55G JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c December 22 , issi. 
candlesticks on one occasion were surrounded with moss, on 
this being laid fronds of Maidenhair Fern to form a ground¬ 
work for a ring of Pelargonium Guillon Mangilli for the two 
inner, and yellow Chrysanthemum Peter the Great the two 
outer. The dessert dishes were festooned with leaves of Coleus 
Verscbaffeltii, with a single bloom of Rhododendron in each. 
At the points of each festoon between the dishes were stood 
small glass globes containing a single large bloom, facing out¬ 
wards, of the yellow Allamanda Schottii and a large frond of 
Maidenhair Fern. On another “silver" night the bases of 
two of the candlesticks were surrounded, but at no time covered, 
with moss, Maidenhair Fern, and fair-sized whorls of Poin- 
settias, Rhododendrons being similarly disposed round the 
other two. There were fourteen dishes of dessert, one at each 
end and six on each side, in the centre of these and in a line 
with them standing the two flower vases. In each of the 
spaces between these, or sixteen in all, were placed a small 
circular patch of moss, a frond of Maidenhair Fern, and a 
single bloom of Allamanda alternating with a truss of Rho¬ 
dodendron. These were surrounded with the above-mentioned 
Mahonia leaves, with a spray of Jasminum on each, and an 
irregular line of similar materials connected the whole, an out¬ 
ward curve being given at the base of each dessert dish. This 
proved a very pleasing arrangement by candlelight, and when 
re-arranged the next morning to suit the breakfast and luncheon 
tables was still more effective, the Jasminum and Mahonia 
contrasting more beautifully. 
At Christmas time a somewhat similar arrangement most 
probably will be adopted, the materials in this instance con¬ 
sisting of sprays of variegated Holly supporting sprays of 
berried Cotoneaster Simmondsii or Hawthorn berries for the 
tracery, Primula trusses in variety being disposed in the centre 
of the circles, while the bases of candlesticks will be surrounded 
with branches of Solanums of sorts in full berry. Berries 
seem absolutely necessary for Christmas decoration, and the 
Solanums will then be sacrificed simply because they do not 
find so many admirers later on. 
On one occasion we surrounded the bases of candlesticks 
and dessert dishes with the tips of the stock plants of Iresine 
Herbstii, running through these a line of Mesembryanthemum 
cordifolium variegatum. This was a simple yet pleasing 
arrangement, and might be imitated with the tips of old 
specimens of many beautiful Coleuses, or, where Holly is 
plentiful, with berried sprays, with or without a few light- 
berried or fine-foliaged plants. The above does not exhaust 
our list of devices, but at the same time we should be glad of 
a few hints on the subject from others more experienced in the 
practice.—W. Iggulden. 
PRUNING VINES. 
The performance of this operation will soon be general. Some 
early Vines may have been already pruned, and very late Vines 
will not be touched for a considerable time to come ; but from the 
majority of amateurs’ vineries the fruit has been removed, and 
the wood should be well ripened. For various reasons amateurs 
with vineries generally try to make the acquaintance of the 
nearest professional gardeners, and it is by them that such work 
as pruning is done ; but many others have to do the best they 
cau themselves, and these are always glad of a seasonable word 
on this and other matters. 
The time to prune is as soon after the leaves have fallen as is 
convenient. When the wood is hard and brown and the leaves 
have fallen no injury will occur through usiDg the knife, as all 
danger of bleeding or doing the work prematurely is past. In 
vineries where plants are grown more heat than is requisite for 
the Vines may have had to be maintained at times, and this may 
cause the Vines to remain growing and the leaves to keep green 
longer than they would do in an open house, and in such cases it 
will be well to delay pruning until they have reached the state 
before indicated. 
The most prominent buds are generally some distance from the 
base of the young shoots, and the smaller buds are found near 
the old stem. Some think that the best shoots will be secured 
another year from the largest buds ; this induces them to allow 
the young shoots to remain some inches in length, and this in a 
year or two forms large spur-like growths on the stems of the 
Vines which are neither ornamental nor good for fruit-bearing. 
