504 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ December 1, 1881. 
by Messrs. J. W. Moorman, Gibson, B. Dove, Goodyear, Woods, 
Bradford, Bennett, Newell, and Legg. Some of these sent large col¬ 
lections of fruit, which attracted much attention. 
WELLINGBOROUGH.— NOVEMBER 25TII AND 26TII. 
The first Exhibition of Chrysanthemums held by the Welling¬ 
borough Eloral and Horticultural Society was very creditable to 
the projectors, a pretty display being provided in the Corn Ex¬ 
change. The Committee wisely fixed the date of their Show two 
days after that at Northampton, and in consequence thus permitted 
many to exhibit at both, which was a manifest advantage to the 
Wellingborough Exhibition. As the first effort it was very satis¬ 
factory, and no doubt will be followed by better results in the future 
if the financial success is sufficiently promising to encourage another 
attempt. The arrangements were good, and the Society’s affairs 
appear to be well managed by the Honorary Secretaries, Messrs. 
J. Pendred, G. F. Bearn, and J. Dulley, aided by a good Committee. 
The specimen Chrysanthemum plants were mostly neat and well- 
flowered, but as the majority were similar to those at Northampton 
it is not necessary to enumerate them. The principal prizewinners 
were Mr. Abrahams, gardener to A. Howe, Esq.,; Mr. Hilburn, 
gardener to C. J. R. Woolston. Esq.,; and Mr. Clayson, gardener 
to W. Woolston, Esq., who showed well in the first five open classes. 
A pyramidal specimen of Elaine from Mr. Clayson, for which an 
extra prize was awarded, was very well flowered, though the blooms 
were rather small. Several of Messrs. Hilburn’s and Abrahams’ 
plants were also fresh and clean. In the amateurs’ classes Mr. 
Henman of Northampton was a successful exhibitor, Messrs. Clayson 
and Manning also contributing specimens in most of the classes. 
Cut blooms were not very largely represented, but they were 
generally neat and of good form. Mr. Hilburn’s winning stand of 
twenty-four incurved varieties included fine blooms of John Salter, 
Lady Hardinge, Mr. Jay, and Mrs. Heale, Mr. Abrahams following 
with slightly smaller samples. In the class for twelve the positions 
of these exhibitors were reversed, but their stands were nearly equal 
in merit. Messrs. Henman, Clayson, and Manning were the suc¬ 
cessful amateurs, all showing creditably. 
Miscellaneous plants formed an important feature in the Show, 
some really handsome specimens being staged in the leading collec¬ 
tions. For “ten plants of any kind” Mr. Hilburn gained the pre¬ 
mier award with well-grown specimens of Ixora Williamsi, Eucharis 
grandiflora, Rondeletia speciosa, Latania borbonica, and Encepha- 
lartos villosus amongst several others. Mr. Brockhurst took the 
second position with fine specimens of Croton angustifolius, Cycas 
revolutus, and Alocasia metallica. Both these collections were good 
and close in merit, but the first was clearly entitled to his position. 
Ferns were also admirably shown by Mr. Hilburn, who had fine speci¬ 
mens of Dicksonia antarctica, Davallia Mooreana, and one of the best 
examples of Adiantum gracillimum we have seen ; it was nearly 
4 feet in diameter and in excellent health. Mr. Brockhurst followed 
with smaller specimens but fresh, his Adiantum Sanctse-Catherinai 
being notable. In the corresponding classes for amateurs Messrs. Per- 
cival and Clayson were the chief winners, staging Ferns in parti¬ 
cularly fine condition. Two beautiful collections of Primulas were 
shown by Messrs. Clayson and Brockhurst, who were awarded equal 
first prizes, the plants being very healthy and well flowered ; those 
from the last-named exhibitor were all double varieties, including 
some of the newer forms admirably represented. 
Fruit was not shown in great abundance, but the majority of the 
exhibitors contributed very well grown samples. Mr. D. Percival, 
gardener to W. Blott, Esq., had the best two bunches of Grapes— 
excellent specimens of Black Alicante and Gros Colman finely coloured 
and with large berries. Mr. Clayson followed with Trebbiano and 
Black Alicante, also well coloured and but little inferior to the first- 
named. Mr. Percival had the only collection of six dishes of fruit, 
and gained the first prize with remarkably fine Gros Colman Grapes, 
which formed his best dish. Messrs. Henman, Sanders, Dunkley, and 
Curtis showed good samples of Grapes and Apples and Pears in the 
amateurs’ section. 
