject has been discussed before, and 
we daresay most practitioners are agreed that the planting-out of 
a large number of plants, when that is practicable, secures better 
results than the pot system. It is, however, not practicable in 
small gardens, and neither is it so necessary ; still, in these, pots 
are too much used for plants when they are in the juvenile stage. 
Striking cuttings in small pots and pricking out small seedlings 
into pots is, we consider, a mistake. For small plants and cut¬ 
tings sandy soil is generally used. When this is placed in spoon¬ 
fuls into small 60’s it requires much mis-spent labour to prevent 
it becoming continually overdry, and much skill to keep it 
healthily moist. It is a thousand times better to place small 
plants the necessary distance apart in boxes. Calceolarias, Cine¬ 
rarias, Primulas, Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and all other soft and, 
in many instances, hardwooded plants, thrive much better treated 
thus, and if the soil be porous and flaky the plants may be lifted 
with fine balls of roots, and transferred at once to pots 6 inches 
wide. Young healthy plants will soon fill the pots with roots, 
and the plants will grow with a freedom never known by those 
nursed in thimblefuls of soil. 
We think a large number of plants suffer from being overpotted. 
We are decidedly in favour of growing plants in the smallest pots 
possible, for we rind it is easier to do so. Even many gross-feed¬ 
ing plants are spoilt by being overpotted. We do not advocate 
keeping plants rootbound, but decidedly prefer that evil to the 
opposite one. When a pot is only half filled with roots it needs 
some skill to keep the soil sweet, and sweet soil is necessary to 
health. 
It is surprising how plants will thrive in small pots if care be 
taken that the soil be never dry. We have had plants ot Fuchsias 
6 to 7 feet high and 3 to 4 feet through at the base, which bloomed 
for six months in 10-inch pots. Rootbound they certainly were, 
but souring was impossible, and we had them growing robustly 
by keeping the soil continually moist with weak sewage water. 
To secure this bi-daily waterings were necessary, but the results 
justified the works. By the same means we have Petunias in 
7-inch pots on trellises with 16 square feet of surface densely 
covered with flowers for months. Even such gross-rooting plants 
as Abutilons may be kept growing and flowering freely all summer 
in pots that were filled with roots in spring. Lapagerias, Camel¬ 
lias, Azaleas, Pelargoniums, Liliums, Pancratiums, Eucharises— 
indeed almost every plant, derives benefit from such treatment. 
We grow some dozens of the varieties of Cedo Nulli Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in 6-inch pots, and astonishing plants they are. Our con¬ 
servatory is so shaded that ordinary varieties in ordinary pots do 
no good ; but the Cedo Nullis flower magnificently under the 
treatment described. It is not always that we dare use sewage 
water in the conservatory. It may be of some use to many 
readers similarly situated to say that sulphate of ammonia is 
found of great benefit. A pinch of it in a canful of water has a 
wonderful effect in exciting and maintaining vigour for a time. 
It should not, however, be relied upon to produce permanently 
good results with valuable plants that are to live for years. 
Planting out Chrysanthemums, Solanums, Callas, and others for 
winter use saves considerable trouble when large quantities of 
plants are necessary. In small gardens it sometimes does not 
answer. We have given one reason why it does not succeed with 
us ; but there is another. Planted-out Chrysanthemums make 
enormous roots, which must be accommodated with large pots, 
and these look very bad in small houses. For the sake of appear¬ 
ances we find it better to have neat little bushes and abundant 
flowers. However, this is a matter that each must suit himself in. 
There is one thing, however, certain—namely, that large con¬ 
servatories and long corridors are better when furnished wdth 
plants growing in properly made borders. Well-made and drained 
borders are not easily soured, even by careless watering, and the 
consequence is that large numbers of plants so grown attain a 
condition far superior to those in pots.— Single-handed. 
