458 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t November 17 , issi. 
few bulbs can easily obtain fine plants in one or two years. One 
advantage is, that plauts can be brought into flower at any time 
of the year after they have made good growth and been rested. 
The compost I find most suitable is rich fibry loam, charcoal, fine 
bones, and plenty of silver sand to keep the soil open. The size 
of the pots employed should be regulated by the purpose for 
which the plants are required. One strong bulb in a 4-inch pot 
can be used for table decoration, and is very pretty surrounded 
with moss.—J. T. B. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The recent frosts have caused many leaves to fall, therefore a 
commencement can be made in pruning, nailing, or tying the growths 
of fruit trees against walls. Beyond thinning the growths where 
too crowded, and shortening back any closely situated or elongated 
spurs, the knife should be used as little as possible at this season, as 
much reduction of the head will result in a corresponding increase of 
growth. In the case of the Morello Cherry the shoots should be well 
thinned, removing those that have borne fruit and have become bare 
of fruitful wood. Similar remarks apply to Apricots. Cherries other 
than Morellos will need only the removal or shortening-back of the 
old spurs as may be necesary from their extending too far from the 
wall. Apples, Pears, and Plums require similar treatment, seeking 
to maintain an equal distribution of spurs throughout the trees, and 
as close to the wall as circumstances admit. Old trees that have 
become a mass of crowded elongated spurs, and do not bear so freely 
as desirable, may have a portion of the old branches removed, and a 
young shoot taken up from near the base in the place of that removed. 
In thisjway old unfruitful trees may be well furnished with fruitful 
wood in three years. The shoots of young trees, or those in course 
of extension, should be laid-in their full length, provided space 
admits and the shoots are sufficiently numerous, otherwise they may 
be cut back so as to give growths where needed. Pear trees infested 
with scale should be unloosed and dressed efficiently with train or 
other oil, which to be efficacious must be applied with a brush when 
the trees are quite dry. Cherry trees that have been infested with 
aphides should have all shreds or ties removed, and the wall as well 
as the trees washed with diluted tobacco juice and a solution of soft 
soap, 1 lb. to a gallon of water, to be further diluted with three 
gallons of water and one gallon of tobacco juice. Plum trees that 
have been infested with blue aphides may be treated similarly to the 
Cherry trees. 
Any trees, whether against trees or in the open as pyramid, bush, 
or espalier Apple, Pear, or Plum trees that require lifting or root- 
pruning to check over-luxuriance and induce a fruitful habit, may 
now be taken in hand without fear ofthe wood shrivelling, as would be 
the case when the trees are very vigorous, and before the leaves had 
fallen. The distance from the stem at which the trench should be 
made will depend on the size of the trees and their vigour, for when 
very vigorous they will have stronger and fewer ramifications with 
fewer fibres near the base of the trees. Ordinarily 2 to 3 feet will be 
a safe distance for bush, pyramid, or espalier fruit trees, making a 
trench about 2 feet deep, and from this work under toward the stem 
so as to cut through any roots having a downward tendency. The 
loose soil must be removed with a fork over the roots, and a little at 
the outside of the ball, but no attempt should be made to remove the 
soil from the roots near the stem, and after paring smooth any jagged 
roots fill up the trench with fresh loam, laying in the roots carefully 
as the work proceeds, and ram the soil as firmly as possible. If the 
trees are found to be too deeply planted lift them carefully, apply 
some fresh soil well rammed down so that their roots at the stem will 
be about 6 inches above the surrounding level. This will bring the 
roots near the surface. The advantage of having the trees somewhat 
raised above the surrounding ground is considerable in heavy or 
damp ground, but in shallow and dry soils level but not deep planting 
is advisable. The surface roots should not be covered more than 
3 inches, and a good mulching of partially decayed manure given from 
the stem outward fully a foot further than the roots extend. Peach 
and Nectarine trees against walls not usually ripening the wood 
w r ell, do ifiuch better if lifted as soon as the wood has become firm 
and the leaves give indications of maturity. Lift them entirely, re¬ 
moving the soil from the roots carefully, replanting them in fresh 
compost near the surface, and making the whole firm. This induces 
shorter-jointed wood, which seldom fails to mature and bear fruit 
satisfactorily. 
Leaves should be removed from borders, and the surface soil may 
be pointed over lightly with a fork. The loose soil so formed, as 
well as the remains of former mulchings, can be scraped off, and a 
surface dressing of fresh loam and well-decayed manure in equal pro¬ 
portions applied, adding about a fortieth part of bone meal and a 
similar proportion of wood ashes or charred refuse, which, from 
supplying potash, is a good dressing for fruit borders. A little soil 
from the open spaces may be spread over the top-dressing, the other 
part of the border being pointed over. Trench ground for fresh 
plantations of fruit trees, and prepare stations for planting in orchards 
or elsewhere, pushing forward operations of this character whilst the 
weather remains favourable. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Vines in pots started as advised in former calendars are 
now growing, and should have the temperature increased to 60° at 
night and 10° to 15° rise by day, and before the shoots become too 
long the rods should be secured in position. Disbud when the best 
breaks can be distinguished, and as the moisture from the fermenting 
materials will be considerable the necessity for syringing will be 
lessened. Keep the fermenting material replenished, bringing it up 
about the pots so as to secure to the roots a temperature of 70° to 75°. 
Water as required with tepid liquid manure, and for the present 
ventilate moderately, and when necessary afford it at the top of the 
house only. Frequently turn over the litter in the early house, re¬ 
plenishing as the heat declines with fresh litter direct from the 
stables. Hamburghs required to be kept as long as possible must 
have the atmosphere dry and the house ventilated very carefully in 
dull weather. In fine weather both front and top ventilation may be 
given, providing fire heat in the early part of the day, turning it off 
at noon, and closing when the pipes become cool, a temperature of 
40° to 45° at night being sufficient. Muscats should have a tempera¬ 
ture of 50° at night, admitting air freely when the weather is favour¬ 
able, the atmosphere for these and late Grapes being kept dry. As 
the leaves fall Hamburghs and other thin-skinned Grapes can be 
pruned, thoroughly cleansing the house and washing and dressing 
the Vine rods, and surface-dressing the borders as advised in former 
calendars. 
Pines .— Strict attention must be given ventilating pits or small 
houses containing young stock, for unless this is properly done the 
plants will soon become -weakly. A night temperature of 60° to 65° 
by day from fire heat will be sufficient to keep the plants slowly 
growing through the winter, commencing to ventilate at 65°, and a 
free circulation of air should be permitted through the house or pit 
when external influences raise the temperature to 75°. Keep the 
plants near the glass and do not crowd them, the bottom heat being 
80°. Suckers may be kept on the stools until starting time in March, 
in a moist pit with a bed having a slight bottom heat, and a night 
temperature of 55°, keeping them moderately dry at the roots. This 
plan is preferable to potting at this season. 
Cucumbers .—During the ensuing three months ventilation will 
require careful attention; and whilst a little air should be given 
at every favourable opportunity, it should be excluded as far as 
possible when the external air is cold. When the sun is bright 
and likely to raise the temperature above 80° the top heat can 
be turned off, so as to lessen the necessity of giving air in quantity 
to keep the temperature down. Moisture in moderate quantity will 
be needed in the atmosphere in bright sharp weather, but in dull 
foggy weather be very sparing of moisture, ceasing to charge the 
evaporation troughs. 