Vegetables, both in the amateurs’ and cottagers’ classes, were con¬ 
fined to Potatoes and Celery, most of the exhibits being of good 
quality. A few bouquets and stands of flowers were also staged, but 
do not demand special mention. 
WOWjohtheWEEK.. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing Department .—Chicory can be readily forced in a Mushroom 
house, or it may be forced in any structure with a temperature of 
55° to 60°, light being excluded so as to insure thorough blanching, 
otherwise the leaves are too bitter to be palatable. If Potatoes are 
required early, sets of some approved early variety should now be 
inserted in leaf soil preparatory to being planted out in pits. The 
sets must be placed in a temperature of 55° to 60°, and when the 
shoots are 2 or 3 inches long the sets will be ready for transferring 
to pots or beds. Where forcing operations are extensively carried on 
it is important to have in readiness a good supply of fermenting 
materials for immediate use; and as it is a mild and durable heat 
that is needed in forcing vegetables, two or three parts leaves to 
one of stable litter will be better than all litter. Now that leaves 
are obtainable a good supply should be stacked for use as required 
during the winter and spring. Keep up a supply of French Beans by 
an occasional sowing according to the demand and the space avail¬ 
able, affording a night temperature of 60°, and 70° to 75° by day. 
Under favourable conditions ventilate frames or pits containing 
Radishes, Cauliflowers, and Lettuces, stirring the soil occasionally 
between the two latter, and remove yellow or decayed leaves. 
HARDY ERDIT GARDEN. 
The pruning of Gooseberry and Currant bushes should be proceeded 
with as opportunity offers, although where bullfinches are numerous 
the pruning may be deferred until spring. In pruning Gooseberries 
it is important that the branches be disposed so as to leave the bushes 
open in the centre, and that they be regularly placed around the stem. 
The side shoots upon the branches should be cut-in to two or three 
buds from the base, and the terminal shoots in a similar manner, pro¬ 
vided the bushes are of full size, but if extending the points of the 
growths need only be removed to preserve the symmetry. Bushes in 
course of formation will only need the side growths cut-in to about 
half an inch from the base after a reservation has been made of shoots 
for furnishing the bushes. Where the bushes are very vigorous a 
moderate thinning the shoots is preferable to spurring them in closely. 
Red and White Currants having the branches radiating from the 
centre equally to leave the centre of the bushes open should have 
the shoots of the last season’s growth spurred close in, as Currants 
usually form natural spurs abundantly, and the removal of the 
spray is essential for the admission of light and air. The extremities 
of trees of full size must also be cut close in, but any bushes in 
course of formation should have the growths, unless very long, left 
entire. Black Currants must not be spurred in, but have the old 
growths well thinned out where young growth admits of its being 
done without endangering next season’s crop. This will keep the 
bushes well furnished with young bearing wood, upon which depends 
the production of a plentiful crop of fine fruit. The current year’s 
fruiting canes of Raspberries have already been removed. The canes 
should be secured to the stakes or trellis with tarred string, the points 
of the shoots above 4 or 5 feet in length being removed. When the 
pruning is completed and the trimmings cleared away a thorough 
dressing of manure should be applied, pointing it in lightly near the 
stem of the bushes or stools, and deeper in the spaces between the 
plants, without disturbing the roots. A loose surface is, however, 
desirable to allow of rain and air having free access, and to admit of 
hoeing for the destruction of weeds. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines .—Vines in pots started early are now in free growth, and 
should have a night temperature of 60® to 65°, and 70° to 75° in the 
daytime, ventilating a little at 70°, and moderate ventilation at 75°, 
allowing an advance to 80° or 85° from sun heat, closing early at 80°. 
Disbudding having been attended to, it will now be necessary to stop 
shoots which, though showing fruit, will not be allowed to carry it 
at the fourth, fifth or sixth joint, it being sound practice to have 
leaf-development somewhat in excess of that actually needed for en¬ 
couraging root-growth to keep up the supply of nutriment to the 
fruit-bearing growth, as Vines with plenty of foliage have a reserve 
to fall back upon if the resources of the Vine should be unduly 
taxed, as often happens from excessive evaporation. The shoots in¬ 
tended to carry fruit must not be stopped until two or three joints 
are made beyond the fruit, then pinch out their points, and rub off 
the laterals below the fruit, but on a level with and above the fruit 
allow them to remain, stopping these to one leaf. Keep up moderate 
moisture in the house, but syringing the foliage should be discon¬ 
tinued after the bunches appear. Turn over the fermenting mate¬ 
rials, keeping the heat steady around the pots at 75°. 
