November 24, mi.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
483 
flower. Mr. James Hill, gardener to George Hardy, Esq., Timperley, 
staged a fine Odontoglossum unnamed, but supposed to be 0. Chester- 
tonianum. The spike had fifteen flowers upon it,pure white, of good 
size, and blotched with large purple spots, the side petals being pure 
white. The markings are extraordinary and beautiful. Messrs. Cole 
and Son, Withington, showed Ixora Duffi in grand condition ; the 
trusses were large and most brilliant in colour. It will be remem¬ 
bered that Messrs. Yeitch & Sons sent it out about two years ago. 
The foliage was fully 9 inches long and 4 inches in width, and the 
flowers extremely bright. 
Mr. Bruce Findlay is to be congratulated for the success of the 
Show. 
In 
WORK foi\the WEEK.. i 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing Department .—For Asparagus, pits are necessary capable of 
holding sufficient fermenting materials to maintain for a consider¬ 
able time a bottom heat of 70° to 80°, with hot-water pipes sufficient 
to secure a top heat of 55° to G5°. The lights should be move¬ 
able, so that at suitable times an abundant supply of fresh air can be 
afforded, as without this the heads will be poor in flavour. In order 
to obtain a supply of heads at Christmas a bed should now be formed 
of three parts leaves to one of stable litter, well incorporating them, 
and treading the bed down firmly so as to induce a steady prolonged 
heat. Level the surface, and place on some light rich soil 2 or 3 inches 
in depth, and, the heat not exceeding 80°, introduce the roots. Supply 
tepid water at 75° to 80°, and then cover the crowns with 2 or 3 inches 
of finely sifted soil or spent tan. The pit may be kept close until the 
heads are clear of the soil, when air should be given in favourable 
weather. Seakale may be forced in a similar manner, but a more 
moderate temperature is desirable, and means must be employed to 
exclude light. For Seakale and Rhubarb we prefer the Mushroom 
house, in which they force readily, providing the roots are placed up 
to the crowns in light rich moist soil, not affording water until 
growth appears, when tepid water may be given to keep the soil 
moist. Mushroom houses are usually dark, hence means are not 
necessary to be adopted to secure the blanching of the Seakale ; 
but if the forcing be done in a light structure means must be 
employed to exclude it from the plants, and Rhubarb is also much 
improved thereby. 
The mild weather has been very favourable for late Cauliflowers 
and autumn Broccoli, and of this advantage should be taken to lift 
those with close heads and that will admit of some further develop¬ 
ment. Lay them in a pit where they will be safe from frost; pro¬ 
tection being given in severe weather, a supply of heads will be 
secured until a late period, others being lifted and placed in similar 
quarters at a later period. Yeitch’s Autumn Broccoli from coming in 
late is very valuable, having fine compact heads which are much 
hardier than Cauliflower. In fine weather earth up late Celery, and 
hoe between the rows of growing crops, such as Cabbage and winter 
Spinach. Push forward outdoor operations whilst the weather is 
favourable. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—The leaves have nearly all fallen in the 
latest houses, and the trees should at once be unloosed from the 
trellis, thoroughly cleansing the woodwork with soap and water and 
the glass with clear water, limewashing the walls. If the trees have 
been infested with scale they maybe well syringed with water at 1G0°, 
and the trees afterwards dressed with an insecticide, if necessary 
repeating it before the trees are secured to the trellis. Pruning may 
be attended to, but if summer-pruning has been duly performed little 
if any will be required now. The loose inert surface soil should be 
removed, and good strong loam supplied, adding a little bone meal 
and wood ashes, but the latter must not be used more than to the 
extent of a twentieth part. Ventilation must be given to the fullest 
extent, closing the house only in case of frost. Trees that have 
not yet lost their leaves should be wholly or partially lifted, and 
the roots laid in fresh compost nearer the surface. Complete prun¬ 
ing, cleaning, and dressing in succession houses, keeping them as 
cool as practicable, or if the roof lights have been removed they may 
remain off so long as the weather continues mild. The lights must 
be placed on the houses which contain trees intended to afford ripe 
fruit in June, still admitting air fully, and the outside border should 
be protected with leaves and litter. See that the roots in the inside 
border do not lack moisture. Continue the preparation of ferment¬ 
ing material for making a bed in the house, to which fire heat will be 
applied at the beginning of next month. Early in December the 
heat should be turned on in the morning if necessary to raise the 
temperature to 50°; at and above that temperature ventilate freely, 
employing fire heat at night to prevent the temperature falling below 
40° or 30° in the early morning. When the buds are swelling the 
night temperature may be increased 5°. Until the buds show colour 
the trees may on fine days be syringed in the morning and early 
afternoon, avoiding as far as possible a close atmosphere. If there 
be any deficiency of moisture at the roots supply tepid w'ater, or if 
the trees are weakly give liquid manure at a temperature of 70° 
to 75°. 
