November 10,1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 419 
roots. The soil to be then forked away from the carefully preserved 
roots and thrown out, working-in to as near the stem as it is 
decided to go. In order to lighten the ball it is advisable to 
lightly fork off any surface soil not occupied with the roots, and 
then to carefully tie back to the stem all the strongest. Next 
commence to carefully and gradually undermine the ball with 
forks till only just sufficient soil is left to support the weight. 
A broad strong board of sufficient length to admit of two or four 
men to lift with, as the case may be, is then to be placed under 
the side most undermined (if there is any difference), a fork or 
forks worked-in on the opposite side, and the ball carefully eased 
over so as to balance on the board. To attempt to lift on to a 
board generally ends in the breaking-up of the ball, and it is 
also very advisable to make the ball as flat and thin as possible, 
this favouring lifting and replanting. As boards are awkward to 
carry it is a good plan to have a strong hand-barrow conveniently 
near with which to carry the loaded board, taking care to lift the 
tree out of the hole carefully and to carry it steadily. On reaching 
the previously prepared position, the tree is then to be taken 
exactly where it is to stand slightly pitched on one side, the other 
side slightly raised with one or more forks, and after the board is 
withdrawn carefully let down. The roots are unloosened, having 
their broken ends and all bruised pieces cut out to facilitate 
healing, and then the soil is filled-in. 
The fact of securing a good ball of soil, however, does not alone 
ensure the successful transplanting of a tree, it being of the utmost 
importance to have the new site properly prepared. In this 
matter, again, much must depend upon circumstances. To dig a 
hole only just large enough to hold the roots is decidedly false 
economy, especially where the surrounding soil has not been 
deeply stirred previously; yet how often do we see orchard and 
park trees planted in this manner. In such cases as these, sup¬ 
posing comparatively young trees to be planted, the holes ought at 
least to be 4 feet in diameter, and be still larger if larger trees are 
to be transplanted. The turf should be roughly pared off, next a 
moderate spit of soil and shovellings thrown out, and the subsoil 
broken up with a fork—not, however, to induce a downward root- 
action, but only to insure drainage. The turf may then be roughly 
chopped up and thrown in, as this on no account should be re¬ 
placed over newly planted trees. On this may be spread a thin 
layer of the best soil, mixing with this if possible a small quantity 
of either light well-decayed manure or other light leaf soil, or per¬ 
haps better than either would be the ashes from a heap of burnt 
garden rubbish. The tree being then placed on this even bottom the 
lower roots should be evenly disposed and carefully covered with 
soil, the next tier then laid out, and so on if there are many till 
the whole are covered, all being nearly flat and having a little of 
the above-mentioned light material about them. When finished 
off the mounds should be rather above the level, as they will sink 
considerably, and this also predisposes to surface-rooting. Unless 
the ground has been recently trenched the holes for trees in the 
kitchen garden or pleasure grounds should be prepared much in 
the same manner, and for fruit trees if a little fresh turf can be 
added so much the better ; but on no account manure the bottom 
spit, as the roots will go down fast enough without encouragement. 
Newly and properly planted fruit trees invariably require 
staking. If they do not the chances are they are planted too 
deeply and will not thrive. What is technically termed the 
“ collar ” of a tree or shrub—that is to say, the starting point 
of the topmost roots—should only be slightly covered. Better 
the collar be above than 6 inches below the level of the surround¬ 
ing soil. Newly-planted deciduous trees will not, as a rule, 
require any water at this time of year ; but in the case of ever¬ 
greens with matted roots it may be found advisable to soak the 
soil soon after planting, and again in the spring. The soil about 
the roots of either should on no account be allowed to become 
very dry, and should be frequently examined when dry or hot 
weather is experienced. To properly soak them form a basin with 
the loose soil, and fill this with water occasionally ; afterwards 
mulch with short fresh manure or other material. It is a good 
practice to mulch newly-planted trees at this time of year, the 
mulching enclosing warmth and excluding frost.—-W. Iggulden. 
CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE. 
