526 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ December 8, 1881. 
hollow so formed may be filled with decayed refuse or partially 
decayed manure, the material being brought over the crowns, clearing 
it from them in early spring, and by watering with liquid manure or 
guano water (2 ozs. to a gallon of water) after the growth is free the 
produce will be much finer. Fresh plantations of this and Seakale 
should now be provided for by trenching the ground as deeply as the 
good soil admits, loosening that not turned up with a pick, and 
working in as the trenching proceeds a liberal quantity of vegetable 
refuse and manure. The soil for Rhubarb, Seakale, and Asparagus 
can hardly be too rich and friable. Seakale prefers a soil somewhat 
sandy, as also does Asparagus. The preparation of the ground for 
these should be proceeded with as opportunity offers, and if the 
weather be open planting Rhubarb may be continued, selecting 
divisions from the old plants with one or more crowns. Plant them 
level with crown, and firm the soil well about them, covering the 
crowns with vegetable refuse and partially decayed manure. The 
distance between the rows should be G feet, and between the divisions 
4 feet. Johnston’s St. Martin’s is unquestionably the best early 
variety either for outdoor or forcing, and for the latter purpose th e 
plants need only be 4 feet from row to row and 3 feet apart in the 
row. For general and market purposes Victoria is pi-e-eminent, and 
is good for forcing, and for a combination of size with quality Stott’s 
Monarch has no rival. 
Seakale may also be planted now, the healthy portions of the roots 
detached from plants lifted for forcing in lengths of from 4 to G inches 
making capital sets. Plant them 1 foot asunder in rows 18 inches 
apart, making the soil firm about them. One or two-year-old plants 
from seed are also good for forming new plantations, the plants 
having the crown bud removed with a knife before planting or in 
spring, so as to prevent seeding. Asparagus should not be planted 
until late March or early April. Complete the dressing of the per¬ 
manent beds of these with as little delay as possible. 
Jerusalem Artichokes keep best in the ground, also Parsnips and 
Horseradish, but a sufficient quantity of roots of those should be 
lifted and stored in damp sand in the root-house or other place, so 
that the supply be unbroken by severe weather. Similar remarks 
apply to Celery, which should either be lifted and stored in sand safe 
from frost, or be covered with a sufficient depth of litter or bracken. 
Winter Radishes and Rampion are also best from the ground, but 
they must be protected with litter or bracken to allow of their being 
taken up as required ; but a supply stored in damp sand will keep in 
good condition some time, and is preferable to daily disturbing them 
in the open ground in severe weather. 
Soils that have long been under vegetable crops and heavily 
manured will be improved by the addition of fresh loam and a good 
liming, defering the manuring until spring or before putting in the 
crops, or, if this be inconvenient or undesirable, it may be employed 
during summer as a mulch with great benefit. Heavy soils will be 
improved by the employment of charred refuse, burned clay, ashes, 
leaf soil, and liberal manuring, also by a dressing of lime, and should 
for the winter be thrown up as roughly as possible. Light soils may 
have a dressing of clay or marl, and after exposure to frost dug in. 
Deep digging or trenching should be p-actised frequently where the 
depth of soil permits, but much of the bad soil must not be brought 
to the surface. 
Forcing Department .—Where large supplies of French Beans are 
required a suitable structure should be devoted solely to them. Where 
they can be sown or planted out under these conditions they will 
yield more satisfactory results than when grown in pots, which are 
often from necessity placed in structures unfavourable as regards 
position and temperature to their giving satisfactory results. It is 
essential that these have a position near the glass and a temperature 
of from 55° to G5° artificially. Single rows may be had in front of 
Pine beds, forming a border of rich light compost about 1 foot wide 
and 9 or 10 inches deep, which will yield abundantly if properly 
watered and a little guano mixed w’ith the water occasionally. 
Osborn’s Forcing is one of the best, but Canadian Wonder gives finer 
pods, and may be grown where there is plenty of room. Sowings 
should be made at intervals according to the requirements. Advance 
successional crops of Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb according to 
the demand ; and prepare materials for making fresh beds for Aspa¬ 
ragus for succeeding supplies. Make beds of leaves and manure 
mixed, one part stable litter to three or four of leaves, in pits or frames 
for Potatoes, Radishes, and Carrots, placing about 8 inches depth of 
rich fine soil for the Potatoes over the bed, putting out the sets when 
sufficiently sprouted in rows of 18 inches apart, and the sets 15 inches 
asunder, inserting them about 4 inches deep. Myatt’s Prolific and 
Veitch’s Ashleaf are excellent early varieties. 
