October 27, 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
387 
have seen, is in advance of Paterson’s Victoria. The Schoolmaster 
is a good cropper and excellent in quality, and is only very slightly 
affected with the disease.— Mid-Lincoln. 
WORKfo^tik WEEK.. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The recent frosts are a sure indication of the weather that may 
now be expected, and will act as a warning piot to delay any pre¬ 
cautionary measures in protecting or lifting those plants requiring it. 
Lifting Lettuce and Endive should be attended to, as the plants be 
kept from frost, for when the midribs become frozen the quality is 
much deteriorated. Where heated pits are not at command a good 
supply may be maintained by lifting the plants and packing them in 
soil in pits or frames, or a late Peach house, where with ventilation 
in mild weather and attention to protection the plants will remain in 
good condition a long time. Complete the taking-up of Carrots, 
Salsafy, Scorzonera, and a portion of Parsnips for immediate use, the 
main supply being left in the ground, or where this will interfere 
with the preparation for other crops the roots may be lifted and 
placed below the surface of the soil in a cool and shaded place and 
covered with litter. This is a good plan to adopt with Beet to pre¬ 
serve them in a fresh solid state until next year’s supply is fit for 
use. In storing roots avoid placing them in large stacks, or they 
will decay. Examine late-sown Turnips, and those fit for use should 
be taken up and stored, which will benefit the remainder of the crop. 
On a dry day take up Cauliflowers and stow them away in a pit 
or other sheltered place where protection can be given. Complete 
pricking out Cauliflower plants from the seed beds into handlights or 
frames, some of the plants being placed at the base of a south wall, 
which in an ordinary season withstand frost, and are useful for spring 
planting. Complete planting out Lettuce, Endive, and Cabbage as 
soon as possible, and guard against the ravages of slugs by occasional 
dustings with quicklime, soot, or dry wood ashes. Earth up late 
crops of Celery when the weather is suitable, giving a final earthing 
to such as require it. Clear off the haulms of Asparagus when they 
die, giving a dressing of well-decomposed manure after clearing the 
surface of weeds, and cover with soil from the alleys. The decayed 
leaves of Seakale may be removed and the crowns covered with a 
little spent tan, sawdust, or cocoa-nut refuse ; that required for 
forcing should be taken up and placed where it can be easily ob¬ 
tained when required. 
Frame Ground .—Eully expose Cauliflowers, Lettuces, Endive, and 
Radishes in frames whilst ’the weather is mild, employing the covers 
or lights only in case of frost. Stir the soil lightly about the plants, 
and remove decayed leaves as fast as they appear from Cauliflower 
and Lettuce plants, keeping a sharp look-out for slugs. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The earliest trees, as well as those ripen¬ 
ing fruit early in June, have shed their leaves, and should be finally 
pruned—a very trifling affair if former instructions have been attended 
to. Complete also cleansing the trees and houses. The lights should 
be placed on the earliest house, and air admitted fully for the present. 
They may remain off the second house if the weather continue mild 
for another month. See that the inside borders of these houses do 
not become dry, and if there be any appearance of dryness afford a 
thorough supply of water. Succession and late trees are late in 
casting the leaves, probably owing to the dull weather in August and 
September; but the buds are well developed, and the wood is ripening 
well though slowly. Where it is well ripened the heat, if it has been 
employed to assist this, must be discontinued. On no account must 
the ripening of the foliage be accelerated by a dry condition at the 
roots, for although that would cause the foliage to ripen early it 
would prevent the plumping of the buds, and they would fall later 
on through their defective development. At no time ought the soil 
to become very dry, and though a lessened supply of water is needed 
when the growth is ripening and the trees at rest, it is essential that 
the soil be constantly moist. 
Figs .—Trees in pots intended to be forced early, if they have been 
placed out of doors to harden, must, if not already done, be taken 
under cover to keep them from the cold autumn rains. Attending to 
thinning the shoots or top-dressing the surface soil must not longer 
be delayed, so as to have the plants ready for forcing in November. 
Preparation of leaves and litter for making fermenting beds for trees 
to be forced early in pots must also be commenced. Late trees per¬ 
manently planted out will now be shedding their leaves, and the 
Louses will need closing in wet weather, giving, however, abundant 
ventilation on all favourable occasions. Although the Fig will endure 
a drier condition of the soil when at rest than most other fruit trees, 
it should not be allowed to become so dry as to have an injurious 
effect upon the roots. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
The mixed border is the most suitable position for many bulbous 
plants, as they are not disturbed, and can ripen their growth without 
becoming unsightly. Liliums appear to much advantage, especially 
where backed up with dwarf evergreens, which also afford shelter 
from winds. The Lilies should be planted about G inches deep and 
surrounded with sand. The bulbous Irises also are beautiful, and 
should now be planted ; also Hyacinths, Narcissuses, Anemones, and 
hardy bulbs generally, surrounding each with a little sand. G-ladioli 
having ripened their growth sufficiently should be lifted, and are 
best wintered in not too dry a place, or they will shrivel and lose 
strength. Complete making beds of Pinks and Carnations, planting 
in a good dressing of soot and lime. Plant Pansies and Yiolas at 
once for spring and early summer flowering, also other border plants 
raised from seed as well as those from cuttings, which if planted 
early have a chance of becoming established before winter. Early 
autumn is the best time for examining herbaceous borders, and if 
any of the strong plants have outgrown the space allotted to them 
they should be reduced. To grow herbaceous plants well good soil 
and liberal cultivation are necessary, and where any have been long 
on the same ground removal and replanting will be beneficial, the 
ground being deeply trenched, working in plenty of thoroughly 
decomposed manure ; by doing this early in the season the plants 
have time to become re-established before winter. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse .—Herbaceous Calceolarias now require potting singly, 
3-inch pots being large enough, employing a compost of good fibrous 
loam, a fifth of leaf soil, and a similar quantity of well-decayed 
manure and a little sand, placing near the glass in a pit where they 
will be safe from frost. Should any aphides exist dip the plants in 
tobacco water previous to potting. Transfer the second batch of 
Cinerarias into the full size pots, and keep them in a light position 
where they will be safe from frost. Soil as advised for Calceolarias 
will suit them. Seedlings or suckers in small pots for late flowering 
should be potted, which will carry them on until January or February, 
when they should be again potted. Chrysanthemums must be placed 
out of danger of frost, and where there is no suitable house a canvas- 
covered framework may be employed for a portion of the plants in 
the southern parts of the country, but glass is absolutely necessary 
in the northern districts. Those required for late flowering in a house 
with a north aspect, in which they will move slowly and come into 
flower at Christmas. 
Azaleas .—Some of the earliest-flowering plants—such as A. Borsig, 
Narcissiflora, Raphael, alba, Fielder’s White, amoena, and its larger 
form, amcena Caldwelli—will now, if they were well managed after 
flowering, be in a condition to place in heat. A temperature of 55° 
will be sufficient, as when they come in without excitement in a high 
temperature the flowers are more lasting. A. vittata elegans flowers 
naturally in autumn, especially when subjected to a temperature of 
50° to 55°, the flowers being finer and more freely produced than in 
an ordinary greenhouse temperature. This, though an old plant, is 
not so frequently met with as it deserves, and, flowering over several 
weeks during the winter, is very useful for cutting, its white-striped 
flowers—some spotted, and others entirely purple—lasting long in 