Most growers who possess a house affording a little more heat 
than a greenhouse grow a few plants of this old favourite, which 
yields abundance of flowers just at the right time, when flowers are 
scarce. It is very easily grown in fact, for nothing short of the 
worst ill-usage will prevent it growing and flowering. The conse¬ 
quence is that many are contented with very mediocre results, 
but it may be worth reminding some of your readers that some 
methods are better than others. Great numbers use loam wholly 
or partly, and nearly all use peat. Having tried both systems, 
we now use only good sphagnum and charcoal. When the pots 
are full of roots we once a week immerse the pots in very weak 
liquid manure, generally sewage, but very weak guano is quite as 
good. Great luxuriance of growth and floriferousness are the 
results of this treatment. It is, we find, advisable not to disturb 
the roots too often — once in two years is quite often enough. 
Tney thrive all the better for being root-bound, if treated in the 
way indicated.— Edina. 
BOILERS v. WATER. 
As caustic soda in the water used for hot-water pipes will not 
have a good effect on the valves, 1 would advise a simpler and 
cheaper remedy for the incrustation, and that is crude petroleum, 
or the commonest quality of paraffin that can be obtained. A 
quart of this in a steam boiler here containing about 250 gallons 
of water is found effectual in loosening old scale formed before 
its use, and in preventing such formation since then; so that, I 
think, one gallon in each of the 8-feet Cornish boilers when next 
emptied before passing in the fresh water so as to let it pass over 
the plates as the water rises, will be of great advantage and can 
do no injury to pipes, joints, or valves. This remedy will do for 
any water, whereas soda alone, or oak sawdust, starch (in the 
form of Potatoes, &c.), and other remedies are only suitable for 
certain different classes of water which cause furring when heated 
to boiling point. 
I may add that I have just examined five boilers taken out in 
the same district of Surrey, and find that three of them which 
have been in fifteen to twenty years are not furred at all, while 
two others fed with the same kind of water that have been in use 
two years and a half and five years only are furred a little, the 
fact being that the two last have had the hardest work to do, and 
the water has been kept nearly if not quite boiling, while the 
others had very little to do—only one house each in fact. The 
three old boilers were conical, the two newer ones saddles ; but 
the form alone will not account for the difference, though there 
was, no doubt, a less continuous circulation in the saddles than 
in the old conicals owing to the arrangement of outlets.—B. W. W. 
I AH sure your readers must be much indebted to Mr. Shearer 
for his lucid explanation of boiler-incrustation on page 395, and 
having got through the long and hard names which must have 
nearly taken their breath away, and arriving at the soothing and 
softening powers of the “ ordinary washing soda,” felt that they 
would have been under a deeper debt of gratitude if he bad in¬ 
formed them when, where, how often, and the kind of boiler he 
had periodically operated upon, and with the result. Perhaps he 
will kindly do so. 
We had better not just now say much about Mr. Ollerhead’s 
boiler with the patch upon its side. Let the invalid work through 
the winter and then—but we must not anticipate, but be— 
Practical, not Theoretical. 
SOWING PEAS IN AUTUMN. 
It is an old-fashioned plan to sow Peas in aututrm, and in many 
cases it has advantages, while in others it is a loss of seed and 
time ; but this is generally more the fault of the operators than 
the system. It is seldom that autumn Peas are sown too early, 
but they are often sown too late, and this is the mistake which 
leads to the failures which often occur. We never sow Peas in 
autumn before the beginning of November or after the 10th or 
12th of that month. In the north we have seen them sown from 
the middle to the end of October, but we have also seen many 
sown there early in November, and this time is very suitable in 
most parts. 
It is important that the Peas germinate freely and be through 
the soil before midwinter. If there is a fortnight of good weather 
after sowing, it is surprising how quickly they will appear through 
the soil and assume a healthy green colour. After this they are 
safe for the winter, as a good covering of snow or many degrees 
of frost will not injure them then. On the other hand, if the soil 
is constantly cold and wet after sowing, growth is retarded and 
many of them perish. To insure a free healthy growth at first is 
the one object to keep in view, and those who wish to succeed 
with them should do all they can to secure this. 
A good position should be selected for the seed. None is better 
than a south border with a sharp incline. There they have the 
benefit of the best weather, and damp does not injure them so 
much as in more unfavourable positions. Sowing along the 
base of walls might give them more shelter ; but it is not only 
shelter they want, as too much of this at first generally spoils 