For Radishes and Carrots 4 to G inches depth of soil is sufficient, 
and when warmed through sow the seeds of these in alternate rows, 
making shallow drills about 4 inches apart, and as soon as the seeds 
germinate air must be admitted freely. Early Scarlet Forcing Turnip 
and Early White Forcing Turnip, with French Breakfast and Wood’s 
Frame, are most suitable, and of Carrots French Forcing and Early 
Nantes. Place more sets of Potatoes in boxes in leaf soil in a house 
where there is a temperature of 55° preparatory to planting-out the 
sets in beds. Supply tepid water to Seakale and Rhubarb in the 
Mushroom house when growth has commenced, also to Chicory, intro¬ 
ducing fresh roots of the latter at intervals proportionate to the 
demand. Introduce roots of Mint in boxes or pots to a house with 
a gentle heat, also roots of Tarragon. Lettuces and Endive in pits 
where heat is applied must have regular attention in ventilation. 
Lettuce for spring use in cold pits or frames should be examined 
occasionally, stirring the soil about the plants and dusting with quick¬ 
lime or dry wood ashes. Similar remarks apply to Cauliflowers under 
liandligkts or in frames, ventilating freely when the weather is 
favourable ; but in severe weather neither Lettuces or Cauliflowers 
will suffer if the coverings are left on for several days. Avoid as 
much as possible keeping the lights over the plants when the sun is 
powerful. 
FIICIT HOUSES. 
reaches and Nectarines .—The earliest house, having been closed and 
prepared for forcing a3 advised in former calendars, may now have 
fire heat applied, but the temperature should not exceed 50° by day 
artificially, nor 40° to 45° at night, until the flower buds are showing 
colour, and when they are expanding the temperature must be raised 
5°, or 45° to 50° at night, and 50° to 55° by day, the lower figures 
being most suitable when the weather is severe. A somewhat dry 
atmosphere is desirable after the anthers appear. Syringing as re¬ 
gards the trees must then cease ; but when the weather is bright damp¬ 
ing available surfaces in the morning and early afternoon will be 
useful in assisting the development of the blossoms, but if fermenting 
materials are employed that will seldom be necessary. 
Figs .—Trees in pots required to give ripe fruit at the end of April 
or early in May must now be started, the pots being placed on pedes¬ 
tals of brickwork in a pit, and the pit filled with fermenting leaves 
and litter brought up about the pots so as to afford a genial tempe¬ 
rature around them of G5° to 75°. Frequent applications of water at 
70° will, if the soil in the pots has been allowed to become dry, be 
necessary to render the soil thoroughly moist. The trees and avail¬ 
able surfaces in the house must be syringed twdee daily when the 
weather is bright; but in dull weather the moisture arising from the 
fermenting materials will suffice. A temperature of 50° at night and 
55° in the daytime artificially is sufficient to commence with, allowing 
an advance to C5° from sun heat, above which ventilate freely. 
Vines .—Disbudding will soon be necessary in the earliest house 
started in November, and should be attended to as soon as the best 
breaks can be distinguished, doing it gradually, and leaving a number 
of growths showing fruit in excess of those that will be required for the 
crop to induce active root-action. No more growths, however, must 
be reserved than can have full space for development. The tempera¬ 
ture can be gradually increased so as to have it 60° to G5° at night 
when the Vines are in leaf, with 5° more by day, and 10° to 15° from 
sun heat. With fermenting materials in the house the need of syring¬ 
ing will be reduced. Lose no opportunity of admitting air, avoiding 
cold draughts or sudden depressions of temperature. 
Strawberries in Pots .—Where it is intended to have fruit ripe by 
March, plants of some approved early variety should at once be intro¬ 
duced, if not already done, to a house with a night temperature of 
50°, and advancing with sun heat to C0° or G5°. A vinery or Peach 
