November io, 1881. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
437 
have dwindled remarkably since 15th August, when breeding 
ceased here. The season here has been very bad, many cottagers 
getting no profit at all this year, except in favoured places, where 
skeps sometimes reached 50 lbs. gross. My bees were working at 
the Ivy during the fine mild weather last week as if it were May. 
I fear this will make them dwindle still more.— Subscribe!?. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (Anxious). —The best work on the planting and management of 
forest trees with which we are acquainted is Brown’s “ Forester,” published by 
Messrs. Blackwood & Sons Edinburgh and London. (A Learner). —You will find 
the “ Orchid Growers’ Manual ” a very' reliable work. It is published by Mr. 
B. S. "Williams, the Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Holloway, price 7s. Gd.; 
post free, 8s. 
Fruits for North Wall ( F .).—You neither name the district in which 
you reside nor the height of the wall. Besides Gooseberries and Ourrants 
Morello Cherries thrive well on a north aspect. In many places Plums also 
succeed well, Victoria being very fruitful, and in some localities early Pears 
produce good crops in such positions as those to which you allude, but we have 
no means of judging whether they would be likely to succeed in your garden. 
Vines in Pots (Idem). —The Vines of which you send us a sample are of 
no use for fruiting in pots. You had better cut them down as you propose, and 
also raise others from eyes. No one can say which would be the better, as so 
much depends on the treatment they receive. Vines for fruiting in pots cannot 
be successfully grown in a shaded position. 
“The Herefordshire Pomona” (J. L. C.). —Many excellent coloured 
plates of Apples appear in this fine work, which is published by David Bogue, 
3, St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. 
Abutilons (F. IF.).— If you have convenience for wintering the seedlings 
we should not cut them down, and in all probability they will flower early in 
the spring, and afford you an opportunity of testing their merits. If you cut 
them down you will have to wait much longer before you can determine the 
value of the varieties. 
Washing Minton’s Tiles (Flora). —"We cannot suggest anything better 
for drying the moisture from the floor of your conservatory than a good woollen 
mop ; the work would be done much more economically than with a sponge, and 
we think quite as effectively. 
Hyacinths in Water (T/co Inquirers). —You will find reliable instruc¬ 
tions on this method of growing Hyacinths on page 248 of No. 64, the issue of 
September 15th of the present volume. If the number has been mislaid others 
can be had from the publisher post free for 3Jd. each. 
Eoses in Peris (K. A .).—You had better let the plants have all the air 
possible, but it would be advisable to shelter them from heavy rains to prevent 
the soil heing saturated, as this would prove very injurious to newly potted 
plants. We should also place on the lights on the occurrence of frost. You 
may prune them any time after the leaves have fallen. When you cover them 
in wet mild weather prop up the lights as fully as possible. 
Vines not Bearing (A Constant Reader). —There are no signs of the 
phylloxera on the roots you have sent, but they are very fragmentary. In all 
probability unsuitable soil is the cause of the injury. You had better remove 
the whole, or the greater part of it, providing good drainage, raising such roots 
as need it. and placing them in fresh compost. All the unhealthy portions 
should be cut off. and if you place a good proportion of wood ashes in the soil in 
contact with the roots the production of fresh fibres will be accelerated. Had 
you sent a portion of wood as well as roots we should have been better a' le to 
judge of the condition of the Vines and the probability of their restoration. 
The roots should be covered 4 or 5 inches deep with soil, and the border further 
mulched with manure. The work should be done at once. 
Rain Gauge and Rainfall (A. T..Livevpn l). —There are many different 
rain gauges, and we have not had experience with one of the kind you mention, 
nor are we able to furnish you with the rainfall of your district during the time 
you name. If you send astamped directed envelope to G. J. Symons, Esq., F.R.S., 
Camden Square, London, he would probably oblige you with the information 
you need. 
Exhibiting Grapes (J. A.). —If th° schedule expresses that “distinct 
species ” must be staged, and there is no qualifying clause in favour of black 
and white Grapes being allowed, then no one can stage more than one dish of 
Grapes in the collection without being disqualified. If the conditions express 
distinct dishes or distinct varieties, theu black and white Grapes would be 
admissible, as they usually are in collections of fruit. You had better ascertain 
the intentions of the committee : framers of schedules often employ terms of 
which they do not appreciate their true significance. 
Destroying Mildew on Chrysanthemums (S. II.). —A simple 
remedy that has frequently been recommended in these columns is to dust the 
affected parts with sulphur immediately the mildew appears. Some cultivators 
syringe the plants with a solution of softsoap or Gishurst compound at a 
strength of 2oza. to a gallon of water, and apply the sulphur to the foliage when 
it is wet; it may remain on for a day or two, or until the mildew is destroyed. 
Remedies of all kinds are often, however, rendered ineffective through their 
application having been too long deferred. 
Grapes Decayed (J. Turner ).—It is impossible for anyone to tell why 
the Grapes have decayed without being acquainted with the condition of the 
Vines and border, the weight of the crop, and the treatment that has been 
given. We can only reply to you as we replied to a correspondent last week. 
If you will state how the border was made and drained, with the nature of the 
compost, and also send fair examples of wood and foliage, we will give the sub¬ 
ject our best attention. 
Repotting Dendrobium nobile (.4 Subscriber).— The best time for 
repotting these Orchids is after flowering, as growth then commences. Those 
that you wish to hasten into flower may be now placed in a warmer house, 
retaining the others in their cool quarters until they are wanted. One cause 
of the growth starting prematurely is keeping the compost too wet, and this 
should be carefully avoided. D. chrysanthum may be grown either in a pot 
or basket, but the latter is preferred by many growers. 