Cherry House .—Replace the lights at once, but the house must be 
fully ventilated except when severe frosts prevail. Full-grown trees 
attended to in stopping during growth will only require those 
shoots shortened back to about an inch from the base, natural spurs 
being left, also extension growths or those required for filling vacant 
space. Trees in course of formation will need the central shoot or 
shoots cut back to originate a supply for filling the space with re¬ 
gularity. The fan mode of training is unquestionably the best that 
can be adopted, as it affords the means of filling any vacancies that 
occur through the trees gumming. Terminal shoots, unless for the 
purpose above indicated, should not be shortened. Remove all de¬ 
cayed spurs, afterwards thoroughly cleanse the house, and wash the 
trees with an insecticide, and this should be repeated before the buds 
commence swelling if the trees have been infested—as they usually 
are under the best of treatment during growth—with aphides and 
red spider. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Roses should be planted with as little delay as possible, the ground 
having been prepared by trenching and liberal dressing with manure. 
If the soil be light it will be permanently improved by mixing with 
it a good quantity of clay during the trenching, obtaining the clay in 
a dry state, and breaking it into small lumps before mixing with the 
natural soil. Roses are particularly fond of strong soil, especially 
those on the Briar, and where the soil is naturally heavy Roses on 
this stock succeed better than any other, having the seedling Briar 
for dwarfs. On light warm soils Roses succeed well on their own 
roots when liberally treated ; and on the Manetti they thrive where 
the soil is porous. Roses should be planted so deep that the junction 
of stock and scion will be buried 3 or 4 inches beneath the soil. Cut¬ 
tings of Manetti may at once be inserted to afford stocks for working 
next season. The wood of most Roses being now thoroughly ripe, 
they may be made into cuttings similar to Manetti, only the buds 
must not be removed. Briars for stocks for standards should be 
planted at once, selecting those with clean grey stems and not very 
spiny, as these usually grow freely and develope fine heads. Give 
plenty of space between the rows to allow free access at budding 
time, and mulch with partially decayed manure. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Forcing House .—Where quantities of flowers and plants for decora¬ 
tion are required a house with pits in which can be formed beds of 
fermenting materials is a great aid at the dull season of the year. 
The house cannot be too light, and the means of ventilation should be 
ample; and if it be so arranged as to accommodate plants of various 
heights it will be the more useful, having shelves for such as require 
to be near the glass to secure dwarf growth. To insure well-developed 
flowers it is desirable that the forcing process be gradual, commencing 
with a moderate temperature, say 50° at night, and increasing to 55° 
in a fortnight, with 60° to 65° by day, and an advance from sun heat 
and liberal ventilation to 70° or 75°. Lilacs can be forced if placed at 
once in a high temperature; and if large bushes of these be now lifted, 
placed in pots or tubs and introduced to heat, and duly supplying 
with water, they will flower finely by Christmas. It is, of course, 
