448 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ November 17 . itoi. 
either the high or low temperatures, any further than to say that 
I do not agree with such low temperatures for Grapes during their 
flowering period as some writers advocate. I consider they go 
too far when they recommend a night temperature of 50° for 
Muscats in flower, unless the temperature be proportionally high 
by day. What I should recommend is that the night and day 
temperature be recorded when writing on this subject, as they are 
both equally valuable to the Grape-grower. I think the saving 
in coals is a very small matter to consider, and will neither 
greatly benefit the private grower nor the grower for market. I 
will confine myself to a few remarks on my own experience 
during the past season. 
All Grape-growers are aware that early-started Vines require 
to be brought forward more gradually than those started later in 
the season. High temperatures with early Vines mean small 
wood, poor foliage, and on the whole badly finished Grapes. At 
least I have found it to be the case during my experience amongst 
Vines. If the Vines are in healthy condition at starting they may, 
with judicious management, bear the strain of hard forcing for a 
few years. I only use a thermometer in the early house, as a rule. 
This season I placed one in each of the late houses during the 
flowering period. One of the late houses contains four varieties of 
Grapes —Muscat of Alexandria, West’s St. Peter’s, Black Alicante, 
and Lady Downe’s. This house I tried with a low temperature, 
with the result that I am determined never to try the same again. 
Black Alicante set very well; the other varieties are unsatisfactory, 
especially the Muscats. The temperature of this house was some¬ 
times as low as 50° in the morning, and never higher than 65° by 
day, unless with sun heat, when it was allowed to rise as high as 
80° or 85°. The other house contains two varieties—Lady Downe’s 
and Black Alicante. This was treated in the usual way. At the time 
the Vines were flowering the night temperature was never lower 
than 60°, rising by day according to the weather, and a better 
house of Grapes I never desire to have. The bunches are good in 
shape and size, large in berry, well finished, and as black as Sloes. 
When 1 took charge here a little over four years ago, those 
Vines were condemned to be taken out. As they were compara¬ 
tively young Vines I advised my employer to retain them ; we did 
so, and the result is far beyond my expectation. Both houses 
were started at the same time, the 1st of February. In that where 
the low temperature was maintained the Grapes are not all fully 
ripe yet, and judging by appearances the Muscats never will be. 
In the other house they were all ripe by the middle of August, 
and I am sure will keep longer in good condition than those 
ripened later. I have found that Grapes well ripened by the end 
of August will keep for a longer period in good condition in the 
Grape room than those ripened during September and October. 
I cut all our Grapes on the 21st of December last year, and I 
sent them in regularly in good condition every day until the 26th 
of May in the present year. I kept two bunches of Lady Downe’s 
in fair condition till the first week of July. They were sent in with 
those cut first from the early house, the old a little shrivelled, but 
in flavour they were pronounced to be excellent.—J. McKelvie, 
Leadenham, 
DAHLTAS IN POTS. 
However beautiful Dahlias are when grown in the borders, 
they bear no comparison with those flowers produced by plants in 
pots under glass. Unfortunately the Dahlia season outside is often 
cut short by early frosts. But when plants are in pots their period 
of blooming can be greatly extended. They are invaluable just 
before Chrysanthemums or Camellias are plentiful. Even if 
blooms of the plants mentioned exist in quantity, Dahlias are 
still worthy of a place, as they are distinct and very showy, and 
some of the single scarlets possess a brilliancy not to be found in 
Chrysanthemums. I think some varieties of Dahlias will soon 
rank amongst our best flowers for conservatory decoration at this 
season of the year. The singles are most suitable for cutting, and 
when arranged with other flowers are light and elegant. Those 
that have not grown them should give a few plants a trial another 
year, and I feel confident they will not be disappointed with the 
results. From my experience of them in pots they are more easily 
grown than Chrysanthemums, and not half so liable to lose their 
foliage. 
When the necessary stock for outdoors has been rooted, a batch 
of cuttings can be taken for growing in pots. They may be 
established in 60’s and hardened off by the time it is safe to plant 
outside. The plants to be grown in pots can be transferred from 
the small size to those 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and secured to 
a strong stake. They can be grown outside, and need but little 
attention beyond abundance of water, and liquid manure when 
the pots are full of roots. The shoots will need pinching from 
time to time to remove the flowers, discontinuing the practice 
according to the time the plants are wanted to bloom. The pots 
mentioned will be large enough for good specimens. They can 
remain outside until the approach of frost, when they must be 
housed at once. 