Various (J. P .).—We do not know any work that would precisely answer 
your requirements. Perhaps the following hints will be of service to you. The 
Brunsvigia and Hmmanthuses may be grown in a greenhouse or similarly cool 
structure, and require a compost of light turfy loam and sand, the pots being 
well drained. The Sauromatum succeeds best in a warmer structure than the 
above, and needs a compost of loam and sand. The Orchids and Ophrys may be 
either grown in a cool house or frame, and must be provided with well-drained 
pots and a compost of light loam and peat in equal parts, with a good proportion 
of sand. 
Importing Wild Plants (IF. E. B .).—Considerable difficulty is experi¬ 
enced in importing wild plants in a live state, and few. except bulbs or those 
with creeping roots, thrive satisfactorily for any length of timp. This especially 
applies to alpines. They should, when the experiment is tried, be carefully 
lifted, injuring the roots as little as possible, surround these with damp moss, 
and pack closely in tin boxes. Where seeds can be obtained it is generally the 
best mode of introducing such plants. The lists to which yon refer are fre¬ 
quently published in the leading daily papers ; but we do not consider such lists 
very reliable, as the prices are always fluctuating according to the daily supply 
of produce. 
Peeling VineB (Gloucestersh ! re Subscriber ).—We do not approve of peeling 
and scraping Vine rods, and can only conceive the practice defensible if Ihe 
Vines were infested with insects, and even then we should try and destroy them 
before having recourse to a practice which as sometimes carried out is injurious. 
If you dissolve about 2 ozs of Gishurst compound or softsoap in a gallon of 
w T ater, and thoroughly wash the rods with the solution when it is as hot as the 
hand can be borne in it for a moment or two, not many insects will escape if 
the work is well done with aid of an old spoke brush. It is as necessary to 
cleanse the house as to wash the Vines where insects abound. 
Trees not Fruitful (Idem).— The roots of the Elm trees no doubt pene¬ 
trate the Peach border, and more or less impoverish it, and cropping a Peach 
border close to the trees is not good practice ; still, with care early crops may be 
grown on such a border, as may be seen in hundreds of gardens, but the work 
needs to be carried out with judgment and care. If fruit trees grow luxuriantly 
root-pruning is advantageous, not otherwise. Drainage is only necessary where 
the subsoil is wet. The condition of your Pears either indicates that the varie¬ 
ties are not good or the trees need more support, such as removing a little c f 
the surface soil from the root j , and giving a dressing of manure. By the term 
“east wall ” we presume yon mean the east aspect of a wall. Plums and Pears 
would grow there and bear fruit, but with greater certainty if the blossoms were 
protecced from frost in spring. We cannot usefully name any varieties, as you 
do not state how many trees you require, nor mention the length of the wall. 
Sowing Fern Spores (J. C .).-—The spores of some species of Ferns 
retain their vitality for a considerable period, and instances have been recorded 
of spores germinating that have been taken from dried specimens preserved for 
years in an herbarium. As a rule, however, those which germinate quickly, such 
as the Gymnogrammas, also retain their vitality for a comparatively short 
period, so that it is safer to sow the spores as soon as they are ready than to 
wait to a more favourable season. Prepare shallow pots or pans, three parts 
filling them with clean rough potsherds, over these place some finer portions, 
and fill up with light soil and sand. The soil should be baked or exposed to 
the action of fire sufficiently to destroy the spores of any coarse-growing Ferns, 
the germs of fungi, or any other of the lower order of vegetation, the rapid 
increase of which if allowed to remain would speedily destroy any of the more 
delicate Ferns in a young state. Thoroughly moisten the soil, and stand the 
pot or pan in a saucer that should be kept filled with water, which, rising by 
capillary attraction, will obviate the necessity' of frequently applying water to 
the soil after the spores are sown. When it is observed that the clusters of 
spore cases on the fronds are approaching maturity the fronds may be removed 
carefully and laid upon a sheet of paper in a dry position, where the spore cases 
will burst and liberate the extremely minute spores, which can then be scattered 
on the surface of the prepared soil. Some prefer placing the fertile portions of 
the fronds upon the soil at once ; but in either case care must be exercised to cut 
the fronds before the spore cases are fully mature, or you may lose the spores, 
and after carefully' sowing the empty' cases and waiting for a month or two find 
that all your labour has been in vain. Cover the pots or pans with a piece of 
glass to prevent evaporation, and place them in a shaded close lo use or pit 
where an intermediate temperature is maintained, and if not allowed to fall 
below 50° there are few of the free-growing Ferns from either tropical or 
temperate regions that will not germinate satisfactorily'. 
Names of Fruits.—We have many times notified tliatonly six varieties of 
fruits can be named at once ; still large packages reach us. the contents of which 
cannot be examined. Some fruits are not named because the sender’s name 
does not accompany them, and we cannot always determine to whom the re¬ 
spective parcels belong, even by the aid of letters received by post. Pears, we 
have previously intimated, ought to be ripe or approaching ripeness when sent, 
or a number of them cannot be identified. All packages must be carriage paid ; 
unpaid parcels are sent every week that are not taken in 1 lie fee for naming 
fruit to non-snbscribers is 5it. It is important that these conditions be attended 
to for preventing disappointment. (Worcestershire Vicar). —We are sorry we 
cannot aid you in determining the name of the Pear ; it had not been packed 
firmly, and by shaking to and fro arrived here a shapeless ma=s. (S). —Your 
Pear is Dunmnre. (J. Diqbu). —1, Dumelow’s Seedling; 2 Golden Beinette : 3, 
Cox’s Orange Pippin ; 4, Court Fendu Plat. (A. IF.).—1, Beurrd de Capiaumont; 
