November 10, 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 435 
“ The supply of waste water to the boiler and pipes is often placed 
anywhere that looks most convenient; but the proper place is to 
attach the supply-cistern to the return-pipe somewhere near the 
boiler. Fixed to the flow, the water will be frequently plunged out 
by the upward tendency of the hottest water. It is also very un¬ 
desirable to leave the supply-cistern to be kept full either by pouring 
in water from a pot or by turning a tap, which is often neglected. 
There should always be a cistern supplied by the action of a ball- 
cock, and then the anxiety connected with the neglect of supply does 
not exist.” 
WORK Whe WEEK. 
KITCHEN HARDEN. 
A first sowing of Peas can be made on a south border, and to 
prevent the ravages of mice damp the seed and coat it with red lead 
before sowing, or a sprinkling of paraffin is even more effectual. 
The seeds should be sown more thickly at this season than in the 
spring, covering them lightly with soil and afterwards with sifted 
ashes an inch thick. William I. and First and Best are suitable 
varieties. Broad Beans may also be sown on a sheltered border and 
treated similarly to the Peas. Early Mazagan is the hardier, but 
in most winters Early Longpod survives, and the pods are much 
larger. Globe Artichokes, if cleaned and exposed as before advised, 
will be somewhat hardened, and should be protected before severe 
frost occurs. The soil around the crowns must be removed to the 
depth of 4 inches, giving a good dusting of quicklime, and surround¬ 
ing the crowns with ashes in lieu of the soil removed. The spaces 
between the plants and rows may be covered with litter 6 inches 
deep. Cut and remove decayed Asparagus stems, and apply a 
dressing of manure to the beds, avoiding, however, raising them too 
high. Clear away the decayed leaves from Rhubarb, remove the 
loose soil from around the crowns, replacing with some well-decom¬ 
posed manure, covering the crowns and manure with soil from be¬ 
tween the rows, and in the spaces between the plants give a good 
dressing of manure. 
Seakale to be forced on the ground should have the decayed leaves 
removed, be given a light sprinkling of salt or quicklime as a de¬ 
terrent of slugs, and some ashes placed around and over the crowns. 
Continue in favourable weather to earth-up Celery, protecting in 
severe weather that fit for use. Broccoli which has become leggy 
should be heeled or laid in, so that the stems of the plants will be 
well covered with soil. Plants grown on poor or firm soil have 
made short stems and sturdy growth, and will not need this treat¬ 
ment. Look out for slugs in recent plantations of Cabbage and 
Lettuce, dusting them with lime or soot. Applying manure and 
digging or trenching vacant ground should be proceeded with when 
the weather is favourable, as the beneficial results accruing from 
fully exposing the soil to the operation of the weather cannot be 
over-estimated, especially where the soil is of a stiff adhesive nature. 
Throw up such soils in the roughest manner possible and in ridges 
in order that pulverisation may be thorough ; and in light soils where 
this will not be necessary the exposure of the soil will be beneficial. 
Remove all decayed leaves from Brussels Sprouts and winter vege¬ 
tables generally, as such only harbour vermin. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Where it is intended to have fruit of 
these ripe early in May with certainty, the house containing the trees 
for that purpose should now be closed, but no fire heat except to exclude 
frost need be employed until next month, and the house should be 
freely ventilated at and above 50°. A thorough soaking of water 
at a temperature of 70° to 75° must be given the inside border, and 
the trees damped in the early part of fine days and early on fine 
afternoons ; but when the weather is dull there will be sufficient 
moisture without resorting to syringing, and it is important that 
the buds and wood become dry before night. The outside border 
should be covered with a good layer of leaves, litter, or dry fern, but 
not so thick as to cause fermentation, and if there be shutters or 
tarpaulin to throw off heavy rains or snow it will be an advantage. 
Oak or Beech leaves with a third or fourth of stable litter being at 
command may be placed in a heap and turned over once or twice, 
for making up a bed inside the house the beginning of next month. 
As the trees in the succession houses become divested of their 
leaves the lights may be removed, as no harm will result when the 
wood is thoroughly ripened. Where the lights are not removeable the 
cleansing of the house and trees may be proceeded with, unloosening 
the branches from the trellis, and securing them to it again after the 
house has been cleansed and the trees pruned and dressed with an 
insecticide. The pruning must be confined to removing such shoots 
as escaped notice at the pruning or thinning after the fruit was 
gathered. A space of 12 to 15 inches or more should be allowed be¬ 
tween the young wood. Remove any loose surface soil, and supply 
strong turfy loam with a little bonemeal and wood ashes intermixed, 
making it firm, and giving a good watering. Have the house as cool 
as possible. Late trees of which the wood does not ripen well should 
have the roots wholly or partially lifted, commencing to remove the 
soil at the point most distant from the trees, and preserving the 
roots as intact as possible, especially the fibres near the stems, and 
after rectifying the drainage place the roots in fresh compost. If 
only partial lifting is resorted to, the roots should be raised, bring¬ 
ing them near the surface and not covering them deeper than from 
4 to 6 inches. Give a good watering, keeping the house rather close 
for a few days, and, ventilation being then ample, the foliage will 
ripen freely. 
Figs .—The first batch of Figs for early forcing in pots should now 
be dressed with an insecticide to destroy the pests which infest the 
trees in a more advanced stage. In employing the insecticide care 
must betaken not to rub off the young fruit. Yery little pruning 
will be necessary if the plants have been regularly pinched-in during 
growth, but if the shoots are too crowded they may be thinned, and 
any elongated shoots cut back. A bed of leaves is a great aid to 
successful early forcing, and to secure them in a fit state for the 
purpose they should now be thrown into a heap with a fourth of 
stable litter, turning them over when warm and damping if necessary. 
Equally important for the trees is a free exposure to light. The pots 
may be placed on pillars of open brickwork to prevent their settling 
with the fermenting materials, and to keep the growths near the 
glass. The house can now be prepared, and the pots placed in 
position by the end of the month, the fermenting materials being 
then placed round the pots, but not to raise the temperature above 
70°. Pruning planted-out trees should be proceeded with, but in the 
case of trees which have the roots restricted to small borders very 
little pruning will be needed, providing attention was given during 
the season of growth to thinning and stopping the shoots. Trees not 
having the roots so restricted, and the object being to secure a supply 
of young growths over the whole surface of a large trellis, will require 
pruning somewhat hard at the upper part. Shoots which have 
attained the limit of the trellis should be shortened back to the 
part at which the succeeding shoots start. All elongated spurs must 
be removed, reserving some of those which are short-jointed and 
fruitful. 
Cucumbers .—The temperature outside and the diminution of the 
duration of light will necessitate a slight decrease of temperature, 
which may be kept at 65° at night, falling to 60° on cold mornings, 
but 2° or 3° warmer when the weather is mild, 70° being the minimum 
by day. Ventilate when the air is mild. Avoid sudden fluctuations 
of temperature, paying close and careful attention to stopping, thin¬ 
ning, and regulating the growths. Be careful to apply water to the 
roots of about the same temperature as the house. The plants for 
winter-fruiting should be allowed to extend up the trellis before 
stopping, afterwards training the shoots to the right and left of the 
main stem. Continue to add a little fresh soil as fast as the roots 
cover the surface of the bed, removing all tendrils and male blossoms 
as they appear. Fumigate moderately upon the first appearance of 
aphides, and promptly apply flowers of sulphur for destroying mildew, 
quicklime being the best antidote for canker. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove .—Plants in a state of rest should not be subjected to a low 
temperature, for though many plants will bear it wdthout showing 