I have now some plants in full flower and others later of a 
variety called White Aster. This is a gem for pots, the flowers 
being pure white and very freely produced. The blooms, which 
are beautifully fimbriated, are a purer white when opened under 
glass than when produced outside. For church decoration the 
blooms of this variety are unsurpassed. D. Juarezii is a curiosity 
amongst Dahlias with its double Cactus-shaped flowers, which are 
of a rich crimson colour and quite distinct from any other double 
variety. This is a strong and bushy grower and well suited for 
pots. This variety is largely grown in Mrs. Macrae’s garden by 
my friend Mr. Woodfield, and is truly grand indoors. The single 
variety Paragon is very fine indoors ; the beautiful colours of the 
flower come out so bright, which are rich dark velvety maroon 
with a shade of purple round the edge of the petal, the centre 
being yellow. D. Cervantesii, orange scarlet; D. lutea, yellow 
with dark centre ; D. coccinea, rich scarlet, a showy variety and 
very striking ; D. glabrata, much smaller in the flower than the 
above, and not so showy, and yet worth a place for the lilac colour 
of its flowers ; D. alba, as its name implies, has white flowers, 
and is most useful for cutting. The varieties mentioned are all 
good for growing in pots for indoor decoration. 
There can be no doubt that the single forms are by far the most 
beautiful and useful for cutting, White Aster perhaps excepted for 
some purposes. The single forms can be readily raised from 
seed, and I have seen, amongst a number of seedlings grown in 
the garden above referred to, some beautiful varieties. One was 
especially good and distinct, being striped like a Carnation.— 
W. B. 
FRUIT TREES IN COTTAGE GARDENS. 
Judging from the majority of cottage gardens throughout the 
country, 1 think it may safely be asserted that fruit-tree culture 
is neglected as a rule. In many a large old Apple or Pear tree 
may be seen, but a healthy plantation of young trees can hardly 
be found. One or two new trees may be bought-in to take the 
place of an old one that may be dying, but planting or cultivating 
with a view to profit is seldom thought about. According to what 
I have been told and have seen, nothing is more profitable in any 
coPage garden than a number of useful fruit trees ; and if every 
cottager planted a few good varieties of Apples, Pears, and Plums, 
but especially Apples, in their gardens, beauty, interest, and profit 
would be added to their homes. 
The best of fruit trees can now be bought very cheaply, and 
when once bought and planted little further outlay is necessary ; 
and with some kinds, such as Lord Suffield, King of the Pippins, 
Keswick Codlin, and Hawthornden Apples, and the Victoria Plum, 
crops can almost be depended on annually. In my neighbour¬ 
hood fruit trees in cottage gardens are not plentiful, but those 
who have them often pay their house rent or more with what is 
derived from the fruit they sell. This must be regarded as a 
clear gain, as no annual outlay is needed, and the trees can gene¬ 
rally be grown along the sides of paths and in corners without 
interfering in any way with the ordinary crops of vegetables. 
We feel sure if a number of suitable fruit trees were planted in 
every cottage garden throughout the country they would prove 
most valuable to the owner. 
From the excellent fruit notes which have lately been published 
in these pages information respecting fruit trees of the most trust¬ 
worthy description may be learned from all parts of the country ; 
and I would advise all cottagers and amateurs thinking of plantiug 
fruit trees to draw their information respecting varieties from 
this source according to their locality. 
Local nurserymen, too, can always give good advice on this sub¬ 
ject, as it is seldom they grow any varieties but those which they 
have proved to be most suitable to the district. In all cases we 
recommend that only good healthy young trees be planted. Ex¬ 
cellent specimens of the kind we mean may be had from 2s. to 3s. 
each. Now is the time to plant, and cottagers should take the 
hint. 
In selecting positions for fruit trees care should be exercised 
that they are not placed too close together, or too near the 
paths, or very much in the shade ; nor do they require the very 
best part of the garden, as very often a few barrowloads of good 
loam placed in barren places will prove an excellent site for a 
fruit tree. Nothing surpasses fresh loam for fruit-tree culture, 
and the great majority of cottagers can easily secure this. In 
planting young trees it is important that they be made quite firm, 
and to insure this it is always well to stake every one securely as 