Yanda teres in a Tropical Climate. —A correspondent of 
the Gardener writes as follows concerning this Orchid :—“ When 
I was in Singapore I found Yanda teres was brought down 
from Burmah in trading vessels and sold to the residents as a 
popular hardy flower for their gardens. 1 need scarcely say that 
Singapore possesses a tropical climate—a mean of 82°, I believe— 
so that all our Crotons and Dracaenas and other stove shrubs from 
both hemispheres grow there in the open borders and beds just 
like Phloxes and Delphiniums here in England. I was in the 
Botanical Gardens out at Tanglin one day, and saw in the 
distance a mass of flowers dancing in the hot wind. Seeing 
numerous stakes to the plants, and their lilac flowers, they 
reminded me of a mass of Sweet Peas in a sheltered home 
garden. ‘What is the pretty mass of Lilac yonder?’ I asked. 
‘Oh,’ replied the Curator, ‘that is Vanda teres !’ Planted out in 
the ordinary red loam of the island, it grew up the stout stakes, 
adhering by its numerous aerial roots as Sweet Peas or Vines 
cling by their tendrils : there it was in glorious flower, masses 
of it 7 feet in height and wide in proportion—a sight to delight 
anyone who only previously knew of Yanda teres as cramped in 
a pot, scorching and starved under a glaring roof of glass.” 
fpi 
WORK/oiyiheWEEK.. ' 
mmwsrm 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery should now be well earthed up, so that 'as little of the 
stems as possible will be exposed to the influence of frost. The 
stalks should be drawn together, and the soil made close about them 
with the hands, keeping the soil out of the centre of the plants. 
That ready for use will be more susceptible of injury, and if it 
suffer from frost will decay rapidly, hence the necessity of providing 
a good stock of dry litter or fern for protection when necessary, not 
only for this but also for Lettuces and Endive. Plant out Lettuce 
to stand the winter. Complete also pricking off Cauliflowers into 
handlights or frames, and guard against the depredations of slugs by 
dusting with quicklime, soot, or dry wood ashes. Plant the principal 
crop of Cabbages for spring or early summer use, encouraging the 
growth of these and winter Spinach by running the hoe between the 
rows. Cauliflowers and autumn Broccoli should be lifted and stored 
away, or the large outer leaves turned inwards over the heads will 
protect them from several moderate frosts. 
The main crops of Beet, Carrots, Salsafy, and Scorzonera may now 
be lifted, being careful not to cut the tops too closely, and, after re¬ 
maining a few days in an open shed to become moderately dry, store 
them in damp sand in a cool moist position. In lifting and trimming 
Beet it is necessary to avoid damage, otherwise the colour and quality 
will be injuriously affected. Keep Brussels Sprouts, Broccolis, and 
winter Greens free from decayed leaves, so as to expose and harden 
them as much as possible. 
In the frame ground Cauliflowers and Lettuces should be kept 
exposed as long as the weather continues open, but all should be in 
readiness for protecting them in case of frost. These vegetables 
should have all the air possible whenever the weather is favourable 
from now up to transplanting in spring. 
Fencing Department .—Tomatoes planted for winter and spring fruit¬ 
ing must have attention in thinning the shoots, stopping, and train¬ 
ing. Avoid overcrowding, affording a temperature 55° to 60° at night. 
If grown in pots tepid liquid manure should be supplied copiously. 
Continue sowing French Beans in pots according to the accommodation 
and demand, keeping them near the glass, moderately ventilated, 
affording tepid liquid manure, and a night temperature of G0° to 65°. 
Pits or houses containing late crops of these 'will need a similar 
temperature, and a little ventilation constantly. 
fruit houses. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The fruit is nearly all gathered in late 
houses. If there is any doubt about the ripeness of the wood fire 
heat should be given by day with a free ventilation, turning off the 
heat at night. Remove the bearing wood of the current year ; and 
if the wood for another season be at all crowded it should be well 
thinned, leaving as much as will be required for next season’s bearing, 
with full exposure for the foliage to light and air. Where young 
trees are growing luxuriantly and have shown a disposition not to 
set and stone well make a trench a few feet distance from the stem, 