To avoid this as long as possible every shoot should be cut in to 
two eyes from the'base. Sometimes when the buds are good only 
one may be left, but two are always convenient against accident, 
and the outer one can be removed when it is seen that growth in 
the other is certain. A very sharp knife should be used in cutting 
Vine wood. Sometimes if a young shoot has started from the main 
rod this may be left to bear fruit, and the nearest spur to it, especi¬ 
ally if it is large, may be cut away. 
Young canes generally have some small side growths which 
require cutting from them, and the top must be cut neatly. I do 
not think there are many young Vines cut in so far now as they 
were at one time. When a clean, strong, well-ripened cane has 
been secured it is not cut three parts down, but most of it is re¬ 
tained for fruiting, and this is found to be economical in every 
way.—A Kitchen Gardener. 
THE PROPAGATION OF HOLLIES. 
It is not easy to understand what becomes of the thousands of 
Hollies annually raised by seeds, cuttings, and grafting. They, 
however, find a market, or their propagation would not be so 
vigorously pursued as it is. The common Holly (Ilex Aquifolium) 
is raised from seed, and other kinds also that produce berries freely. 
After the berries are gathered they should be allowed to remain 
in a heap for twelve months until the pulp is decomposed, and 
then sow them in the early spring. This is a quick aud ready 
way of propagation, but much care is necessary before the young 
plants attain a saleable size. In some instances the losses are 
numerous from either drought on the one hand or the severity of 
winter on the other. In spite of these drawbacks large numbers 
are raised from seed. August or the early part of September 
in some large establishments is the time preferred for trans¬ 
planting seedlings to their permanent positions. Those who 
practise this contend there are less deaths, and that the young 
plants start with greater freedom and are much less liable to 
sufEer from drought than if transplanting were deferred until May. 
Nearly all good varieties are increased by cuttings as well as 
grafting, and some few by budding, but the latter I have not seen 
carried out extensively. Ilex Hodginsii is largely propagated, 
and in the majority of instances by means of cuttings. The 
young and well-ripened wood should be selected for cuttings. 
Ripe wood only should be chosen as far as practicable when it is 
not really necessary for the cuttings to be made with heels. This, 
however, is looked upon by some of great importance, and wood 
only is employed that can be furnished with heels. This is of 
real advantage in the case of any wood inclined to be soft, or in 
seasons when the wood has not well ripened. But when tho¬ 
roughly ripe the cuttings appear to root as well without as with 
a heel. In either case the cut at the bottom should be clean and 
the operation performed with a sharp knife. The leaves should 
be trimmed off up the stem about 2 inches, and that part must be 
inserted into the ground. The cuttings should be 3 to 4 inches 
long, and must be inserted as soon as made, and a large per¬ 
centage then root. 
Holly cuttings are generally inserted after all the Conifer cut¬ 
tings have been finished. Glazed handlights or boxes are prepared 
in the same way as those described for Conifers. Some use good- 
sized low frames for Hollies, but I consider the boxes are the best, 
as they fit close down upon the soil and can be kept closer than a 
frame. Success can be achieved either way. When the cuttings 
are inserted it is not always wise to give a good soaking of water 
as recommended for Conifers placed in several weeks earlier, as 
the material may be moist enough. The autumn is often far ad¬ 
vanced or winter approached by the time all these cuttings have 
been inserted. If water is supplied the soil might be in a.satu¬ 
rated state when severe weather sets in, and such a condition is 
neither desirable nor beneficial. The soil and cuttings often be¬ 
come thoroughly frozen during the winter ; no apparent injury 
results, but it is advisable, in case of very severe weather, to cover 
the boxes with some protective material. 
The spring and summer treatment is exactly the same as that 
described for Conifers, only the frames may be required to be 
kept over them for a little longer period of time. Some of the 
Silver and Golden kinds grow slowly at first, and may be late in 
making their growth, and in consequence require protection 
during the second winter. None is disturbed until the second 
year, when the green and stronger-growing kinds are planted out 
about 6 inches apart. The weak-growing kinds must remain 
until large and strong enough for planting. After the young 
plants are rooted they must not be allowed to become crowded 
before giving them more room. 
The common Holly is used as a stock for the delicate and choice 
kinds of Golden and Silver varieties ; in fact, many green kinds 
are also largely grafted. There can be no doubt that plants are 
